Car Only Runs When Maf Is Unplugged!!! Wtf?

[rps13drift]

So i have been battleing with this car for the past week and its driving me nuts! I can start the car everytime and rev the shit out of it but it will not hold an idle to save its life! I checked timing/vacuum lines/intercooler pipes and couplings all fine! So today i unplug the z32 maf and go to start it for shits and giggles and it idles like a champ! So i recheck my maf wiring and its all to spec. I tried to ground the additional wire on the plug to the chassis and to the existing ground wire for the maf and it still doesnt work and the maf worked fine on a friends car! If some one could please help me out and explain wtf is wrong i would highly appreciate it!

sr20det
jwt ecu for z32/72lbs injectors
hks 264 cams
gt3076r

[Mister.E]

have you ever had the car in a running condition with that particular MAF in the system? if you have then i would try spraying off the sensor with some electronics cleaner from a distance and see if its just dirty or something.

here is a pinout that i found just in case you want to double check your wiring. it said that this pinout is for the stock Z32 connector.

Z32 MAF Pin - SR20DET Stock Engine Harness
Pin B - White Wire (MAF Signal)
Pin C - Chassis Ground (Connect this to any ground on the chassis)
Pin D - Black Wire (Harness Ground)
Pin E - Black/White Wire (Power)

[rps13drift]

have you ever had the car in a running condition with that particular MAF in the system? if you have then i would try spraying off the sensor with some electronics cleaner from a distance and see if its just dirty or something.

here is a pinout that i found just in case you want to double check your wiring. it said that this pinout is for the stock Z32 connector.

Z32 MAF Pin - SR20DET Stock Engine Harness
Pin B - White Wire (MAF Signal)
Pin C - Chassis Ground (Connect this to any ground on the chassis)
Pin D - Black Wire (Harness Ground)
Pin E - Black/White Wire (Power)

Thank you for your response! I have never had my car running with it because i just finished the motor build not to long ago but i tested it on a buddies car when i first aquired it! And the wirng is spot on to what you posted

[spoolandslide]

that happened to me

and it turned out my battery wasn't grounded

[rps13drift]

that happened to me

and it turned out my battery wasn't grounded

I did just recently relocate my battery to the trunk! I put the battery ground wire to the spare tire bolt hole! If i use a circuit tester it shows as a good ground? I just google searched my problem and i saw a youtube video of some experiencing the same sympthons and in his comments it said that the intake/maf wasd to close to the turbo and was cauing turbulence on the maf's reading???? So tommorow after work im going to put a nice long pipe on and see if it remedies the problem!

http://youtube.com/watch?v=MLsZmniSWYs&feature=related

same shit as me! hopefully it will work

[spoolandslide]

well my battery was grounded to my engine so....

i dunno if grounding it to your trunk is strong enough
you should try grounding it up to where its supposed to be
should be straight into the engine block

[FaLKoN240]

I had the same problem, check your MAF with a voltmeter, it should read 18V.

If not, your shit is busted!

[LongGrain]

that happened to me when i drove through a 3ft deep puddle in my slammed s13.

MAF got wet, so it wouldnt run plugged in, ran it for a while with it unplugged, then plugged it in and let it stumble for a while and it was ok after that.

[Mister.E]

since you are running a relocation kit i would recommend sanding the paint off of the contact area for the terminal and chassis. my friend was having mad problems after he did his battery relocation. i checked his ground and it totally blew. i sanded down a good contact area and moved the ground cable to the new area; shit works like a dream now and he hasnt had any problems since.

[rps13drift]

Yeah! I actualy sanded down this area to bare metal! I only have a shitty circuit tester and it showed as a good ground! When i thought that this was a problem i actually ran a jumper cable (ground only) from the negative terminal to the intake manifold and it didnt do anything!

[StaticX27]

Well, everything I can think of has been mentioned...

You mind wanna check your blinker fluid too. I've heard that can cause problems with idle.

[spoolandslide]

no problem bro

do me a favor







and have yourself a fuckin yegabomb!

[!Zar!]

Probably a bad maf.

[SinisterSntra91]

you have a ground going from the battery to the frame, but do you have one going from the motor to the frame?

[rps13drift]

you have a ground going from the battery to the frame, but do you have one going from the motor to the frame?

i have a 2 gauge cable ground going from my chassis to the alternator bracket on my motor! I think think its a good grounding point! I removed paint and corrosion on both before installing! I am trying a friends maf later tonite so hopefully that will rule out your suggestion ZAR!
thank you all
-mike-

[SinisterSntra91]

i have a 2 gauge cable ground going from my chassis to the alternator bracket on my motor! I think think its a good grounding point! I removed paint and corrosion on both before installing! I am trying a friends maf later tonite so hopefully that will rule out your suggestion ZAR!
thank you all
-mike-

Ok well make sure they are all tight, 90% of electrical gremlins are caused by faulty grounds...

[IIIXziuR]

Yeah Grounds are always a pain in the neck I am noticing myself.

[timlush]

I have the same problem on a stock KA24DE. Ruled out the MAF and coolant temp sensor. All grounds are good. What else could cause the problem? Is it possible to have a wrong ECU but still have the car run?

[rps13drift]

I already changed my coolant temp sensor about a week ago! I checked the MAF last nite with a volt meter and its seems up to spec with the car in the on position but not running! Im getting 12 volts for power/.06 for the signal and it increases when i blow on it and also a good ground????????

[rps13drift]

ANYONE HAVE ANY ADVISE????? Maf is working 100% but car wont idle!!!

[timlush]

I'm going to swap out ECU's on mine and see what happens.

[rps13drift]

So im getting ready to light this fucking car on fire!!!!!!!! I made a super long intake today and the maf is no where near the turbo now so turbulence can definetly not be a problem and it still wont idle for me! I even tried 3 different maf's today from my buddies and no luck! The car is starting right up and i literaly have to just tap the throttle every few seconds and the car will run but if i dont tap the throttle the still bogs and dies!


pics of my sweet intake! LOLZ!!!!
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd107/rps13drift/IMG00103.jpg

[SinisterSntra91]

have you tried pulling codes from the ecu homie? Even if the dash light isnt indicating a check engine it still might be throwing a code or codes

[Team DET]

thats getting air for days lol

[Addicted2Kouki]

Triple check the wiring.
I just figured out why my car wasnt starting, wired 2 wires backwards.

[Luvs2slide]

Check the wires going to your ECU. Also for a good ground, you should be getting 2Ohms or less. It wouldnt hurt to check your ECU for codes to make sure it IS your MAF indeed. HTH

[rps13drift]

Check the wires going to your ECU. Also for a good ground, you should be getting 2Ohms or less. It wouldnt hurt to check your ECU for codes to make sure it IS your MAF indeed. HTH

Yeah! Im going to check the ecu wiring/plug when i get home! I just printed the pin out. Thank you guys for all your help!

[timlush]

Well I swapped ECU's and now mine runs like a champ :D

[rps13drift]

Well I swapped ECU's and now mine runs like a champ :D

Gnarly bud!!!

Well i played with the car some more tonite and i keep getting 34/knock sensor!!! Would this cause the car not to idle?

[FaLKoN240]

ECU problems are gay.

[rps13drift]

ECU problems are gay.

I agree!
mssglnght

[rps13drift]

Any one have some helpful info???? please!!!!

[Luvs2slide]

Just throwing this out there...Make sure the wires are good going to it...you can just run a Ohm test to check for continuity...if not then replacfe the knock sensors...IIRC, they are kinda expensive.:x:

[JDS Performance]

I had the exact same problem - turned out to be a bad TPS or wiring it up wrong we wired in a 5 speed TPS on the auto engine harness - and we have a 5 speed motor set

check FSM for wiring and adjustiing TPS - SR S14 FSM EC-135 - EC-136 - EC-137 - EC-204
180sx FSM (japanesse) B-31

I have both of these FSM at my website for free downloads

We actully removed our greddiy suction pipe and z32 MAFS installed the stock mafs and a smaller suction pipe and the car ran and idled fine until we tried to test drive it - it fell on its face under load - no throttle whatso ever.

[Landers]

I have the same problem with my SR it doesnt want to idle that well at all....Good luck man, if i fix mine ill let you know what the problem was.

[drift into a curb]

I'd say it's your wiring or ECU. If you haven't messed with the TPS before, I'm guessing it's the wiring or ECU. Make sure the soldered wire connects are good. Also if you have a stock ECU. maybe give it a go. see if it even holds an idle. Not sure cuz youre running the z32 with 72#, so might idle funky, but worth a try.

[!Zar!]

So... Did you try a different maf yet?

[rps13drift]

Update! Car runs great! After trying 4 mafs and countless other things with no ecu codes I found out that I actualy had a shitty alternator. The whole time i was only running off battery power and when i thought unplugging my maf made a difference i had the battery on the charger still so it would actualy stay running! Thank you all for your help

[WISH ONE]

lol shotgunnin........