more brake problems

[dragon240sx]

Hi all, I'm having more brake pad problems. Within 4 months I have gone through 2 sets of rear brake pads...and not cheap ones either but some Raybestos (which i didn't expect to see fade away in a couple months like the cheap Auto Zone pads did), but anyway could my calipers be sticking? maybe my e-brake isn't disengaging all the way and keeping the pad pressed against the rotor...i really don't know. Do any of you have any ideas? The problem has also grooved my rear rotors...rubbing a finger across them you can feel where they've worn down. &nbsp;If i go with some slotted rotors all around what kind of pads should I use? Where shoud I get the new calipers? Thanks! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

could be a seized caliper. &nbsp;is the wear on the pad even? &nbsp;Logically, if both pads are wearing out, I would assume that its the ebrake. &nbsp;If its only one pad, then a caliper has seized up. &nbsp;I've never heard of 2 calipers seizing at the same time. &nbsp;Possible, but not likely. &nbsp;If you've been driving around for 4 months with a seized caliper, then that would explain the grooves. &nbsp;Basically, that would happen when your pad has completely worn away, and its just metal on metal (caliper on rotor).

[dragon240sx]

Any clue on how to adjust the e-brake? I'll have to look into that. Both of the pads have about the same amount of wear, while the 2 on the front look like they've not being used at all...no visible wear and no brake dust but the 2 rear ones are gone, lol.

[LanceS13]

Not to say that you're as absent-minded as I, but once I drove 40mi. w/ the ebrake on:o. &nbsp;That effectively disintegrated my rear brake pads and put a nice groove in my rotors. &nbsp;I felt stupid for days.:D

Yeah, I drove a block or so before I noticed that I was missing some power. And now I'm not embarassed to say it. Thanks, Lance!

[LanceS13]

lol...no problem. &nbsp;I think we all have brain farts every once in a while.:biggrin:

i had a grand am gt as a loaner car when my old car got t-boned, and just for fun i drove 10 miles with the ebrake up. &nbsp;Suprisingly, the car could still accelerate well, but boy did the brakes smell bad. &nbsp;Another copuple of miles and they would've caught on fire.

As for your problem, to adjust the ebrake, you would look at the top of the brake assembly, and undo the nut, and then loosen the cable. &nbsp;However, this likely is only part of your solution. &nbsp;You will either need new rotors, or to at least get the old ones machined. &nbsp;If I were you, I'd get a brake shop to adjust the ebrake. &nbsp;You want to make sure that you haven't loosened it too much, thereby ridding yourself of the ebrake. &nbsp;If you need new calipers and rotors, expect to pay $50 for each. &nbsp;As for new pads, don't remember which brand, but someone offers a lifetime warranty.

[HondakillaS14]

Not exactly sure where you'll find callipers for $50 each....maybe a junkyard, but if wanting new callipers and can afford it, I'd go with new ones. I just got two new rear callipers (I forgot the company) which were remanufactured factory ones w/ a lifetime warranty...cost me about $180 total. Do not go to Nissan, unless of course you want a good laugh when hearing how much they charge for a new OEM calliper. If you do have to get new rotors I'd reccomemd getting either slotted or cross-drilled w/ good quality pads like Axxis,which I run....if you shop right you'll find them cheaper than new OEM rotors.....just a heads up:)

[HippoSleek]

I'll chime in that it sounds like a parking brake problem too, but respectfully disagree with some of the other opinions. &nbsp;This would be my plan:
1) &nbsp;Loosen the nuts as stated and play with the adjustment by jacking up the car and seeing if the brakes drag when it is down.
2) &nbsp;See if your old rotors can be turned out. &nbsp;The shop will be able to tell you the overage and if this is possible. &nbsp;As for going through the second set of pads, I'm guessing you didn't get the rotors turned the first time (hence the grooving). &nbsp;Anytime you change pads, get them turned or replaced. &nbsp;If they can't be turned out, I recommend Brembo rotors w/o slots or drills. &nbsp;Drills often have cracking problems and slots are bad b/c they fill up with pad slag that hurts their ability to dissipate heat. &nbsp;The look good, but the performance of a good old plain jane vented rotor will be best.
3) &nbsp;While it sounds like you will need new pads, I wouldn't drop a fortune on fancy rear semi-metallics. &nbsp;Unless you have a proportioning valve, the 240 is pretty heavily biased toward the front. &nbsp;I have front pads that are a very small step from full race pads up front (CarboTech Panther Plus) and I have had no rear locking problems. &nbsp;Because the rear pads do so little work (even in track conditions), the extra expense is pretty much wasted.
good luck and happy stopping