I ran into a guard rail and....

[corymaloy]

:aw:Well I dont know anything about cars, but I want to learn... I ran into a guard rail going about 15mph maybe and bent the "A arm" broke the tie rod end, and cracked the tension rod... I think I have the part names right. I dont even have my own set of tools, but I know someone I can borrow from. The Chilton manual dosent seem very thorough so I thought I would get some other opinions on how to go about fixing this. I'm a poor student so cheaper is better.:aw:

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture023.jpg

[Mikey88]

replacing the parts are the only way and safest way...look around on here or any forum on the for sale threads to see if anyone selling wat you need for a reasonable price...you gotta pay to play man... i did the same thing

[corymaloy]

Do you think there may have been more damage? and is there any usefull tips when it comes to fixing these kinds of parts? also, is it possible that the sway bar is bent?

[s13boy89]

nah sway bar is fine just lca, tension rod, outter tie rod. useful tips dont crash

[MELLO*SOS]

lca, tension rod, outer tie rod.

It looks like you'll need both an inner tie rod and an outer tie rod. Your LCA obviously needs to be replaced. Also your pictures don't show the tension rod bracket, there's a chance you damaged that as well. After you replace the tie rods you'll need to get an alignment done.

You can probably find everything you need in a local junkyard. Or with some luck, put an ad in the WTB/classifieds section here and someone will have them laying around. Otherwise you can buy new stuff online. Make sure the replacement LCA you get has a good ball joint, the rubber should not be broken and should not be leaking grease.

If you weren't broke, this would be a great time to upgrade your front suspension; S14 LCA, z32 inners, outers, tension rod, power brace, poly bushings.

Oh btw you should download the FSM for the 89-94 240sx. Better diagrams and a lot more information than chiltons. Search around on here and you'll find links to it. GL, you get to learn how to fix your 240sx now.

[aznpoopy]

Do you think there may have been more damage? and is there any usefull tips when it comes to fixing these kinds of parts? also, is it possible that the sway bar is bent?

no tips needed really.

popping out the outer tie rod and the lca ball joint will be the hardest. loosen it up by hitting around it with a metal hammer, then give it a good pop from the top and it should pop out.

there's also a clip on the inner tie rod. just pry the tabs back with a flat head screw driver. then the inner tie rod unscrews out of the rack.

besides that it just unbolting stuff.

it is possible you have more damage. you won't know till you fix everything and then take it to get an alignment. so yeah. fix everything and then take it to get an alignment. if they cant get it in spec then something is still messed up. then come back and ask. good luck.

[karl wasabi]

You pretty much just got all the tips you can get.

I have a lower control arm/spindle set up for sale and stock tension rods. Let me know if you want them...

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/207344-strut-bars-s13-suspension-oil-cooler-fender-electric-fans-mud-flaps.html

Thats the thread.

[SlideWell]

yup, replace/upgrade(i suggest upgrade to fully adjustable) tie rods and ends, control arms, tc rods. have fun. and while ur doing that might as well upgrade other things if you can afford it.

[corymaloy]

thanks guys, that was some useful info now I just need to figure out where to find that more detailed manual. I will possibly do a follow up and let you know how my first car repair experience went!

[corymaloy]

Like I said, I dont know what im doing. But my manual says when I do any suspensions work that I need to lower the car to the ground before tightenining anything... How is that supposed to work, wouldnt it be hard to get to any of the bolts? or maybe impossible?

[MELLO*SOS]

Put the car on ramps front and back. Or use a pit or an alignment lift.

For the front suspension stuff you'll need to replace, you'll be fine if you tighten it with the car in the air.

[JVD]

Just tighten shit in the air. You're gonna need an alignment anyways... seeing as how you crashed.

[eek]

There should be a few people parting out cars in the forsale section. Junkyards are a poor mans best friend. Removing and installing should be staright forward. You shouldn't even really need a manual. Just jack up the car, look at what is broken, follow it and look for the bolts that need to come off to remove the part. Tighten everything in the air, bring it to the shop and get an alignment.

[boske]

A tie rod end puller will make it easier to remove your ball joint and tie rod. You don't have to use one since you are replacing those parts but normally you would use one so you don't mess up the threads with a hammer, they are nice to have either way.

[FaLKoN240]

1. Take your butt to the junkyard.

2. Find what you know you need, take it off the car, buy it.

3. Go home, take off broken parts from your car, and put parts from junkyard on.

4. Test drive.

5. If the car feels "decent" get an alignment.

6. If after the alignment the car feels funky, you fucked something up.

7. LOL

[corymaloy]

ok so, I got some of the parts in the mail today, but not all of them. I got the tension rod and LCA. I'm wondering what order I should put everything in if any. ALso I am worried about the nuts that go on the tension rod, the LCA was bent around the nuts so I dont think I can get them off, any ideas? My new parts didnt come with any nuts or bolts....

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture012.jpg

[eek]

Wait till everything comes in, then change it all at once. Makes your life easier. Looking by the picture you also might need a new sway bar endlink. Use a prybar to bend back the metal so you can get to the bolts. If they are damaged or bent, order some new ones from nissan or go to your local hardware store with that new tension rod you have and find the correct size nuts.

[FaLKoN240]

Hit shit with a hammer.

It's an almost 20 year old car, your arms are already broke, hit them to get what you need.

[corymaloy]

When I take all this stuff off, do I need to mess with the brakes? or are they suspended with the strut?

[prodigys14]

just leave the brakes alone it shouldnt be in the way... had to cut my lca up to get to the nuts when that happen to me

[eek]

Brakes? They are connected to your knuckle/hub. You shouldn't even have to even touch your brakes for the itmes you are removing or replacing. SERIOUSLY, If you looked under the car and followed what is broken everything will become clear. Its not rocket science.

[corymaloy]

ok so I disconnected the sway bar and the bolt was bent a little, also the rubber bits (bushings?) were a little fucked up, but you guys be the judge on whether or not its reusable.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture013.jpg

[corymaloy]

I have unbolted the tension rod and LCA but I cant seem to get the LCA ball joint disconnected from the hub... any ideas?

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture015.jpg

:newbie:

[S14DB]

Hammer ...

[aznpoopy]

I have unbolted the tension rod and LCA but I cant seem to get the LCA ball joint disconnected from the hub... any ideas?

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture015.jpg

:newbie:


popping out the outer tie rod and the lca ball joint will be the hardest. loosen it up by hitting around it with a metal hammer, then give it a good pop from the top and it should pop out.

yeaaaaaaah. unbolt the lower shock mount. will give you more room to bang on it.

[HyperTek]

also check your tension rod bracket in the front of the car, those can get banged up pretty good..

[corymaloy]

It looks ok to me, but heres a pick. You tell me, im the noobie.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture.jpg:newbie:

[corymaloy]

ok so I disconnected the sway bar and the bolt was bent a little, also the rubber bits (bushings?) were a little fucked up, but you guys be the judge on whether or not its reusable.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture013.jpg

So is this usable? I have no clue, the bolt is a little bent.

[Propaganda]

I don't know where you got that bolt to put in there, but mine has both sides threaded

Both sides are threaded so that you can torque both of the bushings in place. The way I saw it is that you only had it torqued on teh bottom

[wangan_cruiser]

1. Take your butt to the junkyard.

2. Find what you know you need, take it off the car, buy it.

3. Go home, take off broken parts from your car, and put parts from junkyard on.

4. Test drive.

5. If the car feels "decent" get an alignment.

6. If after the alignment the car feels funky, you fucked something up.

7. LOL



i agree to him....lol

[corymaloy]

I don't know where you got that bolt to put in there, but mine has both sides threaded

Both sides are threaded so that you can torque both of the bushings in place. The way I saw it is that you only had it torqued on teh bottom


well its an aftermarket sway bar, that might be why. I have no idea what brand or anything because it was on there when I got the car.

[corymaloy]

ok so, I have all the broken stuff out... welll kinda. In the process of taking out the tie rods I found power steering fluid in the boot, meaning its leaking. Prior to my accident I was having problems witht he power steering so I'm guessing this wasnt a result of my wreck. I have been told I can leave the leaky rack in and just turn the wheel harder or replace the rack. Since im low on money I want to get my wheels movin again then I can replace the rack later, does this sound like a viable option??? also... the end of the rack is jsut sitting without a boot... should I put the boot on temporarily till I get the tie rods?

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture001.jpg

[jr_ss]

NVM, you got the ball joint out already...

[aznpoopy]

i don't think it matters. but if you're really that worried, just put a plastic bag over it and secure it with like a rubber band or something. no need to put the boot back on... plus the boot has a big hole on the end anyway.

yeah you can drive on it that way. just disconnect the belt. i would personally just buy a replacement rack. they are like $300 rebuilt after core refund. really not that much money. do it now and save yourself the trouble of getting the car up and taking shit apart again.

[eek]

If your rack is leaking your powersteering will be affected. When you turn you will notice the its smooth then stiff and so on. If you have the funds, replace it since your already taking out the tie rod. If you do, get some new poly steering rack bushings, either Nismo or Energy Suspension. I would order some new sway bar endlinks from Nissan or if you want get some aftermarket ones.

[Sir]

I have unbolted the tension rod and LCA but I cant seem to get the LCA ball joint disconnected from the hub... any ideas?

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture015.jpg

:newbie:


You probably will have same issue with a tie rod.

Hammer is the answer.
But don't hit the thread on top.
Hit the spindle.

[corymaloy]

So is there a trick to installing the new LCA? IDK anything about the ball joints, do I just tighten the nut or wat...:bowdown:

[Sileighty_85]

So is there a trick to installing the new LCA? IDK anything about the ball joints, do I just tighten the nut or wat...:bowdown:

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/IMG_1758.jpg

[aznpoopy]

you only need a press (or a ghetto press - see above) if you bought the ball joint seperately from the lca.

if you bought them as one piece, just install and tighten. don't forget the cotter pin.

[1slowS13]

yep, the lca you got has the bushing pressed in, just install and tighten.

[corymaloy]

Ok guys, well I have all the parts now, finally! cant expect much for $7 shipping.. anyways now I just need to put everything back in, I'm just trying to figure out the best order of putting it all back. Also people keep saying something about making sure both tie rods are the same distance, what do they mean, and how do I make sure they are?

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/newparts.jpg

[aznpoopy]

i think they mean try to keep your tie rods the same length as they were before so your toe isn't totally fucked up. but your old ones are broken and your toe is probably going to be fucked regardless.

just eyeball it the best you can after you're done fixing it and get it aligned at the closest decent shop you got.

[S14DB]

1) Lower Control Arm
2) Traction Control Rod
3) Tie Rod
4) Tie Rod End
5) Sway bar End link

[corymaloy]

so I beat the hell out of my old LCA to get all the nuts/sway bar endlink bits out.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture001-1.jpg

:newbie:

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture004.jpg

[1slowS13]

so is it done?

[corymaloy]

no its not done, im workin on it... but I think its about to rain and I have no cover... :\

[aznpoopy]

men work in the rain. get her done

[corymaloy]

ok guys, LCA has been installed, heres a pic.... tell me if it looks like a f*cked up!

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture-1.jpg


:confused::confused::confused:

[1slowS13]

looks fine, mount it up and take her for a drive! it feels okay, get her aligned

[corymaloy]

welll after I made that last post, I tried to connect the tension rod to the LCA and had some trouble, it looks like something is tweaked. I think the crossmember that holds the LCA is shifted back just a little bit. There is about a half inch difference to where the holes are and where the bolts on the tension rod are. I'm not sure what to do. I think I might try to shift the crossmember and tension rod bracket around till things line up, but its gonna be a pain in the ass! Not to mention I dont know if the tie rod will line up right. I will give it a shot tomorrow.

and also, you guys HAVE to see tropic thunder... its so funny! :keke:

[S14DB]

bolt the TC rod to the LCA. Then pull it forward to the bracket. Would not be surprised if you have to bash the cross member a little bit forward.

[corymaloy]

well guys, I dont know why I was having trouble before, this morning I went out and put the LCA and tension rod in, no problem. (I had them bolted together before installing)

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture001-2.jpg

The thing is, take a look at the tension rod where it connects to the tension rod bracket, it looks twisted! I dont know if its supposed to look like that... But when I looked at the other side of the car it was the exact same way... This 240 was wrecked a looong time ago before I owned it and I think they welded a new front end onto the car, so it may be related. anyways I dont know how long the bushing in the tension rod will last....

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture002.jpg


Somone tell me if this twisted look on the tension rod is supposed to be there please..... :aw:

thanks!

next up, tie rod!

[S14DB]

It's twisted cause it is at full droop. They twist as the LCA goes though it's motion. It will look more normal on the ground.

[corymaloy]

I dont know why I didnt think of that... wow talk about a newbie...


anyways so im trying to install the tie rods and I can't find any information about them anywhere in any of my manuals... its kinda strange...

so anyways I took the broken one off and now im installing the new one. I'm worried because I dont know how hard im supposed to torqe it into the rack, if at all..

Also there is this clip that used to fit the old tie rod but doesnt seem to work with the new one, I dont really know what to do with it. you can see it in this picture, I can tighten the tie rod in, but the clip keeps it from being fully threaded in.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture009.jpg

I was curious how the clip had fit originally so I looked at the other side, here is how the clip is supposed to fit.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture006.jpg

I'm not sure if it even matters, right now Im thinking about just screwing it on there as far as I can and throwing the boot over it, let me know if you have any insight on this!!

Also, just for the hell of it, here is my engine bay! lol

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture007.jpg
:2f2f:

[corymaloy]

ok so I downloaded like 5 shop manuals before I finally found any info on that little "clip". Looks like its called the "lock plate" and it doesnt seem to fit my new tie rod.... also, as you can see in my last post, the pictures from one side to the other look different where the tierod enters the housing, it looks like there is a piece missing. im pretty sure its called the "End Cover Assembly". if my car drove without it before then its gonna continue to do so until I have someone put a rack in it for me.. lol

bahhh its late, im tired, I need to look at things again in the morning before I start making crazy decisions... lol

[jdmstatuS13]

dude i replaced my OE tie rods wih the tein inner and outer...u dont even need that locking plate...

u will be fine and im glad u got most of that crap fixed. haha

[aznpoopy]

u dont need the lock

but at a minimum, it wouldn't hurt to put some lock tite on the threads

[corymaloy]

I'm a little worried about the "End Cover Assembly" that I mentioned earlier, you can see in the pics, it like the cap at the end of the rack, and im assuming it olds all the fluids and shit in there... But when I took the boot off there wasnt one there (there was on passenger side, just not driver side) and I cant seem to find a replacement... Im guessing it comes with a new rack which im planning on getting in about a month. But i just feel uneasy about sealing it up knowing its wrong...

what do you think?:hs:

[corymaloy]

ok so, according to my manual, there is supposed to be a nut at the end of the outer tie rod.... im guessing it tightens it somehow... well my new one doesnt have one of those.. There is one on my old one but the thread is bent. anyways heres a few pics to show you what I mean.

Old outer tie rod...

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture001-3.jpg

New outer tie rod....

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture004-1.jpg

pic of the manual....

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture005.jpg

What shall I do? :confused::confused::confused::confused::confused: :confused:

[S14DB]

Yeah most assume you are reusing the old nut. Get a new nut.

[corymaloy]

Well everything is in and torqed down. Things went pretty smoothly consdiering I'm just now getting into cars. :coolugh:

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture002-1.jpg

Now I need to get some wheels, im thinking some oldschool meshi's but I dont know, I have a really low price range, as in 800 needs to get me wheels and tires. Let me know if you have any ideas or wheels for sale.

Here are my fucked up wheels, both on the driver side, one is bent for sure the other just has rash.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture003-1.jpg
Rear Driver Side

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture004-2.jpg
Front Driver Side (bent)

[corymaloy]

here she is, back on the ground until I get some wheels/tires and an alignment.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture007-2.jpg

[aznpoopy]

congratulations man

[Forge_55b]

for under 800 you can easily find some old school meshies in the for sale section and good job on the repairs. when my friends work on their shit they drive me crazy with their shitty slow ass work......

[Forge_55b]

oh heres some but they won't ship, i can pick em up for you and ship em if u want lol

http://zilvia.net/f/wheels-tires/209757-socal-enkei-92s-mesh-wheels-15x7-f-25-r-0-4x114-3-set-4-w-tires-350-a.html

[corymaloy]

Got my new wheels today. Decided against the meshi's though. I like the wheels I chose, they are the Hanbai DT-05r's and they should last me until I go 5lug. Check um out and tell me what you think! Not bad considering im poor...

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture001-5.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture002-2.jpg

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture007-3.jpg

:wan:

[MunsonAuto]

Nice job bro! Congrats on getting it all done. I really like those wheels btw, seems like a good find to me.

[corymaloy]

Ok so, I put the wheels on, went to les schwab and got an alignment then went for a drive. The car drifts to the left then when you try to correct it to go straight the steering wheel veers to the right. I cant seem to get the damn thing to go straight, its sooooooooooooooo annoying to have to go back and forth and drive with 2 fucking hands!!!

ANY IDEAS on what the problem is? The rack is now longer "power" I filled it with power steering fluid but it doesnt seem to work. Is my rack broken in such a way that it wont steer right? Its the only thing I can think of besides the possibility that they didnt ACTUALLY align my car....

I'm afraid to drive on the freeway with this thing, you have to keep your guard up! so any responses would be gladly appreciated!!!!!

[S14DB]

Yeah, I think earlier people said with that leak that the rack was probably fubar.

[corymaloy]

So do you think the leaky rack would cause steering problems such as the ones im having? I mean its very possible there is more then just a leak, I mean, I did snap the tie rod so I wouldnt be suprised if there is something else wrong with it.

It sucks cause im out of money for a few weeks, blahh! I'm not sure if I even want to try driving it.... I asked the guy at les schwab about a replacement rack and they said they dont carry "that type" of rack there. I guess I might have an aftermarket one and dont know it? I' will crawl back under and check it out soon.

The reason I dont want to replace the rack myself is because it seems a bit intimidating for someone like me who has never done it. I really dont know enough about power steering systems, otherwise I would pick up a rack off here and give it a shot....

I hope its nothing more serious then the rack.. More input would be nice about possible reasons for the problem, and even better, solutions!

:bash:

[Leetheslacker]

i thought our cars PS systems used ATF, not ps fluid?

[corymaloy]

You are shittin me, the guy at the auto parts store assured me that I need that exact power steering fluid......... FUCK!

well that could be the problem.......... Is there ANY WAY to fix it? How do I get that other fluid out of there, if possible?

[corymaloy]

wow, both me and you are newbie? Idk I did some googleing and apparently PS fluid and ATM fluid are the same thing, except one resists heat more. So I should be fine, meaning my problem is something else....

[FaLKoN240]

As long as you haven't been driving it much you should be able to drain the rack and put the right fluid in before it does any damage.

ATF is better for the seals in the PS rack, that's why it's recommended for Nissans and other cars that are specified to use it.

[corymaloy]

Ok guys, so im pretty sure im gonna buy a rack, question is, should I install it myself or hire a pro? You saw how newbie my post's were so you be the judge. I got a chilton guide, some random nissan guides I downloaded, and you guys here on zilvia. Yes or No?

[5t341tH]

nice job puttin shit back together. i had the same destruction wen i hit a curb. tension rod, and lca were fuked. what kinda shitty alignment shop did u go to? did they not test drive it and report back to u? i would go back there and complain O:)

[S14DB]

Only thing you can fuck up is the steering wheel alignment to the rack. The rack has a Dot/Slit for alignment. Make sure you get a Oil or paint marker and mark that point on the steering rack. Then align that with the new racks dot/slit.

The rack has a cradle on the drivers side so you can't screw up locating in in the crossmember.

I recommend getting some upgraded rack bushings while you have it out. The stock ones are like foam rubber.

[MunsonAuto]

The rack isn't too hard to switch out if you've got the time and are patient. But my experience doing it was with full access to my lift and an extra set of hands so it will most likely your experience will be a little different than mine but I think you will be fine with it judging by how well you did the rest of it. I'd say go for it and try it yourself!

[corymaloy]

Well im gonna get the rack in a couple weeks, delay because of fundage... Something else I noticed was that sometimes when I make tight corners or go over a bump I hear strange "stress" sounds. Is this because of tightening the shit when it wasnt under full load or is something comming loose? LOL I dont want to die, ya know how it is....

something ELSE I noticed too, is when Im driving, if I put my foot in it and take it to redline then shift, when I hit the next gear the back end of the car will feel floaty for about a second, im wondering if its losing traction? tis a mostly stock s13................ idk whats up...
:cool:

[kay_arsen]

whats up

any info on the car?

I know what you mean by floaty my s14 has fuked up alignment in the front and i get that

its lack of traction at the front there is some play at the front
i wouldn't drive fast in bends or rain i think your car may have some fuked up toe out configurations

check your tires they may tend to wear out very fast and give you a good idea of how your alignment is messed up

keep us posted on how you fix it

[!Zar!]

I just think this car was trying to put it's self out of it's misery...

[corymaloy]

OK, so its been a while but I finally got my hands on a rack... I got by with shitty steering for a while, it was by no means safe.. Anyways now im trying to figure out how to put it in. I have never worked with power steering so if someone could give me a quick breakdown of the steps I should follow I would be thankfull. :bowrofl:

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture002-3.jpg

[LongGrain]

1) Lower Control Arm
2) Traction Control Rod
3) Tie Rod
4) Tie Rod End
5) Sway bar End link

you do know that the "TC" in tc rod does not stand for traction control right?

[S14DB]

you do know that the "TC" in tc rod does not stand for traction control right?

It's called the Tension Rod, the Control arm is called the Transverse Link. I meant Tension Control but mistyped. What's your point?



OP, what problems are you having with installing the Rack? Just need a general walk through? Get some new rack mount bushings. Stock ones are spongy rubber.

[lolatclint]

:) same thing happen to me but i hit a curb going 40 ahahhaa. it was a bitch to get the lower control arm off from the junkyard and my car

[corymaloy]

Well I can handle all that other stuff, i just dont know if there is anything I need to do as far as flushing old fluids, or anything I need to know about power steering plumbing, if not I guess I could install it on the weekend... but it IS my DD and I do have to go to school so I just wanna make sure I can get it in without too many problems. :duh:

thanks guys

[corymaloy]

Guys, im sick of my oil burning KA... I wanna change it out for an SR20 (or RB20) in the next few months. As you can see from all my posts I dont know SHIT! I dont even know how to use a cherry picker.... But how else am I supposed to learn?

Does Zilvia think this is a good idea? I would be changing out my SOHC, so I'm not sure if that means anything different from the DOHC KA.

If you think this is a good idea I would appreciate it if you guys could recommend especially noob friendly guides.

I think if I actually do this I will video tape the whole thing so other new guys (like me) can do it too.


p.s. Still hav'nt put that rack in, but I think I will do it when I change the motor, that way I dont have to have a ton of downtime for my DD. :l101:

[Monooxide]

I honestly have to say this is the BEST new forum member EVER.

Holy mother of god. I love this kid. He took lots of pics, wasn't afraid to ask questions. He dove right in! Now he wants to do a swap.

I think you can personally do it. Just be sure to research on the swap. The best gain of knowledge in these areas is experience. Start wrenching and you'll grasp it.

I am so impressed.

Do NOT get an RB20. I do not want to start a flame thread on the RB20 but for the love of god do not get one if the debate is SR20 vs RB20.

SR20 is lighter, capable of the same numbers stock and has less rotating mass.

Swap:
JDM Zenki S14 SR20DET swap into a DOHC S13: SR20DET Forum (rear-drive): Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub (http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/323022) (wiring for S14 SR)
S13 SR20DET into a 1st Gen 240SX (http://www.jspecauto.com/files/jspecautotechcenter11a.htm)
S13 SR20DET into 89-98 240SX (http://www.jspecauto.com/files/jspecautotechcenter11b.htm)

Wiring:
SR20DET Swap Engine Harness Wiring Diagram Guide SR SR20 (http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html)

If you ever need help, feel free to email me. [email protected]

[corymaloy]

Awesome links man! thanks a lot! and like my first compliment! woo! haha! :bowrofl:

if anyone else has more to add I would be thankful! what should I consider upgrading on the SR before I install it? I have heard flywheel and clutch are important to change. Anything I could do for some easy/cheap power gains?

I know absolutely nothing about turbos lol :naw:

[corymaloy]

lol for fun me and friend made a flyby vid, i was kinda bored the other day. You can see a flame shoot out the back- im pretty sure its from burning oil. The car also has an ECU upgrade of some sort so that might be part of it too

after a while of not washing my car my back bumper gets charred, again I think from the burning oil. I have to add oil every couple weeks- NOT GOOD. :hyper:

link ===> YouTube - 240 burnout than flyby (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6W8v_b28u80)

[murda-c]

Dude I just wanted to say you're a freakin cool guy.

Props for just jumping into fixing your 240 like that man. I went to trade school and sometimes I still don't feel like working on the thing myself.

[corymaloy]

Since im a poor kid, I am considering venus auto parts, they seem to be the cheapest- offering a full SR20 engine for only 1,000 bucks! (plus shipping)

do they have a good rep?:squint:

[murda-c]

Since im a poor kid, I am considering venus auto parts, they seem to be the cheapest- offering a full SR20 engine for only 1,000 bucks! (plus shipping)

do they have a good rep?:squint:


I've read alot of bad reviews from venus.

[Monooxide]

Awesome links man! thanks a lot! and like my first compliment! woo! haha! :bowrofl:

if anyone else has more to add I would be thankful! what should I consider upgrading on the SR before I install it? I have heard flywheel and clutch are important to change. Anything I could do for some easy/cheap power gains?

I know absolutely nothing about turbos lol :naw:


I would recommend getting an S14 SR20DET, Fuel Pump, clutch, Elbow back exhaust, FMIC, BOV, Manual or Electric Boost Controller and Boost, Oil Press and Water Temp. gauges. That is what I would recommend at minimum if you're going to do the swap. You get away with not doing the boost controller and FMIC but I think you will regret not doing it in the beginning.

[murda-c]

The best thing to do for power is tuning.

If you aren't gonna go for tuning, you wanna at least to a couple dyno runs to make sure everything is peachy.

But yeah, nistune is cool, do that.

[Monooxide]

Since im a poor kid, I am considering venus auto parts, they seem to be the cheapest- offering a full SR20 engine for only 1,000 bucks! (plus shipping)

do they have a good rep?:squint:

I bought my engine and front end from JHOT Imports and I had nothing but GREAT service from them. The items I received were of great quality. They don't lie about mileage as my engine had 78k miles on it and one had 103~113k miles.

The engine you get is a VERY big investment on your part because if you cheap out and get a $1000 motorset and it ends up having low compression or a blown turbo or missing stuff and now you have to hassle with the vendor...now you have a headache and more money to be spent on your side.

I would save up and get a motorset from a reputable company for more money.

The best thing to do for power is tuning.

If you aren't gonna go for tuning, you wanna at least to a couple dyno runs to make sure everything is peachy.

But yeah, nistune is cool, do that.

I wouldn't recommend any sort of fuel management. I would stick with stock fuel management until you decide what you want to do later when you get a bigger turbo.

[LongGrain]

It's called the Tension Rod, the Control arm is called the Transverse Link. I meant Tension Control but mistyped. What's your point?



OP, what problems are you having with installing the Rack? Just need a general walk through? Get some new rack mount bushings. Stock ones are spongy rubber.

just lookin out, homie.

its actually "tension/compression rod"

[corymaloy]

The best thing to do for power is tuning.

If you aren't gonna go for tuning, you wanna at least to a couple dyno runs to make sure everything is peachy.



How do you tune? Do you hire an expert or is there software I can use? Whats the norm? :mepoke:

[Monooxide]

You definitely need to have a decent background knowledge of tuning to be good and be comfortable doing this.

You need to have some sort of electronics that can control either fuel or fuel and ignition.

There are piggybacks(SAFC, Emanage...) which are the low end and usually conisder band-aids for tuning, these modulate signals that come from factory sensors and send out new signals to change the performance of the engine.

Then there are ROM tunes(Enthalpy, JWT...) these are tunes created by a tuner who has a pretty good idea of what kind of fuel and ignition map you would need for a specified setup. You take your factory ECU and ship it to them and they flash a new 'tune' onto your ECU after giving them information such as MAF, Injectors and Turbo...

There are also stand-alones(AEM, Megasquirt...) these are ECUs that come with software and are 100% fully tunable by you or a tuner. You can change a multitude of settings and control things such as fans and so forth.

Most tuning with any of these three items requires a Wideband Air to Fuel ratio gauge and you go to a shop with a Dyno and you make runs and adjust the fuel and timing maps to a desired Air to Fuel ratio level to achieve more power.

You can also tune on the street, this is not near as reliable, nor does it generally have as good of results. However not all drivability hiccups can be removed from just tuning on a dyno.

You will NOT need a tune when you do a swap. You can keep the factory ECU, Injectors and MAF. The only time you need to get a tune is when you change Injectors, MAF, Turbo or ECU.

[corymaloy]

Then there are ROM tunes(Enthalpy, JWT...) these are tunes created by a tuner who has a pretty good idea of what kind of fuel and ignition map you would need for a specified setup. You take your factory ECU and ship it to them and they flash a new 'tune' onto your ECU after giving them information such as MAF, Injectors and Turbo...



It sounds like this is the best option for a newbie on a budget?

So I just found out from previous owner that I have a "Turbo ECU" in a non tubro sohc ka24 car... This would explain the 3 foot flames when I change gears I'm guessing.

What negative effects will this have on my engine? Its running like shit and its just a matter of time before she quits.

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x77/corymaloy/Picture002-4.jpg

[Monooxide]

You'll probably go through spark plugs and have a lack of power in comparison to how it should be. I don't know what he would mean by turbo ECU...but...anyhow... If you could find a stock one it would probably help your gas mileage.

Yes, generally these are ok for people on a budget, however some people have great easy success with them, some do not. It may take a few times of sending your ECU back for a re-tune to get it right. Also, unfortunately with this setup if you upgrade turbo, injectors or MAF then you need a re-tune.

I would personally recommend staying with stock ECU, Injectors and MAF. Then later saving up to get a PowerFC or another Stand-Alone. I personally did this on a S14 SR20DET and the potential of that motor stock really lasted me. It is a very solid fun engine, over 250WHP capable and I was able to get the car into the 12s on 13 PSI.