Z32 e brake

[Brian]

so, I have everything for it hooked up on my s13, but CANNOT get it to work right. It just won't get tight enough to lock the rears.
I've tried adjusting it via the shoes as well as the handle 10mm nut.
nothin.


So, anybody down here in SoCal that can fix it?
I'll take it to a shop. I don't care.

Anybody had a shop install this for them?


let me know.

[karl wasabi]

Project mu makes "D1" pads for the Z32 drum e-brake.

[Brian]

Lol, I have Project Mu shoes.

My rotors, pads, shoes, lines are all brand new.

[THE PROPHET]

You can try "Foothill Automotive", its my cousins shop. Number is (626) 963-4611 and ask for Pat. Its in Glendora and its home of the allstars MX-5's, just thought i'd mention it first cuz i know you hate those cars hahaha. But anywho just trying to help cuz im sure he can help you.

[Brian]

Thank you, but I am looking for somewhere local.
Long Beach area.


also, I can't take my car somewhere that created those Miatas.

:)

[UNISA JECS]

The 10mm nut under teh e-brake handle is the last thing you want to adjust, you need to adjust the shoe clearance adjustment until it drags on the drum, then back it off just enough until it doesn;t drag anymore.

Then you can proceed to adjust the 10mm nut under ebrake handle last.

How many clicks are you getting before you feel resistance in the ebrake handle? On mine I get about 3 clicks then it gets firm.

[THE PROPHET]

haha no worries, either way good luck gettin it fixed cuz i will be out in balcony on the 15th as well and want to see some kA action and will be out there takin notes

[Brian]

Yeah I adjusted the shoes like that.

I set them to the "smallest" setting, then clicked the little adjuster until it rubbed the rotor, then backed it off a click or 2.

the handle pulls up pretty far and it BARELY seems to hold the rotors.
so... i dont understand.

I really suck at cars, so I might be the problem.

[UNISA JECS]

What chassis what cables are you running?

[Brian]

S13 hatch.

Z32 2+2 cables.
R32 GTR rear rotors/calipers
Project Mu shoes
Endless Vita Nuova pads.

and I also have a nice bracket that extends the mounting point of the lines back a few inches.

[UNISA JECS]

I think maybe your not adjusting the shoe clearance adjuster enough. The rotor should remain on while doing this adjustment, you should also keep the rotor on the hub firmly (use some washers and tighten the lug nut).

Adjust until you cant spin the wheel then back of with 3 clicks (actuate the ebrake a few times) then check for drag, if its draging then back offf one click at a time until no drag. Do the same to both sides.

[UNISA JECS]

If at all possible you can unbolt teh axle from the diff output flange that way you can detect the drag more easily.

[Brian]

That's how I did it.
I just don't understand what the deal is.

It's probably just a dumb mistake by me somehow, that's why I want to just have somebody else do it.

[UNISA JECS]

Also if when you made your cable brackets, if you forgot to unloosen the 10mm adjusting nut all the way until the nut was flush with the end of teh threaded portion under the ebrake. You probably ran out of adjustment.

Heres a pic of me unloosening mine before I made my custom modifed cables.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/Picture027.jpg

[Brian]

THAT I did not do.
Interesting.

It might have had an inch of thread showing already.

I didn't make the bracket on my own, I bought it from a forum member.



I don't even want to deal with it anymore. I just want to pay somebody to fix it.
:)

[UNISA JECS]

This is my half done wireup on J30 ebrake cables, tottally different thing than yoru z32 ebrake setup, but the design of yoru brackets shoud have been done while your 10mm adjustment but was atleast loosened up like in teh pic above if not more.

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/174369-how-j30-e-brake-cable-s13.html

[Brian]

I don't know.

http://bhworld.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/0115091621.jpg

this is the bracket I have.

[UNISA JECS]

Actually the correct way of making such a bracket is to make sure of the following:

0) Make sure the shoes have a good amount of pad life or better yet design them around new shoes.
1) Loosen 10mm nut all the way to the end before it falls off ofcourse.
2) Adjust shoe clearance adjuster till drag then back off 6 clicks


Doing it this way will allow for future adjustment to compensate for shoes lining wear.

[Brian]

maybe I can loosen that nut on the handle like you said, then try to adjust the shoes again...

[UNISA JECS]

maybe I can loosen that nut on the handle like you said, then try to adjust the shoes again...

Thats not gonna help.

What you can do is unloosen the 10mm nut and redesign the bracket, perhaps there is enough room to tap another hole in the bracket.

[UNISA JECS]

I just been to lazy to design this and sell them, same deal with my J30 ebrake cables.

[Brian]

I didn't make the bracket.
It was premade by a member to apply the 2+2 cables to a s13.

Isn't there a pretty standard measurement to make the brackets to? I don't understand why it wouldn't work in my situation.

[UNISA JECS]

I didn't make the bracket.
It was premade by a member to apply the 2+2 cables to a s13.

Ok got you. Well looks like yoru best bet is to see if you can make a easy modification to them to allow you to get a firmer ebrake.

[Brian]

This sucks.


anybody want to make $50 by fixing my e brake?

[Brian]

also, is there some kind of specific way that you have to route the cables through the subframe / rear arms area?


I had a shop do it for me the first time (before I even knew about that bracket that needs to be made).

WTF.


this whole thing makes me say WTF.


I just want to do some e brake slides.

[Brian]

Anybody have a photo of hot the lines are routed through the subrame / control arms?