dwadia
09-11-2008, 02:00 PM
SEE THE VIDEOS AT THE BOTTOM!!
Price: $1750
I got this engine in March of this year, and it’s a typical JDM engine with supposedly about 40k miles (i honestly think a bit more but that’s what they say), and it’s ran fine and very reliably since then. I’ve put less than 2000 miles on it since i’ve owned it (probably half that). Recently it started getting a light rod knock at around 3k rpm. It still runs fine but i wouldn’t drive it in the hopes of saving the crankshaft if the bearings are done immediately. I was going to have the bearings done, but i really wanted a 6-speed so i just decided to get a full s15 swap and sell this engine as-is. I did price out the repair and it should cost about $350 for parts and labor if it doesn’t need a crankshaft, +$700 if it does (i doubt it needs that because i stopped driving it when the knock was very mild – you can listen to the videos of it running the last day before being pulled out and you’ll barely hear it). Also that cost is mostly in labor, so if you can do it yourself this is a pretty cheap repair. The top end does NOT have to be disassembled – only the oil pan and bearings.
When the engine was swapped in March, the water pump was replaced with a new one and a street-disc carbon kevlar clutch was installed (it’s as smooth as stock but much more resistant to heat). I found out after installing it that it had the VTC (or VVT) rattle that s14 engines are notorious for, so i replaced the VTC sprocket (which is the sprocket on the intake camshaft) and it went away immediately. As you may know this is a costly repair and not covered under the 30-day warranty engine dealers offer. Now the engine sounds and runs great except for the rod bearing issue.
The engine has an aftermarket Tomei-style oil pan which is no lower than stock but holds about an extra quart and is much stronger. The lettering on the valve cover is partially shaved. I did this because the s14 valve cover comes up higher than the s13 cover, so it needed to be shaved a little to clear the strut brace in my car. After shaving it I painted it black and it looks very clean and well-finished.
The harness was professionally wired for an s13 chassis and everything worked perfectly (see the videos). However this required cutting a plug off that i believe is needed for s14 swaps so i don't know how much work is required to make it functional in an s14. I had to remove the throttle body because the s15 TB was cracked. The s15 TB is included but you’ll probably just want to get one from a Q45 or something – they’re pretty cheap.
The price is for the engine, transmission, ECU, ignitor and harness as-is. Look at the videos linked below – this is the exact engine, in the exact running condition that you’ll be getting (assuming you put a throttle body on it). I think it’s a reasonable price – with a JDM engine from a warehouse you have no idea what you’re getting (hence all the things i’ve had to address with this engine) and how it’s been maintained. With this, you know you have a new clutch, new water pump, you’re not going to have VTC issues (try pricing that repair!!) and it runs well, and once the rod bearings are done you can be confident that you have a very good engine. The transmission shifts fine without any problems and comes with a short shifter from Japan. The turbo does not smoke or have issues whatsoever. Even with the bearing problem this engine has NEVER given me any reliability problems and i’m sure you’ll be happy with it.
The engine is currently located at a shop in West Chester, PA 19380 and will be there another 1-2 weeks. IF YOU CAN PICK IT UP WHILE IT’S STILL THERE, YOU CAN TAKE $150 OFF THE PRICE. After that it will be full price, and located in Livingston, NJ 07039.
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJ_pna7XJFU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJ_pna7XJFU) – start up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XOD47vw3qY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XOD47vw3qY) – revving, light rod knock
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9HKdqwlLUw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9HKdqwlLUw) – gauges while driving
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1bsPyQO9DI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1bsPyQO9DI) – exhaust (no smoke)
Email all inquiries to [email protected]
Price: $1750
I got this engine in March of this year, and it’s a typical JDM engine with supposedly about 40k miles (i honestly think a bit more but that’s what they say), and it’s ran fine and very reliably since then. I’ve put less than 2000 miles on it since i’ve owned it (probably half that). Recently it started getting a light rod knock at around 3k rpm. It still runs fine but i wouldn’t drive it in the hopes of saving the crankshaft if the bearings are done immediately. I was going to have the bearings done, but i really wanted a 6-speed so i just decided to get a full s15 swap and sell this engine as-is. I did price out the repair and it should cost about $350 for parts and labor if it doesn’t need a crankshaft, +$700 if it does (i doubt it needs that because i stopped driving it when the knock was very mild – you can listen to the videos of it running the last day before being pulled out and you’ll barely hear it). Also that cost is mostly in labor, so if you can do it yourself this is a pretty cheap repair. The top end does NOT have to be disassembled – only the oil pan and bearings.
When the engine was swapped in March, the water pump was replaced with a new one and a street-disc carbon kevlar clutch was installed (it’s as smooth as stock but much more resistant to heat). I found out after installing it that it had the VTC (or VVT) rattle that s14 engines are notorious for, so i replaced the VTC sprocket (which is the sprocket on the intake camshaft) and it went away immediately. As you may know this is a costly repair and not covered under the 30-day warranty engine dealers offer. Now the engine sounds and runs great except for the rod bearing issue.
The engine has an aftermarket Tomei-style oil pan which is no lower than stock but holds about an extra quart and is much stronger. The lettering on the valve cover is partially shaved. I did this because the s14 valve cover comes up higher than the s13 cover, so it needed to be shaved a little to clear the strut brace in my car. After shaving it I painted it black and it looks very clean and well-finished.
The harness was professionally wired for an s13 chassis and everything worked perfectly (see the videos). However this required cutting a plug off that i believe is needed for s14 swaps so i don't know how much work is required to make it functional in an s14. I had to remove the throttle body because the s15 TB was cracked. The s15 TB is included but you’ll probably just want to get one from a Q45 or something – they’re pretty cheap.
The price is for the engine, transmission, ECU, ignitor and harness as-is. Look at the videos linked below – this is the exact engine, in the exact running condition that you’ll be getting (assuming you put a throttle body on it). I think it’s a reasonable price – with a JDM engine from a warehouse you have no idea what you’re getting (hence all the things i’ve had to address with this engine) and how it’s been maintained. With this, you know you have a new clutch, new water pump, you’re not going to have VTC issues (try pricing that repair!!) and it runs well, and once the rod bearings are done you can be confident that you have a very good engine. The transmission shifts fine without any problems and comes with a short shifter from Japan. The turbo does not smoke or have issues whatsoever. Even with the bearing problem this engine has NEVER given me any reliability problems and i’m sure you’ll be happy with it.
The engine is currently located at a shop in West Chester, PA 19380 and will be there another 1-2 weeks. IF YOU CAN PICK IT UP WHILE IT’S STILL THERE, YOU CAN TAKE $150 OFF THE PRICE. After that it will be full price, and located in Livingston, NJ 07039.
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJ_pna7XJFU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJ_pna7XJFU) – start up
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XOD47vw3qY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XOD47vw3qY) – revving, light rod knock
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9HKdqwlLUw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9HKdqwlLUw) – gauges while driving
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1bsPyQO9DI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1bsPyQO9DI) – exhaust (no smoke)
Email all inquiries to [email protected]