WTF....2 months and still havn't found the answer

[nrmskate]

Well, today is a holiday, so I have the day free.

For the past month-2months I have been trying to figure out this fucking problem.

Im so tempted to just take it to the mechanic, but I don't wanna spend the money.

I rather just fix it myself.

I get spark, fuel, and air.

3 major things, im not sure what else the problem could be.

These video speaks for itself.

YouTube - KA24E Problems contd... (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6EhtMGRivA)

It takes quite a few tried to get it actually to start up and idle right.

I think it might be the fuel pump, but im not sure, just stumped.

[piranhamatt]

Check for horrible vacuum leaks?

[slider2828]

Did you check timing? Unless your exhaust is disconnected, such a basey sound seems like timing to me. Borrow a timing light a verify.

[piranhamatt]

Did you check timing? Unless your exhaust is disconnected, such a basey sound seems like timing to me. Borrow a timing light a verify.

My SR sounded similar until I got timing right. It was one tooth off.

[discosteak]

have you tried replacing the IAC? have you checked fuel pressure? made sure plug wires arent arcing on something? timing?

[nrmskate]

Timing is good.

Mechanic did it.

They time cars everyday, I highly doubt their wrong.

Sprayed some carb cleaner on the lines, no noticable leaks.

Just cleaned the IACV.

Fuel pressure is between 38-40

Replaced plug wires and plugs

[discosteak]

is it misfiring in the video or just wont idle?tried cleaning the MAFS or another CAS

[slider2828]

Its misifiring though.... Get a light and learn how to time it..... Just to double check.... don't trust anyone, do it yourself if it is that simple.

[jrbump]

Timing is good.

Mechanic did it.

They time cars everyday, I highly doubt their wrong.




And I reset passwords for network access everyday, and i mess up a couple times a day.

[nrmskate]

Okay, just to find out and show you guys.

Where the fuck is a timing light for rent?

Autozone?

[slider2828]

Yes Autozone....

Hold on he can't even time it if he can't get it running LOL!

Ergh... what did you do to the car? Was the motor running before. Give us the full history or we can't really help you. Even Video is useless without knowing what you did to the poor ka

[Om1kron]

i think you have to buy one... could be wrong. My KA did the same shit, pull your plugs from the ka and see if any of them have oil in the spark plug well... one of mine was filled with oil, the car will idle properly when it finally gets to temp which is what you're doing with the continuous restarts... I bet if you press the gas it will act normal from 1500 rpm on up but wont hold idle...

brake booster line may have a hole in it as well...

[nrmskate]

Im going outside now to RECHECK it all.

Anyways, I can get it running, did you miss that part?

It just takes a few tries.

And what is it supposed to be at, 15? I think.

[slider2828]

I think its 20 before top dead. 15 is SRs timing. Pull your plugs as well let us know.

[nrmskate]

Just looked at the FSM, it says 15.

But anyways, apparently we have a timing light/gun.

It's old skool.

lol, Im a beginner to this, how exactly do I do this?

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa216/nrmskate/untitled-4.jpg

[slider2828]

Kewl.... Black on negative, red on battery position. Clamp on cylinder 1 coil... Set your timing to 15 degress before TDC and when the light hits it, it should read TDC on your crank....

I think that is how it is... I always get confused about the set

[nrmskate]

Wow, I just noticed it only gives me an option on the gun for 6 or 8 cylinder engines.

Does it matter?

There is a switch on the tach that says, "Dwell, Tach, or PT. RES."

Another one saying RPM Range, "Lo or Hi"

And then a cylinder switch "6 or 8"

[slider2828]

I have never seen something like that....

Just try everything.... otherwise autozone and borrow a timing gun...

[nrmskate]

I just got done pulling the codes in -2 degree weather.

I came up with 13 (Engine temperature sensor circuit) and 41, which isn't even listed.

[Ceepo]

Maf but i think it would idle better then what it is now even with a bad maf, looks like timing to me as stated ^

[nrmskate]

Read my post above yours.

Can the Engine Temp. Sensor cause the car to do that?

And is the coolant temp sensor the same as an engine temp. sensor?

[slider2828]

No it couldn't.... It causes probably at most fluctuating idle but doesn't make it start 4-5 times and idle like crap like int he video

[slothonaleash]

have you compression and leak-down tested the motor?

[RckyMtnS13]

My ka-e started doing something similar a while ago. It would take multiple tries to start it, but after sitting on the starter for a minute or two it would finally start to hiccup and turn itself over. Once it started, it ran OK anywhere over idle. But as soon as the rpm's dropped, it would cut out - repeat starter shenanigans, and it would run.
The coolant temp sensor was bad. Replaced it, and it ran awesome. When the sensor goes bad, it defaults to something like -40*, so the computer dumps fuel in to warm it up. It was running extremely rich, and died at idle.
But that was just my experience. Its a cheap possibility, anyway.

[nrmskate]

What did you do to fix it?

[tramp_drift240]

ive had my timing half a tooth and it would do what youre talking about.

granted, mine's a DE, but same shit applies. since its a single slammer, it should be easy to use some reference and figure out if your timings straight or not.

[RckyMtnS13]

What did you do to fix it?

Bought a new sensor and plugged it in

[nrmskate]

What sensor?
Did it completely fix your problem?

[RckyMtnS13]

The coolant temperature sensor, or engine temperature sensor, same thing
In my case, yes, it fixed the problem completely.

[HS13KLS]

yea i dont think its a MAF problem..
you car would at least idle..
did you post this on chicagoarea..
sorry if i didnt see it sooner or i couldve helped you troubleshoot this 2 months ago!
anyways.
so you have already check you IAC...
does no one think its a spark issue.. because i do.
check for you distributor cap and rotor..
look for cracks in the cap and stuff like that.. just replace it..
if you need a sohc rotor, pm me.. i think i have one. ill give it to you if you pay shipping (probabaly 1 dollar) and get a new cap.

CHECK YOUR PLUGS AGAIN.
i had a similar problem with my dohc.. i would floor it and it sounded like it was on lanch control. my rotor was ate up. so i replaced that and my ignition coil and it fixed my problem..

let us know what happens

[nrmskate]

I actually took another video tonight.

I will upload ASAP.

[ryguy]

Pull the spark plug in cylinder 1 and make sure that the piston is at top dead center when the distributor is on cylinder 1, although that shouldnt be a problem if the distributor was never removed.

[Nezahualcoyotl]

i checked the rest of you vids and saw a 240SX burn out, did you notice it go bad before or after tht? or is it even your car in the vid?

[idlafie]

Timing is good.

Mechanic did it.

They time cars everyday, I highly doubt their wrong.

Sprayed some carb cleaner on the lines, no noticable leaks.

Just cleaned the IACV.

Fuel pressure is between 38-40

Replaced plug wires and plugs

Did you ever reply to Slider2828 post about the history of your motor PRIOR to it acting up?? Do you service it routinely?? What's the condition of your fuel filter?? When was the last time it was replaced?? If it hasn't been replaced in the past 30k miles, replace it.

If your motor has over 150K on it, locate & replace your PCV valve. The easiest way to access your PCV valve is to pull your alternator & come in from underneath. The PCV valve is attached to a square block that's bolted up to your intake manifold. It's a MAJOR [email protected]#ing pain in the ass to do, but it should be done as a precautionary measure. A bad or clogged PCV valve can cause vacuum problems.

Check & test your fuel pressure regulator. Make sure it is working properly & not flooding your motor...see your FSM for directions. I believe it should be at 34 when idling and around 40 when driving. Also, try loosening the gas cap from the gas tank when you start the car. If you have a problem with your carbon cannister vapor locking on you, that could be a cause for your dying.

I know you cleaned out the IAV valve but did you clean out your throttle body also?? If not, then clean out your intake throttle body with carb cleaner or a can of Seafoam. Go to YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. (http://www.Youtube.com) & type in "Seafoam" for instructions. Remember pour 1/3 in your gas tank to clean your dirty fuel injectors, pour 1/3 in your engine block to clean your oil & stuck valves & 1/3 in your brake booster line to clean out your IAV valve. The main purpose of using seafoam is to remove all the carbon buildup that is in your combustion chamber.

Check & test your wiring leading to your MAF. A bad ground wire at your MAF can lead to a stumbling & dying condition you are experiencing now. S13's are known for this problem..you might have to run a new ground wire to your MAF.

Re-check all your vacuum lines for a leak. Spraying them with carb cleaner was a good idea, but you might want to move them / bend them as you check them again. If you can use a BRIGHT flashlight/shop light when you check the vacuum lines. Use your FSM to follow each line as you check it.

Changing the spark plug wires & plugs was a good idea. The gap was set properly correct?? .39-.44 and the right heat range right?? The cap & rotor were also replaced right?? Check your idle speed again by disconnecting your idle adjustment subharness...see your FSM for the proper procedure. It should idle around 750 rpm with the subharness disconnected. I've worked on enough S13 & S14 motors to realize mechanics have been lowering the idle to around 500 rpm just to get the motor to pass smog.

And before I forget, recheck your IAV valve. If I recall correctly, I've heard people say something about a "reed" inside going bad. You might want to check this thread out from another board for additional. IACV Question - HIGH IDLE: 240SX Technical Forum: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub (http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/203123)

Anyhow, hope this helps....

Good luck

ID

[nrmskate]

Fuel filter I actually replaced 2 days ago.

Motor has 86k on it.

Fuel pressure checked out.

I will seafoam this weekend.

MAF I checked, checks out good.

Ill double check the vacuum lines again.

I got them from autozone, and they come pre-gapped to OEM specs.


And the guy who commented on the burnout, that's not my 240, friends DOHC with a one wheeler.

[slider2828]

Do a compression test and a timing the motor.... Nothin really left

[NismoSilvia270R]

The coolant temperature sensor, or engine temperature sensor, same thing
In my case, yes, it fixed the problem completely.

my corolla has a bad coolant temp sensor. It wouldnt allow the cold start injector to prime, so it took a few cranks to finally run without bogging/dying out. especially in the COLD

fixed my rolla in similar way

[nrmskate]

Thanks, I will change that ASAP, along with the AIT Sensor.

Im not gonna bother with compression checking it, it runs great when it actually starts.

<3

[nrmskate]

Almost forgot.

Sorry, it sounds like im 12 years old.

Anyways, this was after I cranked it and wamred it up a bit.

It's about 2 degrees in this video.

YouTube - HPIM0923 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDd6YT_5gio)

[nrmskate]

Bump....Video is up.

[blueshark123]

make sure u get the temp sensor for the ecu and not for the tach its the one that has a plug and not a spade connector

[nrmskate]

http://www.autozone.com/images/products/wl2/wl2su4115003.jpg

This right?

[blueshark123]

yea man........