New guy to this forum-need help with SR...210 in all cylinders on compression?!?

[CRyan]

Hello all- new member to this site but am known on I guess the rival site of this one...anyway I have got a bit of an issue---first I will give you the background info...

I have recently decided to do an S14 sr20det swap in my 97 240sx. Just to shorten this a bit I was hoping for a primarily stock sr to come to me...I am even running a side mount. My goal was to have a nice reliable sr swap making around 230-250 horsepower...anyway.

Engine came in and I did a little visual. Noticed it had a nismo flywheel and hks wastegate (non-adjustable)...apart from that the motor seemed to be stock-how I wanted it. Well I have been having some cranking issues (harness was sent to wiring specialties) and have yet to figure out the problem...

So BIG QUESTION!!! I ran a compression test on it tonight and noticed that all the cylinders were registering 210?!? What could this mean? I have been thinking the issue of it not cranking was related to fuel- there is only, if any, of just a faint FAINT smell on the plugs...

I adjust CAS timing tonight using the frsport write up...

I also did this compression test with throttle wide open.

All fuel injectors are getting signal...

I have spark...

What is going on with what I thought would be a simple cost efficient swap?!? Please help me!!!

Thanks
CRyan

[om3ga]

What about fuel? are you getting fuel? did you replace your fuel pump is it wired correctly? Check to make sure your fuel feed and return lines are correct (you can squeeze them to see which has pressure after priming a few times) Good luck!

[CRyan]

Yes I have fuel coming from pump and out the return...

But as of now my main concern is this outrageously high compression...

[chvybeatsford]

Did u have the trottle mashed when doing a check. I do belive you are supposed to have it at full trottle.

210 compresion could be

Head was shaved ?
Block was decked ?
Diffrent pistons installed?( I duno much bout sr piston but a dome pistion is a 350 etc would raise compression.

[CRyan]

God I don't want some modified engine. Way too much money there...

I read a little more last night and this morning and the only 3 things it could be is modified head/block, gauge was wrong, and something about oil on top of cylinder or something like that?

I am about to go visit my ex step dad to get a compression tester that i know is in working order...

[deuceforty]

how about you give some more info on your actual problem.

is the engine turning over

do you get any backfiring or smoke while its turning over

[chvybeatsford]

Is it the stock sr 370 inj in there(purple)

it must turn over cause he did a compression test. It could be fuel pressure? I know u said it has a Lil fuel on the plugs but if it dosent crank I would think after a long atemp to crank the plugs would have a notiable fuel smell

[CRyan]

What more info do you need? I gave japan motor import a call and he said there was no way that could have sent me an engine reading that kind of compression. So I am going to get my snap on compression tester because I know it is dead on.

So you believe fuel pressure chevy? I took the return line off and turned the key to on postion, and it seemed to flow gas, but nothing like the supply side- it seemed to be a lot less... I guess I can see what fpr is doing- anyone know a part number or another vehicles fpr I could use? Thanks guys!

[chvybeatsford]

my car jus had a bad fuel pump witch cause my car to bog as if I let go of the gas. Not enough fuel so car would almost die.

More info he means is .... When u turn key the motor turns over but dosent fire? Does it atleast try to start? Like a lil hicup or jus turns without any hint of firing. If it does try to start and hicups ur timming may be off? Did u try setting timming?


Also when u did compression how many times did u turn the engine over before reading gauge? Usually I allow 4 -6 full cycles. N e more may cause higher compression. Also I think on a hot motor (running temp) compression should be 150-165. Can't really rem. A cold engine may have a higher number also.

Also check ur grounds. Ignighter , make sure all coil packs are on tight with no tears. U did put a walpro 255 pump in?


By all means I'm no expert but I dis have problems with my swap and had others have me check what I'm telling u .

[CRyan]

Ok well no the car does not even hicup (as I do the sound out loud to describe it) basically it is just turning over with no combustion in any chamber. Fuel injectors are getting power- coil packs are getting power...and I set CAS last night but I haven't tried cranking it since I set timing... So I can try it today...but doubtful it is timing...because eventually it should burp something out. I did notice more gas smell when we were doing compression test though...

And no I don't have a walbro- well I do have one just sitting in the shop but it is linear...and dis not think I could use it...also have some supra injectors sitting around but I don't think they will work with the car either...

I was hoping this would be a primarily stock, cost efficent swap ya know?

[chvybeatsford]

Let's see what some one else will have to say. The guys on here are great and help alot.

[CRyan]

Yeah I sure hope so- just found out I am leaving out of town tomorrow- so one more day/night to get my car running...

[KrazyS13]

Have you checked your Ecu to see if its throwing any codes? Also, check and make sure ALL of your grounds are good and tight.

[VOoDOoGTX]

if you wanna find out if there is liquid in the cylinders, pull the plugs and turn the car over.

[CRyan]

No fluids coming out the top of the motor then- or did not notice when we were turning engine over...I figured some fuel might mist out but none...

There is ONE ground wire I don't have connected that comes from lower harness or might just go to the intake mani... And it isn't grounded because it is a little to short to reach terminal on battery... But it didn't seem to make much difference... And if a ground were the case I should being getting voltage from the injectors, correct?

Are there any other grounds that might be hidden I am not aware of?

[VOoDOoGTX]

ground the wire, just because it should be grounded anyway. i havent looked through everything you said but i will and get back too you.

[VOoDOoGTX]

pull the fuel rail and point it away from the engine and turn the car over. all the injectors should mist a perfect mist. no dribbling.

get back too me.

[VOoDOoGTX]

my gues is that the LWFW is not allowing the sensor too read TDC so it will spark intermittently and wont fire fuel at the right time.

[CRyan]

What is the lwfw?

[KrazyS13]

lightweight flywheel

[CRyan]

Oh... I feel more informed already...but I thought there were plenty of cars that ran a lightweight flywheel that didn't have problems...

[CRyan]

Alright where is the sensor that is sensing the flywheel? User where it is on the ka trans, but not SR

[fliprayzin240sx]

No there is no crank angle sensor on the SR like on S14 KAs. Did you put the fuel lines the right way? Meaning, fuel filter line into the rail and return line from the FPR? Did you check for spark? Ground out the spark plugs and watch for spark. I've had a car that I was troubleshooting that was getting spark but it was weak. Swapped out the igniter chip and fixed the problem.

As far as the high compression, thats pretty high, could be high compression pistons. Can you see down the spark plug port to see if the pistons domed or flat? SR stock pistons will have a slight bowl to it. Do you notice a headgasket too? Usually most engine builders in Japan love to use liquid gasket between the oil pump cover and the head. If theres gasket there, its a tell tale that its been cracked open.

[CRyan]

Well I have spark...and fuel is the right way just ad you stated. But there is no fuel in the cylinders...I only smell it VERY faintly.

[VOoDOoGTX]

check too make sure the injectors are all firing.

[CRyan]

God it looks like a headache to remove the fuel rail...any pointers there?

[VOoDOoGTX]

nope haha, i dont have a SR20. on my 944 turbo its 4 bolts and it pulls right off.

[CRyan]

Anyone have a clue what sensor is fixated near the flywheel? I can find it on my KA trans but not the SR...if it doesn't have it than how could the lightweight flywheel make problems? Also, could my starter be acting funny because of this flywheel? Once about every 3-4 times I turn it over it sounds like the starter only engages, but will not actually turn the flywheel...if I turn the key repatedly about 7-8 times from acc to start position quickly, it will suddenly turn the motor over....any ideas there...I took the starter to a rebuild shop, and I was told to use sohc internals...so I am sure he got it back together correctly...

[fliprayzin240sx]

No there isnt any flywheel sensor on any SRs. You only have speedo, neutral and reverse switch on the lower harness.

[CRyan]

And none of those could be a reason the car isn't cranking, eh?

[deuceforty]

did you ground everything?? any ground coming off the main harness is VERY important..

[VNG704]

low battery?

a little fyi, higher than normal compression can also be caused by excessive carbon build up in cylinder/on pistons. Seafoam can fix this unless it's really bad then you'd have to take the head off and manually take off the carbon buildup.

[VOoDOoGTX]

the car wont even crank.... well that news too me. whats it do when you turn the key?

[CRyan]

Yeah man it only is able to turn over by the starter....I went through the harness and checked all grounds. And they all are now...still no attempt of combustion...

[KrazyS13]

Look to see if the ECU is throwing codes! It might give you somewhere to start troubleshooting.

[CRyan]

The check engine light isn't flashing at all... Just comes on with no flashing...

[KrazyS13]

I'm not talking about the check engine light on the gauge cluster, I'm talking about pulling codes from the ECU by putting it in diagnostic mode and using the LED thats located ON the ECU..... This was pulled straight from the SR20DET FAQ......

- this is general for 89-98 Nissanhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2.gif (http://zilvia.net/f/#) but most apply to the SR20 motor.
- to set car into diag. mode, with the key in the "ON" position, turn potentometer screw on ECU fully clockwise, then turn it fully counterclockwise. The LED on the ECU will begin to flash.
- first digit = LONG blink; second digit = SHORT blink (ex: 1... 1... 1... 1... then 1-1-1 equals 43 = TPS)

Error Codes Biatch
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.

[CRyan]

that is incredibly useful! Thanks a lot for that! Unfortunately I had to leave for the coast for work this morning- but as soon as I get home I will go run the diagnostics...how does it distinguish itself between each two numbers if tere is more than one code?

[l33tmonkeyman]

If there is nore than one code it should do the long flashes then short flashes for the one code. after its done it should go back to long flashes and so forth. if that second number is different there is more than one code. It just loops the fault codes and once it gets back to the first one then you know that is all the codes the ecu has.

[CRyan]

YES were getting somewhere now guys! I ran a diagnostics and the coolant temperature sensor was the code pulled! This won't allow the car to crank correct?!? I am getting pretty excited it is just annoying to get to the plug to test it! Damn return fuel line!

[singlecamslam]

Usually if the coolant temp sensor is bad the car would run like crap, but i would change that too since its important.

[CRyan]

Alright well the one wire plug was completely yanked off...plugged it back up and now it's reading a code 55. Which is no malfunction. I am headed to get another coolant temp sensor plug just in case it itself has gone bad. But I guess it would still tell me at the ecu, right?

Anyone know what temp sensor I can use from advance auto (part number)?

[CRyan]

aLright well new informative news!!! Fuel injectors have NO fuel coming out of them. I just removed the top of the intake and pulled her. Would it be wise to just run a couple wires from a battery to the injector to see if it is pulsating?

I guess I will take it by an injection place tomorrow? Any info on why they might not be moving would be great. Btw NO smell on the ends of the injectors.

[singlecamslam]

This may be stupid, but same exactly thing happened to me and car wouldnt start, turns out that i had the fuel lines on backwards.

[CRyan]

Ok so. Here is the new news.

Basically, fuel injectors are able to move (ran wire from 12 v battery and watched them go in) BUT the drivers are not pulsating. I am going to assume that it is ground not getting somewhere seeing as this fuel injection is sequiential, therefor allowing each injector to squire independently. And I do not believe that all the drivers went out at once.

So does anyone know what wire I should be inspecting. I feel so good that I am starting to accomplish something, all with the help of you guys!

So as stated, we have zoned the problem almost presicely.

If anyone would like to chime in on this subject, as opposing my theory of believing there isn't a ground for the drivers to essentially "drive", please chime in quickly!

Thanks everyone,
CRyan