i need somone who knows SR's up and down

[Blackzenki82]

installed motor, got everything hooked up, blah blah.... car starts woot woot.... now i go and drive it, and it's sluggish after 4k, where as we all know, that's when the SR's get happy... it's like it bogs, it just doesn't put out the power... compression is 160 across the board too...... i thought it might be something to do with the SAFC so i pulled the MAF wires from the harness and reconnected the harness (those in the know, know that the SAFC runs off the MAF singnal wire).. luckily enough, whoever installed it used spade connectors, so setting it back to original one wire to the ECU was easy....

now, it ran better with it like that, which means that the SAFC was messing stuff up, and it did run, and good... for a bit, maybe till the ECU corrected itself. now the idle is rough at 750, and smooth at 1000k where it likes to stay for some reason.

things i have done already to remedy the problem..

1. disconnected TPS and set time (used a timing light on Cyl#1 coil pack wire, i know supposed to use a spark plug wire but i don't have any)
2. put a volt meter on TPS and reset to .45V
3. changed plugs
4. fiddled with idle screw
5. after setting TPS, disconnected and checked time again, but light kept flickering...
6. Checked MAF by unplugging it while running, car sputtered and died within 3 seconds, reconnected and started up..

i haven't had a chance to drive it since i had all this checked and done, but i know the idle is for shit, like it's missing almost... more like a studder, or a half a miss... and every time i let off the gas after revving it pops.. maybe running rich?

also, it takes about 4 seconds for the car to catch and start... anyone know whats up with that??? maybe it has something to do with everything else...

and another problem, my cheap ass reused the spark plug O-rings for valve cover and filled EVERY one of the plug holes up with oil...the o-ring rubber hardened and doesn't hold a seal i guess.. but i soaked it up with a rag before pulling the old plugs out and putting the new ones in... i'll fix that tomorrow...

any insight guys?????? HALPPSSSS!!!!!

[HPballer76]

what fuel pump do you have? my car was doing the same thing and it turned out my fuel pump was going bad. also have you checked for boost leaks?

[Blackzenki82]

walboro 255...

HG is as -19/-20

boost peaks at 10lbs, exactly what WG is preloaded for....

[MrFairlady]

Try to find another ECU.Seems to always be the Culprit in these cars.

Mine had a similar issue (before I Removed it) in 4th & 5th gear it would rev past 4k.I'm gonna try my other ECU when I get it running again.

[Sileighty_85]

Sounds like a boost / Vac Leak

Check ECU for codes also

[Monooxide]

EDIT: Nevermind you've already checked the timing.

[s14unimog]

walboro 255...

HG is as -19/-20

boost peaks at 10lbs, exactly what WG is preloaded for....

vacuum is a little low and if you're talking s13 SR, then the actuator should be 7psi. Are you using a vacuum source on there? B/C you shouldn't

[Blackzenki82]

the waste gate is preloaded for 10lbs, and i'm running a vacuum source from the nipple on my IC piping... i got all my vac lines in order... and found a leak it on that runs to my EBC into the car, fixed it, and ran a bit better... i already read/heard that S13 SRs should be right at 19-hg at all times....

checked the ECU for codes and came back with No 13.... coolant temp sensor...

[s14unimog]

the waste gate is preloaded for 10lbs, and i'm running a vacuum source from the nipple on my IC piping... i got all my vac lines in order... and found a leak it on that runs to my EBC into the car, fixed it, and ran a bit better... i already read/heard that S13 SRs should be right at 19-hg at all times....

checked the ECU for codes and came back with No 13.... coolant temp sensor...

You know what, you are right, I was thinking on decel... Oops. As for the actuator, that would be considered a boost only source which is correct anyways. Is this an aftermarket actuator, why is the spring pressure 10psi?

That's the two wire one, I would definitely replace that

[95KA-Turbo]

Just for reference. When you don't have the modified spark plug wire thing to check your timing you can use the small black wire that loops out of the coil pack harness - it's there for checking timing. You might get a better reading that way.


The coolant temp sensor can definitely make the car nearly undriveable. Hopefully that's your problem. Otherwise check out the actual plugs and wires going into those plugs for your MAF and other important sensors (TPS, IACV, CTS, etc). My car wouldn't even run and it was because the plug and wires for the MAF were bad.

[Blackzenki82]

Just for reference. When you don't have the modified spark plug wire thing to check your timing you can use the small black wire that loops out of the coil pack harness - it's there for checking timing. You might get a better reading that way.


that the small black wire that attaches to the back center bolt of the valve cover? i thought that was a ground...

[Sileighty_85]

that the small black wire that attaches to the back center bolt of the valve cover? i thought that was a ground...

there is one black wire thats a loop for timing, and the other back wire with the gold O-connector bolts to the Fire wall behind the brake lines

[Blackzenki82]

huh... that gold loop was bolted on the center nut on the back of the valve cover.... could that be causing some of my problems???

i'll look for the black loop on one of my two spare coil pack harnesses...

[SoSideways]

huh... that gold loop was bolted on the center nut on the back of the valve cover.... could that be causing some of my problems???

i'll look for the black loop on one of my two spare coil pack harnesses...

That should be bolted to the head for a source of ground.

[smelly240]

The vac is fine... Sr vacuum at idle should be 18-22

[SoSideways]

The vac is fine... Sr vacuum at idle should be 18-22

Suck it, mine's at 17.

Nothing I can do can change it, other than if it's really hot one day, it'll go down to like 18 or so inHg.

If I let off while in gear, I hit like 20 inHg, unless it's really hot out, I may hit 21 inHg.

[s14unimog]

^ you sir have a leak somewhere, or cams, or maybe a problem with your valves sealing. I suspect a top end seal issue, since your decel is low too.

In regards to the little black wire, there are two. The one grounds the head to the throttle cable bracket with the spade connector on it. And the other is a loop that the factory left exposed on the coilpack harness for checking timing. I've personally checked timing with the #1 cyl. harness and never had a problem. I double checked with the loop to be sure. I'm lazy so, since they read the same, I didn't want to dig out the loop every time I wanted to check timing.

[SoSideways]

I don't doubt it. Car's always felt slow, and I'm sure that has something to do with it.

Funny thing is, I've been asking everyone why that shit is low since like, 2003 or something ridiculous (when I noticed it was low compared to others') and nobody has given me a straight up answer until you did.

Oh well, head's completely stock. When I have it built for cams and stuff I'll probably have new valve seals put in, along with new springs.

[s14unimog]

good idea. I think there is a way to test their seal-ability in the FSM but I'm not sure off hand.

[Blackzenki82]

awesome diagram, i'm going to look into a new FPR if that could cause a slight random stutter at idle..

so i replaced the CTS off the new motor with the one off the old motor, what was weird was they had different connectors... one on the new motor was a squarish one with the little metal ring holding it on, and it was red... the one i used off the old motor was blue and had a square oval shaped snap on connector... an ideas???

so, initial results are pretty damn good... no more code 13 on the ECU.. car idles alot smoother, but i'm still have a bit of RANDOM sputter at idle... not much, but enough to make my forearm wobble every once in a while....

would you guys think the walboro might have me running rich at idle, and cause a slight random stutter? i might check the FPR, or just replace it and see of that solves it...

she now pulls great, after 4k she just lurches and hauls ass... love that T28... but it's still a little sketchy till 4k... probably something to do with timing as it's reading weird now, or maybe running rich... who knows at this point...

i think the next step is checking the O-rings on my injectors, and replacing for good measure...

what ground goes to the throttle cable bracket? you mean the bracket that mounts to the firewall? or the bracket on the upper plunum by the TB?

[s14unimog]

the bracket that mounts to the firewall or, like I said, the one that has the spade connector on it...

[Blackzenki82]

thanks mang, i'll check that tomorrow!!! maybe might help with some grounding issues...