View Full Version : mobile 1 or lucas tranny oil?
koke0319
12-30-2008, 01:00 AM
which woukld be better for my zenki mobile 1 or lucas tranny oil?
NISMOTUNEDZ
12-30-2008, 01:02 AM
Id go with lucas...
alzahakar
12-30-2008, 01:22 AM
Depends on your engine/tranny setup and how much power you will be making and all that. If you are stock, get bulk gear oil.
essforteen
12-31-2008, 03:08 PM
Red line MT-90
S14DB
12-31-2008, 03:25 PM
Red line MT-90
Ugh, I have seen to many trannys go to shit after a year of using that stuff. I can't recommend it anymore.
I have been using the Mobil 1 gear oil for 5 yrs now. Every time I drain it it looks great still. Gears are in great condition now. Had a lot of vanish on them from the stock gear oil. All came out in the second change. Now look almost new.
I have seen to many bad things about Lucas on Bob is the oil guy to ever use it.
racepar1
12-31-2008, 03:30 PM
Neither. I used mobil1 synthetic once in my trans. It grinded gears when it was hot. Lucas, nah. MT-90 screws up trannies. I would use royal purple or NEO.
Om1kron
12-31-2008, 03:35 PM
I would use GM Syncromesh... fuck lucas oil. Buy it before gm goes kaput lol. I would also use honda manual tranny oil.
Used mobil 1 before, shit grinded like no tomorrow once it got warm. I've read too many bad things about redline just de-materializing and constantly needing to be changed. Fuck all that noise.
Try the syncromesh, you will not be disappointed.
xpertsnowcarver
12-31-2008, 03:42 PM
using lucas 80w90 after rebuildin the tranny. works perfect for me.
S14DB
12-31-2008, 03:43 PM
I would use GM Syncromesh... fuck lucas oil. Buy it before gm goes kaput lol. I would also use honda manual tranny oil.
Used mobil 1 before, shit grinded like no tomorrow once it got warm. I've read too many bad things about redline just de-materializing and constantly needing to be changed. Fuck all that noise.
Try the syncromesh, you will not be disappointed.
Syncromunch is not even close to the right weight for our trannys and diffs.
Om1kron
12-31-2008, 03:53 PM
Syncromunch is not even close to the right weight for our trannys and diffs.
:duh:
..............................
S14DB
12-31-2008, 04:09 PM
:duh:
..............................
It's a 5w-30 GL4. Have fun with that. I'll stick to my 75/80w-90's.
mothon
12-31-2008, 04:19 PM
I hear so many different things about tranny fluid for our cars, some swear by redline while other say it eats transmission, same thing with royal purple.
Homer_Simpson
12-31-2008, 04:30 PM
I've used the GM Synchromesh with Friction Modifier on my S14 for years and everything was butter smooth even with me beating on it daily. As soon as I replaced that with the Redline stuffs, the tranny started grinding right away. I'm going back to the Synchromesh.
Ugh, I have seen to many trannys go to shit after a year of using that stuff. I can't recommend it anymore.
I have been using the Mobil 1 gear oil for 5 yrs now. Every time I drain it it looks great still. Gears are in great condition now. Had a lot of vanish on them from the stock gear oil. All came out in the second change. Now look almost new.
I have seen to many bad things about Lucas on Bob is the oil guy to ever use it.
If anything, the gear oil you use is going to ruin the tranny. The Mobile 1 gear oil you use is GL-5 rated.. which ruins brass. The syncros in our transmissions are made out of brass...:ugh:
Vision Garage
01-01-2009, 03:11 PM
water!!! just plain ole H20! that should do it!
racepar1
01-01-2009, 03:22 PM
It's a 5w-30 GL4. Have fun with that. I'll stick to my 75/80w-90's.
Actually the GM synchromesh is closer to ATF, which is even farther away from the proper weight for our trannies.
If anything, the gear oil you use is going to ruin the tranny. The Mobile 1 gear oil you use is GL-5 rated.. which ruins brass. The syncros in our transmissions are made out of brass...:ugh:
Let's see some proof that GL-5 ruins brass. That's all a bunch of smoke and mirrors bullshit man. It is the additive package that makes the oil better or worse. I used GL-5 oil all year last year and it was a shift fork that broke in my trans, not a synchro. I use NEO 75w90 HD or RHD. I then replaced all the forks with some out of a donor tranny and sold the trans. It still shifts like butter to this day. GL-4 or GL-5 doesn't matter, it is all about the additive package. I personally like to use oils from smaller companies as their additive packages are better engineered.
LongGrain
01-01-2009, 04:04 PM
i used royal purple in mine. it was ok. no complaints
i was going to switch to redline mt-90 when i put my engine back in, but maybe i wont after these reviews. yikes
speaking of which, i think i need a new rear transmission seal, there was purple fluid all over my driveshaft tunnel last time i did an oil change lol.
umsports
01-01-2009, 04:09 PM
I run a little mix on my ka-t. 1 qt or royal purple 10w-30, 1qt or royal purple 75w-90,1/2 qt of lucas transmission fix. The car makes 530whp/455tq and this mix has been a blessing because I used to swap out trannys every 6-9months. Previously I always ran synchromesh but this cocktail has been much better for me. Also I really didn't like Royal Purple motor oil for my engine but in the tranny it's great.
LongGrain
01-01-2009, 04:13 PM
I run a little mix on my ka-t. 1 qt or royal purple 10w-30, 1qt or royal purple 75w-90,1/2 qt of lucas transmission fix. The car makes 530whp/455tq and this mix has been a blessing because I used to swap out trannys every 6-9months. Previously I always ran synchromesh but this cocktail has been much better for me. Also I really didn't like Royal Purples motor oil for my engine but in the tranny it's great.
word, i was running RP 10w40 in my SR. it didnt go over well
going with Eneos 0w50 now.
SleepyS-14
01-01-2009, 04:14 PM
Lucas. I have used 85-140 in my tranny and diff(kazz 2 way with friction mod) for over 3 years(change about every 2-3 events. I love the stuff. All of my friends use it in their 240sx. We all track our cars heavily. I know FD drivers that use lucas in their cars. I am not saying its the best, but I have no reason to change to anything else. It shifts so smooth when its warm,hot.
essforteen
01-01-2009, 09:25 PM
Ugh, I have seen to many trannys go to shit after a year of using that stuff. I can't recommend it anymore.
I have been using the Mobil 1 gear oil for 5 yrs now. Every time I drain it it looks great still. Gears are in great condition now. Had a lot of vanish on them from the stock gear oil. All came out in the second change. Now look almost new.
I have seen to many bad things about Lucas on Bob is the oil guy to ever use it.
wow did not know that
well im happy i went with Motul
S14DB
01-01-2009, 10:44 PM
I am tempted to try this:
Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid (http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/supplier/product.asp?product=Full%20Synthetic%20Manual%20Tr ansmission%20Fluid&category=Transmission%20Fluid)
skylinegtr20
01-01-2009, 11:03 PM
Royal Purple. Simple as that!
Let's see some proof that GL-5 ruins brass. That's all a bunch of smoke and mirrors bullshit man. It is the additive package that makes the oil better or worse. I used GL-5 oil all year last year and it was a shift fork that broke in my trans, not a synchro. I use NEO 75w90 HD or RHD. I then replaced all the forks with some out of a donor tranny and sold the trans. It still shifts like butter to this day. GL-4 or GL-5 doesn't matter, it is all about the additive package. I personally like to use oils from smaller companies as their additive packages are better engineered.
Why would Nissan recommend the use of GL-4 rated fluid in their transmissions but recommend GL-5 for their differentials?
intresting read:
Gear Oil Selection (http://www.ratwell.com/technical/GearOil.html)
Oils are made from base stocks, refined and then mixed with additives to improve their performance. GL-5's incompatibility is due to the extreme pressure (EP) wear additives. To give the gear oil its EP rating, it's easiest to add a sulpher based additive like MoS2 (molybdenum disulphide) but the sulphur present in the oil (you can smell it) is responsible for eating the copper alloy used to make the synchros.
GL-4 differs from GL-5 by the amount these chemicals are mixed into the oil (1/2 to much less in GL-4). Since the same additives are present in GL-4, they will eat the synchros as well but at a point in time that is beyond the expected service life of the gear stack.
To get the GL-4 rating, the oil has to pass the ASTM D-130 test. This test determines how reactive the sulpher is against a polished copper strip. The strip is also subjected to heating to simulate the running conditions in the gear box.
To obtain GL-5 certification, the manufacturer does not have to pass the ASTM D-130 test. This is the main reason why you should avoid GL-5. So, if you put in a call to a manufacturer about their GL-5, that test result is what you want to verify.Some people will claim that using GL-5 in a GL-4 spec transmission doesn't apply when the GL-5 is synthetic. This depends on the oil and cannot be generalized. However, it should be noted that many GL-5 synthetic gear oils do not use sulpher in their EP additive package and can pass ASTM D-130.Even if the ven if the manuacturer states the gear lube is "non-corrosive", its viscosity index may be too slippery for the VW style synchros. This means that while the syncros won't corrode, the oil is not designed to grab the hub the way GL-4 does and the transmission will wear out another way.As a final caution, some GL-5 formulas have been known to permanently coat the synchros in a VW manual transmission reducing its life by 50%.
GL-5 MT-1:
In recent years a new gear lube rating has appeared: API GL-5/MT-1. MT-1 all by itself is just as non-suitable as GL-5 can be but in combination some manufacturers when asked are now stating that formula is ok to use in place of GL-4. It is hard to verify if these gear oils are suitable for the transmission. Certainly, they have not done as much research as VW has done but at the same time VW is no longer testing new transmission oils with their obsolete models.
What is clear is that the oil has to pass ASTM D-130 to get the MT-1 rating. This will determine if their EP additive package is non-reactive with copper. However, until you try shifting the gears you won't be able to confirm if it's got the proper viscosity.
For that reason, sticking with GL-4 is simply the best course of action for long transmission life unless you can verify mileage and shifting performance with another owner.
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