View Full Version : Drilling into body problems?
don_bagz
11-28-2008, 09:48 PM
hi guys, first off, not sure if this is in the right section so feel free to move the thread...
okay, i just bought a body kit and it doesn't have holes on it yet.. so, any tips and tricks on to how you guys (in your experience) drilled the holes to match up with the car..
and secondly, on the skirts, i would need to drill into the body.. but im concerned about RUST. is there any precaution or anything i should to prevent rust?
thanks for the help guys.... :dead:
I10cruiser
11-28-2008, 09:52 PM
tape em up.. . throw some paint or clear over any exposed metal:D
silpena
11-28-2008, 10:19 PM
just tape them up and just mark where to drill iwth a fine marker or pen. As for the holes i just get a dab expoxy primer or maybe paint. I wouldnt worry about it rusting. Just get a tight seal.
don_bagz
11-28-2008, 10:23 PM
okay.. so just painting the holes and primer would help prevent rusting?
Bigsyke
11-28-2008, 10:38 PM
just tape them up and just mark where to drill iwth a fine marker or pen. As for the holes i just get a dab expoxy primer or maybe paint. I wouldnt worry about it rusting. Just get a tight seal.
I would worry, Grab a dremel or deburring tool from ace hardware. Smooth the transition and deburr the edge. paint cant stick on the edge of a cut, and it will start to rust in 2 years.
A sharp edge means rust can spread under the layer of paint, a smooth transition blocks it.
Id be worried about moisture getting trapped behind the body kit, so use a rubber shim and wax the crap out of the contact base.
silpena
11-28-2008, 10:41 PM
or he can use a little seam sealer to seal it off. really it wouldnt rust at a fast rate. As long as he doesnt make a huge burr then hes cool.Theres still a rust preventive coat on the metal. You have to get past the that in order to rust out the hole.
don_bagz
11-28-2008, 10:50 PM
rubber shim and wax is something im not familiar with.. that would be something to read about.. is there a site that i can read about these stuff? coz i would need to drill into the body under fender so i cant bolt in the skirts.. but, im worried about the hole rusting.
and i cant see plastic cover in on the holes on where the stock skirts are secured on.. do those help?
mrmephistopheles
11-29-2008, 02:35 AM
Or you could NOT drill holes in your body and ruin it for the next owner.
Just an idea...
I10cruiser
11-29-2008, 03:21 AM
wait you mean like at the ends of the side skirts right?. . do you really need to be worring about rust in socal? jk
don_bagz
11-29-2008, 09:42 AM
Or you could NOT drill holes in your body and ruin it for the next owner.
Just an idea...
i kinda need to secure the kit.. i mean, i really dont want to drill into the body, but i dont want the kit to fall off either!!
if there is another way to do it with out drilling the body, i would go down that route
wait you mean like at the ends of the side skirts right?. . do you really need to be worring about rust in socal? jk
im sure cars n socal still rusts.. hehehe. cant be too cautious...
and yes at the end of the side skirts, where it goes into the wheel well.
kingston240
11-29-2008, 03:45 PM
if your not worried about WANTING it to come off... say you dont track the car, you can get a 3m two sided tape, and run that along the ends and a spot in the door jam.
Bigsyke
11-29-2008, 04:07 PM
No matter what you do, dont just drill into a panel that you CANT access from the other side.
don_bagz
11-29-2008, 11:40 PM
if your not worried about WANTING it to come off... say you dont track the car, you can get a 3m two sided tape, and run that along the ends and a spot in the door jam.
im thinking of just doing this.. is there one that is water proof or something?
No matter what you do, dont just drill into a panel that you CANT access from the other side.
that is exactly what i said when i tried to install the kit. i mean, it needs to be secured, but i dont want to drill into the body especially at the side. i mean, i can drill a hole in the fender (the part in the wheel well. like the bottom of the rolled fenders. cant quite describe it, but its the part where the stock skirts are screwed into) coz i can easily access the other side to make sure i can do some paint or clear coat on it to help reduce the risk of rust.
silpena
11-29-2008, 11:46 PM
unless u dont drill then 3m will do but eventually it will fall off. My advice would to get smc adheasive and clamp it down well with good prep. Hell if i can use it to put new door skinds then u can use it to keep your new side skirts on but taking it off is not really gonna be cool.
don_bagz
11-30-2008, 01:15 AM
unless u dont drill then 3m will do but eventually it will fall off. My advice would to get smc adheasive and clamp it down well with good prep. Hell if i can use it to put new door skinds then u can use it to keep your new side skirts on but taking it off is not really gonna be cool.
so what is it? smc adhesive? ill read into it...
ill drill but, not into side of the body just to secure the skirts.. but, i will drill at the ends only adding a couple holes to where the stock skirts was bolter...
silpena
11-30-2008, 02:19 AM
basically a really strong adheasive made to join metal, fiber glass, plastic panels together. Its flexible also. a couple small drills on the ends shouldnt rust too fast. I would do use a step drill to reduce burring.
don_bagz
11-30-2008, 12:51 PM
so if i used that adhesive, i might as well say good bye to the paint under the skirts?
dori_sil8t
11-30-2008, 12:55 PM
stainless rivets. zipties and love. thats how my sides are held on
xplicit240
11-30-2008, 12:56 PM
why cant you just line up the holes to where the wheel guards are screwed to? i mean they are already there.
silpena
11-30-2008, 01:49 PM
yeah u can pretty much say bye to paint under but it will stay on and look clean.
stainless rivets. zipties and love. thats how my sides are held on
Yep, mine too.
How hard is it to take a q-tip with some paint on it and go around the edges of a hole you drill to keep rust away then put a rivet in it?
All the double sided tape on my sideskirts eventually fell off/let loose after some hard driving on 100+ deg F days.
Bigsyke
11-30-2008, 05:32 PM
Adheisive such as urethane will eventually crack, seperate and trap in moisture/salt, which will rust really quickly.
You want to have a slight gap between the body and the skirt for water to wash trapped dirty/salt.
Insulate the skirts away from the body with sealing washers from home depot, after you have put self etching primer and a coat of rust bullet/epoxy paint over the drill spot. But dont EVER use sheet metal screws, always stainless bolts/washers and nutsacks.
don_bagz
11-30-2008, 09:58 PM
why cant you just line up the holes to where the wheel guards are screwed to? i mean they are already there.
im talking about the skirts, and there is only 1 hole that is drilled for the stock skirt which is at the bottom.. but, the aftermarket skirts are alot higher than the stock one, so i need to drill a hole to be able to fit the aftermarket skirts..
Yep, mine too.
How hard is it to take a q-tip with some paint on it and go around the edges of a hole you drill to keep rust away then put a rivet in it?
All the double sided tape on my sideskirts eventually fell off/let loose after some hard driving on 100+ deg F days.
rivets!!! there it is.. thats the thing that people use to fasten the over fenders right? thats what i want to get.. thanks. they are available in local hardware store right? or like home depot or somethin
Adheisive such as urethane will eventually crack, seperate and trap in moisture/salt, which will rust really quickly.
You want to have a slight gap between the body and the skirt for water to wash trapped dirty/salt.
Insulate the skirts away from the body with sealing washers from home depot, after you have put self etching primer and a coat of rust bullet/epoxy paint over the drill spot. But dont EVER use sheet metal screws, always stainless bolts/washers and nutsacks.
okay.. i will keep that in mind. thanks alot..
boske
12-01-2008, 09:14 AM
Anyone here ever try heavy duty velcro to hold side skirts? I am planning on using it instead of 3M mounting tape. I will still be bolting around the wheel wells. I have been trying out the idea on my s10 to hold the license plate to the rear window (shaved rear end), so far I have learned that it works best if you use a heat gun on the glued part before you apply it. Other than that its great, the 2" wide strips of velcro hold like crazy and bend my plate if I have to remove it. I'm hoping it works out good, it has a big advantage over mounting tape since you can remove the parts if you need to. If it doesn't last forever it should be easy enough to replace also.
Justin Bernstein
12-01-2008, 09:49 AM
Or you could NOT drill holes in your body and ruin it for the next owner.
Just an idea...
dumb, thanks for nothing.
silpena
12-01-2008, 02:07 PM
Adheisive such as urethane will eventually crack, seperate and trap in moisture/salt, which will rust really quickly.
You want to have a slight gap between the body and the skirt for water to wash trapped dirty/salt.
Insulate the skirts away from the body with sealing washers from home depot, after you have put self etching primer and a coat of rust bullet/epoxy paint over the drill spot. But dont EVER use sheet metal screws, always stainless bolts/washers and nutsacks.
i wasnt talking about urathane adheasives i was talking bonding agents for bonding smc's like qp's, door skims, fiber glass parts. They are and can be as strong as welding to oem specs. AS for the rusting. as long as he doesnt sand off the orginal paint/clear under than shouldnt be an issue. The smc bonding agents are used for door skims and replacing quarter panels and such and he use some seam sealer if hes scared about moisture/salt getting into any defects/cracks.
silpena
12-01-2008, 02:08 PM
Anyone here ever try heavy duty velcro to hold side skirts? I am planning on using it instead of 3M mounting tape. I will still be bolting around the wheel wells. I have been trying out the idea on my s10 to hold the license plate to the rear window (shaved rear end), so far I have learned that it works best if you use a heat gun on the glued part before you apply it. Other than that its great, the 2" wide strips of velcro hold like crazy and bend my plate if I have to remove it. I'm hoping it works out good, it has a big advantage over mounting tape since you can remove the parts if you need to. If it doesn't last forever it should be easy enough to replace also.
never tried it but you test a small area and let us know. I have my doubts but give it a try.
S14DB
12-01-2008, 02:18 PM
Adheisive such as urethane will eventually crack, seperate and trap in moisture/salt, which will rust really quickly.
You want to have a slight gap between the body and the skirt for water to wash trapped dirty/salt.
Insulate the skirts away from the body with sealing washers from home depot, after you have put self etching primer and a coat of rust bullet/epoxy paint over the drill spot. But dont EVER use sheet metal screws, always stainless bolts/washers and nutsacks.
If you use the right stuff it will last forever.
Fusor Automotive Aftermarket Products (http://www.lord.com/Home/ProductsServices/Adhesives/FusorAutomotiveAftermarketProducts/tabid/3398/Default.aspx)
Lotus Elise is put together with this stuff.
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