View Full Version : SR20DET Overheating. MY LAST ISSUE
sr240noob
08-19-2009, 10:10 PM
Well i just finished up my SR redtop swap in my 95. I installed the redtop and it screams. only problem is it is over heating and i cant figure out why. It has a new water pump, all new coolant, i bled the system and i tested the thermostat and it seems to work fine... I am useing the stock KA radiator with crossover hose and an aftermarket 14" fan (
[email protected]). Ive been searching and trying just about everything im seeing. people keep sayingto bleed the coolant system but i have a few times. I was told to turn the heat on untill it blows hot but it ends up not blowing hot. i let it get to idle temps ,maybe a little hotter and it dont blow very hot. i am just gonna go tomorrow and buy a new thermostat and see if that helps. Any ideas?
fliprayzin240sx
08-20-2009, 07:57 AM
Did you swap out the water temp sensor on the SR with the one off your KA? Redtops came out of S13 engines, you need an S14 water temp sensor for your water guage to work.
robfx
08-20-2009, 01:24 PM
Not sure what cooling fan you're running but make sure if it's a low profile electric that is setup properly.
I've seen this before.
For instance if it is mounted on the engine side of the radiator it should be set as puller.
If mounted on the other side of the radiator it should be set as a pusher.
The fan has to be switched depending on how you use the fan.
sr240noob
08-20-2009, 08:11 PM
as for the Temp sensor i did not switch that out. Will that really make a dif? Also i bought a duel fan controller which is set to kick the fans on at 75c . and it is set to pull air as well. Maybe its not overheating, maybe i just need to switch out the s14 sensor if thats true? thanks guys
sr240noob
08-22-2009, 06:47 PM
Well i put the 2 prong collant temp sensor in and it didnt change much. Do i use the 1 prong gauge sensor from the s14 as well? thing is i was told to put the Heat on high and lift the front of the car. Than remove the capfrom the radiator while i let it idle to operating temps. the Heat NEVER gets hot. but the temp gauge rises pretty rapidly. Any suggestions?
fliprayzin240sx
08-22-2009, 07:37 PM
No, you need the 1 prong one. The 2 prong water temp sensor is what the ECU uses, 1 prong is what your stock gauge cluster is using. The reason your doing this is because the S13 water temp sensor sends a different voltage to the S14 cluster. You need the S14 sensor that sends the proper voltage to the S14 cluster.
But in all reality, stock water temp gauge is garbage. Invest on some after market water temp gauge, itll save you later down the road.
240sxxs
08-22-2009, 07:49 PM
if is not blowing hot then is the water temp s14...cause it doesnt read right..s14 sensor for sure
stealthsr20
08-22-2009, 08:40 PM
i would assume that if the air isn't blowing hot then possibly air in the system or if you didn't by the custom swap hoses check and see if your heater hoses are kinked
sr240noob
08-22-2009, 08:49 PM
so switch the 1 prong cluster sensor? Will do now. As for the heater hoses i used the stock s14 ones. one has what looks like a valve about half way down the hose. I wasnt sure if that was opening or not. Could this be an issue? Also should i put the coolent temp sensor(2 prong) back in and use the s13 one?
fliprayzin240sx
08-23-2009, 12:41 AM
ECU water temp is the same between chassis. Doesnt matter if you use S13 or S14.
sr240noob
08-23-2009, 08:47 AM
ok cool, so i put the temp gauge sensor in and it seems to actually work great. it used to heat up very very fast all the way to the H on the gauge. Now it takes a while just to get to idle temps like a normal car lol. Thank you guys so much.
vBulletin® v3.8.11, Copyright ©2000-2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.