bolt between coilover and knuckle spindle? help fellow Zilvians!

[G'z_Silvia]

Hi, im working on a friends car that was recently imported. We were adjusting the tein coilovers that came with the car when i noticed a bolt stuck between the coilovers and the knuckle spindle. I've never seen or read about having a bolt stuck there and not sure if this is common. Just curious as to what its for and if i can remove it without any problems. Could this be to aid the coilover somehow? Maybe somewhat of a wedge to stiffen it? If it helps, the car has 5mm spacers on the front and the rims are 17x9 +30 offset with a 215/40/r17 tireon it. So maybe something to help with clearance?

Heres a few pics. Sorry for the picture size, i am a dumbass btw.http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff288/garettzimmer/b038.jpg
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff288/garettzimmer/b039.jpg

[murda-c]

maybe one of the studs out of your stock strut?

[upSLIDEdown]

Probably to keep the knuckle from moving back towards the coilover (causing wheel contact if the clearance is tight). Some people have to pull it out right there, and then put the camber back in with the camber plates.


Hope that makes sense to you, kinda hard to describe.

[let5l1de]

lol thats exactly what the bolt was meant to do. stop from creeping in adding more neg camber due to worn, loose are stretched bolts. good but old concept to practice... but this specific case and design isnt good... make everything fit right without the ricey bolt stoppers.....

[G'z_Silvia]

maybe one of the studs out of your stock strut?
Thanks for the suggestion but it cant be, there on both sides.

Probably to keep the knuckle from moving back towards the coilover (causing wheel contact if the clearance is tight). Some people have to pull it out right there, and then put the camber back in with the camber plates.


Hope that makes sense to you, kinda hard to describe.

I understand what you and let5l1de are saying. Its a "mickey mouse" style wedge to stop the knuckle from moving in and bringing the rim towards the coilover.

Just somewhat confused on the camber plate part. If i remove this will it add more neg camber to the wheel only if the bolts are worn, loose or stretched??

Im guessing for the current setup, i should keep the bolts in to reduce give on the knuckle spindle?

....and if i get some differint rims with a better offset below 20 or 15, would i be able to run them without the sketchy bolt between in knuckle and coil?

[let5l1de]

Just somewhat confused on the camber plate part. If i remove this will it add more neg camber to the wheel only if the bolts are worn, loose or stretched??

Regardless of the warn loose or stretched bolts, it may add negative camber because the spindle and or the strut have elongated holes that will change camber depending on the location you "tightly" secured (tightened the bolts) the lower shock body to spindle. If the bolts are failing, the symptom is more negative camber and possible a clunking sound when corning under load.




Im guessing for the current setup, i should keep the bolts in to reduce give on the knuckle spindle?

By keeping the bolt in, your rim/tire to body distance is increase to accommodate wider or poor offset wheels and keep them from rubbing the coilover. By doing this, you have to only rely on the upper camber plate for any camber adjustment.




....and if i get some differint rims with a better offset below 20 or 15, would i be able to run them without the sketchy bolt between in knuckle and coil?


that sounds about right for 9" wheels an a s13. someone please confirm the max wheel size and offset without spacers and correct camber.

[aznpoopy]

Im guessing for the current setup, i should keep the bolts in to reduce give on the knuckle spindle?

can you unbolt the top bolt on the coilover and take a picture from the side? it looks like there might be a locking bracket there for an eccentric washer, similar to how it is on silkroad rma8s.

if so, then all you need is a square piece of metal with hole drilled off center. this would allow for 4 way secondary camber adjustment and you wouldn't need that ghetto wedged bolt.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a104/kirinpoopy/silkroads.jpg

notice the elongated slot, and a locking bracket that would hold the washer (and subsequently the top bolt and camber setting) in one position.