Wait.. There's something else wrong with my ****ing car?!

[Solidus311]

My car (s13, series 2 rb) will not start. I was driving regularly from a stop light and once I shifted into 2nd the car lost all power, I would give it gas and it would not rev or do shit. I can't remember if it simply cut out, or if I turned it off before coasting off to the shoulder. After stopping I tried to start the car and it would not do anything but turn over. A random person stopped by and said that he thought it was the timing chain (belt).

Once I got it towed home I had a buddy come over to try and help me diagnose the problem. This is what we checked:

-All fuses were good.
-Battery was good
-Alternator was good
-Gas was in the car
-Sparkplugs would spark
-Also swapped ECU's

The only thing that didn't work were the injectors. They weren't pulsing when they were supposed to. But we couldn't figure out why. Also, when unplugging the CAS the injectors would pulse once. It sounded like a relay clicking. Some really weird thing happened when we sprayed starter fluid into the intake plenum and tried to crank it. After cranking it and keeping the key in the "on" position, all of the injectors would pulse together every couple of seconds. Click...click....click until you removed the key.

Out of about 20 tries the car did start maybe 2 times, but only ran for a few seconds before sputtering out.

There were no warning signs for whatever this is. I was not dogging the hell out of the car or anything. Just cruising down the road.

[teamsprock]

All the injectors should be firing when you try and start the car at the same time, it helps the engine start quicker. If it only fired on one cylinder at a time it will take a few seconds to fire up.

Have you checked the ignition switch? I would pull that out first and test continuity on all the contact points. My ignition switch went bad a while back and was a pain to get to start and and didn't charge properly because of the bad switch. Also make sure the start signal is getting to the starter and ECU, the ECU uses this to tell all 4 injectors to fire at once. Also does the car start if you hold the pedal to the floor? Doing this should kill the fuel, so that maybe a sign the car is flooded. Use a noid light on the injectors and see if they are firing or stuck open from an open ground.

[DataXUnknown]

Maybe check for any vacuum hoses that may have come off?

[Solidus311]

All the injectors should be firing when you try and start the car at the same time, it helps the engine start quicker. If it only fired on one cylinder at a time it will take a few seconds to fire up.

Have you checked the ignition switch? I would pull that out first and test continuity on all the contact points. My ignition switch went bad a while back and was a pain to get to start and and didn't charge properly because of the bad switch. Also make sure the start signal is getting to the starter and ECU, the ECU uses this to tell all 4 injectors to fire at once. Also does the car start if you hold the pedal to the floor? Doing this should kill the fuel, so that maybe a sign the car is flooded. Use a noid light on the injectors and see if they are firing or stuck open from an open ground.

Rb's have six cylinders. :cool: By ignition switch you mean all the stuff under the steering column or the ignitor switches that are on sr's and not rbs? Thank you for the advice, I'll try those things. You may be right because I wired my power source for my gauges to the ignition switch like a year ago. It actually caused one headlight to stay on all the time because an exposed wire (constant power) was too close to the light switch. I covered that up, and solved that problem.

I'm thinking right now that the mechanics in the CAS went out. Because it still is getting power.

As for the vacuum, I checked the intercooler piping and everything else looked right. The car would still run though, right? It would just run like shit.

[teamsprock]

Good call ha ha but you knew what I meant. But yes I meant the actual ignition switch in the steering column. When mine went bad it caused other problems that didn't make sense because of the low voltage going through the switch and to the accessories.

Also as if thats not the problem check the continuity from the battery to the starter and make sure you don't have any big voltage drop or the main power grounded out. I know you said you checked all the fuses but did you test the 75 Amp fuseable link?

[Solidus311]

Good call ha ha but you knew what I meant. But yes I meant the actual ignition switch in the steering column. When mine went bad it caused other problems that didn't make sense because of the low voltage going through the switch and to the accessories.

Also as if thats not the problem check the continuity from the battery to the starter and make sure you don't have any big voltage drop or the main power grounded out. I know you said you checked all the fuses but did you test the 75 Amp fuseable link?

As for weird problems, my windshield wipers stay on even when I turn them off. ha. And no, didn't check that link. where is the 75 amp thing at? Going to try the another cas tonight hopefully. Then I'll tear my steering column up.

[VQMaxFan]

try messing with the buzzing and clicking relay its probably the eccs relay

[Solidus311]

try messing with the buzzing and clicking relay its probably the eccs relay

We found out the noise of the clicking was the injectors pulsing. It was coming from the motor, and me and my buddy know there are no relays on the motor itself. My engine fusebox has been relocated to where the wiper fluid reservoir was.

As for the ignition, I tested the black and red wire on the ecu while cranking and got nothing. Either I did something wrong or this is the problem.

[Solidus311]

Update: Tried another crank angle sensor. Replaced ECCS relay. Found out the ECU is not getting power...Just don't know why. :(

[Solidus311]

My car works again! Not that anyone cares, save for myself and the friends who have been driving me around for the past 3 weeks.

So I removed the cas with the key "on" and spun it. I heard the clicking of the injectors. That was good. Then I removed the hose from the fuel filter to see if my fuel pump seized or something. I go to turn the key again and now my damn pump doesn't even hum on the "acc". So I checked the fuel pump fuse and wouldn't you know if was blown. But I didn't figure this out until I spent 5 minutes yanking it out of my box. Not only did it blow but it burned and melted itself to the fuse box. So I replaced that. Tried the pump again and fuel shot to the hood. I put the line back on and it fired right up.

What in the hell was wrong? I know the fuse was still work when I first started messing with it weeks ago. I can remember hearing the humming. What underlining problem would cause a short or whatever?

[fast-datsun]

do you have the pump wired through the relay and computer??????