VQ30/35: If there was a cheaper yet better kit than VQswap.com....

[SinisterSntra91]

How many of you would be interested? I have come up with a design that is an overall better design than "the other guy" IMO. If all goes well, we will be offering it for almost half if not alot cheaper than their kit. From what I have read quality and fitment with "the other guy" has been not so great on their part. I will insure quality and fitment. Please keep in mind for those of you that have seen my build thread there are cheaper and easier ways to do make this motor run in your car, it just depends on what you are trying to achieve.

Here are some pics of my design vs. theirs

Theirs with their custom mounts:
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m292/nismo240r/S14%20Build%20up/S14014.jpg

Mine with stock Nismo R33 Mounts:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b385/SinisterSentra91/S14/IMG_2054.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b385/SinisterSentra91/S14/IMG_2045.jpg

[xplicit240]

Yes i would buy one!

[rb25crazy]

haha, what about wiring??? plug and play =D

[JRas]

I think the big thing for VQ swaps is the electrical/wiring

not so much on engine mounts

[SexPanda]

I'd like to get an old e30 and swap in a vq35.

Tell me that wouldnt be epic. But yeah the wiring is the big thing I hear. I was about to buy an s13 coupe with a vq30 swap, complete "except for the wiring" for 400 bucks... But I realized I suck at wiring, so it was a no go.

[soulsynchromachine]

id get one

[96Turbo]

so.....would we have to send you our crossmember for you to modify?

[thefro526]

so.....would we have to send you our crossmember for you to modify?

that'd be my Main question as well. Would you do a core exchange type deal so that there's not a lot of downtime waiting for the x-member to be modified?

[irax]

let me guess, this is what dave called me about.. *ROLLS EYES* LOL JK DAVE you know I <3 you


I have talked to tones of people that are REALLY interested in the VQ35 swap and the only thing holding them back is wiring.

so unless your kit includes a wiring diagram your sales will be just as lacking as vqswap guys.

you are probably better off doing a wiring guide and then selling it.

[gregfarz78]

I'd buy a x-member from you if the price is right, I bought the vqswap kit a while ago but its their old design where you have to either weld their mounts to the x-member yourself or send it back to them to do it. If you can offer a x-member for $200-300 with core exchange you'd have a winner. Wiring instructions would be nice too but there are a few variations of the VQ engine (rev up, non rev up, hr) so that might be difficult. If you get a complete engine and dash harness wiring doesnt seem like it will be that bad right?

[irax]

I'd buy a x-member from you if the price is right, I bought the vqswap kit a while ago but its their old design where you have to either weld their mounts to the x-member yourself or send it back to them to do it. If you can offer a x-member for $200-300 with core exchange you'd have a winner. Wiring instructions would be nice too but there are a few variations of the VQ engine (rev up, non rev up, hr) so that might be difficult. If you get a complete engine and dash harness wiring doesnt seem like it will be that bad right?

no there is a better way... i'm not going to say more.

[SinisterSntra91]

haha, what about wiring??? plug and play =D

I'd like to get an old e30 and swap in a vq35.

Tell me that wouldnt be epic. But yeah the wiring is the big thing I hear. I was about to buy an s13 coupe with a vq30 swap, complete "except for the wiring" for 400 bucks... But I realized I suck at wiring, so it was a no go.

I think the big thing for VQ swaps is the electrical/wiring

not so much on engine mounts

let me guess, this is what dave called me about.. *ROLLS EYES* LOL JK DAVE you know I <3 you


I have talked to tones of people that are REALLY interested in the VQ35 swap and the only thing holding them back is wiring.

so unless your kit includes a wiring diagram your sales will be just as lacking as vqswap guys.

you are probably better off doing a wiring guide and then selling it.

Well there is a cheaper alternative to wiring up the VQ. This method can be used to run both the VQ30 and the 35. Only thing is with the 35 you wont have the variable valve timing (VVT), it would be disabled. Which from what I have been told that robs you of maybe 15hp.

so.....would we have to send you our crossmember for you to modify?

that'd be my Main question as well. Would you do a core exchange type deal so that there's not a lot of downtime waiting for the x-member to be modified?

Well the idea is to have enough cross members on hand to be able to ship the kit out to you once ordered so there will be no down time. Yes there will be a core charge only to insure we get your old crossmember back.

[gregfarz78]

no there is a better way... i'm not going to say more.

Are you going to share your secrets at some point, I havent sourced any of the wiring yet but I planned on doing that soon or are you planning on selling a kit?

[SinisterSntra91]

Are you going to share your secrets at some point, I havent sourced any of the wiring yet but I planned on doing that soon or are you planning on selling a kit?

I think I know what he is talking about, you run a VQ30 Maxima wiring harness with a reprogrammed ecu. Like JWT or something. As I said before VVT would be disabled on the 35s.

[gregfarz78]

I've read about that but I'm going to try my best to run a 350z ecu and retain the VVT, unless you can squeeze 300whp out of a 35 running a jwt max ecu but I doubt it

[SinisterSntra91]

I've read about that but I'm going to try my best to run a 350z ecu and retain the VVT, unless you can squeeze 300whp out of a 35 running a jwt max ecu but I doubt it

I dont see why you wouldnt be able to, with a couple bolt ons you can probably achieve that. The only way as of right now is to either go through the trouble of wiring in the nats security system or go full standalone and both of those arent for your average swapper and standalone is mass expensive.

[gregfarz78]

Interesting thought I may consider that. Is there any way to use the 350z wiring and just not use the nats security? would it throw a code or go into limp mode?

[exitspeed]

You're talking around $600?

Yes I'd be interested.

Wiring is the only thing that scares me.

[orangejdmsilvia]

an affordable kit, done right.

wiring diagram info.

and you will be golden. i hear alot of people just going stand alone, you pay more but it seems like the easy way out.

[CrimsonRockett]

Take care of the wiring problem and I know of a few people that would bite.

One being myself.

:)

[chairmnofthboard]

I have a stand alone in m S2000 (EMS). I think the stock ECU is better for daily driving, Stand alone is better for big numbers and track. JMHO.

[drift freaq]

I dont see why you wouldnt be able to, with a couple bolt ons you can probably achieve that. The only way as of right now is to either go through the trouble of wiring in the nats security system or go full standalone and both of those arent for your average swapper and standalone is mass expensive.

Ok I have kept my mouth shut on this thread till now. I do not want to rain on sinistersentra's engine mounting concept in his thread either.

I will speak up about the wiring though. Fact is an easy way out which disables the Variable Valve timing is not satisfactory IMO. I will also say that if you do disable it the engine will not pass a smog check.

Lets get down to brass tacks here. The Nats security system is not the hard part of the wiring. There are other modules that are ten times more the problem. If people want to talk to me about it p.m. me.

I will say the whole purpose of doing this swap is the have legal HP. If you can't do the swap and have legal HP then its a waste of time. Why? Your right back in the same boat as doing a SR,KAT,RB etc... That again is my opinion.

Now indeed the wiring is the biggest hurdle to this whole swap. Its also why I do not talk in public a lot about it.

When the wiring is sorted, the swap will be well worth it. Has anyone managed to do the wiring right yet? No, no one in the whole damn country. If someone has, they have not spoken up.

Doing a standalone with these engines is not satisfactory either unless your building a 1000hp plus drag engine.
Otherwise these engines were tuned at the factory with a sophisticated wide band setup that comes stock on the car.

I will say this just to educate people on these ECU's these are not KA or SR style ECU's. Those were like 8086 computers i.e. ran on 512k to 1 meg of ram and barely had enough juice to basically run our engines. On the other hand VQ ECU's and almost all of the ECU's coming in Japanese cars today are pretty like a laptop computer from 4 years ago. Yup they are that powerful.
This is how Nissan and other manufacturers have been able to turn out stock NA engines with fairly good HP ratings combined with refined engine technology.

If you run a standalone its like starting all over in the programming department and a lot of the standalones except for the likes of Haltech among others lack the computational power to tune these engines properly.

In other words these engines are well tuned from the factory and some the best HP upgrades reported in the 350 forums have been on engines that have been reflashed and reflashed by a few companies not a lot.

Thats it in a nutshell and I will sinister good luck on his project.

[chairmnofthboard]

I will say the whole purpose of doing this swap is the have legal HP

I agree, that's the only reason I would do it.

If you run a standalone its like starting all over in the programming department

yes, but all stand alone units have to be tuned. I send mine to Churchs dyno.

[drift freaq]

yes, but all stand alone units have to be tuned. I send mine to Churchs dyno.

Yes, but like I said in my post, these engines come tuned to a high level of efficiency straight from the factory. To date, there has not been a standalone setup on a street engine that has turned out the numbers coming straight from the factory.

The engines that have had better numbers on the street have been Technosqaure ecu reflash engines and engines with a piggyback on the stock ecu. i.e. Greddy emanage.

I will also reiterate again. If your building a racecar i.e. hardcore track or drag then you could work it with a standalone because your changing a lot of internals as well and pushing for completely different types of tune. Though track engines are not street legal and standalone setups are not and will not be street legal.

Which takes me right back to my statement of The whole reason for doing this swap is to have street legal HP in our cars.

I

[chairmnofthboard]

From my experience with stand alones, You can get a bit more HP out of the engine (street or track), you can also set up an exact AFR making it more efficient, but you lose some comfort and driving ease.

Stock ECU's tend to run a bit on the safe side to save warranty issues. Maybe the VQ35DE is a different story.

[drift freaq]

From my experience with stand alones, You can get a bit more HP out of the engine (street or track), you can also set up an exact AFR making it more efficient, but you lose some comfort and driving ease.

Stock ECU's tend to run a bit on the safe side to save warranty issues. Maybe the VQ35DE is a different story.

Indeed it is.Nothing personal but again I refer to my original post. These ECU's are not your fathers SR KA, LS1 ECU's! They are far more sophisticated.

Like I said in my original post these are wideband tuned from the factory and come with stock wideband O2 sensors on the cars among other things.

In fact a LS1 is so simple to wire and reflash the stock ECU to not throw codes its silly.

You would think I would just drop the VQ because of that and the thought crossed my mind. Though I would rather do a VQ because its a great engine and its a Nissan.

Oh and I do not want LS1 people coming in here and shitting all over sinisters thread. This is about VQ's and should stay about VQ's!
I only made the LS1 statement for clarifications sake about the VQ ECU's being much more sophisticated.

[gregfarz78]

Personally I could care less about smog, they aren't as strict in PA as other states like CA I'm going to get classic car tags so that means no emissions testing and only a visual safety inspection. But I agree with drift I would still like a have a legal HP swap and no one in the country yet has done it.

The VQ35 ecu is a different animal its nothing like the ka or sr its very complex and very efficiently tuned from the factory. I see guys on the Z boards with just about every internal and bolt on mod n/a putting down a little over 300whp I mean these guys are spending big money 5k+ and only gaining maybe 50-60hp over stock numbers so that just goes to show how efficient this engine was right off the assembly line.

Drift I see you are also attempting this swap I would love to get your take on the wiring as I have also considered dropping it or going the easier way out and doing a vq30 instead.

[chairmnofthboard]

The only see one reason to go VQ, CA smog! I mean I like the sound, torque and that it's NA. The ease of not worring about smog is what makes it nicest. Otherwise CA, SR or RB25 are great options.

On a side note, the VQ is pretty cheap and seem to be easy to find. That's also nice.

[raen419]

Though I would rather do a VQ because its a great engine and its a Nissan.
Agreed.
My KA is in fantastic condition, and only has about 60k on the clock (came out of a 98 S14, iirc), but I removed the turbo setup (which is FS btw) b/c I wanted N/A power and the ability to pass smog, if I ever need to, b/c though I do live in AL (where we have no smog testing, yet), I'm an engineering major and I can pretty much bet on moving to a state that does smog once I've graduated....plus I'm all for having close to 300rwhp and having a 'clean' running engine for the sake of the environment (though the environment isn't really that high on my list...lol).

I'm all for a simpler/cheaper VQ swap option too. Good thread thus far guys.

[unlegendary]

if you have any family in AL, just register your car in AL and get your car signed off by a police officer every year verifying that you're the owner of that car.

dude if a group of people or an individual had the time and money to make a cheaper, more friendlier, and smog easy VQ350de swap, they would easily take up that market.

[gregfarz78]

Like I said before one way around emissions depending on the state is register the car with classic tags. In PA if the car is older than 15 years you can get classic tags and that means NO emissions testing ever. I'm sure it varies from state to state but its worth looking into with your state's dmv.

[mehsilvia]

SinisterSntra91 -

Nice work on the crossmember.
Back to the original intent of this thread - it would be easier to "judge" your work if we could see a finished product along side the VQSwap one. Or at least a photo of your product at the same angles for comparison. (Just my :2c:)

I am also curious about your hood & steering rack clearances.

And - You are advertising a "kit". What are your plans for the required trany-mount, shifter-linkage and sway-bar spacers?

Also - You might want place emphasis on "mounting kit" so you dont get any more question/commentary about wiring or smog :jerkit:

Your guarantee alone makes this a preferred selection over the VQSwap kit.
Good luck.

[SinisterSntra91]

SinisterSntra91 -

Nice work on the crossmember.
Back to the original intent of this thread - it would be easier to "judge" your work if we could see a finished product along side the VQSwap one. Or at least a photo of your product at the same angles for comparison. (Just my :2c:)

I am also curious about your hood & steering rack clearances.

And - You are advertising a "kit". What are your plans for the required trany-mount, shifter-linkage and sway-bar spacers?

Also - You might want place emphasis on "mounting kit" so you dont get any more question/commentary about wiring or smog :jerkit:

Your guarantee alone makes this a preferred selection over the VQSwap kit.
Good luck.

I know my setup clears the steering rack, what I dont know yet is if it clears the hood. I have set the hood on top of the car and if its going to hit its in the back, so nothing a little modification to the hood wont do. All mounts will be genuine nissan mounts. The trans mount is a S13/S14 mount, the other two on the crossmember are Skyline R33 mounts, which all can be replaced with Nismo versions. From what I can see sway-bar spacers wont be needed, there is one little piece of metal that needs to be grinded off the upper oil pan that goes to nothing in order for the bar to clear. I will test fit and verify. Shifter linkage will be a similar design to vqswap.com only a better fit ( I had to wrestle with the one I got from them in order to get it to fit )

This thread is solely intended to see who is interested in such a kit, there are many ways as I have stated before in this thread to get this motor to work in your vehicle it all depends on what you are comfortable with and willing to spend. I am playing around with ways myself, and I have many ideas. I choose to swap in an entire 350z harness solely for the challenge. So the method of getting it to run is up to you, I just make the swap reasonable and feasible. I am sure there will be plenty of new methods to arise once this swap becomes more common.

[SinisterSntra91]

Ok I have kept my mouth shut on this thread till now. I do not want to rain on sinistersentra's engine mounting concept in his thread either.

I will speak up about the wiring though. Fact is an easy way out which disables the Variable Valve timing is not satisfactory IMO. I will also say that if you do disable it the engine will not pass a smog check.


I am not saying your wrong, but why would it be a problem for the 35 running a reprogrammed 30 ECU to not pass smog? Without the VVT its nothing more than a bored and stroked 30. Any evidence that it wont? Out of curiosity...

[drift freaq]

I am not saying your wrong, but why would it be a problem for the 35 running a reprogrammed 30 ECU to not pass smog? Without the VVT its nothing more than a bored and stroked 30. Any evidence that it wont? Out of curiosity...

Your in Ohio. I am in California. First off running a VQ30 ecu on a 35 engine would not pass the ref or the smog tech. They are not dumb. Second, disabling the power of VVT on a 35 lowers the HP a fair amount.

This has been documented on other forums. Third off they guys on the east coast that ran a VQ30 ecu setup on a 35 were seriously down on power. This is shit that was covered almost two years ago.

Why cripple your engine? Thats what your suggesting doing. Thats just stupidity for stupidities sake.

Its not a question of being wrong its question of not doing something stupid to fix something.
There are smart ways to do things and there are stupid ways. What you suggest above is very unintelligent and ass backwards.

Did you not read what I and Gregfarz78 wrote above the intricacies of these ecu's and how well they are tuned for these engines? You're basically saying why don't you cripple the engine to make it legal. Which it still would not be legal anyways because of what your doing.

There are a lot of codes you would throw as well, if you tossed a VQ30 ECU on a 35 and the guys in on the East coast have documented that as well.
Plus the guys on the East coast jury rigged a bunch of other stuff as well and they brag about being the best wiring guys for the engine in the country. LOL

Do you want me to give you any more reasons why its just a dumb idea?

Please either do the research or start using your brain or both.

[SinisterSntra91]

Your in Ohio. I am in California. First off running a VQ30 ecu on a 35 engine would not pass the ref or the smog tech. They are not dumb. Second, disabling the power of VVT on a 35 lowers the HP a fair amount.

This has been documented on other forums. Third off they guys on the east coast that ran a VQ30 ecu setup on a 35 were seriously down on power. This is shit that was covered almost two years ago.

Why cripple your engine? Thats what your suggesting doing. Thats just stupidity for stupidities sake.

Its not a question of being wrong its question of not doing something stupid to fix something.
There are smart ways to do things and there are stupid ways. What you suggest above is very unintelligent and ass backwards.

Did you not read what I and Gregfarz78 wrote above the intricacies of these ecu's and how well they are tuned for these engines? You're basically saying why don't you cripple the engine to make it legal. Which it still would not be legal anyways because of what your doing.

There are a lot of codes you would throw as well, if you tossed a VQ30 ECU on a 35 and the guys in on the East coast have documented that as well.
Plus the guys on the East coast jury rigged a bunch of other stuff as well and they brag about being the best wiring guys for the engine in the country. LOL

Do you want me to give you any more reasons why its just a dumb idea?

Please either do the research or start using your brain or both.

Hey pal go take your sunshine pill and put on a smile I simply asked why it wouldnt work. I didnt say you were wrong I had just heard of this method being used, but I didnt hear of any down side to using it. The guys who do the VQ35 swap in their B15 use this method and I didnt hear of any complaints. So next time you want to go and make a personal attack on my intelligence, read the freakin post first and you will see I asked for reasons I never questioned your knowledge.

PS: I didnt say it was the best method, I said its a method. As I stated multiple times in this post there are many ways to get this engine to RUN in your vehicle I did not say it was the best. If I thought it was the best do you think I would be going through the trouble of using a full 350z harness in my 240? And since you know so much, why dont you educate us on what is the best method to use since you have done nothing but shoot down the other methods....

In the end I asked who would be interested in the mounting kit, wiring is a different animal. Its like when you build a house you have people who specialize in the structure and someone who does the electric. I do the structure, who ever does the electric is up to the buyer, not me.

[chairmnofthboard]

Let's all be mature here.

If you don't use the VVT you will lose top end, by a lot. If you always engage the VVT you will not idle or have low end. The car will most likely just stall.

What's the problem with using the 350Z ECU & Harness? Can't that be done?

[SinisterSntra91]

Let's all be mature here.

If you don't use the VVT you will lose top end, by a lot. If you always engage the VVT you will not idle or have low end. The car will most likely just stall.

What's the problem with using the 350Z ECU & Harness? Can't that be done?

NATS security is the biggest thing, the BCM has to see a signal from it for the ecu to engage and the car to start. So yes it can be used there just needs to be a method to bypass all of that.

[chairmnofthboard]

I'm not very familiar with the 350Z's. BCM?

Can't you just use the ignition out of the 350Z to bypass the security?

That's how they do S2000's. They change the ECU and Ignition, or have the Ignition/key reprogramed by the dealer.

[SinisterSntra91]

I'm not very familiar with the 350Z's. BCM?

Can't you just use the ignition out of the 350Z to bypass the security?

That's how they do S2000's. They change the ECU and Ignition, or have the Ignition/key reprogramed by the dealer.

Body control module, the BCM has to see a signal from a valid chipped key in the ignition then it sends a signal to the ECU to go ahead and start. Yes you can do that, but the wiring for that is not for your average joe.

[drift freaq]

Hey pal go take your sunshine pill and put on a smile I simply asked why it wouldnt work. I didnt say you were wrong I had just heard of this method being used, but I didnt hear of any down side to using it. The guys who do the VQ35 swap in their B15 use this method and I didnt hear of any complaints. So next time you want to go and make a personal attack on my intelligence, read the freakin post first and you will see I asked for reasons I never questioned your knowledge.

PS: I didnt say it was the best method, I said its a method. As I stated multiple times in this post there are many ways to get this engine to RUN in your vehicle I did not say it was the best. If I thought it was the best do you think I would be going through the trouble of using a full 350z harness in my 240? And since you know so much, why dont you educate us on what is the best method to use since you have done nothing but shoot down the other methods....

In the end I asked who would be interested in the mounting kit, wiring is a different animal. Its like when you build a house you have people who specialize in the structure and someone who does the electric. I do the structure, who ever does the electric is up to the buyer, not me.

Ah excuse me, but you have proposed bad ideas several times. I am not the only here that pointed that out. You asked and I answered, if you can't take truth and the heat then get the hell out of the kitchen.

You think I felt you said I was wrong? Wow you assume a lot out of my post. All I did was point out the problems with the idea and the stupidity of it. That was not me thinking you said I was wrong. It was me pointing out the pointlessness of the ideas.

I never felt you were questioning my knowledge and nor does my post in anyway state that. It does state the reasons why the ideas you put forth were not that good.

If you took it as a personal attack on your intelligence well, maybe you should read your own post again and mine. You put out an idea that sucked and I called it a stupid idea.
Did I say you were stupid? Not directly. I said your idea was stupid and asked you to use your brain, implying that your not stupid but were not thinking therefor acting stupid. Brilliant people sometimes do dumb things. I was asking you to think harder rather than making dumb assumptions.



I said I would not say anything about your mounting kit. I have not. You put out ideas about wiring that were less than satisfactory.
When I post I post things that have been researched. You do not see me putting out ideas randomly unless I have researched them. That is the way I post.

It has nothing to do with feeling challenged by someone intelligence wise. It does have to do with me striving for facts and the best information and research that can be found or done.

I do not mince words if someone puts out a a dumb or stupid Idea I will state that. Unfortunately a lot of people can't handle that. Unfortunately its a bad habit of mine. I tell it like it is.


P.S. Yes you started this thread for opinions about your mounting kit ideas. Though you threw out a lot of ideas about wiring that a lot of us had information or opinions about. If you did not want that side discussed you should have said... "This is about my mount kit ideas not about wiring, so lets keep the discussion to the kit".

You did not do that though. Hence the wiring discussion which you then yourself actively encouraged. Like I said earlier if you can't stand the heat then get out of the kitchen. I.E. don't express ideas and not expect debate or criticism.

Oh and by the way the BCM is for functions that are non engine related in the other electrical parts of the 350Z or G35 or any new Nissan. Its basically a diagnostic code register device. The ECU wants to see it in the system and when it does not it throws a code. The ECU also looks for the CAN network and the Nats. When it sees the CAN network it sees the NATs which is what sees the valid chipped key and gives the start signal, at which point it allows the ignition signal to fire the engine.

[SinisterSntra91]

Ah excuse me, but you have proposed bad ideas several times. I am not the only here that pointed that out. You asked and I answered, if you can't take truth and the heat then get the hell out of the kitchen.

You think I felt you said I was wrong? Wow you assume a lot out of my post. All I did was point out the problems with the idea and the stupidity of it. That was not me thinking you said I was wrong. It was me pointing out the pointlessness of the ideas.

I never felt you were questioning my knowledge and nor does my post in anyway state that. It does state the reasons why the ideas you put forth were not that good.

If you took it as a personal attack on your intelligence well, maybe you should read your own post again and mine. You put out an idea that sucked and I called it a stupid idea.
Did I say you were stupid? Not directly. I said your idea was stupid and asked you to use your brain, implying that your not stupid but were not thinking therefor acting stupid. Brilliant people sometimes do dumb things. I was asking you to think harder rather than making dumb assumptions.



I said I would not say anything about your mounting kit. I have not. You put out ideas about wiring that were less than satisfactory.
When I post I post things that have been researched. You do not see me putting out ideas randomly unless I have researched them. That is the way I post.

It has nothing to do with feeling challenged by someone intelligence wise. It does have to do with me striving for facts and the best information and research that can be found or done.

I do not mince words if someone puts out a a dumb or stupid Idea I will state that. Unfortunately a lot of people can't handle that. Unfortunately its a bad habit of mine. I tell it like it is.


P.S. Yes you started this thread for opinions about your mounting kit ideas. Though you threw out a lot of ideas about wiring that a lot of us had information or opinions about. If you did not want that side discussed you should have said... "This is about my mount kit ideas not about wiring, so lets keep the discussion to the kit".

You did not do that though. Hence the wiring discussion which you then yourself actively encouraged. Like I said earlier if you can't stand the heat then get out of the kitchen. I.E. don't express ideas and not expect debate or criticism.

Oh and by the way the BCM is for functions that are non engine related in the other electrical parts of the 350Z or G35 or any new Nissan. Its basically a diagnostic code register device. The ECU wants to see it in the system and when it does not it throws a code. The ECU also looks for the CAN network and the Nats. When it sees the CAN network it sees the NATs which is what sees the valid chipped key and gives the start signal, at which point it allows the ignition signal to fire the engine.

I didnt say the BCM was engine related, I said it has to be present for the car to start because it is where the NATS C/U is located. Are you done flexing your knowledge on the wiring aspect of this swap? because I would like to get my thread back on topic of what it was originally started for. AGAIN and AGAIN I will say there are many ways to get the engine to run how you do it is up to YOU.

[gregfarz78]

Hey pal go take your sunshine pill and put on a smile I simply asked why it wouldnt work. I didnt say you were wrong I had just heard of this method being used, but I didnt hear of any down side to using it. The guys who do the VQ35 swap in their B15 use this method and I didnt hear of any complaints. So next time you want to go and make a personal attack on my intelligence, read the freakin post first and you will see I asked for reasons I never questioned your knowledge.

Thats not completely true the guy who's been swapping VQs into b15s for years now doesn't use a VQ30 ecu I'm pretty sure the VVT remains intact the wiring is all custom parts of the QR harness is wired into the VQ harness. His name is trav4011 on b15sentra.net check out some of his work, I actually bought my coupe off him.

[SinisterSntra91]

Thats not completely true the guy who's been swapping VQs into b15s for years now doesn't use a VQ30 ecu I'm pretty sure the VVT remains intact the wiring is all custom parts of the QR harness is wired into the VQ harness. His name is trav4011 on b15sentra.net check out some of his work, I actually bought my coupe off him.

Then he has since changed his setup, I remember when he first did the swap that is what he did, I can dig up the thread if you dont believe me. I know who the guy is he is on that forum and other sentra related forums. If he did change it up its because he found better ways to do it, which is going to happen alot with this newer type swap. I am aiming to make this swap more accessible, if I can do that there will be more people who will get into doing this swap and therefore more minds working together to find easier methods of making this motor run.

[gregfarz78]

Then he has since changed his setup, I remember when he first did the swap that is what he did, I can dig up the thread if you dont believe me. I know who the guy is he is on that forum and other sentra related forums. If he did change it up its because he found better ways to do it, which is going to happen alot with this newer type swap. I am aiming to make this swap more accessible, if I can do that there will be more people who will get into doing this swap and therefore more minds working together to find easier methods of making this motor run.

I believe you but he's changed a lot since the first swap he's become pretty efficient with doing vq swaps in sentras he even figured out how to have a working speedo and a/c. I'll probably be talking to him at some point to get some tips.

[xxtokesxx]

drift freaq,

There is a difference between telling things how it is to be constructive, and helpful, and being an asshat because you can retain knowledge expressed on a forum previously. The "heat" that you are bringing in itself is unnessary, off topic and lastly downright disrespectful. There are other ways of presenting ideas that you apparently know are better rather than yap your jaw to intentionally bring someone down, and then defend yourself about it when your clearly being an instigator. There is a difference between constructive debate, and argument - as there is between constructive criticism, and arrogant denigration.

There is a potential here (especially with the help of other interested forum members) to do good things. For what its worth, this thread isn't restricted to the vq35 option ONLY... so there IS a point in creating the mount kits aside from the wiring... why? Because there are other fucking VQ series motors... So it applies to the Vq30, the Vq30det, and the vq35.

You are so quick to judge and point fingers that you missed the point of the thread. To create a mount kit for the VQ series. Chew on some ice, calm down get collected, and let's ALL work together to do good things, rather than discuss the wiring issues with YOUR swap and discredit my friend, especially when he is just trying to provide a different foundation for the more bluegrass oriented people with these cars.

Damn.
Tokes

[drift freaq]

drift freaq,

There is a difference between telling things how it is to be constructive, and helpful, and being an asshat because you can retain knowledge expressed on a forum previously. The "heat" that you are bringing in itself is unnessary, off topic and lastly downright disrespectful. There are other ways of presenting ideas that you apparently know are better rather than yap your jaw to intentionally bring someone down, and then defend yourself about it when your clearly being an instigator. There is a difference between constructive debate, and argument - as there is between constructive criticism, and arrogant denigration.

There is a potential here (especially with the help of other interested forum members) to do good things. For what its worth, this thread isn't restricted to the vq35 option ONLY... so there IS a point in creating the mount kits aside from the wiring... why? Because there are other fucking VQ series motors... So it applies to the Vq30, the Vq30det, and the vq35.

You are so quick to judge and point fingers that you missed the point of the thread. To create a mount kit for the VQ series. Chew on some ice, calm down get collected, and let's ALL work together to do good things, rather than discuss the wiring issues with YOUR swap and discredit my friend, especially when he is just trying to provide a different foundation for the more bluegrass oriented people with these cars.

Damn.
Tokes

Ah excuse me, I purely stated facts about wiring, that I have learned myself because he posed ideas about wiring. It was not matter of shoving shit down hist throat or being arrogant about it. In fact I was just blatantly matter of fact. It was not a question of yapping my Jaw, to use your own words. Its a question of a desire to see correct information put out there instead of incorrect information. Fact is the way he presented ideas was completely misleading and would have lead some people down the wrong road. I am supposed to sit back and let him do that? Rather than correct him so people have better info? Who the fuck are you? Sinister has a little more time here than you, he does contribute as do I. I don't see you contributing so why don't you keep your mouth shut?

This is another case of a douche bag friend trying to step in and defend a debate when he should just be shutting his mouth because he does not know what the hell he is even talking about.

I am not and have not been judging here. I have been pointing poor ideas being poor and improperly worded statements being stated. I.E. his BCM comment which if I had let slide would have misinformed someone else about the swap and made them look stupid.

Oh but no I can't help other people learn stuff because it might offend your friend because he posted misinformation.
At least he was willing to come back and admit he improperly worded his sentence, which would have lead to the spread of misinformation if I had not corrected it.
This has nothing to be with me being a instigator because I was not. Your friend called me out to explain why certain things would not work after he posted old out of date info that was not a good idea.
Yet instead of saying gee I did not think about that you might be right. He rose to defend his ego, just because I told him he was acting stupidly and I even stated to use his brain i.e. meaning I felt he had more intelligence than he was using to state his idea's. Thats actually a compliment.

It has nothing to do with me flexing my knowledge. It has to do with someone posting bad information and people like me coming in a correcting it. Why because this forum strives to see right information rather than wrong information.
That's doing a service for people. Now You come out of the blue all trying to defend him, when you do not even know the full story.

I am going to do him a big favor here. See I know a major mistake he has made on his wiring. Why do I know it? Because he bought the NATs,BCM.IPDM(2007 can network module) underdash harness and ignition from the person I bought my HR motor. Yet his is going to try and run that with a DE engine.
Its not going to work. Nissan changed the underdash module and wiring setup for the HR engine. People have tried to swap the HR engine into a earlier non HR chassis and had to change those parts to make it work.

Now before you go say I am flexing my knowledge, this is actually about helping him before he makes a big mistake. I.E. wiring that stuff into his chassis and then not being able to start his engine due to incompatibility.

Yes I use my knowledge to let people know things and do things better. That's one of the major points of having knowledge, to be able to give it to others so they don't make mistakes. Now If you want to sit around and let people spout bad ideas and proven wrong information as fact ? Well you can, but see I can't because that makes the forum look lame.

Oh and if you really want to turn the conversation back to mounts. Look at my sig. I am doing a lot more than just talking or researching and learning the wiring.
I have done Sinister the service of respecting his ideas about his mount setup because he is proposing a business venture around them. If you managed to go back and study the archives of this forum, you will discover that I am indeed working in the same area aka mount design.

I have openly said I would not discuss the mounts out of public respect for people in the business of fabrication.
Now why don't you just shut your mouth and stay out of this, because you are taking this way too personally.

[gregfarz78]

I am going to do him a big favor here. See I know a major mistake he has made on his wiring. Why do I know it? Because he bought the NATs,BCM.IPDM(2007 can network module) underdash harness and ignition from the person I bought my HR motor. Yet his is going to try and run that with a DE engine.
Its not going to work. Nissan changed the underdash module and wiring setup for the HR engine. People have tried to swap the HR engine into a earlier non HR chassis and had to change those parts to make it work.

None of the varaitions of VQ are really interchangable non rev-up, rev-up, or hr thats why you don't see 03/04 guys swapping in hr motors or heads its waaaaay too much work I think even the block is different. IMO best bet with this swap is buy a 350z front clip that way you have everything that came from the same car, or you have to be very careful peicing it together.

I'd like to see the arguments to a minimum, this is still a fairly new swap we should all be sharing information so this can become the next SR swap a few years from now.

drift your link brings me to a blank page :confused:

[raen419]

I clicked drift freaq's link as well, and got the error message, but after fixing the web address as it appears in my Firefox bar, it worked (autoilluminati (http://www.autoilluminati.com/))

Now, going back the mounting.
If OP would post more accurate comparison pics of his mounting idea versus VQswap.com's, I'd greatly appreciate it. This swap is a long way off for me b/c I have more important priorities right now, but all kinda of good info is greatly appreciated...and documented.

Good thread guys, just keep it civil.

[racepar1]

My only concerns with ANY mounting "kit" are:

1- hood clearence

There is absolutely no reason that you should have to modify the hood to get this motor to fit. The VQ is no longer (in length) than the KA and is also shorter (in heighth).

2- no crossmember spacers

I have seen some people spacing the crossmembers down to get the engine lower. This is an insanely stupid idea as it screws up the suspension geometry even worse than it already was on a lowered car. BTW I have seen no evidence that the OP intends to space the member down this is just a general comment.

3- driveshaft angle

I am concerned with the motor being either too low or too high and screwing up the driveshaft angle as a result. This will wear the u-joints MUCH faster and eat up a few extra hp.


Sinistersentra: If you really want people to comment on your kit you need to do more than just take pics of an un-finished x-member. We need pics and measurements of EVERYTHING (at least I do). I would be extremely interested in the kit, but there is no way in hell I would purchase ANYBODY'S kit without getting every single last bit of info on the engine clearence and positioning. BTW you never stated what engine the x-member pictured is for. FWD vq30, FWD vq35, RWD vq30 (I think they came in pathfinders), or RWD vq35? IMO the vq30's and any of the FWD engines are a waste of time, the RWD vq35 is an immensely better engine (in stock form). Post up more pics and measurements of the engine position and clearence please.

As for the wiring, drift freaq is right. If you half ass the wiring job you will get half ass results. What is the point of that? If you don't intend to get the motor running to 100% of it's factory potential and smoggable in ANY state then why even waste the time and money? You can drop a pretty damn hot SR in for the same money and MUCH less time. There are however more than one way to skin the wiring cat correctly. You can either do a full wiring swap or get into some serious electronic trickery, that is as far as I will get into that though. Sinistersentra the comments made in this paragraph are not directed towards you in any way, just general observations and comments.

[xxtokesxx]

Ah excuse me, I purely stated facts about wiring, that I have learned myself because he posed ideas about wiring. It was not matter of shoving shit down hist throat or being arrogant about it. In fact I was just blatantly matter of fact. It was not a question of yapping my Jaw, to use your own words. Its a question of a desire to see correct information put out there instead of incorrect information. Fact is the way he presented ideas was completely misleading and would have lead some people down the wrong road. I am supposed to sit back and let him do that? Rather than correct him so people have better info? Who the fuck are you? Sinister has a little more time here than you, he does contribute as do I. I don't see you contributing so why don't you keep your mouth shut?
You are blowing things way out of proportion... Nobody said you have to sit back and do nothing... the simple fact is - just because you have done something doesn't give you the God given right to belittle others because they are doing something different. If its wrong, do your good for the commun and share a fact... don't go beligerently attacking them in a different thread because of it. I'm just one of the people that is aiding with the research and production of the mounts, and the person who is inputting on some of the developement on a cheaper vq turbo kit, and the person that is putting his vq30det into an american s14.
This is another case of a douche bag friend trying to step in and defend a debate when he should just be shutting his mouth because he does not know what the hell he is even talking about.
Wrong. Call me whatever you like, but I am not defending any points at all, read what I said - I'm only talking about you being a disrespectful ass. Its the case of another big headed forumer induced by tenor who thinks because he has forum years on his belt that him and his ideas are more valuable than a diamond studded white rhino dropping. There are people here that have more experience than you, but don't act out like you do... you're old enough to know what being cordial and what being respectful is.
I am not and have not been judging here. I have been pointing poor ideas being poor and improperly worded statements being stated. I.E. his BCM comment which if I had let slide would have misinformed someone else about the swap and made them look stupid.
Oh but no I can't help other people learn stuff because it might offend your friend because he posted misinformation.
At least he was willing to come back and admit he improperly worded his sentence, which would have lead to the spread of misinformation if I had not corrected it.
This has nothing to be with me being a instigator because I was not. Your friend called me out to explain why certain things would not work after he posted old out of date info that was not a good idea.
Yet instead of saying gee I did not think about that you might be right. He rose to defend his ego, just because I told him he was acting stupidly and I even stated to use his brain i.e. meaning I felt he had more intelligence than he was using to state his idea's. Thats actually a compliment.
Keep telling yourself that... nobody said there is anything wrong with correcting information... stop typing up sarcastic short stories to disprove what my point is - and to reiterate - you don't have to carry yourself on a clydesdale and be a trigger happy narcisist everytime you have an oppurtunity to provide good hand first hand information. Crapping on someone because they have a different idea isn't helping. If you want to share ,then do it... that is great thing... Stop sugarcoating the bad antics. I have a lot of first hand information on different things, but I don't go out of my way to praise myself and/or shit on others just to share my info. - I just do it - case closed.
It has nothing to do with me flexing my knowledge. It has to do with someone posting bad information and people like me coming in a correcting it. Why because this forum strives to see right information rather than wrong information.
That's doing a service for people. Now You come out of the blue all trying to defend him, when you do not even know the full story.
Just because I've not been registered here long doesn't mean I don't know what a forum is and its premis. I was not, and still am not defending any single point, what was wrong, what was not, I don't care - whatever... So, I don't know where you're getting that from. Secondly, I know the whole story, I've been following the threads, I talk to the OP multiple times every single day... We have been building cars for a few years now, we are working on developing parts of this kit as we speak. So you are wrong - the novel and the cliff notes are in my back pocket.
I am going to do him a big favor here. See I know a major mistake he has made on his wiring. Why do I know it? Because he bought the NATs,BCM.IPDM(2007 can network module) underdash harness and ignition from the person I bought my HR motor. Yet his is going to try and run that with a DE engine.
Its not going to work. Nissan changed the underdash module and wiring setup for the HR engine. People have tried to swap the HR engine into a earlier non HR chassis and had to change those parts to make it work.
Now before you go say I am flexing my knowledge, this is actually about helping him before he makes a big mistake. I.E. wiring that stuff into his chassis and then not being able to start his engine due to incompatibility.
Yes I use my knowledge to let people know things and do things better. That's one of the major points of having knowledge, to be able to give it to others so they don't make mistakes. Now If you want to sit around and let people spout bad ideas and proven wrong information as fact ? Well you can, but see I can't because that makes the forum look lame.
Oh and if you really want to turn the conversation back to mounts. Look at my sig. I am doing a lot more than just talking or researching and learning the wiring.
I have done Sinister the service of respecting his ideas about his mount setup because he is proposing a business venture around them. If you managed to go back and study the archives of this forum, you will discover that I am indeed working in the same area aka mount design.
I have openly said I would not discuss the mounts out of public respect for people in the business of fabrication.
Now why don't you just shut your mouth and stay out of this, because you are taking this way too personally.
I'm not taking anything personally at all... But the fact of the matter is you assume way too much. & you aren't doing ANYONE a favor... Why?

---1) yes he has the 07 harness... but has the full 04 fkn harness and module sitting at the shop as well... instruments, coded keys, +++, ask him!

--- 2) Again, this thread isn't about the cot damn wiring.... it's about the freeking interest in the MOUNTING KIT, which you said that YOU AREN'T INTERESTED IN, because you clicked that on the pole.

--- 3) If your not interested in the kit... Why are you posting.

--- 4) "If there is a more readily affordable/available kit to MOUNT the motor in the car.... more people will want to swap it." In turn, more people will take time to research the wiring. "If you can't mount it cheaply, people won't research how to wire it... out of sight out of mind." Why do you think SR swaps are so damn popular?...

You didn't keep your mouth shut long enough... I just can't stand people that enjoy seeing themselves type for GP, instead of being constructive. You are the one who is typing me a storybook on what you have done, how much of a help you are to the commun, how much you know, why you are such a blessing, and how much of a "service" you are alwhile, the only thing I told you is that you're disrespectful... and patronizing- which you are. If you are concerned about doing the commun a favor then just do it - instead of going out of you way to do the opposite, and then trying to prove otherwise.

See I can write a novel too... All in all, good luck with your build. :aw:

[Bushido]

drift freaq turns another potentially educating and interesting thread into another pissing match.

what a surprise.

is anyone else as sick of this guy as I am?


sinistersentra, good work on the engine mounts, i'm eagerly awaiting more info, like the points that racepar1 brought up.
I've checked out your build thread and your attention to detail is very impressive. Judging by what you have done so far, I have faith in you producing a quality kit.
Keep us posted with your project and your plans of selling the kit.. There are many of us that appreciate what you are doing!

[SinisterSntra91]

My only concerns with ANY mounting "kit" are:

1- hood clearence

There is absolutely no reason that you should have to modify the hood to get this motor to fit. The VQ is no longer (in length) than the KA and is also shorter (in heighth).

2- no crossmember spacers

I have seen some people spacing the crossmembers down to get the engine lower. This is an insanely stupid idea as it screws up the suspension geometry even worse than it already was on a lowered car. BTW I have seen no evidence that the OP intends to space the member down this is just a general comment.

3- driveshaft angle

I am concerned with the motor being either too low or too high and screwing up the driveshaft angle as a result. This will wear the u-joints MUCH faster and eat up a few extra hp.


Sinistersentra: If you really want people to comment on your kit you need to do more than just take pics of an un-finished x-member. We need pics and measurements of EVERYTHING (at least I do). I would be extremely interested in the kit, but there is no way in hell I would purchase ANYBODY'S kit without getting every single last bit of info on the engine clearence and positioning. BTW you never stated what engine the x-member pictured is for. FWD vq30, FWD vq35, RWD vq30 (I think they came in pathfinders), or RWD vq35? IMO the vq30's and any of the FWD engines are a waste of time, the RWD vq35 is an immensely better engine (in stock form). Post up more pics and measurements of the engine position and clearence please.

As for the wiring, drift freaq is right. If you half ass the wiring job you will get half ass results. What is the point of that? If you don't intend to get the motor running to 100% of it's factory potential and smoggable in ANY state then why even waste the time and money? You can drop a pretty damn hot SR in for the same money and MUCH less time. There are however more than one way to skin the wiring cat correctly. You can either do a full wiring swap or get into some serious electronic trickery, that is as far as I will get into that though. Sinistersentra the comments made in this paragraph are not directed towards you in any way, just general observations and comments.

Thanks for your feedback. I understand your concerns. I will do my best to explain accordingly.

1. I would have to dissagree with your statement. I will say the VQ is definitely taller than the KA. I know this because I have seen both motors. The VQ in my car is sitting a little less than a half inch off the crossmember and it seems to be hitting my S15 hood a little near the back. The VQ35 is massive compared to the KA.

2. No crossmember spacers will be required for this swap unless you are really that uncomfortable with having to modify the hood to clear.

3. I have made a jig using a laser pen from what I can see the angle of the drive shaft is not level but it is not far off from the rear differential. I cant see the slight angle that it sits on being a problem.

I posted up pictures of my crossmember vs theirs because that is where the main difference is going to be. The trans crossmember and shifter re location bracket will be different but only slightly. It was mainly posted up to see if duplicating the kit would be worth my time. There seems to be enough interest so I will continue with my development and I will have pictures up of the finished product very soon.

As far as drift freaq goes, I understand the point he is trying to get across. Which is why I am going through the trouble of putting a full 350z harness in my 240sx because I could not agree more that if your going to do it do it right. Thats how I feel about anything. I will not sell this kit to anyone and till I am absolutely positive that I am satisfied with it. Point of it all is that I am providing the means of getting this motor into your vehicle not the wiring. Instead of offering ideas on how the wiring may be done he is shooting down every alternative. For someone who seems to have all the answers he offers nothing to back up his claims. I know more about this swap than he thinks I do. I just dont personally try to put my nuts on peoples chins with my vq knowledge.

So drift freaq its time to put up or shut up. If you have answers then back up your claims. If you dont then get the hell out of my thread because your so called community do-gooding is accomplishing nothing if you have no information to offer. As stated before you have already voted that you are not interested. So either back up your claims and turn over the information you are supposedly so eager to share with everyone or STFU and leave the thread. Its that simple.

[mikesparks]

this is getting out of hand

[gregfarz78]

I'm not sure exact measurements but the VQ is taller than the KA, the kicker is the intake plenum on the VQ.

[chairmnofthboard]

3. I have made a jig using a laser pen from what I can see the angle of the drive shaft is not level but it is not far off from the rear differential. I cant see the slight angle that it sits on being a problem.

Most trans or diffs are offset. The driveline is never a straight shot, if it was the u-joints/CV joints would dry up and break. Even my S2000 has the pumpkin one inch off to one side.

Just a heads up. good luck.

[irax]

honestly I seriously would be interested in a swap kit that ISN'T a rehash of the other kit. your just making the same thing and charging less...

[SinisterSntra91]

Most trans or diffs are offset. The driveline is never a straight shot, if it was the u-joints/CV joints would dry up and break. Even my S2000 has the pumpkin one inch off to one side.

Just a heads up. good luck.

Yeah I realized that when messing around with the mounting. There is no way to line the trans up spot on with the diff.

honestly I seriously would be interested in a swap kit that ISN'T a rehash of the other kit. your just making the same thing and charging less...

Its not the same kit at all, its a totally different design. Let me get some pics of the final product as was requested by another forum member then you can decide for yourself. Thanks for the feedback guys, by all means keep the suggestions and comments coming.

[ESmorz]

So much god damn drama.

All the dude was asking was for you to participate in his poll, look at his shit, and pass along some comments and suggestions... Not turn this into personal attacks and vq knowledge pissing contest hour.

[irax]

Its not the same kit at all, its a totally different design. Let me get some pics of the final product as was requested by another forum member then you can decide for yourself. Thanks for the feedback guys, by all means keep the suggestions and comments coming.

I would love to see the final product, but if your still offering a modified stock cross member and trans member, and shifter bracket, it's not too much different than the other kit.

[Bushido]

what would be different is that his kit would presumably be quality.

i've seen the vqsqap.com kit, and it's anything but quality.

[racepar1]

I would love to see the final product, but if your still offering a modified stock cross member and trans member, and shifter bracket, it's not too much different than the other kit.

The big difference is that his kit uses stock nissan engine and trans mounts. That is a very good thing. I have personally seen the mount brackets that vqswap.com makes for the engine and they are cheezy as fuck! There is no way around the shifter bracket and trans crossmember, you HAVE to change those out no matter what. The crossmember is no big deal to change and I like that this kit uses the stock engine mount brackets on the motor.

[raen419]

The crossmember is no big deal to change and I like that this kit uses the stock engine mount brackets on the motor.
I do as well. Using stock parts on a motor swap is what makes the SR swap such a big deal for this community, the 1.8 a big swap for Miatas w/ a 1.6, and obviously the RB swaps for Skylines and such.

Didn't someone some time ago use a KA/SR tranny mount/k-member flipped upside down to help mount the VQ's 6spd?

[gregfarz78]

what would be different is that his kit would presumably be quality.

i've seen the vqsqap.com kit, and it's anything but quality.

The vqswap.com kit is fine welds aren't shitty or anything but the major problem with that kit is price I mean give me a break $1200 for a custom x-member, trans mount, and shifter relocator? I bought the vqswap.com kit but only b/c I got it less than half price otherwise I would've made my own. I don't see why realistically sinister couldn't offer a welded x-member for under $500.

[gregfarz78]

I do as well. Using stock parts on a motor swap is what makes the SR swap such a big deal for this community, the 1.8 a big swap for Miatas w/ a 1.6, and obviously the RB swaps for Skylines and such.

Didn't someone some time ago use a KA/SR tranny mount/k-member flipped upside down to help mount the VQ's 6spd?

Yes you can use the OEM KA trans mount but it does require small modifications.

[irax]

I do as well. Using stock parts on a motor swap is what makes the SR swap such a big deal for this community, the 1.8 a big swap for Miatas w/ a 1.6, and obviously the RB swaps for Skylines and such.

Didn't someone some time ago use a KA/SR tranny mount/k-member flipped upside down to help mount the VQ's 6spd?

not flipped upside down but turned around. but with the correct mounting you don't even need to modify it! well.. with a truck 6speed you don't with the car 6speed you just need to drill holes for the trans mount.

[racepar1]

The vqswap.com kit is fine welds aren't shitty or anything but the major problem with that kit is price I mean give me a break $1200 for a custom x-member, trans mount, and shifter relocator? I bought the vqswap.com kit but only b/c I got it less than half price otherwise I would've made my own. I don't see why realistically sinister couldn't offer a welded x-member for under $500.

I have held in my hand parts that came from vqswap.com and what I saw was the sorriest excuse for fabrication I have ever seen.

[SinisterSntra91]

The vqswap.com kit is fine welds aren't shitty or anything but the major problem with that kit is price I mean give me a break $1200 for a custom x-member, trans mount, and shifter relocator? I bought the vqswap.com kit but only b/c I got it less than half price otherwise I would've made my own. I don't see why realistically sinister couldn't offer a welded x-member for under $500.

I am aiming to offer the full kit (Modified cross member, custom trans crossmember and shifter bracket all for $600. I stress that I am aiming for this price. Its all going to boil down to cost of material and labor. Of course I am trying to make this kit worth my time to make. Otherwise I would just break even and thats not worth my time or anyones time to make it. I am sure everyone understands that. I will agree though $1200 is ridiculous for work that shotty.

[slw240sx]

What shop are you working out of? your own or another PM me.

we are in the middle of a 03 spec V swap using a 03 maxima VQ. my wiring guy will be starting to map out the wiring next week. Looks like it will be challenging.

are the 240 guys running 350/G35 ECU's with success? i havent been keeping up with the VQ swaps at all.

[SinisterSntra91]

What shop are you working out of? your own or another PM me.

we are in the middle of a 03 spec V swap using a 03 maxima VQ. my wiring guy will be starting to map out the wiring next week. Looks like it will be challenging.

are the 240 guys running 350/G35 ECU's with success? i havent been keeping up with the VQ swaps at all.

Im working out of my own shop. Wiring is very challenging. I have only seen one thread where a guy combined a 350z ecu with a 240sx harness and made it work, but even then he still had to use the BCM and full nats system.

[raen419]

not flipped upside down but turned around. but with the correct mounting you don't even need to modify it! well.. with a truck 6speed you don't with the car 6speed you just need to drill holes for the trans mount.
Thats good to know. Thanks for the clarification.

[SPiG]

I have the VQswap kit, and the fitment and quality of the kit is really bad.

Depending on how it looks when I get the engine in the car, I might be interested in swapping to your setup if it looks that much better.

As far as the wiring discussion, I am not going to recommend to anyone else to go the way I am going, because there are advantages and disadvantages whichever way you do it. The VVT helps low end torque and idle, not top end power. Above 5000rpm VVT is disabled anyway on the stock tune.

The VQ30 ECU (no VVT) is MUCH simpler to wire up, and takes to tuning much easier, while the VQ35 ECU is much more complicated, but with VVT, probably more baseline power, and a few more options for tuning, but they are more expensive.

I already had plenty of parts that came off my wrecked maxima including ECU and wiring harness, so that was free, and with the Maxima supercharger bracket that I am using, that is much simpler and more reliable than the Z33 one, I am now pretty much stuck with my choices.

The SR swap and RB swap have been around a lot longer, and are simpler in that they are older, less complicated, and more compatible with this chassis. The VQ swap is not going to be a one path fits all, nor is it going to be a "plug and play" anytime soon without some kind of serious mechanical and electrical kits, and the OP is trying to get us that much closer and I think that is great.

BTW Sinister, you could try to post something about this on Engine Swap Forum (http://www.engineswaptech.com) if you don't post there already. It has been pretty much dead there for a while though. There is a lot of information about the VQ swap there as well.

[Ali 556]

LOL,

Guys All'ya Come the F8uck down....If I'm Gonna Swap A "V" Engine In My S14 Only For N/A POwer...I'll Swap A Damn Lsx In There....

Painless Harness Is 600$ And You Run The Wiring For the gauges And You Will Start Y\the Car....And there is a mounting kit for the LSx To BOLT ON the Stock x-member...with cutting (Unlike hinson's kit)....

Did I Mentioned that a LS1 With heads/cam/header/Y Pipe/ Apex'i GT Spec Cat Back/FAST 80mm TB/FAST Intake Mani....Laid Down 440whp and 420Tq...:bigok:

And To Stay On Topic...Some Dude In FL Swaped A 2JZ-GTE Into A 350Z.....why?

B/c The VQ Is "Not what you want" In Term Of $$$/Whp,:fawkd:

Just Swap An LSx...

Ali

P.S

BTW I'll go With KA-T On My S14..why B/c It's CHEAP..

[xxtokesxx]

I have the VQswap kit, and the fitment and quality of the kit is really bad.

Depending on how it looks when I get the engine in the car, I might be interested in swapping to your setup if it looks that much better.

As far as the wiring discussion, I am not going to recommend to anyone else to go the way I am going, because there are advantages and disadvantages whichever way you do it. The VVT helps low end torque and idle, not top end power. Above 5000rpm VVT is disabled anyway on the stock tune.

The VQ30 ECU (no VVT) is MUCH simpler to wire up, and takes to tuning much easier, while the VQ35 ECU is much more complicated, but with VVT, probably more baseline power, and a few more options for tuning, but they are more expensive.

I already had plenty of parts that came off my wrecked maxima including ECU and wiring harness, so that was free, and with the Maxima supercharger bracket that I am using, that is much simpler and more reliable than the Z33 one, I am now pretty much stuck with my choices.

The SR swap and RB swap have been around a lot longer, and are simpler in that they are older, less complicated, and more compatible with this chassis. The VQ swap is not going to be a one path fits all, nor is it going to be a "plug and play" anytime soon without some kind of serious mechanical and electrical kits, and the OP is trying to get us that much closer and I think that is great.

BTW Sinister, you could try to post something about this on Engine Swap Forum (http://www.engineswaptech.com/) if you don't post there already. It has been pretty much dead there for a while though. There is a lot of information about the VQ swap there as well.Very good post... thanks for your input.

LOL,

Guys All'ya Come the F8uck down....If I'm Gonna Swap A "V" Engine In My S14 Only For N/A POwer...I'll Swap A Damn Lsx In There....

Painless Harness Is 600$ And You Run The Wiring For the gauges And You Will Start Y\the Car....And there is a mounting kit for the LSx To BOLT ON the Stock x-member...with cutting (Unlike hinson's kit)....

Did I Mentioned that a LS1 With heads/cam/header/Y Pipe/ Apex'i GT Spec Cat Back/FAST 80mm TB/FAST Intake Mani....Laid Down 440whp and 420Tq...:bigok:

And To Stay On Topic...Some Dude In FL Swaped A 2JZ-GTE Into A 350Z.....why?

B/c The VQ Is "Not what you want" In Term Of $$$/Whp,:fawkd:

Just Swap An LSx...

Ali

P.S

BTW I'll go With KA-T On My S14..why B/c It's CHEAP..
You know what... I don't disagree with going ka-t at all. But keep in mind, if you play your cards right, you would be suprised at what price you could do a vq swap for... and for the most part, at least around here - the vq's are not staying n/a. :) You have a point on the LSx, but were trying to keep it nissan.

[irax]

Very good post... thanks for your input.


You know what... I don't disagree with going ka-t at all. But keep in mind, if you play your cards right, you would be suprised at what price you could do a vq swap for... and for the most part, at least around here - the vq's are not staying n/a. :) You have a point on the LSx, but were trying to keep it nissan.

not even that. the LSX isn't the end all be all, and don't start an LS pissing match, I KNOW ITS A FUCKING GREAT ENGINE. People just want to swap motors. They want to work with what they know. I started doing my VQ swap because back in 2003 when I got my first car which was an s13 auto for 600 bucks! but the first thing I wanted to do was put a 350z engine in it. I just knew that was what I wanted. At one point I was going to go QR25DE but when I found out that it wasn't good at all I just stuck with the VQ plan. It's all I want for what I want. My end game is a street legal stillen supercharged vq35de in my 240sx. It will sound bad ass, it will haul ass, and hopefully it can get me non-male ass! KA-T is great, but it's illegal, LS1 is great, but some ref's won't let you pass with out factory headers. SR is just as illegal. If I wasn't in KAWLRIPHONEEAH I'd probably just have a KA-T.

[irax]

What shop are you working out of? your own or another PM me.

we are in the middle of a 03 spec V swap using a 03 maxima VQ. my wiring guy will be starting to map out the wiring next week. Looks like it will be challenging.

are the 240 guys running 350/G35 ECU's with success? i havent been keeping up with the VQ swaps at all.

I will be running an 02 maxima ecu. The 02/03 are easier to wire up than the 350z's. but honestly I think we are all making it a lot more complicated sounding then it really needs to be. Because if you search VQ35DE swap on google you will find 510 and 240z guys already have it running on a factory ecu and when you see their wiring harness it looks simple.

[Ali 556]

Very good post... thanks for your input.


You know what... I don't disagree with going ka-t at all. But keep in mind, if you play your cards right, you would be suprised at what price you could do a vq swap for... and for the most part, at least around here - the vq's are not staying n/a. :) You have a point on the LSx, but were trying to keep it nissan.

dunno,

Spare KA With 110K Miles = 300$
EVO IX Header And o2 Huosing (Must Cut And Rewld To The Stock Header Plate) 300$
EVO VII Turbo = 400$ (350Whp Easy With Zero Lag)
IC & Piping = 260$
Total = 300+300+400+260= 1260$

Still I Need ECU/ Injectors / SAFC II And Sard 280LPH Fuel Pump

And IIRC The VQ35 Set From A Z Are Like 2500+$...

And I Repet :

If you want to Swap A ''V'' For NA Power...go With LSx

LSx>All

Ali

[irax]

dunno,

Spare KA With 110K Miles = 300$
EVO IX Header And o2 Huosing (Must Cut And Rewld To The Stock Header Plate) 300$
EVO VII Turbo = 400$ (350Whp Easy With Zero Lag)
IC & Piping = 260$
Total = 300+300+400+260= 1260$

Still I Need ECU/ Injectors / SAFC II And Sard 280LPH Fuel Pump

And IIRC The VQ35 Set From A Z Are Like 2500+$...

And I Repet :

If you want to Swap A ''V'' For NA Power...go With LSx

LSx>All

Ali
You forgot, down pipe, exhaust. And a good tune isn't going to be like $5, you can get a tuned ecu for turbo from JWT but you still need it to be tuned for YOUR set up. And injectors can run more than $100 each if your not buying used, or stock from a different car used.

but a

VQ35DE from a FWD car $1-200 (with oxygen sensors and tb)
engine Wire harness & ecu from a Z $2-500
underdash harness and BCM from Z $2-500
RWD transmission $200
RWD intake manifold $50
RWD exhaust manifolds $1-200
engine and trans mount $1200 currently only VQSWAP.com makes a kit, but REALLY soon there are going to be more available under $600



so... $1450 to $2800 and it's street legal-able and it should get great gas milage and around the price for a blacktop sr shipped

and thats if you piece it together. There are alot of RWD motor sets with everythign you need sans the mounting that go for 1k - 1800... yeah it was 2500 but there are soo god damn many Z's on and off the road you can get it for cheap for a DE motor, a REV-Up or HR are in the 2-3k range though. But they make more power and take bolt ons really well.




And the fact of the matter is, this thread isn't a debate about which V engine is best. It's about some one offering a kit to fit a VQ35DE into a 240sx.... so please stop posting about how such and such motor is better. Create another thread for that.

[SinisterSntra91]

You forgot, down pipe, exhaust. And a good tune isn't going to be like $5, you can get a tuned ecu for turbo from JWT but you still need it to be tuned for YOUR set up. And injectors can run more than $100 each if your not buying used, or stock from a different car used.

but a

VQ35DE from a FWD car $1-200 (with oxygen sensors and tb)
engine Wire harness & ecu from a Z $2-500
underdash harness and BCM from Z $2-500
RWD transmission $200
RWD intake manifold $50
RWD exhaust manifolds $1-200
engine and trans mount $1200 currently only VQSWAP.com makes a kit, but REALLY soon there are going to be more available under $600



so... $1450 to $2800 and it's street legal-able and it should get great gas milage and around the price for a blacktop sr shipped

and thats if you piece it together. There are alot of RWD motor sets with everythign you need sans the mounting that go for 1k - 1800... yeah it was 2500 but there are soo god damn many Z's on and off the road you can get it for cheap for a DE motor, a REV-Up or HR are in the 2-3k range though. But they make more power and take bolt ons really well.




And the fact of the matter is, this thread isn't a debate about which V engine is best. It's about some one offering a kit to fit a VQ35DE into a 240sx.... so please stop posting about how such and such motor is better. Create another thread for that.

Very great points, not to mention as time goes by and more of the 350s and G35s hit the junk yard the engine will be come more available and therefore cheaper. As more people do this swap more knowledege will be gained. The VQ35 is really a new animal even tho is been out since like 03 there really is not a whole wealth of knowledge on the motor. There is still alot of development going on for the motor in the aftermarket industry.

[racepar1]

WTF does a ls1 or a turbo ka have to do with this thread? How about this Ali556, shut the fuck up! KTHX.

An ls1 is very tempting as it is a great engine and the wiring is like 4 wires. The problem is that it isn't a nissan motor and that takes away from the swap a bit. I wanna drive a nissan, not a nissanchevrolet. Also the push rod engine would make my car illegal for the super street time attack, which I do plan on competing in in a few years.

As far as a turbo KA that is just not as cheap to do RIGHT as most people think. To do it right you have to re-build the engine, lower the compression, and change the cams. The cost of that plus the cost of the turbo set-up, fuel system, tuning, ecu, and cooling system that is needed to keep that engine going reliably would be astronomical. I see it all the time, a guy cheaps out on the turbo set-up and tuning for his turbo KA and blows it up. Then said guy bitches about how the KA's are un-reliable and like to blow up when in fact it is his own stupidity that causes the engine to blow.

The VQ is the ONLY nissan engine that can be legally swapped into our cars that is worth swapping. It is the cream of the crop. The RB is just retarded to swap into an s-chasis, the SR is played out as fuck, neither can be done legally, and the VQ (RWD) makes more power in stock form then either.

[raen419]

dunno,

Spare KA With 110K Miles = 300$
EVO IX Header And o2 Huosing (Must Cut And Rewld To The Stock Header Plate) 300$
EVO VII Turbo = 400$ (350Whp Easy With Zero Lag)
IC & Piping = 260$
Total = 300+300+400+260= 1260$

Still I Need ECU/ Injectors / SAFC II And Sard 280LPH Fuel Pump

And IIRC The VQ35 Set From A Z Are Like 2500+$...

And I Repet :

If you want to Swap A ''V'' For NA Power...go With LSx

LSx>All

Ali
Good job at trying to threadjack, but practically EVERYONE here knows plenty about the LSx swap, and DOESN'T CARE. Plenty of use (including myself) like the LSx engines, but some of us WANT TO keep a Nissan engine in our car(s). And when you consider things besides POWER about an engine swap (like engine/tranny weight, balance, retuning the suspension to offset the weight of a heavier motor, etc) the LSx isn't all that great of an option (though still a great motor, imo).

Its not all about power. Duh.
Quit trying to push your own opinion (not facts) on others. This thread is about info and development on a somewhat cheaper and possibly more painless way at approaching the VQ swap.

[Ali 556]

An ls1 is very tempting as it is a great engine and the wiring is like 4 wires. The problem is that it isn't a nissan motor and that takes away from the swap a bit. I wanna drive a nissan, not a nissanchevrolet. Also the push rod engine would make my car illegal for the super street time attack, which I do plan on competing in in a few years.

.

OP,

If You Can Beat This Price..

Sikky Mounting Kit For LSx (S13&S14)

http://www.sikky.com/files/S14Kitpic.jpg

Features
-No cutting required to cross member or transmission tunnel
-Direct drop in mount kit that allows the LS1 to bolt in as easy as a factory motor
-Large capacity aluminum racing pan with baffles and trap doors to help prevent oil starvation.
-Extremely high quality parts 100% made in the USA
-Kit allows for lowest mounting possible with plenty of hood clearance to allow use of the factory hood.
-Fits S14 chassis
KIT PRICE: $1750

Kit Includes:
Aluminum Race Oil Pan
Features:
- 7 quart high capacity design,
-6061 CNC machined flanges
-Baffle and trap doors to prevent oil starvation
-New OEM oil pan gasket
-Oil pickup
Remote mount filter Kit
Features:
-10 AN fittings (2) and stainless braided lines (2)
-Remote oil filter base
-High quality oil filter
-All fittings and hardware
Engine Mounts & Transmission Mounts
Engine mount Features:
-CAD/CAM designed CNC machined solid 6061 T-6 aluminum mounts
-Urethane Bushings
-High Grade Hardware Kit
-Proper Engine Placement and Axle Alignment
-Lifetime Warranty on engine mounts
Transmission mount Features:
-CAD/CAM designed
-Steel mount bracket
-Urethane bushing
-High Grade Hardware kit
-Lifetime Warranty on transmission mount
Driveshaft
Features:
-Steel One Piece Driveshaft with high strength U-joints
Additional Items Available:

-1 piece Aluminum Driveshaft (+ $200)
-Power steerng line kit (Under Development)
-Solid Aluminum Bushing replacements for Urethane bushings (Under Development)

I Know That I've Fucked This Thread...But I'm Only Posting Other Options For Any One Who Look For N/A Power....with Better $/Hp Then The VQ

Ali

P.s

I'll Not Post Any More

[racepar1]

OP,

If You Can Beat This Price..

Sikky Mounting Kit For LSx (S13&S14)

Features
-No cutting required to cross member or transmission tunnel
-Direct drop in mount kit that allows the LS1 to bolt in as easy as a factory motor
-Large capacity aluminum racing pan with baffles and trap doors to help prevent oil starvation.
-Extremely high quality parts 100% made in the USA
-Kit allows for lowest mounting possible with plenty of hood clearance to allow use of the factory hood.
-Fits S14 chassis
KIT PRICE: $1750

Kit Includes:
Aluminum Race Oil Pan
Features:
- 7 quart high capacity design,
-6061 CNC machined flanges
-Baffle and trap doors to prevent oil starvation
-New OEM oil pan gasket
-Oil pickup
Remote mount filter Kit
Features:
-10 AN fittings (2) and stainless braided lines (2)
-Remote oil filter base
-High quality oil filter
-All fittings and hardware
Engine Mounts & Transmission Mounts
Engine mount Features:
-CAD/CAM designed CNC machined solid 6061 T-6 aluminum mounts
-Urethane Bushings
-High Grade Hardware Kit
-Proper Engine Placement and Axle Alignment
-Lifetime Warranty on engine mounts
Transmission mount Features:
-CAD/CAM designed
-Steel mount bracket
-Urethane bushing
-High Grade Hardware kit
-Lifetime Warranty on transmission mount
Driveshaft
Features:
-Steel One Piece Driveshaft with high strength U-joints
Additional Items Available:

-1 piece Aluminum Driveshaft (+ $200)
-Power steerng line kit (Under Development)
-Solid Aluminum Bushing replacements for Urethane bushings (Under Development)

I Know That I've Fucked This Thread...But I'm Only Posting Other Options For Any One Who Look For N/A Power....with Better $/Hp Then The VQ

Ali

P.s

I'll Not Post Any More

Yes the OP's kit will certainly be less expensive than that. Good job at threadjacking and taking this shit way off topic. Hell the whole wiring argument was way closer to on-topic than your posts. As has been stated, WE ARE ALL AWARE OF THE LS1 SWAP! Your info here is news to absolutely nobody.

[SinisterSntra91]

Yes the OP's kit will certainly be less expensive than that. Good job at threadjacking and taking this shit way off topic. Hell the whole wiring argument was way closer to on-topic than your posts. As has been stated, WE ARE ALL AWARE OF THE LS1 SWAP! Your info here is news to absolutely nobody.

Ha ha and you wont need a power steering kit or remote mount oil filter kit. Oh did I mention the VQ35 is lighter than the LS1 motor? 126 lbs lighter to be exact (VQ35 weighs 330lbs where the LS1 weighs 456 lbs) If you want to compare HP numbers the VQ35 makes 287-296hp where the LS1 makes 305-350hp. Factor in the weight of both engines the VQ35 is not far off in power and its only 2/3s the engine an LS1 is. So lets do the math.

2004 Chevy Corvette motor base model LS1 engine averages for $3500
2004 Chevy Corvette trans base model MT averages for $1500
Swap kit runs $1750
This will exclude anything else you need to make the car run grand total on average will be around $6750

2004 Nissan 350z motor base model VQ35DE engine averages for $2000
2004 Nissan 350z motor base model VQ35DE MT averages for $800
Swap kit if you were to use "the other guys" kit $1200
This will also exclude anything else you need to make the car run grand total on average will be around $4000

And lets not forget which one will save you more money on gas in the end too, lol.

I am aiming to make my kit for around $600 (material and labor permitting, I dont work for free or to break even nobody does) I guarantee ill bitch slap the price of $1750 fpr a kit, hell Ill guarantee ill bitch slap "the other guys" price so the swap will be even cheaper.

I am not knocking the LS1 swap, its a great swap and it sounds sexy as hell. IMO it lacks technology and the engineering Nissan has come up with. There is no reason with that sort of displacement that Chevy couldnt produce way more power than that LS1 actually puts out.

In all reality your are comparing apples to oranges and your throwing my thread way off topic, so please get out of my thread and dont come back now, you hear?

[jzepol1985]

i will definitely buy a kit. When do you plan on having them ready?

[SinisterSntra91]

i will definitely buy a kit. When do you plan on having them ready?

ASAP, I am buying up crossmembers to get started. Im having a drive shaft made soon, it will be an option with the kit.

[mikesparks]

when we get a mandrel bender we need to make crossmembers out of round tube

[irax]

when we get a mandrel bender we need to make crossmembers out of round tube

Honestly I think replacing the cross member is a bit excessive.

[racepar1]

Well it is either that or make some engine mount brackets and unless you are going to make them billet it will be the same shit as vqswap.com used to sell. That shit was janky as fuck! I think it would be dope to make a tubular front subframe that ties the crossmember and the tension rod brackets together as one assembly, including a "power brace". That would drop some weight and stiffen the front end significantly.

[gregfarz78]

when we get a mandrel bender we need to make crossmembers out of round tube

You're replacing the entire crossmember? I thought you were just modifying the stock x-member like the pic in the original post?

[jzepol1985]

where do i put my name for the waiting list?

[SinisterSntra91]

Well it is either that or make some engine mount brackets and unless you are going to make them billet it will be the same shit as vqswap.com used to sell. That shit was janky as fuck! I think it would be dope to make a tubular front subframe that ties the crossmember and the tension rod brackets together as one assembly, including a "power brace". That would drop some weight and stiffen the front end significantly.

This is an avenue we can venture down eventually, first I want to get this thing up and going before I dive into something that excessive.

You're replacing the entire crossmember? I thought you were just modifying the stock x-member like the pic in the original post?

No no he is just saying it might be something to look into for cost effectiveness but for fitments sake I think its best we stick with modifying the stock cross members.

To all of those wondering I am looking into cost of material so I can get a set price, and I am waiting on crossmembers to arrive so there is no down time for the customer. As soon as I know prices and we have the material were going to start turning out kits as fast as possible.

[unlegendary]

how come the people on z31 and 510 forums make the wiring sound like a piece of cake.
Z31Performance.com &bull; View topic - VQed 300zx 86 n/a GLL 2 seater (http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6281&p=119568&hilit=vq35de#p119568)

[2404ever]

her is mu vq35de S/chttp://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us157.jpg
http://http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us162.jpghttp://http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us132.jpg

[2404ever]

vq35de (RWD) into s13 or s14 engine mounts
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount1.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount.jpg

fab those mount at work.the engine will clear rack,and hood.used volvo mounts u find them on ebay all day long.

[gregfarz78]

how come the people on z31 and 510 forums make the wiring sound like a piece of cake.
Z31Performance.com &bull; View topic - VQed 300zx 86 n/a GLL 2 seater (http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6281&p=119568&hilit=vq35de#p119568)

Thanks for the link I'll do some reading later. Did they get everything working though?

[gregfarz78]

vq35de (RWD) into s13 or s14 engine mounts
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount1.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount.jpg

fab those mount at work.the engine will clear rack,and hood.used volvo mounts u find them on ebay all day long.

Those mount to the stock s13/s14 x-member? do you sell them?

[racepar1]

vq35de (RWD) into s13 or s14 engine mounts
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount1.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount.jpg

fab those mount at work.the engine will clear rack,and hood.used volvo mounts u find them on ebay all day long.

Those look janky man, I would never put that crap in my car. It is marginally better than similar brackets that I have seen from vqswap.com at least.

[unlegendary]

Thanks for the link I'll do some reading later. Did they get everything working though?

yes he did, and posted up some videos in that forum. he even said the wiring is easy but tedious. there are also some write ups on nicoclub, it isn't the s14 one by fred but by a guy named spedracing i believe. it's an excellent write up "for progress" that includes pictures of the wiring but not in depth enough to be a DIY helper. i bet if someone made a s13/s14 wiring diagram at the least, this unique market could offer a quick buck... lol.

[SinisterSntra91]

her is mu vq35de S/chttp://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us157.jpg
http://http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us162.jpghttp://http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us132.jpg

You got to do something about that hood guy, other than that clean ride none the less.

[SinisterSntra91]

vq35de (RWD) into s13 or s14 engine mounts
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount1.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount.jpg

fab those mount at work.the engine will clear rack,and hood.used volvo mounts u find them on ebay all day long.

Yeah Im not to hip to that, they dont look very solid, but if they work to each his own.

[gregfarz78]

yes he did, and posted up some videos in that forum. he even said the wiring is easy but tedious. there are also some write ups on nicoclub, it isn't the s14 one by fred but by a guy named spedracing i believe. it's an excellent write up "for progress" that includes pictures of the wiring but not in depth enough to be a DIY helper. i bet if someone made a s13/s14 wiring diagram at the least, this unique market could offer a quick buck... lol.

The speedo and rpm gauge don't work, that seems to be a sticking point with everyone so far. My car would never pass inspection w/o a working speedo and tach...but otherwise the swap looks about 98% successful which is good news just needs a few last bugs worked out.

[irax]

vq35de (RWD) into s13 or s14 engine mounts
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount1.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/vqmount.jpg

fab those mount at work.the engine will clear rack,and hood.used volvo mounts u find them on ebay all day long.

these mounts look perfectly find to me assuming the welds are perfect there should be no problem running a setup like this. If you look at all the other motor swap brackets IE xJZ, LSX,LTX, into 240's or for any other car for that matter, these look standard.

[irax]

her is mu vq35de S/chttp://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us157.jpg
http://http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us162.jpghttp://http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u219/cesar240sx/us132.jpg

dude all you need is a shaker cowl and it will be hawt!

[racepar1]

these mounts look perfectly find to me assuming the welds are perfect there should be no problem running a setup like this. If you look at all the other motor swap brackets IE xJZ, LSX,LTX, into 240's or for any other car for that matter, these look standard.

Standard? Yes! Good enough for me to put them in my car? NO! The standard shit sucks balls. Those brackets will flex like hell. They probably won't break for a while and they do look better then the vqswap.com ones that I have seen, but just not good enough. If you are going to make brackets like that they need to be more heavily gusseted to prevent flexing. In fact if you gusset them properly and box them in you could almost use sheet metal to build them.

[mikesparks]

to the top

[gregfarz78]

Those brackets are a good start I'd probably use 1/4" plate though and reinforce them a little bit more.

[mikesparks]

Those brackets are a good start I'd probably use 1/4" plate though and reinforce them a little bit more.
after all of the time re-inforcing those brackets you might as well build the cross member

[jzepol1985]

Updates please

[SinisterSntra91]

Updates please

After alot of searching I finally came up with the right size material to make the shifter brackets. Someone had mentioned that the stock SR/KA trans crossmember can be used if flipped in the right way. I am going to explore this once I obtain a trans bracket from my friends S14 this week as I do not have one. If this is true then we can further cut down on the simplicity of the kit and most importantly the cost. This week I am going to have a local driveshaft shop come and take measurements on my 240, so I can test fit the shaft and mafe sure all is well and no binding will occur. I do not want to sell a kit to anyone and not know for certain that it will install on our customers cars with no issues. Also as requested I am documenting our kit vs. "the other guys" kit as far as quality is concerned to justify our kit as being the better option. In my free time (what little I have between all of this and work) I am researching ways to make this a turn key swap with ease. I think I have found a way to do so but testing is the only way I can say for sure. I do not want to make any false statements at this point in time so please stay tuned.

[orangejdmsilvia]

hurry i want VQ next season..i blew another dam turbo.....

[SinisterSntra91]

hurry i want VQ next season..i blew another dam turbo.....

Im working on it mang, I met with a local company that will make the shaft for me, they let me know what they needed to make the shaft so now I need to get a 350z shaft.....Im hitting up my 350z parts guy as we speak....

On a side note does anyone have a busted abs diff they want to donate to the fitment cause?

[gregfarz78]

I've heard you can use a 350z drive shaft but you'll need to cut it shorter, is that the plan?

[SinisterSntra91]

I've heard you can use a 350z drive shaft but you'll need to cut it shorter, is that the plan?

In a nut shell just depends on if the flanges are the same.

[irax]

Im working on it mang, I met with a local company that will make the shaft for me, they let me know what they needed to make the shaft so now I need to get a 350z shaft.....Im hitting up my 350z parts guy as we speak....

On a side note does anyone have a busted abs diff they want to donate to the fitment cause?


you know how the drive shaft is 2 piece? just make a short shaft that connects to the drive shaft support bearing.

[gregfarz78]

In a nut shell just depends on if the flanges are the same.

right I'm pretty sure if you're using the j30 diff it should work, don't quote me on that though :hs:

[SinisterSntra91]

you know how the drive shaft is 2 piece? just make a short shaft that connects to the drive shaft support bearing.

Thats an option too, I want to have different options open for different people depending on budget.

On a side note I did some adding up of the material with labor to make the kit and I came up with a projected price of $800. This will include modified crossmember blasted and coated, custom trans mount bracket, blasted and coated, custom shifter bracket blasted and coated. Now I have yet to find out if the stock trans bracket will work with this swap, if it does we can offer the kit for the price of $600 like I orginally aimed for. Now keep in mind this kit is $400 cheaper than "the other guys" kit. Steel is not cheap what so ever. We are not using any light weight stuff on this kit everything is SOLID, but we do this to ensure durability and quality. I will be posting up pictures of the differences in our kit vs. theirs so you can see the quality difference for yourselves. Even though it should be a no brainer whos kit you should buy based on price I want to show that your not getting a cheap knock off and that this kit was made with price and quality in mind. We are not looking to rape people, break the bank and get rich quick, we are just a group of guys trying to make a little cash on the side to fund the addiction of cars we all have. With that being said, who is ready to purchase this kit/be put on a waiting list for the kit? If there is enough interested we can even negotiate a group buy... I guess this means I need to upgrade my zilvia account soon....

[!Zar!]

I haven't ready anything in this thread aside from the first sentence. With that, I have to say, 90% of the people on this forum are cheap asses and would STILL buy the kit even if it was crappier than the current one available. Why, because it's cheaper and that's all they care about.

But on the other hand, 90% of zilvia won't buy this because they can't afford the kit/swap in the first place.

But obviously, anyone in their right mind would be interested in something that is better as well as cheaper than what's currently available.

I must say, that s13 posted above looks like ass...

[irax]

Thats an option too, I want to have different options open for different people depending on budget.

On a side note I did some adding up of the material with labor to make the kit and I came up with a projected price of $800. This will include modified crossmember blasted and coated, custom trans mount bracket, blasted and coated, custom shifter bracket blasted and coated. Now I have yet to find out if the stock trans bracket will work with this swap, if it does we can offer the kit for the price of $600 like I orginally aimed for. Now keep in mind this kit is $400 cheaper than VQswap.com. Steel is not cheap what so ever. We are not using any light weight stuff on this kit everything is SOLID, but we do this to ensure durability and quality. I will be posting up pictures of the differences in our kit vs. theirs so you can see the quality difference for yourselves. Even though it should be a no brainer whos kit you should buy based on price I want to show that your not getting a cheap knock off and that this kit was made with price and quality in mind. We are not looking to rape people, break the bank and get rich quick, we are just a group of guys trying to make a little cash on the side to fund the addiction of cars we all have. With that being said, who is ready to purchase this kit/be put on a waiting list for the kit? If there is enough interested we can even negotiate a group buy... I guess this means I need to upgrade my zilvia account soon....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Silvia/101_4190.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Silvia/101_4191.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Silvia/101_4192.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Silvia/101_4193.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Silvia/101_4196.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/Kunei_LP/Silvia/101_4197.jpg


this was done with an automatic trans crossmember

[SinisterSntra91]

this was done with an automatic trans crossmember

Yeah I would feel better with a new custom bracket than that method, that doesnt look real solid after its cut like that. And if you look there was some welding done to it as well. I got the crossmember bracket my friend had, maybe mine will line up as it does not look like the bracket is far off in those pics.

[irax]

Yeah I would feel better with a new custom bracket than that method, that doesnt look real solid after its cut like that. And if you look there was some welding done to it as well. I got the crossmember bracket my friend had, maybe mine will line up as it does not look like the bracket is far off in those pics.

well there is welding on it because the kid thought he was going to need to extend it super long. you don't need to cut it all the way acrose like that but the kid did it because he wanted to see which position would work out better.
honestly the kids fabrication skills are shit

[mehsilvia]

Here is a MT crossmember

I used an aluminum bracket that i had in my toolbox laying around.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Engine/IMG_2323.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Engine/IMG_2324.jpg

One hold drilled through the center of the crossmember, total of 3 bolts used.

You should be able to see how its simply bolted up by the pics.

And the mounting points crossmember-to-trans required NO modification.

[unlegendary]

oh word, nice!

[98s14inaz]

how come the people on z31 and 510 forums make the wiring sound like a piece of cake.
Z31Performance.com &bull; View topic - VQed 300zx 86 n/a GLL 2 seater (http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6281&p=119568&hilit=vq35de#p119568)

I'd imagine no obdII restrictions, which make it easier because you can just run a standalone.

[irax]

I'd imagine no obdII restrictions, which make it easier because you can just run a standalone.

510 yeah, z31 nope, but both examples of cars run full OEM ECU. It's just that they actually take their time to do it, everyone in the 240 community including me is just lazy and wants some one else to do it, or have poor study habits which makes it hard to understand a wiring diagram.

[unlegendary]

I'd imagine no obdII restrictions, which make it easier because you can just run a standalone.
you'd imagine but you did not read lol. it's just like ib said. also, i can't read a wiring diagram but I know this guy can do the wiring for you if you give him the electronics and your own 240 harness http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=207033

[irax]

you'd imagine but you did not read lol. it's just like ib said. also, i can't read a wiring diagram but I know this guy can do the wiring for you if you give him the electronics and your own 240 harness VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....: 240SX Forum / 180SX Forum / Silvia Forum: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub (http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=207033)

problem with that is that he's not doing it anymore, at least the last time i checked.

[skins2180]

Whats the latest on the swap kit??

[codyace]

I can't believe how much nonsense is in this thread. Would be nice for someone to go through and delete most of the posts to make reading it easier!

I do have some questions though (as I happen to have an a32 junker at the shop):

What about using a maxima doner car....that is, use that VQ, use that ECU, and use that Wire harness? If someone is just looking for a fun little swap, finding wrecked A32's is like cake! The only thing unbeknown to me is what transmissions are compatable with the FWD 3.0. Also, what about oil pan clearence?

Fabbing up a custom driveshaft is no issue, we can use one of our suppliers. Only concern to me would obviously be motor mounts. Fabbing a trans mount wouldn't take much time either to make a new one out of steel stock and tube stock at the shop either.

[slw240sx]

vq30 should use the same trans as the vq35. the oil pan if its anything like a FWD vq35 would be a front sump when ran RWD. Wiring on the Vq30 should be relatively easy compared to the 350z and vq35 maximas. i think anything 02 or older doesn't have NATs on it. But i am way way behind on the VQ research. all the work we have been doing this winter is for 5.3L GM motors and getting a cheap swap setup designed it will be cheaper then VQswaps.

i still want to get my hands on another VQ35 to put together another car for myself.

[codyace]

vq30 should use the same trans as the vq35. the oil pan if its anything like a FWD vq35 would be a front sump when ran RWD. Wiring on the Vq30 should be relatively easy compared to the 350z and vq35 maximas. i think anything 02 or older doesn't have NATs on it. But i am way way behind on the VQ research. all the work we have been doing this winter is for 5.3L GM motors and getting a cheap swap setup designed it will be cheaper then VQswaps.

i still want to get my hands on another VQ35 to put together another car for myself.

5.3 Chevys are fantastic powerplants, and respond excellently to mods :D

[irax]

vq30 should use the same trans as the vq35. the oil pan if its anything like a FWD vq35 would be a front sump when ran RWD. Wiring on the Vq30 should be relatively easy compared to the 350z and vq35 maximas. i think anything 02 or older doesn't have NATs on it. But i am way way behind on the VQ research. all the work we have been doing this winter is for 5.3L GM motors and getting a cheap swap setup designed it will be cheaper then VQswaps.

i still want to get my hands on another VQ35 to put together another car for myself.

you would use a rwd vq30 or vq35 oil pan because on fwd vq's the starter bolts to the transmission. And everything 97 and up has nats, and 04 and up have CAN. 04-07 maximas have egr, 02-03 dont. No rwd vq35de car has an EGR

[bardabe]

you would use a rwd vq30 or vq35 oil pan because on fwd vq's the starter bolts to the transmission. And everything 97 and up has nats, and 04 and up have CAN. 04-07 maximas have egr, 02-03 dont. No rwd vq35de car has an EGR

SHHHHHHH that stays between us two

[irax]

SHHHHHHH that stays between us two

lol! for now ;-)

[JAY™]

Any updates?

[lazysk8er2]

wanna make one for a z31 while your at it i blew my na motor and a vq looks good

[SinisterSntra91]

I am putting the finishing touches on the kit. I am making sure everything is correct and the craftsmanship is the best we can do. I am having a driveshaft made as we speak. We are going to fab up 5 mount kits this weekend. If there is anyone that would like to be put on the waiting list with a down payment, PM me. We hope to have the first couple kits ready to go by next weekend.

[SinisterSntra91]

wanna make one for a z31 while your at it i blew my na motor and a vq looks good

If your really serious about doing the swap, PM me I have a deal you may be interested in...

[irax]

wanna make one for a z31 while your at it i blew my na motor and a vq looks good

you don't need one with a NA z31

Z31Performance.com &bull; View topic - VQed 300zx 86 n/a GLL 2 seater (http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6281&st=0&sk=t&sd=a)

[Lordrandall]

The VQ is the ONLY nissan engine that can be legally swapped into our cars that is worth swapping. It is the cream of the crop. The RB is just retarded to swap into an s-chasis, the SR is played out as fuck, neither can be done legally, and the VQ (RWD) makes more power in stock form then either.

vh45de? I'm just sain', now back to the thread. :)

[irax]

vh45de? I'm just sain', now back to the thread. :)

if you want to keep it automatic yeah... ohh wait, stock headers don't clear and 99.99% chance the ref will fail you without factory headers. Even then, what aftermarket parts are available for it? but stock is soo good ask gsracer or w/e his name is.

[Lordrandall]

if you want to keep it automatic yeah... ohh wait, stock headers don't clear and 99.99% chance the ref will fail you without factory headers. Even then, what aftermarket parts are available for it? but stock is soo good ask gsracer or w/e his name is.

You can use a z32 5-speed with a Mazworxz adapter plate.

But yeah, the headers are a bummer. Do the Z33 headers and cats actually fit? I do like the VQ engines.

[irax]

You can use a z32 5-speed with a Mazworxz adapter plate.

But yeah, the headers are a bummer. Do the Z33 headers and cats actually fit? I do like the VQ engines.

the transmission isn't the problem, it's the ecu. You have to use a factory ecu, and since there is no VH45DE that EVER came 5speed ESPECIALLY in the USA
you will always fail

and z33 headers and cats really do fit! the headers you have to dimple by the steering colum. but thats it.

[Lordrandall]

the transmission isn't the problem, it's the ecu. You have to use a factory ecu, and since there is no VH45DE that EVER came 5speed ESPECIALLY in the USA
you will always fail

and z33 headers and cats really do fit! the headers you have to dimple by the steering colum. but thats it.

Hmm, I've seen at least two VH swaps, but I didn't pay that much attention to the wiring aspect of them. They do run.

One:
Nissan 240sx VH45 Hybrid engine swap information (http://www.nicoclub.com/articles/240-swap.shtml)
silviav8forums.com :: Log in (http://www.silviav8forums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=350&highlight=vh45de)

Good to know about the z33 headers, I do hope someone can figure out an elegant wiring solution.

[mehsilvia]

and z33 headers and cats really do fit! the headers you have to dimple by the steering colum. but thats it.
But dont forget that you WILL have to relocate your PS and Fuel lines on the passenger side. Since the 240 was not equiped for dual exhaust mani's, these lines are directly in the way of the passenger cat. Again, NOT a big deal at all.

[irax]

But dont forget that you WILL have to relocate your PS and Fuel lines on the passenger side. Since the 240 was not equiped for dual exhaust mani's, these lines are directly in the way of the passenger cat. Again, NOT a big deal at all.

you dont have to, but yes it is smart to replocate the fuel lines.

[irax]

btw i found radiators for this swap

for s13 its
Griffin 1-26221-X - Griffin Aluminum Pro Series Radiators - summitracing.com (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-26221-X&N=700+4294924500+4294839040+400030+115&autoview=sku)

for s14 its
Griffin 1-26222-X - Griffin Aluminum Pro Series Radiators - summitracing.com (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-26222-X&N=700+4294924500+4294839040+400030+115&autoview=sku)



which i will be offering... at my non-functional website.

[95 maxima se]

im down for one as soon as i sell my a32 maxima

[irax]

nah, just use your A32 as donor car.

[SinisterSntra91]

Here is a MT crossmember

I used an aluminum bracket that i had in my toolbox laying around.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Engine/IMG_2323.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/mehsilvia/S13%20build/Engine/IMG_2324.jpg

One hold drilled through the center of the crossmember, total of 3 bolts used.

You should be able to see how its simply bolted up by the pics.

And the mounting points crossmember-to-trans required NO modification.

What transmission mount did you use? Is it Nismo or stock type? Looking closely it looks like your mount is not sitting flat. Rather, judging by the picture it looks like a stock mount, that is sitting on an angle because it has enough give on it to where its squashed... Reason I say this is because I investigated using the stock transmission crossmember flipped around method. I did this to see if I could further drop the price of our mount kit and it would be less fabricating for us, (win,win) To my suprise the the bolt holes line up perfectly, the problem is with a Nismo S13/S14 transmission mount there is about a 1/2" gap between the transmission crossmember and the body of the car, and this is with the transmission jacked up as far as it will go resulting in the transmission resting against the body. So in order to allow for movement of the transmission and less vibration on the body the transmission needs to be lowered more resulting in an almost 3/4" gap between the body and the crossmember. Unfortunately because of this a custom transmission crossmember has to be fabricated.

[mehsilvia]

What transmission mount did you use? Is it Nismo or stock type? Looking closely it looks like your mount is not sitting flat. Rather, judging by the picture it looks like a stock mount, that is sitting on an angle because it has enough give on it to where its squashed... Reason I say this is because I investigated using the stock transmission crossmember flipped around method. I did this to see if I could further drop the price of our mount kit and it would be less fabricating for us, (win,win) To my suprise the the bolt holes line up perfectly, the problem is with a Nismo S13/S14 transmission mount there is about a 1/2" gap between the transmission crossmember and the body of the car, and this is with the transmission jacked up as far as it will go resulting in the transmission resting against the body. So in order to allow for movement of the transmission and less vibration on the body the transmission needs to be lowered more resulting in an almost 3/4" gap between the body and the crossmember. Unfortunately because of this a custom transmission crossmember has to be fabricated.

Thats correct, this is a stock trans mount and crossmember (flipped), then bolted right up.
The trans mount is angled a bit, but the pitch is also influenced by the mounting height of the motor. I had my motor mounted the absolute lowest i could (1/8" clearance between the pan and the steering rack) and it resulted in the angle you see here. Id take more pics, but the swap has been pulled from the car.

Im interested in seeing the progress of your kit :bigok:

[PoorMans180SX]

Would be interested in a kit in the future. Looks like you're doing your research well, I'll support you if this turns out to be the well-engineered kit that it appears to be.

[artdrifter]

Would be interested in a kit in the future. Looks like you're doing your research well, I'll support you if this turns out to be the well-engineered kit that it appears to be.

andy are you talking about in like ten years? ahaha jk bro kep workin

[xxtokesxx]

Here are a couple pics of some guinea pigging in my s14 of the kit guys.... I can assure you that when time is available these guys have been putting in their dues to make sure that things are fitting as well as possible.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f254/xxtokesxx/1995%20240sx%20Base/VQ%20Project%20Pictures/VQBuild111.jpg

Here is my motor sitting in the bay with the help of this specific kit... I'm sure there will be more information/details now that we have hit the warmer months here in Ohio.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f254/xxtokesxx/1995%20240sx%20Base/VQ%20Project%20Pictures/VQBuild120.jpg

[fast-datsun]

call me.....Mack 951-304-9300

[SinisterSntra91]

call me.....Mack 951-304-9300

tried calling, no answer.

[fast-datsun]

Phone busy, try 951-304-1045

[SinisterSntra91]

Phone busy, try 951-304-1045

Tried that too, no answer too.

[irax]

CCCCCCCCOMBO BREAKER!!!!


stop faking the funk like you want him to call you, and just ask for HIS phone number so YOU can call him!

[fast-datsun]

both working because we recieve hundreds of call each day... [email protected]

[SinisterSntra91]

Well its started, everyone take a look...

http://zilvia.net/f/group-buys/245495-1989-1998-240sx-vq-series-mounting-kit.html