pwhitersxs
03-15-2009, 03:50 PM
Background (10/08):
Ok, so I was driving and power cut. I noticed that the dash was completely off, the aftermarket gauges which were tapped into the cig. light source and my radio and boost controller have no power. Fuel pump does not prime. Oh, and the greddy egt gauge got pegged passed 12! The only working circuits are the headlights and the hazards.
I checked the fuses under the steering wheel area and all but the cig. light were fine. Even the cig. light fuse did not blow, but it sure did melt. I tested the fusible links by the battery for continuity and they all check out.
Background (11/08):
Well, before I forget, time to document my problems.
No power to igntion switch
power to all the lights
lights work in gauges as well
main power supply which is three in has power, pin 46?--> for ecu
back up power which is two in does not have power, pin 47? -->for ecu
wire to fan has wire exposed, possible reason for open circuit.
check engine light on in gauge cluster
Ok, fast forward to now:
-- I have power to the ignition switch.
-- Power to the lights.
-- Hazards and turn signals work.
-- HVAC works.
Current issues:
-- The white timer assembly in the driver side kick panel near the fuse box seems to be causing issues. when this is connected the audio fuse is back feeding 6 volts.
-- So with the fuse out and the white timer circuit connected, the left side of the audio fuse has 6 volts when it should be 0 volts. Now if I disconnect the white timer circuit, the left side of the audio fuse goes to 0 volts with no fuse and 12 volts with the fuse. the r/y wire at the white timer circuit has 5 volts with the timer connected.
-- The ground by the audio connections is bad.
-- The gauge cluster does not work. The clock does not come on. The check engine and fuel light come on. The fuel gauge goes way past full. The y/g wire on the gauge cluster has 4.5 volts and I don't know if that's normal. Now if I have the plug connected (the one behind the fuel gauge), then the EGI relay will buzz when I turn the car off. If I disconnect that plug, the buzzing goes away.
-- Boost controller and radio work with white timer disconnected and the audio ground connected to a body ground. They don't work with the timer assembly connected and no ground.
The car starts and runs btw. The main issues are the 6 volts I am getting and the gauge cluster not working.
Any ideas, help, or advice is appreciated.
Ok, so I was driving and power cut. I noticed that the dash was completely off, the aftermarket gauges which were tapped into the cig. light source and my radio and boost controller have no power. Fuel pump does not prime. Oh, and the greddy egt gauge got pegged passed 12! The only working circuits are the headlights and the hazards.
I checked the fuses under the steering wheel area and all but the cig. light were fine. Even the cig. light fuse did not blow, but it sure did melt. I tested the fusible links by the battery for continuity and they all check out.
Background (11/08):
Well, before I forget, time to document my problems.
No power to igntion switch
power to all the lights
lights work in gauges as well
main power supply which is three in has power, pin 46?--> for ecu
back up power which is two in does not have power, pin 47? -->for ecu
wire to fan has wire exposed, possible reason for open circuit.
check engine light on in gauge cluster
Ok, fast forward to now:
-- I have power to the ignition switch.
-- Power to the lights.
-- Hazards and turn signals work.
-- HVAC works.
Current issues:
-- The white timer assembly in the driver side kick panel near the fuse box seems to be causing issues. when this is connected the audio fuse is back feeding 6 volts.
-- So with the fuse out and the white timer circuit connected, the left side of the audio fuse has 6 volts when it should be 0 volts. Now if I disconnect the white timer circuit, the left side of the audio fuse goes to 0 volts with no fuse and 12 volts with the fuse. the r/y wire at the white timer circuit has 5 volts with the timer connected.
-- The ground by the audio connections is bad.
-- The gauge cluster does not work. The clock does not come on. The check engine and fuel light come on. The fuel gauge goes way past full. The y/g wire on the gauge cluster has 4.5 volts and I don't know if that's normal. Now if I have the plug connected (the one behind the fuel gauge), then the EGI relay will buzz when I turn the car off. If I disconnect that plug, the buzzing goes away.
-- Boost controller and radio work with white timer disconnected and the audio ground connected to a body ground. They don't work with the timer assembly connected and no ground.
The car starts and runs btw. The main issues are the 6 volts I am getting and the gauge cluster not working.
Any ideas, help, or advice is appreciated.