knock sensor delete

[viperbite]

aight already done my googling and zilvia searching.

basically looking to delete a knock sensor on a stock s14 ka24de.

ive read it takes 1 mega ohm resistor.

just wondering if anyones done it and had any results.

about to go ka-t,

throwing a knock sensor code running like ass and just want to delete the sensor. ive heard the harnesses go bad, the sensors go bad, they lie to you with solid motor mounts sometimes bla bla bla.

anyways. just lookin for a little advise from someone experienced before i breakout the solderin iron.



thanks

[SoguRacing]

just leave it. it can do more help than harm. Is it actually in your way? haha

[viperbite]

just leave it. it can do more help than harm. Is it actually in your way? haha

well its throwing the code right now. ive had several sensors and harnesses go bad and just want to delete the sensor for this build. none of this swapping knock sensor bs.

im pretty sure some tuning piggybacks / stand alones get rid of the knocksensors effectivness. but either way. you can delete just about any non-variable sensor, unlike a mafs or maps, with a resistor. i just dont know how to do a knock sensor. lol

its basically a switch. that when detects knock it changes the resistance level. to tell your ecu to dump fuel. and i want it gone. lolz

[4x4le]

It it were me I would leave it on there. When you do your tune do a knock copy so the fuel and timing maps are the same for knock and normal. You can run a new wire from the sensor all the way to the ecu if your worried about the stock harness. I really like having mine because I have it hooked up to a turbo xs knock light (which is great btw!) and you calibrate it to your engines normal noises so it dont lie to you much if at all.
my $0.02

[viperbite]

It it were me I would leave it on there. When you do your tune do a knock copy so the fuel and timing maps are the same for knock and normal. You can run a new wire from the sensor all the way to the ecu if your worried about the stock harness. I really like having mine because I have it hooked up to a turbo xs knock light (which is great btw!) and you calibrate it to your engines normal noises so it dont lie to you much if at all.
my $0.02



thats not a bad idea at all.

its not my car. the kid just wanted it running right. his ecu was throwing a code and we fixed it tonight. so the resistor worked. it runs great now. :)
if i ka-t ill probably be running either emanage or safc2. and ill have to look into that knock light.

im leaning towards the safc2 because a guy i know who works down here tunes safc2 really well. hes been doing it for years on countless cars. emanage is a whole other ballgame.

[!Zar!]

Hella ghetto...

[viperbite]

Hella ghetto...

perhaps.

its deleted correctly though. lol

[jskateborders]

Personaly if It were my car you were working on, I would be upset that you just took a shortcut instead of actually fixing the problem, especially if i was paying you.

[viperbite]

lol hes not paying me hes a buddy. i dont work on peoples cars for money. and it was his idea lol. he had troubles with knock sensors. and decided to delete it. i just found the right resistor in my box of parts. and installed it lol.

[Om1kron]

care to elaborate, I want to add a knock sensor to my ka, it's not knocking at all and I replaced the sensor so it's harness gremlins I need to deal with, I mean it's not really hard at all to tell if a motor is knocking. It ticks and eventually stops working, the knock sensor didn't detect I needed to replace seals on my engine, the knock sensor didn't detect the leak in the headgasket and thats why I have oil in my coolant and not in my oil pan. The knock sensor was not detecting the oil blowby in my pistons! Quite frankly it's useless on an N/A motor that I daily drive with, and the fact it's throwing a knock code and dumping a shit ton of fuel pisses me off when I go to the pump.

[4x4le]

thats not a bad idea at all.

its not my car. the kid just wanted it running right. his ecu was throwing a code and we fixed it tonight. so the resistor worked. it runs great now. :)
if i ka-t ill probably be running either emanage or safc2. and ill have to look into that knock light.

im leaning towards the safc2 because a guy i know who works down here tunes safc2 really well. hes been doing it for years on countless cars. emanage is a whole other ballgame.

I wouldnt go with either of them because they are piggy backs. I would not use a safc at all and would use an emanage before the safc. At the same time there are other options that are better and cheaper than the emanage.

[viperbite]

care to elaborate, I want to add a knock sensor to my ka, it's not knocking at all and I replaced the sensor so it's harness gremlins I need to deal with, I mean it's not really hard at all to tell if a motor is knocking. It ticks and eventually stops working, the knock sensor didn't detect I needed to replace seals on my engine, the knock sensor didn't detect the leak in the headgasket and thats why I have oil in my coolant and not in my oil pan. The knock sensor was not detecting the oil blowby in my pistons! Quite frankly it's useless on an N/A motor that I daily drive with, and the fact it's throwing a knock code and dumping a shit ton of fuel pisses me off when I go to the pump.

okay... you dont add another knock sensor

what gremlins?

ticks, and then the pistons break or you spin a bearing,

what seals? the headgasket? lool... the only engine seals you have are valve seals, front and rear main seals. and then you have lots of gaskets.

you HAVE oil in the coolant? LOL very VERY bad. blowby on pistons is NORMAL FOR REALLY OLD SHIZZY MOTORS LIK EKAS lol...

jsut get a new motor man...

umm...

I wouldnt go with either of them because they are piggy backs. I would not use a safc at all and would use an emanage before the safc. At the same time there are other options that are better and cheaper than the emanage.

the simplicity of an safc is why i would enjoy it on a half bar boost setup. with maxima mafs or z32 and a small t3 turbo.

anything bigger than 275hp and youre flirting with your ringlands goin out, imo. a ka-t with stock pisonts and 100k mile bottom end wont last 20,000 miles on 300hp or more. mines a street car ill be doing a z31 t3 topmount with a cheap tuning system. ive looked into alot of options, including reburns, and megasquirt. honestly ms isnt all that great. reburns arent feasable for me. and i like being able to change something without reburning an ecu.

so from what ive seen. tested and true. safc tunes are decent for the cash. youre lookin at 200 for an safc. 100 to install it and about 50 for the dynotuning.


edit- and if i do ever build a ka. regardless of power goal turbo or choice or whatever. if i break the engine down and put 1000+ in the motor. i will have an AEM standalone lol

[murda-c]

what about calumsult or nistune?

those can be tuned realtime and you can control timing and other things instead of just fuel.

[viperbite]

what about calumsult or nistune?

those can be tuned realtime and you can control timing and other things instead of just fuel.

the ka is a distributor motor.

someone please tell me how you control timing on a distributor engine...

i need to research more of course. ill look into calumsult and nistune.

[murda-c]

I don't know but if the stock computer can adjust timing depending on fuel grade and engine load and rpm conditions, and you can adjust timing maps with nistune or calumsult, then you can control timing.

[viperbite]

I don't know but if the stock computer can adjust timing depending on fuel grade and engine load and rpm conditions, and you can adjust timing maps with nistune or calumsult, then you can control timing.

on an SR lol. sr's have coilpacks and crankangle sensors.

ka is a distributor motor.

when the ka detects knock it just makes the engine run rich. not retard the ignition timing.

[jdm538]

if your ka has a lot of miles then i doubt it would matter if you did this mod. i know a few people that has done this to thier KA24de. its just a KA unless to plan of going KA-t then i doubt it would hurt to take it off.

[louisdaboois]

the ka is a distributor motor.

someone please tell me how you control timing on a distributor engine...

i need to research more of course. ill look into calumsult and nistune.

hall effect switch. google it.

[Shift-240]

anything bigger than 275hp and youre flirting with your ringlands goin out, imo. a ka-t with stock pisonts and 100k mile bottom end wont last 20,000 miles on 300hp or more.
so from what ive seen. tested and true. safc tunes are decent for the cash. youre lookin at 200 for an safc. 100 to install it and about 50 for the dynotuning.


not sure what kind of ka's you've been dealing with but my track car:

stock ka
new headgasket, arp head and main studs. (just replaced for the hell of it)
t3/t4 safc tuned by yours truely
306whp
162k miles
and been boosted since it was my daily over 35k miles ago.

a good setup, tlc, and a fine tune will set you right and you'll have a strong ka.

[steve shadows]

just leave it. it can do more help than harm. Is it actually in your way? haha


OEM Knock sensors are only a skip away from completely useless, they are there to monitor massive changes in reisistance to prevent full engine failure to completely stock engine.

I can be used a 2nd check to see where there are massive spikes in the resistance but it is in no way something that will save your motor or make or break it if you remove it completely.

However if you do remove it completely I would suggest a full re-tune on a dyno with external knock sensor, ext temp and gas analyzer to insure it is safe

[4x4le]

the ka is a distributor motor.

someone please tell me how you control timing on a distributor engine...

i need to research more of course. ill look into calumsult and nistune.

you can, its adjustible

I like to start out with sr fuel and timing maps on the ka bin file when turboing a ka and then adjusting from there.

[viperbite]

you can, its adjustible

I like to start out with sr fuel and timing maps on the ka bin file when turboing a ka and then adjusting from there.

i know the timing is adjustable by turning the distributor. but im saying when tuning it. it is not variable like the sr is.

the sr adjusts timing when something goes wrong.

the ka cannot. it just dumps more fuel.

[4x4le]

i know the timing is adjustable by turning the distributor. but im saying when tuning it. it is not variable like the sr is.

the sr adjusts timing when something goes wrong.

the ka cannot. it just dumps more fuel.


no thats wrong, I tune nissans, you can adjust the timing through tuning, weather it be a rom tune, a tune with a standalone, or you trying to smooth out the air fuel ratio with a safc (which is going to screw up the timing.)

If the only reason you were going to use one is because you thought the timing is locked, well dont, because the timing is not locked.

[viperbite]

no thats wrong, I tune nissans, you can adjust the timing through tuning, weather it be a rom tune, a tune with a standalone, or you trying to smooth out the air fuel ratio with a safc (which is going to screw up the timing.)

If the only reason you were going to use one is because you thought the timing is locked, well dont, because the timing is not locked.

hmm... i was alwasys under the impression that a distributor engine cannot change the timing without adjusting the distributor.. kk learned something today lol.

thats not the only reason. its a cheap tune. boost is 6 months away so ill be researching months before hand.

any advise / recomendations for me to look into. i know you mensioned nistune and a few others.

i appreciate everyones input here. ive done a fair amount of ka-t research but theres some details mensioned here that will help out alot.

:)

[4x4le]

you dont have to use nistune, there are other options. Emmulators can be expensive and you would need 2 of them but you can get a standard daughter board installed, get a consult cable so you can datalog with one of the free consult programs or you can pay the $40 for nissan datascan. Then you can get one of the free programs like tuner pro and tune your ecu your self. Then when your done you can go to a electronics repair shop with your bin file and have them burn you the chips you need.
An even cheaper method that would be still better than messing with the safc would be to get a standard daughter board ($70) and have someone just change the vq scale for the maf your going to use and the k value for the injectors your going to use and go get your chips burnt. That still isnt the best option but its surely better than a safc and probably cheaper as well. Im sure there are shops that would tune your ecu in Ga in the $400 range too, maybe more expensive than your looking at but still going to make you have more power and longitivity on your engine.