IACV Coolant L fitting Leaking - SR20 Guru's needed!

[tacoboy]

Hey guys, When I installed my aftermarket intake manifold on my sr20, the IACV was positioned as such the stock coolant lines going to and from it no lnger matched up with the new location of the IACV on the bottom of the "greddy style" intake manifold. So, Me, thinking this would work, simply used a set of channel locks to swivel the L fitting (see picture below) 180 degrees in order for it to match up. All was well, until halfway to the gas station n its maiden voyage, the L fitting popped out (pressurized coolant system I take it) and I lost all my coolant. Oops.

Now - where can I find another one of these fittings that has yet to be pressed in? I've tried to JB waterweld it in there but the waterweld doesnt like the heat. I'd more or less like a proper solution as JB weld is a huge bandaid fix. Am I better off buying a used IACV, extending the coolant lines and running that? Or is there a part number for the OEM coolant L fitting (as pictured).

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n260/daveowen/240sx%20S14/IACV1.jpg

Thanks for your time,

Dave

[jedi03]

i think you can go to machine shop to fix or buy a new one...has anyone thought of a block off plate instead of actually running the iacv? i did this on a b16(honda btw) an it ran great little bit longer warming up but no other issues...but any ideas of this on an sr since i will be doing freddy mani as well soon...?

[JVD]

i think you can go to machine shop to fix or buy a new one...has anyone thought of a block off plate instead of actually running the iacv? i did this on a b16(honda btw) an it ran great little bit longer warming up but no other issues...but any ideas of this on an sr since i will be doing freddy mani as well soon...?
People have blocked them off before.

Just need to crack the throttle body a bit I believe.

Idle will be up around 1000rpm.

[steve shadows]

I would just have it repaired.

If it's leaking from the body it needs to be "brazed" which is a type of special welding for Aluminum or brass.

Go to a good chassis shop and they will be able to help ;)

[aNskY]

why does the iacv need coolant?

just block or loop the lines?

[didderson]

why does the iacv need coolant?

just block or loop the lines?
edit
I should have done my research before 'spouting out confidently' my ideas on this.
I run my car without the coolant lines and during summer it's fine but during winter idle is always around 12-1400 rpm. Not really ideal. I'm getting a used iacv with cooling line thingers and hooking them up lol.

[Tearlessj]

Really? So i can just loop the fittings on the heads? Then I can just leave the IACV fittings open?

[s14unimog]

Bingo. It only needs it for the same reason the TB has its dumb cooling lines, to heat up the engine faster for cold days, effectively decreasing horsepower on hot days...

Destroy them and cap off the other input cooling nipple lines as I did, no problems, icy cold manifold :cool:

^
no, that's not even remotely right....

The coolant lines for the IACV are used to adjust the amount of air needed based on coolant temperature. If you remove those lines then you will have idle issues.

The TB on the other hand is a cold climate percaution.

Don't answer questions if you don't actually know the answer. Look how confidently you just spouted out the WRONG answer.:nono:


Tacoboy.... I'm pretty sure those are brazed into the IACV, like Shadows said. Unless you do the same, I'm sure your going to keep having this coolant leak. I have the greddy intake manifold on my car and just extended the lines to suit. Notice....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/Christmaswiththefamily057.jpg

[aNskY]

^
no, that's not even remotely right....

The coolant lines for the IACV are used to adjust the amount of air needed based on coolant temperature. If you remove those lines then you will have idle issues.

The TB on the other hand is a cold climate percaution.

Don't answer questions if you don't actually know the answer. Look how confidently you just spouted out the WRONG answer.:nono:




i am running those lines looped and was able to smooth out my idle pretty nicely, although you will probably have issues on a stock ecu ;)

[s14unimog]

^ that does change things a bit....

[Tearlessj]

Well damn that sucks. I just put my intake manifold back on without the lines connected. Sigh.

Im ganna try to run it without first just to see the difference.

[s14unimog]

Why is it people just eliminate things on their motors without a clear understanding of how they work or why they're there? Everyone should remember Nissan spent a ridiculous amount of time/money developing the SR20.... The heat absorption you are concerned about is extremely minimal when compared to the heat absorbed from the head.....

Its saddens me to think about all of the butchered SR's out there...

[aNskY]

Why is it people just eliminate things on their motors without a clear understanding of how they work or why they're there? Everyone should remember Nissan spent a ridiculous amount of time/money developing the SR20.... The heat absorption you are concerned about is extremely minimal when compared to the heat absorbed from the head.....

Its saddens me to think about all of the butchered SR's out there...

the air going through it is cooler than the coolant... so please explain how making it hotter is going to cool the head?

[s14unimog]

WTF are you talking about. I never said it would, and on top of that, the air is only used during closed throttle idle, so who cares how cold it is. What I was pointing out, is that its minuscule in comparison to the heat absorbed FROM the head. You twisted that all around....