Project: Efficiency Slave

[Monooxide]

I have been a lurker of Zilvia.net and recently became "active". I'm CoupedUp on other forums.

I figured I would share my build with all of Zilvia. My name is Sean and I am currently a 20 year old college student so the build up may take some time to get it where I want it.

I have some pretty far-fetched ideas and I will reveal them here in this thread over time. I will not release details until I become close to being able to complete these ideas as I don't want to give away my secrets. ; ).

The whole mindset of this build and what I will be doing is solely based around efficiency, from volumetric to center of gravity.

I have built a website out of boredom, you can continue to check there for updates on the car. CoupedUp.net - Home of the Efficiency Slave (http://www.coupedup.net/)

I haven't really posted my build on a national forum so I will go ahead and give a recap of what I have done to the car. If you want to see pictures you can visit the gallery portion of the website to view the swap pictures, fabrication pictures or the most recent prep. work.

The car is a 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe w/ 132k miles, I bought it with a HICAS VLSD, SPL Tension Control Rods and KYB AGXs. I have since done an S14 SR swap and researched and wired the harness myself. ; ). I had upgraded to an FMIC, Manifold, Elbow back Exhaust and a lightweight flywheel. I also have converted it to a Silvia front end with K's front bumper.

I had a lot of fun with the stock setup and ran it at roughly 13 PSI and made 273 WHP and 280 WTQ. I have since then purchased Nismo 555cc injectors, HKS GT2530 and an Electromotive TecGT Standalone. I have also removed the power steering and had the rack converted to a manual rack by Defined Autoworks. I also stripped and gutted the car and hope to embark on Painless Wiring here soon.

I recently got the car running and will be tuning it this weekend on some 4000 series Dynapacks. I can't wait to see what it makes and be able to drive this thing again.

Here are some pictures to make the reading worth your while. Thanks for looking and I'll try to keep updating this as I continue the build. I will next be ditching the KYB AGXs for some Coilovers.

PICTURES:

http://coupedup.net/gallery/swap/IMG_0242.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/swap/IMG_0263.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/swap/IMG_0262.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/mods/img0302vy3.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/mods/Dyno273WHP.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/mods/img0600bu4.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/mods/img0680tv9.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/mods/img0747fg4.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/img0943nt5.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_1024.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_1044.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_1145.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_1147.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_1158.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_1159.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_1213.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_1215.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_0305.JPG

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_0175.jpg

http://coupedup.net/gallery/race/IMG_0170.jpg

Those last two pictures are of the clutch and flywheel setup I hope to be running by June at latest. :D 7.25" Tilton Dual Disc and Fidanza 7.25" Flywheel, let the RPM begin!

[Brian]

people are going to go ape shit over your meter panel.

[Otto347]

^^ yeah that shit looks nice!

[SoSideways]

That's not the HKS GT2530 turbo that's on the motor in those pics is it?

Cause mine has the compressor outlet pointing straight up, like how it is on the S13's T25s point straight up.

Looking nice so far though. Baller parts too.

[Monooxide]

That's not the HKS GT2530 turbo that's on the motor in those pics is it?

Cause mine has the compressor outlet pointing straight up, like how it is on the S13's T25s point straight up.

Looking nice so far though. Baller parts too.

Yea you're right I don't really have any/many pictures of the HKS installed, that turbo is the S14 T28.

Thanks.

[SoSideways]

Yea you're right I don't really have any/many pictures of the HKS installed, that turbo is the S14 T28.

Thanks.

Yeah I was just trying to see which WG actuator you went with for the GT2530 cause I'm trying to use the stock T25 one, but it's no good, and there's not much info out there about which WG actuator to use for that turbo for S-chassis guys...

[Monooxide]

Yeah I was just trying to see which WG actuator you went with for the GT2530 cause I'm trying to use the stock T25 one, but it's no good, and there's not much info out there about which WG actuator to use for that turbo for S-chassis guys...

I have the HKS 18 PSI actuator.

[piranhamatt]

people are going to go ape shit over your meter panel.

I already did, but I was so apeshit I couldn't type a reply until now.

Your car is looking good.

[SoSideways]

Yeah that's the kit that I was gonna get. The HKS actuator kit for the T25.

[CamryOnBronze]

Wow, gorgeous cluster... this is gonna be a sick build! Love the silvia front too as always...

[wannabe_drifter]

That cluster is really well done ! Really clean. Too bad the rpm doesn't quite clear the top of the space there, same for the two outer gauges.

Can't wait to see how you make the whole car more 'efficient'. Could be interesting.

[Monooxide]

That cluster is really well done ! Really clean. Too bad the rpm doesn't quite clear the top of the space there, same for the two outer gauges.

Can't wait to see how you make the whole car more 'efficient'. Could be interesting.

Yea, it will be quite the journey. ; D

The outer two 52mm clear that plastic piece the tachometer however doesn't but the tachometer does fit within the OEM plastic cover of the cluster itself.

Thanks.

Wow, gorgeous cluster... this is gonna be a sick build! Love the silvia front too as always...

I am living in Farmington, MI, working in Plymouth, MI and going to school in Flint, MI.

[ixfxi]

what did they do special to convert the steering rack to manual?

[Om1kron]

from the looks of it, they just plugged the the input holes....

I would just like to know where you bought your relay's from?

[C. Senor]

yeah. that cluster is pretty fuckin rad. the car looks like it's going to be pretty bad ass dude.

[Monooxide]

what did they do special to convert the steering rack to manual?

I'm not 100% sure, it's something that guys in the RX-7 world do. I know they remove the end oil seals from each end and they welded the line holes shut as well as RTV filled the ports. I'm sure if I had looked around I could have done it myself but I lived with the guy so I had him do it. Also, the box is packed with medium weight grease as well and will need re-lubrication every so often.

from the looks of it, they just plugged the the input holes....

I would just like to know where you bought your relay's from?

The relays are freaking amazing. They are super high-quality and you can get mounting tabs for them, like you see in my pics. Also these relays have the pin for Normally Closed.

You can get them here: Board Relays from AEI Components (http://www.boardrelays.com/)

You would need the following parts to make ONE relay that interconnected to a relay beside it.

-1x BRSPT - Interconnecting Bracket
-1x BRS14E - Pre-Wired Relay Socket
-1x BU5083W - 40A Relay

You would then need to de-pin the Pre-Wire Relay and insert the wires with terminals into the Interconnecting Bracket.

I have put these things through the test haha, my ECU came with a preset of some sort of duty cycle signal and I buzzed the hell out of one or two of the relays for over a minute. I then got it all settled away so theyre used from everything from Fans and VTC to Headlights.

[White Comet]

i love the cluster. my brother made his own cluster as well. one done right they look great

[ixfxi]

I'm not 100% sure, it's something that guys in the RX-7 world do. I know they remove the end oil seals from each end and they welded the line holes shut as well as RTV filled the ports. I'm sure if I had looked around I could have done it myself but I lived with the guy so I had him do it. Also, the box is packed with medium weight grease as well and will need re-lubrication every so often.

thats what i did to my rack.

just curious if anything out of the ordinary was done.

[steve shadows]

Great work, I am a huge proponet of doing MORE with LESS, now...

congrats on a great setup, lmk I can ever help you with remote tuning help in the future as well.

[mondojackal]

wow. props on a nice beginning to a build. i like the "build slowly with high quality parts" approach you're seeming to take, rather than the typical 240 owner approach of cheaping out on stuff to get it on the road sooner.

also, what are the specs on your wheels and tires? i'm obviously not talking about the stock ones.

[Monooxide]

wow. props on a nice beginning to a build. i like the "build slowly with high quality parts" approach you're seeming to take, rather than the typical 240 owner approach of cheaping out on stuff to get it on the road sooner.

also, what are the specs on your wheels and tires? i'm obviously not talking about the stock ones.

Thanks man, I like the philosophy of do it right or do it twice.

They are older Volk GT-U F: 16x7 +35 w/ 225/45?/16 and R: 16x8 +32 w/ 255/50/16. I hope to take them apart soon and have the centers powder coated a bronze/gold soon.

2 days and counting!!! Until tune that is. :D

[redclaw05]

what guages you have.
look very nice. i need to do that to my car.

[98s14inaz]

people are going to go ape shit over your meter panel.


Hell yeah, do want:eek2:

[Om1kron]

sweet, thank you sir. Just what I was looking for.

[Monooxide]

what guages you have.
look very nice. i need to do that to my car.

They're Defi Blue Racer 52mm and of course an 80mm for the Tach.

sweet, thank you sir. Just what I was looking for.

No problem.

[Om1kron]

Also imo I think it's pointless to de-power the rack on the car, I would like to hear your insight at what gain you feel you will have from it besides a more "direct" steering feel and stronger forearms from parking?

Now if you got your hands on a hicas rack that has a better and larger ratio than our normal racks and depowered it, then it would make sense I suppose as to add a bit more angle from manual steering.

[Monooxide]

Also imo I think it's pointless to de-power the rack on the car, I would like to hear your insight at what gain you feel you will have from it besides a more "direct" steering feel and stronger forearms from parking?

Now if you got your hands on a hicas rack that has a better and larger ratio than our normal racks and depowered it, then it would make sense I suppose as to add a bit more angle from manual steering.

Ladies love the forearms! ; ). Haha jk.

I wanted to try it out and see what it was like as I had the ever so famous PS Line leak at the pump...so rather than making a line with all the fittings for about $70 I decided to give it a shot. It will be better than a non-modified rack with PS still installed and no PS. I hope to see very noticeable gains at sit-still parking lot situations, we'll see and I'll let you guys know.

I didn't know the HICAS rack had a different ratio...I was looking into 240Z and other old Zs that weren't powered to begin with and adapting those. I will look into the HICAS rack now... thanks!

[SoSideways]

I didn't know the HICAS rack had a different ratio...I was looking into 240Z and other old Zs that weren't powered to begin with and adapting those. I will look into the HICAS rack now... thanks!

The HICAS rack, IIRC, has a steering ratio of like 14.7:1, whereas the stock non-HICAS rack is somewhere around 17:1.

[Om1kron]

The HICAS rack, IIRC, has a steering ratio of like 14.7:1, whereas the stock non-HICAS rack is somewhere around 17:1.

You are correct which means your turning radius will actually be slightly smaller however your steering input will be a lot quicker.

[fromxtor]

Maybe get a more efficient radiator and hoses?

[Monooxide]

Maybe get a more efficient radiator and hoses?

Lol...in the works...in the works... I totally agree, it's an eyesore but soon enough it will be gone.

I bought other more expensive things first. I was planning on getting a new radiator and then I bought a Electromotive Standalone...and then a turbo...sooo...it fell to the wayside.

[Monooxide]

So, today I got the car on the dyno and I got to tune it for roughly an hour and then we quit an we'll start tomorrow.

The car is doing something pretty weird. We got the AFR across the low load range with good AFR. Then we started to start walking up the load at 2000 RPM and it progressed smoothly during spool up to about 12:1 AFR at 8 PSI then it had this break up/misfire.

We then replaced the plugs and re programmed the ECU with the saved map before replacing the plugs. The car then started to have this weird hunting issue near 2000 RPM where it dropped 300 RPM and then back to 2000 and down. If we went higher than this it would be perfectly fine. We walked back up the scale to 8 PSI roughly and once again the same break up/misfire. So we let it idle and for some reason it idled at 14.7 AFR even though we had it at 13.0 ish earlier. So we re program the ECU and now the idle is back to normal but the 8 PSI still does the breakup hokey pokey and we had to stop tuning.

So tomorrow we'll get back on it and try to figure things out. I am using NGK BKR7EIX and stock gapped. The timing is at 15 degrees base...so...I don't know what's up. Troubleshooting the setup tomorrow...we'll see how it goes. I don't know if it's spark delivery related or spark plug or what's going on as the AFR was 12:1 when it started it's dance...which isn't an AFR where it should be misfiring or breaking up.

[Monooxide]

So, basically the weekend of tuning was pretty uneventful.

I think I killed the coils, the weekend before this one when I didnt have the ground connected. I'll do some troubleshooting and see what happens. I at least got it driveability tuned and drove it 4 hours to where I live. So I guess it is kind of a win...

[Monooxide]

Well, I figured out the problem. I had to re-wire the Electromotive harness to use all four coil drivers and setup the ECU as a 4 cyl. dual plug.

Here is the completed harness with Coil Pack Harness incorporated and rewired. I love Standalones...makes the harness so clean and simple. It's all hidden away on the intake manifold side with one wire running up under the head in the front that you can barely even see. The harness is soo short too.

Anyhow, it runs great now. It only boosts up to 10~12 PSI but im sure thats a wastegate or boost leak issue. I'll get that sorted out and I will be tuning it this weekend I hope!!!

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/160/img0315i.jpg

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9977/img0320.jpg

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1048/img0327g.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/634/img0332s.jpg

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9940/img0337j.jpg

[Monooxide]

Back in this bitch, but a lot more rich...or something like that.

The car has been on hold due to me having to drive it all the time with a friend borrowing my DD to get to work. So here are some parts I've collected over the past few weeks. Once I get my tools up here I will start diving into this thing.

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/7983/img0462s.jpg

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/5916/img0463s.jpg

What is in that piano shaped box?

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/8172/simg0473.jpg

If you guessed a piano...you're wrong. However, it is a thing of music to my suspension geometry.

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/4008/simg0476.jpg

A whole assortment of things are still in the mail. As you can tell my suspension is getting a MAJOR overhaul. I am getting Z32 Brakes, Coilovers, 5-Lug(new rims as well) and swapping to an S14 Subframe.

My tools arrive next week so it will be go time. I am about to put the car up on jack stands.

If anyone wants the rims that are on the car right now, PM me.

[JohnnyDrfiter22]

"If anyone wants the rims that are on the car right now, PM me."

FOR FREE??? lol but nice build thread!

[tricky_ab]

Great work so far!

[speedfreak90]

dude very nice i like alot of the work u are doing... very nice. props to you man

[PoorMans180SX]

Hey, you're on Aspec, aren't you?

Sick build man. Looking forward to your "efficiency" ideas. I'm always interested in making the most of every little thing, as well as getting the best of the best.

[Monooxide]

Hey, you're on Aspec, aren't you?

Sick build man. Looking forward to your "efficiency" ideas. I'm always interested in making the most of every little thing, as well as getting the best of the best.

Yea, I'm on Aspec.

Thanks guys.

[MandTPhotography]

Subscribed. Good shit man. Welcome to Zilvia.

[CamryOnBronze]

Do you have anything for a speedometer? I'm working on a similar gauge setup at the moment. Is the fuel gauge a cyberdyne one? How was wiring it/how does it work? Looks great man!

[Bigsyke]

Nice rack, but next time you relube it use a grease loaded with molybdenum. The moly will coat the metal parts quite well. I use it on energy suspension bushings too.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ghb.aspx
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82&pcid=17

[Monooxide]

Do you have anything for a speedometer? I'm working on a similar gauge setup at the moment. Is the fuel gauge a cyberdyne one? How was wiring it/how does it work? Looks great man!

I use a Defi VSD, it's up in the spot where the OEM HUD would be.

Nice rack, but next time you relube it use a grease loaded with molybdenum. The moly will coat the metal parts quite well. I use it on energy suspension bushings too.

AMSOIL - Synthetic GH Series Heavy-Duty EP Grease (GHB) (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ghb.aspx)
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Grease and Assembly Lube - CV-2 Grease (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82&pcid=17)

Wow, awesome! Thanks!

[KA24DESOneThree]

Stances aren't very efficient and Z32 brakes are heavy.

It's a labor of love, though, and you have to perfect everything as funds allow. You kinda did the thing backwards, though, making horsepower before being able to handle or stop it.

[Monooxide]

Stances aren't very efficient and Z32 brakes are heavy.

It's a labor of love, though, and you have to perfect everything as funds allow. You kinda did the thing backwards, though, making horsepower before being able to handle or stop it.

Lol, ok. I'll remember when it's your birthday and send you such an inspiring message such as this.

A) The stances are to allow me to install the Z32 Uprights now since you need Z32 rear forks. Also, I have KYB AGXs currently so it wasn't like it handled horribly. I have the intentions of doing better suspension later.

B) I realize this. I never drove the car like a retard where the S13 brakes couldn't stop the car. Also, the Z32 brakes are heavy? They're aluminum, the fronts weigh 8 lbs. a piece and the rears are 5 lbs., that's with new pads at that.

C) Thanks for the criticism as it's welcome seeing as how it's posted on this national forum. I don't see it as doing it backwards honestly. The brakes portion maybe, however the S13 brakes did fine for me as I haven't really tracked it or anything yet.

[onepuff]

So you've been driving it? How do you like the depowered steering rack so far?

[airhead]

mmmm i have a hicas rack... it has a small leak tho. i was thinking just replacing it with a non hicas rack but i might just Rebuild it or replace the seal ;) good info

hicas rack= harder to turn/more steering ratio

non hicas rack= smooth turning/less steering ratio

i have tried them both that wat it feels to me.

[Monooxide]

So you've been driving it? How do you like the depowered steering rack so far?

I really enjoy the rack how I have it. The steering effort isn't that bad. It's not as easy as power assisted of course but nowhere near just removing the belt on the pump.

Yes, the HICAS rack will be harder to turn because you're making the wheels turn faster per turn of the steering wheel, therefore requiring more work/effort to do it.

UPDATE: The rest of the interior has been removed. I have gotten the brakes and rotors off and waiting for my tools to show up next week to drop the subframe and remove the suspension.

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/3982/img0508s.jpg

The sunroof is an aftermarket unit and is going to be a BITCH to remove. It has a sealant applied all the way around the water tray.

Also, in regards to the post earlier about Z32 brakes being heavy, they're 1 pound heavier than stock brakes. This is also with new pads in the Z32 calipers and completely gone pads in the S13 ones. So, they're probably closer to .5 pounds different per caliper.

[PoorMans180SX]

Ew that looks nasty. Never saw the point in getting an aftermarket sunroof. There's never a good way to do it.

[Monooxide]

So, I finally got out into the garage after being sick and such.

So, here's what I have been up to.

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/7571/img0521sd.jpg

http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1686/img0526su.jpg

http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/9905/img0522sa.jpg

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/7853/img0523s.jpg

The OEM bushings were worn a bit.

[venom_5]

somehow i missed this thread over the last couple years, but i just subscribed ... looking good so far, anxious to see the project continue

[Monooxide]

Cleaned up the Z32 Uprights and assembled the E-Brakes. I started prepping the new subframe by burning out the old bushings. I still need to hacksaw/sawzall the metal sleeves out and polish the rear bushing cups. Then it's time for reassembly and making some brackets for the ebrake cables(need to figure what im gonna do there).

http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/7286/img0546s.jpg

http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/8498/img0549s.jpg

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2752/img0547s.jpg

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/5530/img0551si.jpg

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/2395/img0550s.jpg

Sunroof Replacement. :D. Approximately 100x lighter.

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/8325/img0530s.jpg

[Om1kron]

nice!!! .................................

[Monooxide]

Got the OEM sleeves removed and bushings pressed in. Time for some re-assembly.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/3451/img0554ao.jpg

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/100/img0555nk.jpg

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3665/img0556u.jpg

[rocksteady_racer]

Love the build so far. I also love 300z brakes. There is an article around somewhere where actually the z32 brakes are the limit for stopping power in the 240sx (unlike those stupid ridiculously large 8-piston or 6-piston race brakes which are actually uneccessary). And the guy that said they were heavy was probably talking about the iron ones not the aluminum ones. Why did you go with Z32 rear uprights? I didn't on my build but I assume it's so you can lighten up the back end a little right? And when you get the z32 e-brake in there you'll realize how awesome a separate drum e-brake is ;).

Keep up the good work.

[Monooxide]

Love the build so far. I also love 300z brakes. There is an article around somewhere where actually the z32 brakes are the limit for stopping power in the 240sx (unlike those stupid ridiculously large 8-piston or 6-piston race brakes which are actually uneccessary). And the guy that said they were heavy was probably talking about the iron ones not the aluminum ones. Why did you go with Z32 rear uprights? I didn't on my build but I assume it's so you can lighten up the back end a little right? And when you get the z32 e-brake in there you'll realize how awesome a separate drum e-brake is ;).

Keep up the good work.

Thanks! Yea, I am curious if I'll need to upgrade brakes after these as the car will weigh ~2450-2500 pounds. If anything I would probably go to some larger diameter rotors with some offset brackets.

I went with the Rear Z32 uprights because they lower your unsprung weight(as well as overall curb weight) but this provides a significant suspension improvement.

[rocksteady_racer]

For my e-brake setup I went with a Portefield shoe replacement - carbon kevlar - it works great for parking but you have to heat it up like regular carbon kevlar race brake pads (ie ebc's red stuff) to actually use it to control drifts so I think stock shoes would be a better option unless you plan on using the e-brake extensively to drift.