sr20 turbo manifold

[s14jesse]

ok so im always having problms with the bolts or the nuts from the turbo getting loose and im always having exhaust leaks ..so i welded well tak the bolts so they wont get loose and they still get loose i put lock tight and they still get loose sometimes even come off and i put the little butterfly locks and they brake and the bolts get loose agin so anybody has any idea so they wont get loose on me anymore or 5 a while help!!! im going crazy i had to takke of my manifold like 3 timees in les then a month 4 the same fucking problem so anybody have any good ideas on how to fix this problem?:aw:

[BiG MiKE86]

First off - ive had the same problem - but most of it was my fault - I had no Flexpipe, locking plates, and kept smashing my exhaust into stufff...

Are you using the OEM Locking Plates?
Have a section of flex pipe near ur downpipe or in it?
Exhaust too low?

Check on those things - should keep those nuts on a bit longer

[fromxtor]

metal/teflon locking nuts or drilled nuts w/ safety wire

[boostednismo]

I'm having this exact same problem. So will a lock washer also work?

Sorry to thread jack but what is the best gasket to use?

[BiG MiKE86]

^^Metal OEM - I just got a nice 4 layer Nissan Gasket with my Tomei Expreme kit - Looks nice - ill post the numbers when I get home

Lock washers dont do the job - Buy the OEM Locking PLATES and Use Lock Nuts (FRSPort) sells some nice copper lock nuts that ill be using

[Z33dori]

yea the lock plates will sole the problem at the manifold-turbo connection

but w/o a flew pipe more then likely u will get a leave after the tubro elbow.

get a flex pipe and locking plates.... exhaust leaks gone

[s14unimog]

screw the locking plates, they are such a hassle to deal with. Regardless of quality, the lock washers will flatten out. Nylocs will melt under the heat. What I recommend, and what I did, is use some good studs (not the cheap ones that come with your ebay tubular manifold) and use conical topped lock nuts

They'll provide an interfernce lock and cannot be rattled loose. But seriously get good studs in there, you can get some at autozone, for not much. Since these are interference they will distort the threads some but will come off no problem (reasoning behind good studs)

A gift for you:


McMaster P/N: 93795A230
Class 8 Zinc-Plated Steel Conical-Top Locknut Hex, M8 Screw Sz, 1.25mm Pitch, 13mm Width, 8mm H
In stock at $4.48 per Pack

[Z33dori]

i had good studs they still snap... b/c w/o something to keep the nuts on they fall off, vibration and tension snap the studs or just wiggle them out.

shit sucks..... ruined my spring break twice n 1 week.

[s14unimog]

I'll put money on these nuts not rattling off. OH I forgot, weld the top of the studs so that mother is in there for good. Thats another thing I did

[BiG MiKE86]

I'll put money on these nuts not rattling off. OH I forgot, weld the top of the studs so that mother is in there for good. Thats another thing I did
Hope u never snap a stud :eek:

[s14unimog]

^ why. I'll grind it smooth and re drill it on my mill.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

I'm about to install my S14 T28/Espelir manifold, and got some "prevailing torque" hex nuts from Taylor's, $.43/each. I'm pretty sure they're the same as these:

McMaster P/N: 93795A230
Class 8 Zinc-Plated Steel Conical-Top Locknut Hex, M8 Screw Sz, 1.25mm Pitch, 13mm Width, 8mm H
In stock at $4.48 per Pack

[fliprayzin240sx]

Get better engine mounts to keep the engine torquing and putting pressure on the bolts, adding a flex pipe on your downpipe will do wonders too. The nuts are coming off due to the stress the engines putting on them when the engine torques to the side. Keeping it from torquing will relieve the pressure off your turbo bolts.

[fromxtor]

I saw the ad for these on horsepower tv and thought I would bump a few of the "my manifold nuts keep back off" threads.
Stage 8, Locking Fasteners For Car Engines & Industrial Equipment - Call Us Now! 1.800.843.7836 (http://www.stage8.com/products_lhb.html)