View Full Version : SR20: Idle and Throttle Issues
I have a bone stock SR20DET blacktop in my car and i just got the thing to start today.
BUT there seems to be a problem, when i start it and let the fuel pump prime it'll start up and idle nice and calm at around 500rpm to 1000rpm and then it'll die after about 10 seconds like it is starving fuel or air...
also, when i get it started if i attempt to give it throttle it'll do the same thing and just die.
A friend told me it might be my TPS sensor but i wanted to get someone elses opinion before i go drop some more cash on this bitch.
Any input will help.
--ik0n
SoguRacing
10-09-2008, 02:17 AM
check for a vacuum leak or a leak in the intercooler piping. check the maf sensor too. you could be running very rich. you could be right. your pump may be going out.
The pump is brand new, Walbro 255.
I checked it over for leaks, and i have nothing.
How would i adjust it to lean it out if i am running to rich?
SoguRacing
10-09-2008, 02:45 AM
you can't without getting it tuned. when the car idles for those 10 seconds how does it sound? smooth...rough?
it sounds pretty smooth up until it chokes out.
It just dies after about 10 seconds.
SoSideways
10-09-2008, 11:56 AM
Probably a mixture of improper IACV screw setting, or the IACV straight up is shitted out, and maybe the TPS.
Have you tried to pull any codes from the ECU yet?
I just pulled the codes. I had i got what looked like 55. What is that?
SoSideways
10-09-2008, 01:12 PM
Come on...
Look up what 55 is.
In either case, it is either a mechanical problem, or a sensor that's on its way out, but not fully dead yet.
Come on...
Look up what 55 is.
In either case, it is either a mechanical problem, or a sensor that's on its way out, but not fully dead yet.
yeah, i know the search function. And i did look up 55, after i had already posted.
I am going to swap MAF and TPS and see if that gets me anywhere.
drftthatshit
10-09-2008, 04:20 PM
55 means that all the systems are working properly!
55 means that all the systems are working properly!
I know this, but i dont know what else could be the problem..
ideas?
Ok, i fixed the problem... and it wasn't a sensor issue.
I had another problem with my fuel gauge and the float, so when checking upon my fuel pump and sending unit i noticed that the fuel line that ran from pump to unit was just destroyed.
The line that was given to me to use with the pump was clearly not the right line and it had been disintegrated by the fuel.
I believe the only reason i was initially able to start the car was because when i was starting it was letting the fuel pump prime the system for about 3 seconds, allowing it to move enough fuel to start... but once started it would bog because of fuel starvation, same with when i would hit the accelerator. There would be no fuel to deliver and it would just die.
Thank god i didn't order any sensors lol.
--ik0n
SoSideways
10-10-2008, 10:36 AM
In either case, it is either a mechanical problem, or a sensor that's on its way out, but not fully dead yet.
Ok, i fixed the problem... and it wasn't a sensor issue.
I had another problem with my fuel gauge and the float, so when checking upon my fuel pump and sending unit i noticed that the fuel line that ran from pump to unit was just destroyed.
The line that was given to me to use with the pump was clearly not the right line and it had been disintegrated by the fuel.
I believe the only reason i was initially able to start the car was because when i was starting it was letting the fuel pump prime the system for about 3 seconds, allowing it to move enough fuel to start... but once started it would bog because of fuel starvation, same with when i would hit the accelerator. There would be no fuel to deliver and it would just die.
Thank god i didn't order any sensors lol.
--ik0n
I already said that it could be a mechanical issue.
Why would you blindly buy sensors if you haven't checked them out yet? I said they could possibly be going bad, but not completely useless, thus the ECU wouldn't throw codes for it, so you have to manually go and check the sensors with a multimeter, or look over the circuit to make sure nothing's grounding out or shorting out, etc.
Thanks for the help everyone on the old problem. I really appreciate it.
But now there is a new problem, it won't rev past 2k-2.5k (if my tach is accurate lol, i dont believe it is..) but it sputters and backfires at around 2k (i believe this is actually 2.5k)
I am kinda at a loss here.
Sileighty_85
10-16-2008, 10:11 PM
MAF
msglnght
SoguRacing
10-17-2008, 12:17 AM
your maf is probably going out. check it with a multimeter. or get a different one for 50 bucks.
I'll check the maf with a multimeter and borrow a friend of mine's sr maf to see if thats the problem.
So the MAF is bad, and the MAF my friend had turned out to be a SOHC KA MAF... *frustration*
So i need to find a SR20 MAF... 22680 52F00... if anyone reads this and has one for sale, pm me please!
I am posting an ad in the WTB section as well.
Sileighty_85
10-18-2008, 03:52 PM
you can use the SOHC MAF you just need to change the plug
thats the thing, i dont have a plug for it.
EDIT: if i was to modify the sr plug to connect to the KA MAF would it work? like remove the blank plug spot and sand down the top piece off the MAF? it would have to be held on ghetto style... but would it work?
I found a friend of mine had a SOHC plug and gave it to me so i wired it on... everything works great now. Thanks for everyone's help.
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