Drilling broken stud gone wrong...

[Bigsyke]

Snapped exhaust stud, exhaust leak so I drilled. I found out I drilled at a slight angle while drilling a snapped exaust mani stud. The stud was a few mm behind the surface of the head.

The hole is way off center, and heading towards aluminum.

Would a new head be the only way to salvage this opperation?

[slider2828]

no... I think you are ok.... just use easy outs after that....

Srew Extractor | Bolt | Stud Extractor | Bolt Removal (http://www.toolprice.com/product/1218A/Srew_Extractor__Bolt__Stud_Extractor__Bolt_Removal .html)

Get some PB blaster and soak that shit every hour today and leave it over night and try again. Maybe you can even use vice grips after the PB...

[orion::S14]

Ouch...

Maybe a little larger bit, and try to re-aim the hole.

Dunno, man...you're headed into dangerous waters...BUT, if you screw it p, you'll still need a new head.

SO your choices are -

Stop now, and live with the leak.

OR, try again, and get that sucker out. Then re-tap larger, OR use a new stud...whatever is appropriate.

- Brian

[Bigsyke]

no... I think you are ok.... just use easy outs after that....

Srew Extractor | Bolt | Stud Extractor | Bolt Removal (http://www.toolprice.com/product/1218A/Srew_Extractor__Bolt__Stud_Extractor__Bolt_Removal .html)

Get some PB blaster and soak that shit every hour today and leave it over night and try again. Maybe you can even use vice grips after the PB...


im already using one and a left handed reversed drill bit, no dice, just further enlarges the hole...

[greenman100]

take it to a machine shop, and have them bore it and helicoil it. should be about 50 bucks

[Bigsyke]

Id have to remove the head, its my DD. cant do that till next summer.

Two questions;

Will having a snapped stud eventually warp the header flange? (aftermarket)

and is there a gasket thats thicker than average to help seal the leak (snapped stud is the closest to the radiator - 1pc flange on header)

[slider2828]

o woops wrong one....

Use this one....

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999909000P?vName=Tools&cName=HandTools,GeneralPurpose&sName=Bolt-Out,%20Taps%20&%20Dies&psid=SHOPZILLA01&sid=IDx20070921x00003c

MUCH BETTER.... you can find em at sears I think

[slider2828]

Nope replace the stud bro.... easy.....

Yes S15 7 layer metal exhaust gasket from Phase2

[sillyvia13]

I got same deal on my ka24de, its 1st stud in front by rad, leaks BAD! lol..

Oil seals are junk in cyl 1 too so oil seeps out...

all good tho other than the tick from a tight exh leak.. sounds like metal on metal but just air...

*cough *cough j b weld... lmao.

[reinvent]

you also misspelled "operation".

[s13drob]

as long as the easy-out can get grip in the hole drilled, it should come out. it doesnt need to be deep anyways. good luck

[S13sam]

good luck bro... i had the same prob and thought i could fix it myself and i fucked my head up so now good bye to rb and hello to ls1. if you have a friend that knows how to do it try and see if they can help you get it out.

[Bigsyke]

anybody know how long it takes to warp a stainless header with just 1 snapped stud?

[alkemyst]

anybody know how long it takes to warp a stainless header with just 1 snapped stud?

I will end up leaking in about a month or so (depending on driving). I only drive about 5-10miles a day.

I just went through this. I redrilled for an M12x50x1.25 stud. You have to be careful as it's easy to drill too far and hit the water jacket. Then you will have to seal it with RTV and make sure the threads are tight.

The header shouldn't permanently warp though.

[essforteen]

Im in the same boat too

I got that exact problem but i just read on another thread that i can weld a nut on it

but my problem is that it sheered off a little in the head so welding might not work

so now im just living with the exhaust leak as my eyes tear up in traffic LOL..

[chuonthis]

BigSyke, same stud broke for me a while ago. I posted about it here: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/208466-ticking-engine-bay-1-3k-rpm-under-load-not-timing-chain-guides-tensioner.html#post2258372

What size drill bit did you use? If you used something big like a M10 or M8, then maybe try to use the M6 in the set that I ended up getting from Sears (link in other thread). As long as you haven't drilled until the end of the stud, you might have a chance of getting it out still. The bit will probably break like I described but you should be able to get it out once it's "stuck" and breaks.