S14 SR20DET Engine Identification.....

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Hi,
I have looked and can't really find a concise answer on how to tell what year and specific car (JDM Silvia or US 240SX) this engine came from.
I just got a 73 Datsun 510 with this engine in it and I want to identify it so I can get to know it.
How do I tell if it came from a JDM Silvia or the 240SX?
Is there a specific place on the block to get the engine codes?
Thanks in advance...

[dirtyafrican]

post a picture or google ka24e, ka24de, sr20de, sr20det and see which one it looks more similar to

240sx = ka24e/de
silvia = sr20de/det

[Sileighty_85]

Uhhh the U.S. S13 or S14 never came with SR20DET's Only J-spec Silvias Came with the Black Top (Hump) SR20.

If the Valve Cover is completly flat then its from a 180SX or Silvia

Theres a serial number on the exhaust side of the block right in front if the bellhousing

Not sure if that can be used to find out if its a Zenki or Kouki. But thats the only helpful munber that i know of.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

This is my engine.....
What do you mean flat valve cover?
No VTC? (I think that is what they call it.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_18.jpg

[Sileighty_85]

This is my engine.....
What do you mean flat valve cover?
No VTC? (I think that is what they call it.


I cant see pics cuz of these work PC's
But S14 VC will have a bump on the Intake Cam side VTC and the valve cover slopes down @ the #4 Cylinder

[fliprayzin240sx]

This is my engine.....
What do you mean flat valve cover?
No VTC? (I think that is what they call it.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_18.jpg

Thats an S14 maybe even an S15 SR20DET. Wiring Harness plug into the ECU under the kick panel. We can tell you if its an earlier S14 engine (zenki) or later (kouki/S15) engine. To tell if its an S14 or S15 engine, take the coilpack off and look at it. S14 uses the fat coilpacks, S15s use skinny ones.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Thats an S14 maybe even an S15 SR20DET. Wiring Harness plug into the ECU under the kick panel. We can tell you if its an earlier S14 engine (zenki) or later (kouki/S15) engine. To tell if its an S14 or S15 engine, take the coilpack off and look at it. S14 uses the fat coilpacks, S15s use skinny ones.
Sorry, What and where is the coil pack? Is that th espark plug coils inbetween the valve cover?
Is this possibly a J-spec engine?
I just came into ownership of this car and haven't really goten the chance to do my research and get familiar with it. Thanks for the help.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Sorry, What and where is the coil pack? Is that th espark plug coils inbetween the valve cover?
Is this possibly a J-spec engine?
I just came into ownership of this car and haven't really goten the chance to do my research and get familiar with it. Thanks for the help.

Yes its a "J-spec" engine. SR20DETs were never sold in the states, in any car.
On top of the engine, take that carbon fiber piece off. You will see the coilpacks under there. Pop one off, tell us if its skinny or fat, better yet, take a picture. Then go find the ECU under the passenger side kick panel (assuming its located there since its in a 510 chassis). Disconnect the negative on your battery, then disconnect the ECU from the harness and take a picture of the harness plug.

[Monooxide]

He doesn't need to do any of this stuff.

This is a 93-96 Zenki S14 SR20DET.

The easiest and simplest way to tell an S14 SR20DET(Zenki) from an S14a SR20DET(Kouki). Is that on the Zenki engines(93-96) the valve covers had Stud and Nut combination for the attachment, while in the Kouki(S14a) engines it used a Bolt and tapped hole in the head similar to the KA. This is one of the Minor Changes(MCS14).

[SR20DETdatsun510]

He doesn't need to do any of this stuff.

This is a 93-96 Zenki S14 SR20DET.

The easiest and simplest way to tell an S14 SR20DET(Zenki) from an S14a SR20DET(Kouki). Is that on the Zenki engines(93-96) the valve covers had Stud and Nut combination for the attachment, while in the Kouki(S14a) engines it used a Bolt and tapped hole in the head similar to the KA. This is one of the Minor Changes(MCS14).
So with all of this said, In this community, which is the better or most prefered engine? S14 (Zenki) or S14a (Kouki)?
How much HP stock?
Thanks BTW for all the help!

[Monooxide]

So with all of this said, In this community, which is the better or most prefered engine? S14 (Zenki) or S14a (Kouki)?
How much HP stock?
Thanks BTW for all the help!

S14 and S14a are mostly identical with a slight ECU change, the valve cover bolts and upper timing guide removed. Other than this, that's all I know that changed engine wise.

Well, since yours is upgraded, Im assuming you mean what can the stock block hold power wise? Its been known to hold upwards of ~500WHP but I would recommend a built block at 450+. If you are referring to stock everything besides exhaust, boost and Intercooler then I'd say 270~280WHP is capable out of a stock ECU, Injector and MAFS setup.

Both of the engines are equally desirable unless you want to go to a Power-FC D-Jetro ECU.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Engine bay looks clean tho. Do you know what kinda turbo that is and what else is done to the engine. I'm willing to bet there are goodies under the valve cover...atleast im thinking in my head, why else would there be a BISIMOTO sticker on the back.

[Norcal510]

He doesn't need to do any of this stuff.

This is a 93-96 Zenki S14 SR20DET.

The easiest and simplest way to tell an S14 SR20DET(Zenki) from an S14a SR20DET(Kouki). Is that on the Zenki engines(93-96) the valve covers had Stud and Nut combination for the attachment, while in the Kouki(S14a) engines it used a Bolt and tapped hole in the head similar to the KA. This is one of the Minor Changes(MCS14).

Very informative!

[bkfill]

show us more pictures of the car
and more info on how you got it :)

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Hey,
So how I came to own this car huh?
Well, I wouldn't say I was cheap but I got a great deal on it.
Kind of Ironic but a friend in LA that needed to get rid of his baby to get married and have a real baby.
So let's just say I benifited from his situation.
Here are some more pics:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_2.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_7.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_4.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_16.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_8.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_6-1.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_9.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_11.jpg
Well, I know this is a Silvia Forum but it's still a Nissan!
Enjoy....

[SR20DETdatsun510]

So, I want to do something about the air cleaner. It is stuffed into a corner and of what I've read, the MAF needs to be at 12 inches away from the turbo intake to register correctly. As long as that is satisfied, can I extend the intake to better locate the Turbo?

[Monooxide]

So, I want to do something about the air cleaner. It is stuffed into a corner and of what I've read, the MAF needs to be at 12 inches away from the turbo intake to register correctly. As long as that is satisfied, can I extend the intake to better locate the Turbo?

Yep, of course.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Yep, of course.
Sorry, to be more precise, can I extend the intake to better relocate the turbo air cleaner?

[Monooxide]

Sorry, to be more precise, can I extend the intake to better relocate the turbo air cleaner?

I know what you meant. Yes, you can.

[bewst pewp]

intense


nice ass car though


and that's one big ass turbo to be running an internal wastegate?!?

i've never seen a top-mount run an internal wastegate

[SR20DETdatsun510]

intense

nice ass car though.
and that's one big ass turbo to be running an internal wastegate?!?
i've never seen a top-mount run an internal wastegate

I'm new to Turbo powered engines so is the wastegate the thing coming off the turbo? What would be the other options? It does take a little bit for the turbo to spool up. Could that be why? I am into perfecting this ride and learning all kinds of Sh!t along the way so thanks!

[Monooxide]

I'm new to Turbo powered engines so is the wastegate the thing coming off the turbo? What would be the other options? It does take a little bit for the turbo to spool up. Could that be why? I am into perfecting this ride and learning all kinds of Sh!t along the way so thanks!

If you're looking at the engine bay from the front, the wastegate is the round silver item to the left of the intake with a blue silicon hose going to it. This actuates a arm which opens a flapper door and allows the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine wheel in the exhaust housing to maintain the boost pressure that the wastegate actuator sees through that blue hose. This is all considered an internal wastegate, attached to and integrated to the turbo.

Another style of wastegate is an external one that is mounted inbetween the turbo and the engine and mounted on the area where all the runners of the exhaust meet together and enter the exhaust housing. This also has a silicon hose on it to control the boost pressure by opening to allow exhaust gas to be routed around the exhaust wheel and maintain a boost pressure.

The reason it takes a while for the turbo to spool up is because the engine has a shorter intake manifold, probably higher duration cams and a larger turbo. If you were to go back to a stock intake manifold you would see faster spool and a little less top end power but more in the mid range.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

If you're looking at the engine bay from the front, the wastegate is the round silver item to the left of the intake with a blue silicon hose going to it. This actuates a arm which opens a flapper door and allows the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine wheel in the exhaust housing to maintain the boost pressure that the wastegate actuator sees through that blue hose. This is all considered an internal wastegate, attached to and integrated to the turbo.

Another style of wastegate is an external one that is mounted inbetween the turbo and the engine and mounted on the area where all the runners of the exhaust meet together and enter the exhaust housing. This also has a silicon hose on it to control the boost pressure by opening to allow exhaust gas to be routed around the exhaust wheel and maintain a boost pressure.

The reason it takes a while for the turbo to spool up is because the engine has a shorter intake manifold, probably higher duration cams and a larger turbo. If you were to go back to a stock intake manifold you would see faster spool and a little less top end power but more in the mid range.
Awesome info! Luckily, the Datsun is a 73 so it is smog exempt. If I wanted to go to an external wastegate, I could.
For now, I do not feel any "turbo creep" so the internal waste gate is functioning well.
I have prioritized some other work to do on this car like instrumentation and electrical stuff (anyone know about gauges, gauging options and wiring? hahaha)
Since the 73 gauges were mostly all mechanical, non of them work and it doesn't have any guging except for fuel level. See, pretty imortant huh!
I am however, trying to learn as much as I can about this engine so thanks for all the info!

[Monooxide]

I have prioritized some other work to do on this car like instrumentation and electrical stuff (anyone know about gauges, gauging options and wiring? hahaha)
Since the 73 gauges were mostly all mechanical, non of them work and it doesn't have any guging except for fuel level. See, pretty imortant huh!
I am however, trying to learn as much as I can about this engine so thanks for all the info!

Sure what do you want to know?

I have a full 5 gauge Defi set installed in the OEM cluster unit.

[95KA-Turbo]

That engine looks like it has been properly taken care of already. If you want to set that car off get some 15s or 16s SSR MKIIs and a new muffler!

[S14DB]

Is it a 6 speed or a 5 speed?

[Monooxide]

Is it a 6 speed or a 5 speed?

Should be a 5 Speed.

[S14DB]

Should be a 5 Speed.

I know what it should be. Was asking the OP.

[OfourTHREEfive]

FOr someone who acquired this car you sure did get lucky. Make sure you do AMPLE research ( not just starting threads but searching on sr20's) before tampering.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Sure what do you want to know?

I have a full 5 gauge Defi set installed in the OEM cluster unit.
First off, got pics? Did you just gut the cluster and replace it with the Defi set? As you can see in the pic of my gauges, I want to keep the stock look but have them all functional. I'll have to take a look behind the dash but a stock cluster looks like this:

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Is it a 6 speed or a 5 speed?

Should be a 5 Speed.

I know what it should be. Was asking the OP.

It is a 5 speed, has a Silvia Knob and Boot.
Also has a Silvia Trunk Lock!

[esqueue]

Damn, that's one hell of a car. Smog exempt is the deal maker IMO.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

That engine looks like it has been properly taken care of already. If you want to set that car off get some 15s or 16s SSR MKIIs and a new muffler!
16's would maybe be the smallest due to the big Brembo Calipers in the front. Maybe even 17" minimum. I have to look into it but I agree, I want to change these rims. BTW, they are Staggard Racing Hart C4's 4x114.3. Kind of hard to find.
As far as what will replace them, I am not neccessarily into the retro JDM look. SSR's are not my taste unless they are SSR Professor SP2 or the newer school MKII's. Plus, the old school wheels are too small for my calipers. The exaust really needs to breath but I also agree maybe I can hide it more under the rear.
I'm open to more suggestions though.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

FOr someone who acquired this car you sure did get lucky. Make sure you do AMPLE research ( not just starting threads but searching on sr20's) before tampering.
Oh I plan to research thoroughly before i mess with anything. I don't intend to "Tamper" with the engine till I get some other things done.
I did get a good price for this car but still had to pay alot. But I will take this car to a whole nother level! I am going for "clean" right now and then if I am not broke, go for more HP.

[djcobra]

Looks like a Zenki Motor, from what i've read and seen if the S14 motor has fins on the front head it's a S14 Kouki Motor. I believe there was a thread about this, search it up. However, the S15 motor didn't have fins, so it could be either Zenki or S15 motor.

Steve.

[Monooxide]

First off, got pics? Did you just gut the cluster and replace it with the Defi set? As you can see in the pic of my gauges, I want to keep the stock look but have them all functional. I'll have to take a look behind the dash but a stock cluster looks like this:

I simply gutted the OEM cluster and put in a sheet of composite and hole sawed them and inserted the gauges, re-assembled all of it back together and installed it.

Here's a link to some progress pictures. CoupedUp.net - Efficiency Slave (http://coupedup.net/gallerymods.htm)

[SR20DETdatsun510]

I simply gutted the OEM cluster and put in a sheet of composite and hole sawed them and inserted the gauges, re-assembled all of it back together and installed it.

Here's a link to some progress pictures. CoupedUp.net - Efficiency Slave (http://coupedup.net/gallerymods.htm)

So what is all the hype about Defi gauges?
Please elaborate...
I like the colors and action but is it only because they are made in Japan? Or are they?

[Sileighty_85]

So what is all the hype about Defi gauges?
Please elaborate...
I like the colors and action but is it only because they are made in Japan? Or are they?

Defi's are the SHIT One of the best gauges on the market.
Defi link system will show peak values and recored gauge actions, Warning system,Stepping motors, Very accurate, easy to wire up, no splicing of wires necessary

Read up on them

I have some and I love them i will buy no other gauge.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Defi's are the SHIT One of the best gauges on the market.
Defi link system will show peak values and recored gauge actions, Warning system,Stepping motors, Very accurate, easy to wire up, no splicing of wires necessary

Read up on them

I have some and I love them I will buy no other gauge.
I guess I will have to research these gauges. I do like the open and closing ceremonies though! Really cool and shows intelligence is built in.

[Monooxide]

I really like the precision of the gauges they have very high quality sensors and stepper motors inside the gauge.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

I really like the precision of the gauges they have very high quality sensors and stepper motors inside the gauge.
Since they only sell 3 3/8" Tachs and not Speedos (I want them to match) I will only be getting the smaller gauges like Oil temp, Oil Pressure, Volt, etc.
What ones should I def get and which ones are just not needed for street use?
What's a good gauge for Speedo and Tach that match?

[Monooxide]

I recommend every setup that has an upgraded turbo and fuel managment have a Wideband and thes gauges no matter what, Oil Press., Boost and Coolant Temp.(if the stock one is faulty).

I bought the Defi Tach and Defi VSD for Speed.

It's like the 240SX Heads Up Display, it appears on the windshield.

I don't know of many good aftermarket speedos that are analog. I would only be able to recommend AutoMeter and I don't necessarily care for those.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

I recommend every setup that has an upgraded turbo and fuel managment have a Wideband and thes gauges no matter what, Oil Press., Boost and Coolant Temp.(if the stock one is faulty).

I bought the Defi Tach and Defi VSD for Speed.

It's like the 240SX Heads Up Display, it appears on the windshield.

I don't know of many good aftermarket speedos that are analog. I would only be able to recommend AutoMeter and I don't necessarily care for those.

Is there a reason you don't care for AutoMeter Gauges?
Besides not having the Opening and Closing cerimonies, they seem like they are quality Gauges. I mean racers have been using them for many years. I would say that they are race proven many times over.
I might just go with them because they have matching sets including Speedo. I like the Ultra Lite II's or the Pro Comp II's.
Defi would do good by creating a product line that includes all matching gauges with speedo too.

[Monooxide]

Is there a reason you don't care for AutoMeter Gauges?
Besides not having the Opening and Closing cerimonies, they seem like they are quality Gauges. I mean racers have been using them for many years. I would say that they are race proven many times over.
I might just go with them because they have matching sets including Speedo. I like the Ultra Lite II's or the Pro Comp II's.
Defi would do good by creating a product line that includes all matching gauges with speedo too.

I'm sure the accuracy of the Autometer is good but I just personally don't like that when the boost gauge is "zero" it is off and down in the vacuum range. It may be negligible and perfectly ok. I just prefer to not use them.

I am sure that you will enjoy them and be okay using them. Defi gauges are a lot of hype but they're very nice quality gauges too.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

I'm sure the accuracy of the Autometer is good but I just personally don't like that when the boost gauge is "zero" it is off and down in the vacuum range. It may be negligible and perfectly ok. I just prefer to not use them.

I am sure that you will enjoy them and be okay using them. Defi gauges are a lot of hype but they're very nice quality gauges too.

Ur cool man. I like honesty. Thanks!
Let y'all know what I decide to install and do pics when I am done.
Give me a month....hahaha

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Well, purchased the gauges!
Went with Autometer Ultra-lite II's.
Got a "3 3/8" Speedo" (to 160mph) and "Tack" (to 10k rpm) and
2 1/16" Full sweep "Oil Pressure", "Oil Temp", "Water Temp",
"Voltage" and "Fuel Level."
Next I need to find wire diagrams of both the 510 and the S14 SR20DET so I can figure out what I can keep and what I can tear out.
(BTW, are there diags here?)
I have a basic idea of how I want to mount everything.
I will put the Speedo and Tach in their Reg. posotions and put the Oil Pressure right in my face inbetween where the Speedo and Tach are. (currently the fuel level gauge). The other 4 I will mount down on my center console with my Boost and Turbo Timer.
Give me about a month to get everything squared away. Then Pics!! :x:

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Hey, need some info, I am installing my guages (autometer ultra-lite II) and really can't find out what sender I need. How do I figure this out?
Thanks in advance...

[Monooxide]

Hey, need some info, I am installing my guages (autometer ultra-lite II) and really can't find out what sender I need. How do I figure this out?
Thanks in advance...

Senders for what gauge?

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Senders for what gauge?
Doesn't the Speedo and Tach need senders?
Sorry if this is a noob question. I know one of them do.
I do believe the other gauges came with senders or sensors.

[s15specR]

Dude you're right here in Brentwood, hit me up and I'll help you out, I'm East of Nashville. I also got tons of parts for that engine that I'm swapping out.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Dude you're right here in Brentwood, hit me up and I'll help you out, I'm East of Nashville. I also got tons of parts for that engine that I'm swapping out.
That would be great. But I am in Brentwood, California! Damn! I could use the direction!

[s15specR]

Oh shit thought you were the local dude I've been hearing about with a 510, den again come to think of it he's in Franklin, oh well.

[Monooxide]

It will depend on your Speedometer...it will most likely be programmed to accept a certain amount of pulses per mile(ppm) and most likely the pulses per mile of the stock S14 SR transmission will NOT be an accepted one by the autometer tachometer. So, I looked into this in case my gauge wouldn't accept the speed signal(pulses per mile) and you'll have to get a Dakota Digital Speed Signal Converter I think the part number is SGL-5 or SLG-5 or something.

Now the tachometer will most likely be able to be setup for 4,6 and 8 cylinder engines and maybe more but basically you're going to have to somehow set or configure the tachometer to read 2 pulses per revolution I believe and then it will read accurately.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

It will depend on your Speedometer...it will most likely be programmed to accept a certain amount of pulses per mile(ppm) and most likely the pulses per mile of the stock S14 SR transmission will NOT be an accepted one by the autometer tachometer. So, I looked into this in case my gauge wouldn't accept the speed signal(pulses per mile) and you'll have to get a Dakota Digital Speed Signal Converter I think the part number is SGL-5 or SLG-5 or something.

Now the tachometer will most likely be able to be setup for 4,6 and 8 cylinder engines and maybe more but basically you're going to have to somehow set or configure the tachometer to read 2 pulses per revolution I believe and then it will read accurately.

I hope this helps. Good luck.
Damn dood, how did you get to know all of this?
Any help is immensly appriciated!
I also emailed Autometer to see if they can help.
Thanks again!!

[93 Sr Hatch]

Uhhh the U.S. S13 or S14 never came with SR20DET's Only J-spec Silvias Came with the Black Top (Hump) SR20.

If the Valve Cover is completly flat then its from a 180SX or Silvia

Theres a serial number on the exhaust side of the block right in front if the bellhousing

Not sure if that can be used to find out if its a Zenki or Kouki. But thats the only helpful munber that i know of.
hmm good info. thx

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Well, had my whip put in the shop for some upgrades!
Had a new rear end put in.
R200 Diff with Nismo LSD, Wolf Creek Racing CV's, Willwood Calipers, QA1 Coilovers, drilled rotors, SS brake lines, Datsport Mustache bar, Perrin 25mm Adjustable rear sway bar, poly bushings through out and redline LSD diff oil.
I also had the whole engine harness rebuilt and a data tap put in so I can see what codes the engine throws. Looked like a chimp did it before. (Edwin Bravo) Connected the alternator field circuit so my HIDS worked better,
Front wheel bearings repacked and adjusted, rear tranny seal replaced, Reverse switch sealed, Pitman arm urethane bushings, replaced fuel regulator, New Walbro 255 fuel pump, New Radiator over flow tank, Had 7 Auto meter gauges installed, heim joint inner bushing installed into control arm cross member due to front control arms binding.
Hood release installed, NOS tail light harness' (I am waiting to put the NOS euro rear lights on) and a few odds and ends.
She is a F'n sexy bitch now! She still has allot of stuff she needs but mostly cosmetic.

I will post pics soon.....

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Ok, Here are a few pics as I promised. (I'll also publish this in a show off thread....)
I have more of the rear end but they are on my phone. So untill I can down load them or take some pics on a lift with my Dig Cam, these will have to suffice.
First off, this is what I took out:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/IMG_0031.jpg
The previous owner did some weird stuff to this rear end. Most weird is welding the Maxima Calipers straight to the control arm instead of using an upgrade bracket.
So this is what replaced it: Here is a pic of the Wolf Creek Racing CV kit:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/WolfCreekRacing510CVKit.jpg
(I will insert a pic of the new rear end installed here when I get the pics)
Other upgraded rear end components are an R200 w/NISMO LSD, Willwood brake kit, drilled rotors, all SS brake lines, QA1 Coilovers, Perrin 1" sway bar, Datsport Mustache bar, all poly-u bushings and optional 5 lug conversion.
I also had a bunch of other work done too.
Gauges Before:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_9.jpg
After: Full set of Autometer Ultralite II full sweep gauges
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/DASH2-1.jpg
At Night:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/DASHLIGHT.jpg
Still working on the console to mount the 4 gauges down below.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/DASHLIGHT2.jpg
Here's some interior shots:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/INTERIOR.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/REARSEAT.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/REARWINDOW.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_13.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_17.jpg
Ok, here are some wheels I have on it right now.
I got them for a great deal. Cheap. And they were all refinished too. The only thing I do not like about them is the intentional "fade" they tried to do but I will rock them till I have to have them refinished myself. (silver with Polished lips)
They are WedsSport RS-5's 17x7 +35 with Falken Azenis RT-615 205/40-17.
Also Ichiba 10mm spacers and Kics racing composite r26 Neo chro lug nuts (sweet) .
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/WedsRS-5.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/WHEEL1.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/WHEEL2.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/WILWOOD.jpg
I also had my engine harness totally rebuilt and a data port installed to see what codes it is throwing. (next upgrade is APEXi engine management)
Had a radiator overflow intalled, Greddy Pullys, Braided fuel lines, Tomei cams and a several other front end things.
Ok, here are some more pics of the engine
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/ENGINE4.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/ENGINE7.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/PULLYS.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn158/xtc-9k/510_8.jpg
It runs sooooo much better now and it will scream with engine management!!!
The next thing to do is get EM and get over to the dyno and post some numbers.
Maybe rack-n-pinion but the rest is all cosmetic.
To Be Continued........

[Sileighty_85]

please tell me you keep this car in a garage with like bank vault doors

[godsmack]

Really nice car. If it was mine i'd sleep in the garage with a 12 guage right next to me.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

I have a R160 LSD Subi diff for sale if anyone here knows any 510 guys that want one. $500 firm.
It is in excelent condition. Pick up only.
I am in Nor Cal Bay Area.
I will post this in FS section.....

[240sxjohny]

THIS IS A N S15 SR20DET WITH A PAINTED VALVE COVER, I KNOW THIS BECUASE IT HAS AN EXTRA PIECE OF ALUMINUM AND THIS HOW YOU TELL.
:newbie::mephfawk::fawkd::keke:

[SR20DETdatsun510]

^ That clears things up...... ^
Thanks for being clear about that extra piece of aluminum. :rolleyes: :loco:

[Sileighty_85]

THIS IS A N S15 SR20DET WITH A PAINTED VALVE COVER, I KNOW THIS BECUASE IT HAS AN EXTRA PIECE OF ALUMINUM AND THIS HOW YOU TELL.


That/You sound like a ra-tard

He doesn't need to do any of this stuff.

This is a 93-96 Zenki S14 SR20DET.

The easiest and simplest way to tell an S14 SR20DET(Zenki) from an S14a SR20DET(Kouki). Is that on the Zenki engines(93-96) the valve covers had Stud and Nut combination for the attachment, while in the Kouki(S14a) engines it used a Bolt and tapped hole in the head similar to the KA. This is one of the Minor Changes(MCS14).

This is a S15 engine
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/Misc/VFSH0014.jpg

[SR20DETdatsun510]

To the untrained eye, it looks just like my motor. Which I was told was an S14.
How else can you tell an S14 from an S15?

[Sileighty_85]

To the untrained eye, it looks just like my motor. Which I was told was an S14.
How else can you tell an S14 from an S15?

like Monooxide said the Valve cover fasteners, S14(Kouki's) and S15's are bolts S14's (Zenki's) are stud/colsed ended nuts

[aNskY]

sick 510.. that turbo kit is baffling me though.. is that a top mount gt28? lol...
and there is lots of restriction in that intake.. cleaning that up will net you noticable HP.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

sick 510.. that turbo kit is baffling me though.. is that a top mount gt28? lol...
and there is lots of restriction in that intake.. cleaning that up will net you noticable HP.
Yes, I do believe it is a top mounted GT2860RS with ceramic coated turbine and manifold.
I would love to change that intake but the MAF does not like to be so close to the compressor. Any ideas?

[aNskY]

Yes, I do believe it is a top mounted GT2860RS with ceramic coated turbine and manifold.
I would love to change that intake but the MAF does not like to be so close to the compressor. Any ideas?

I guess theres just not enough room for a turbo bottom mount? a top mount t2 mani has to be custom. you just dont see that.

as for the intake, either have someone fab you up something with less restriction, or better yet go D-Jetro :coold: