Caster and Adjustable TC Rods

[240fluke]

I have been digging through the archives looking for some answers, but didn't really come across what I was hoping for. With the adjustable TC rods, what kind of caster should I run on my car? Should I max it out or leave it in the middle of the range? It seems from what I have read that the most caster you can get is the best setup you can run. Basically it helps on cornering is what I was getting from this? Is this correct? Is there any other reasons to run high caster?

Also, how should I set up the cross caster? Should I set it so that both caster angles are the same so there is a 0 cross caster or should I set it up with a negative cross caster (to make up for the crown of the road)?

Finally, for Adjustable Rods, I am going to be buying the Battle Version rods. Is there any reason to go with one of the other companies adjustable rods over the Battle Version ones? (East Bear, JIC, Cusco, Tein, etc.)? Are any of these other ones higher quality units? Are they justifiable of the higher price tags? Is there any real difference in these to make them better to have than the Battle Versions?

Tim '95 SE

[AKADriver]

I've heard Battle Version are some of the best, actually.

They're cheaper because they're made in the USA!

[adey]

as far as I know, there is no essential difference between any TC rods that you can easily buy. The weakest link, the actual pillowball, is usually (as I've heard) the same size/of similar quality on all T/C rods, regardless of maker.
A thicker bar won't help if it's the pillow ball (or rather, where the pillow ball is connected to the rest of the bar/rod) is the weak point...

That said, I've been convinced (by DriftingPanda) that there is little to no benefit in buying Cusco rods (for $300/pair) over Projectsilvia ($180/pair) rods. That's just one take on it, there are others who will say that cusco/jic-magic are better than tein/battleversion/generic... and i'm sure they make good, valid points... I just don't know what they are.

[Steeles]

Originally posted by AKADriver
I've heard Battle Version are some of the best, actually.

They're cheaper because they're made in the USA!

the advantage of going with other companies is that they are designed for the S14. the Battle version are designed for S13s. to use tm on the S14 you give up some of your adjustability. same with using any of the other companies S13 TC rods.

[AKADriver]

Ah... didn't notice he was buying for an S14. Then by all means, buy a set that's the right length!

[Steeles]

Originally posted by AKADriver
Ah... didn't notice he was buying for an S14. Then by all means, buy a set that's the right length!

yeah i had looked at them before I got my monkey magic set and asked some of the Atlant list members about the same thing. i ended up with a set of Monkey Magics. call IPN industries, the MM ones are pretty cheap and the correct ones. i got them and an option video shipped for 300 bux.

[S14lover]

does anyone know why there website IPN motorsports that is will not work also Steeles how much for the MM and do they have Rear upper control arms?

[Steeles]

Originally posted by S14lover
does anyone know why there website IPN motorsports that is will not work also Steeles how much for the MM and do they have Rear upper control arms?

crap their site works like the first week of every other month. lol has been that way since I got mine. i dont remember exactly the price 250 I think like I said them a 24 dollar ooption vid tax and shipping came out to right around 300. ipn didnt list anything else suspenion wise from them when i ordered. but in the group buy section here on zilvia we got someone working on a group buy of Kazamma stuff. hopefully that will go through and we can get all their stuff. :)

[240fluke]

Wow, thanks a lot guys, you have been totally helpful on this. I didn't realize that the Battle Version rods were designed for the S13 and just made to fit the S14. Hmm, that kind of sucks, b/c I hear they are really good products. Monkey Magic ones might end up being the ones I go with then, that or East Bear.

Anyways, can anybody answer the stuff about caster? How much should I run? How should it be setup? 0 cross or some negative cross?

Tim '95 SE

[Dousan_PG]

you daily drive or track alot? if you daily drive primarily, leave the caster alone unless you like to buy tires often. same goes for any sort of toe/caster setups beyond stock recommendations.

[240fluke]

Sorry, should of posted that. This car is a daily driven car currently. Later on it will be seeing more track time (if not fully become a track car). So probably staying towards the center of the range or maybe on the high end of the range would be what you would suggest then?

Tim '95 SE

[Dousan_PG]

ah i forget what mine are at. but with drifting, atfull counter i get some SERIOUS rubbing/crunching when the tire hits the chassis. so i had it shortened, i forget how much but no more rubbign at full counter and that's a lot better. wasnt much. i had them change my toe (i forget, 1/8 in or out..but it was 1/8 one way) so faster turn ins.

rear was left stock

sorry for i forgot my exact specs. it was sometime back. i daily drive mine but i go thru a pair of FM901s each month, tire wear isnt too much of a concern haha..

[adey]

If you're doing mostly daily driving, I'd actually recommend you stay away from the pillow ball type, due to the harshness that you'll feel in the steering. I'd say go for a set of stock TC rods with Whiteline bushings pressed in... these are available from PDM-racing.com, and currently there is a pair for sale on ebay. Try the FS/WTB sections here, too... they're a good compromise.