KA doesn't idle :(

[Matej]

Hi everyone!

I'm having a problem with my KA24DE idling, or rather the lack of idling, as it just dies.

The last time the car ran, it ran great, but I haven't been able to drive it in a while, so in the meantime I did some small engine mods.

Among them was the creation of my super-cold-air short ram intake, and the removal of the carbon canister along with its vacuum lines.

What I suspect to be the problem is that I put a breather on where the IACV (am I using the correct term?) would normally hook up to the stock intake.

Does the air running through the IACV at idle need to be metered with the MAFS? I am guessing yes. Can anyone confirm this?

I am rather confident that is the problem, but I'd just like to be 100% sure before I cut a hole into my pretty red coupler.

Thank you for any help!

http://www.matejblahut.com/photo/auto/part/kaidle01.jpg

[murda-c]

Is it metered stock?

[Matej]

That's what I'm trying to find out.

[soreballz]

lolmassiveintakeleak

Breather bad.

[!Zar!]

Yes you need to have it go into your intake.

And what the fuck is going on in your engine bay?

Looks like you hosed it down with motor oil.

And wtf is your intake even going?

[Matej]

lolmassiveintakeleak

Breather bad.
Ok.

Thank you!

Knowledge is (horse)power!


Yes you need to have it go into your intake.

And what the fuck is going on in your engine bay?

Looks like you hosed it down with motor oil.
No it's hosed with ps fluid!

Probably some oil and coolant too though!

Everything leaks!

!!!!!!!!

[Matej]

Ok guys, what's the best way to bond rubber to rubber?


No homoz.

[soreballz]

^Gorilla glue or rubber cement, perhaps?

[Matej]

Alright, I hooked up the IACV to the intake. The motor doesn't seem to sputter violently at idle anymore, but it still slowly dies.

When I took out the carbon canister, I left the two hardlines under the intake open. For some reason I assumed they were both vacuum lines, but I just consulted the manual and it appears that one of them is a purge line.

Now I plan to either plug the purge line, or connect it to the vacuum line. Should that fix my problem?


http://www.matejblahut.com/photo/auto/part/kaidle02.jpg

[HS13KLS]

first..

why did you do all of this?

and second. if you take a vacuum line off you need to plug it..

here is a shot of my motor bay. and i have altima fans. and my intake (i stole the idea from a guy i met in tennesse) and i took all the lines off. and the canister. plugged all the other things under the intake and the hard line to the gas tank.

also, whats going on with your ignition coil? it just flopps around there?(learn from my mistake, dont mount it there like that. just put it on the stock location)

that looks sketchy

and finally..

where exactly is your intake going to?

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o15/schlottachki/_MG_0089.jpg

[Matej]

first..

why did you do all of this?

and second. if you take a vacuum line off you need to plug it..

here is a shot of my motor bay. and i have altima fans. and my intake (i stole the idea from a guy i met in tennesse) and i took all the lines off. and the canister. plugged all the other things under the intake and the hard line to the gas tank.

also, whats going on with your ignition coil? it just flopps around there?(learn from my mistake, dont mount it there like that. just put it on the stock location)

that looks sketchy

and finally..

where exactly is your intake going to?
Well I did it because I wanted to empty the bay a little. No I'm not trying to go all out tucked because I don't have the patience for that, but every little change makes some difference, at least to me. I know most people who go KA-T or SR usually take out the canister anyway, so I know it's not anything essential.

The reason I left the vacuum lines unplugged is because my PAIR lines (the other two hardlines under the intake) have been unplugged for over two years now and it has never been a problem, I even used the PAIR vacuum line for my BOV when I had a KA-T, so I didn't think leaving the canister lines open would be a problem.

I traced the hardline going from the canister all the way to the gas tank and removed the entire thing. I hope I didn't somehow damage or accidentally unplug the fuel lines, which could be causing the motor to die. However I'm pretty confident the fuel lines are fine.

Why do you say my ignition coil could be a problem? It doesn't flop there, it's fastened down. Or are you talking about the actual wire flopping, or is there another reason? Please let me know.

And the intake just sits right behind the radiator next to the fan, sucking in super cool air, haha.

Tomorrow I'll try plugging the two lines, hopefully that'll fix it.

[1slowS13]

if you did that, you might as well take all of your emissions in your engine, like egr and etc. itll make things easier and only leave your FPR and brake booster the only things need vacuum.

also, fuel is probably fine since it has fuel to start up everytime.

also, doesnt air ram through the radiator, which makes it hot, which is right infront of where you located your filter?

[PBucch]

I would pinch all the lines under the TB closed imo.

[Matej]

Alright, I plugged both the lines, and now the motor idles normally.

However, I noticed that my new crank pulley spins lopsidedly, and there's oil pouring from it when the motor is running.

Oh jeeez.

Does anyone know if the face of the Unorthodox pulley is thinner than the stock pulley?
The bolt seems to be in all the way, but it looks as if the pulley wasn't.

I've read about people having a problem with an oil leak after installing a new crank pulley, but I was hoping I wouldn't be one of them.

Time to use the Search button.

[mxsx25]

gotta be your front main seal, easy fix if its bad

[Matej]

gotta be your front main seal, easy fix if its bad
Thanks. That's what it seems like. The pulley was never used but I bought it from someone else and I didn't get a seal with it. Now I'm reading up on them and it seems that the pulley should've came with its own seal that needs to replace the old one.

Should auto parts stores carry the seals, or do I need to order it from somewhere?

[mxexux]

You will probably need to get it from who ever made the pulley since it will most likely be a different size than the stock oil seal.

[Matej]

Ok, I see...

However, the pulley was really wobbly and kept getting worse. It looked as if it was about to fly off before I shut the motor off.

Even if I do need a new seal, I don't think that would have much to do with the wobbliness. Perhaps I need a shorter bolt for it.

[Matej]

Wow, the stock bolt was definitely too long for the new pulley. I bought a shorter bolt at Westlake and the pulley went in a lot further.

It doesn't wobble anymore and so far it doesn't even seem to leak, hopefully it'll stay this way.

Thanks everyone.