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Bigsyke
01-22-2009, 07:40 PM
So I was installing my spacers, snapped the rear drivers side subframe stud. I can still thread a jam nut on here, since there is about 3-4 threads left. I cant however use the lower OEM collar.

I used a jam nut and a washer, is this safe to even drive like this?

Would the answer to my problem be solid subframe bushings, and use a fender washer, then weld the jam nut to the stud?

Its my daily driver btw.

JDS Performance
01-22-2009, 07:52 PM
Oh man it sux to be you!

If you want my honest opinion;

Remove the stud - you will have to drill/cut out the interior of the car over where the stud is - go to the junk yard do the same thing - then weld the new one on - make absolutly sure it is aligned correctly or you will never get your subframe on agin!

I would not trust your "wingnut thing" idea. Not on a suspension.

projectRDM
01-22-2009, 08:00 PM
So I was installing my spacers, snapped the rear drivers side subframe stud. I can still thread a jam nut on here, since there is about 3-4 threads left. I cant however use the lower OEM collar.

I used a jam nut and a washer, is this safe to even drive like this?

Would the answer to my problem be solid subframe bushings, and use a fender washer, then weld the jam nut to the stud?

Its my daily driver btw.

Lots of info on that here. All I can really add is PWN3D! I feel for you mang, that's a horrible feeling to realize that chit.

Bigsyke
01-22-2009, 08:14 PM
Yea im depressed and working on a bottle of scotch;

Could the subframe "pop out"?

Bigsyke
01-22-2009, 09:19 PM
Could I weld the subframe to the stud? There are 0 240sx anywhere within 500 miles of me. Ive got to come up with something creative.

I was thinking about welding a nut, to a fender washer, to another nut, so I could incorperate the subframe lower spacer.


stud = ] l =

= is washer
] subframe spacer
l fender washer

Ive filled the threads on the jam nut (3-4 threads) so I dunno, the jam nut is about 1/2 the amount of threads as the OEM nut

Marc240
01-22-2009, 10:37 PM
This isnt a very good situation where you can just throw things together. Like someone has said before you will have to cut and weld. A very hard and long process.

Bigsyke
01-22-2009, 10:51 PM
Is the car drivable in your guys' oppinions?

I mean I have the jam nut torqued to 40lbs/in

HS13KLS
01-22-2009, 10:58 PM
HELL NO.

dont drive it

Bigsyke
01-22-2009, 11:02 PM
Isnt the subframe floating however?

codunc
01-22-2009, 11:18 PM
if nothing else, cut the stud out and drop a bolt through with a big washer on top
and use the nut on the bottom. your subframe isnt something you want coming off your car while driving

Bigsyke
01-22-2009, 11:28 PM
it cant "fall" off though can it? I can see the subframe dropping if my rear drivers end gets airborne, but isnt it usually compressed? I jacked my rear end all the way up and it didnt come close to falling off, it just dropped an inch or so on that corner when I didnt have the jam nut on.

weissguy
01-22-2009, 11:33 PM
I wish I didnt have to format my computer about a year ago because the same thing happened to me on my s14 about 5 years ago. I personally did not do the fixing but I was there for every step of the way so let me see if I can describe it to the best of my ability.

-Snapped the rear drivers side stud while trying to install collars

-went to junk yard and sawz all'd the section of the car that had the stud in it plus about 6 inches on either side of it.

-cut a hole in the trunk because there is a locater bolt/pin that locates the stud to where it needs to be (i forget how this works)

-plasma cut the old section out

-used the locater pin on the new section to place the new section/stud where it needed to be.

-welded it back together


Like I said, I did not do the work myself and it has been 5 years. Plus, I dont have the pictures anymore of what we did. I wish I would have uploaded them to the internet.


I know my description kind of sucks but there is a solution to everything so dont give up on it yet.

ryangreg
01-22-2009, 11:34 PM
heres what I would do:

get solid aluminum subframe inserts and install them.

just with those you would prolly be good, cause there is no longer any float left in subframe....

but -

the mount with the broken stud....get those 2 slabs made out of steel rather than using the aluminum pucks, insert in subframe and weld to whatever remaining stud there is.

Def
01-22-2009, 11:47 PM
If you've got a jam nut on there, just reinstall it with loctite with a washer above it and call it good. That's basically the stock S13 setup and it'll be fine for even track usage IMO. Just watch the bushing for signs of wear, but I don't think you'll see any.

Bigsyke
01-22-2009, 11:56 PM
heres what I would do:

get solid aluminum subframe inserts and install them.

just with those you would prolly be good, cause there is no longer any float left in subframe....

but -

the mount with the broken stud....get those 2 slabs made out of steel rather than using the aluminum pucks, insert in subframe and weld to whatever remaining stud there is.

Yea thats what i was thinking. Only issue is I couldnt ever drop the gas tank, diff ect. However that is a very good Idea, and hopefully I can find those 2 slabs of steel your talking about.

If you've got a jam nut on there, just reinstall it with loctite with a washer above it and call it good. That's basically the stock S13 setup and it'll be fine for even track usage IMO. Just watch the bushing for signs of wear, but I don't think you'll see any.

You da [email protected]

Yea my bushings pretty much fell out...But I do have a jam nut/washer with perminant locktite.

Def
01-23-2009, 12:00 AM
For anybody saying the snapped off bit adds extra strength - thing of what the "extra" bit of a bolt does that is sticking out past threads on a nut... Nothing. They're not stressed at all, so as long as your jam nut holds(which it should), you'll be good.

Gumballf355
01-23-2009, 01:51 AM
I seen someone weld the subframe to the chassis and then enforce it with metal bar. Very simmilar to using solid bushings anyways. I say if it's a beater or track slut. It's an option.

mikeroy420
01-23-2009, 02:33 AM
The samething happen to me. You have two options.

1) You can order a new crossmember from Nissan or junk yard.

2) You can completely remove the rear subframe. Get under the car and take measurements from the side and the rear of the car. Or just roughly guess. Get in your trunk and cut a hole with 2 inch hole saw (i think that was the size I used) were you measure or estimated the location of the stud. Once the hole is cut, crawl back under the car and take a big jesus hammer and pound it out. You either have one machined or find a replacement from a parts car. What I did was, cut the stud were the threads begin and welded a bigger bolt on to the cut off stud. Put it into a lathe and turned it down the same size, thread pitch, and length. The hole you cut, you can either try welding that piece back, or get another peice of steel metal. Body fill, and your done. Hope this helps


Mike

ryangreg
01-23-2009, 10:05 AM
or you could center the the broken stud from inside the car, cut the STUD off from under the car, drill a hole and drop a bolt through that would be fairly easy.

Chrischeezer
01-23-2009, 10:28 AM
yeah.. before u do so, make sure the bolt in perfectly in alignment install the subframe and then tack the stud up.

JDS Performance
01-23-2009, 03:47 PM
Do what you will I have already told you the proper and safe way to do it.

Def
01-23-2009, 04:04 PM
Why replace the stud if he just lost some threads and already has a nut on there?

JDS Performance
01-23-2009, 04:21 PM
Why replace the stud if he just lost some threads and already has a nut on there?

3 turns of a nut is not on there - but by all means take the risk yourself - I would not be so dumb as to risk my life or car for being lazy to not fix something properly. nuff said

Def
01-23-2009, 04:51 PM
3 turns of a nut is not on there - but by all means take the risk yourself - I would not be so dumb as to risk my life or car for being lazy to not fix something properly. nuff said

3 full threads and a threaded connection has typically reached maximum strength.

Besides, the subframe stud is loaded primarily in shear, not in tension, so you're not "risking" anything by not replacing the stud.

There is a difference between knowing you'll be fine, and blinding hoping. There's this nifty thing called engineering that'll let you know the difference.



The only downside to this is that it'll be more of a PITA to pull the subframe back up in the future, but even then I'd hardly call it a big deal.