Free Emergency Technical support via blu808

[blu808]

If anyone on here has an urgent problem with your car that is considered an emergency. Pm me right away with your situation. I have it setup so it will alert my cell phone. I will get back to you right away (if possible) with my personal cell number and try to help fellow zilvians out.

Also if it is not an emergency. Post up your situation in this thread or pm me. I will do my best to help you out, or point you toward someone who can.

Luke


barry please sticky.

[HIM]

I am also willing to help you if you get scammed via internet. Paypal,ebay, etc.

Message me and I will help get back your money.

[projekt_s13]

Wow luke, that's very nice of you.

You've always helped out the community, like a few years ago when i didnt know shit about cars and you welded and installed my diff.

[GSXRJJordan]

No shit! Way to go Luke!

I've helped out a few Zilvians with their problems, both online and in person. Definitely keeps the community tight and it all comes back to you eventually.

[HIM]

No shit! Way to go Luke!

I've helped out a few Zilvians with their problems, both online and in person. Definitely keeps the community tight and it all comes back to you eventually.


Jeff helped me out beyond anything, after that I realized to put in my effort to help zilvians as well.

[Inland180]

Nice way of showing support Luke!

[womenbeshoppin]

Do your services include free phone/cyber sex?

[s13drob]

yes good idea. greatly appreciated by all

now 4 the emergencies:goyou:

[SochBAT]

Way to go Luke.

The worst part of it all are the folks that'll contact you about the smalllllest of problems. Its happened to me before. And it sucks to say 'stfu noob.'

[blu808]

thanks everyone.

Soooshi: I have been the goto guy up here for many people for years. I have heard it all.
Needless to say I will reply back with my number if it is an actual emergency. If its not I will offer online help.

Luke

[Dutchmalmiss]

Where are you located? Just in case...

[wangan_cruiser]

luke been helping me out for tech probs. WTG!! thanks luke for the help

[steve shadows]

Does this include a free psychic reading and phone sex

[k's_silvia2.0]

Cool thread!
Thanks Luke!
5 stars.

[Landers]

+ rep, way to be man. Really showing positive support for the s chassis.

[ziptiedae86]

ka-t or sr? halp!

hahah jk

+1 for helping the community

[veeates36]

Hey.. Thanks man.. Good Looking out.

[s13drob]

ah ha. how ironic. i need help. or atleast adive/opinions. heres my thread reply 2 that. thanx ahead of time

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=199541

[blu808]

Dutchmalmiss: San jose. But im down in socal often as well.

wangan_cruiser: indeed.

steve shadows: I hope so. Thats the only way im getting anything out of this.

k's_silvia2.0: Thanks !

Landers: Thanks I should mention that in addition to the s chassis I am down with Fc, FD, Z32, Z33, R32, R33, R34, supra, mr2, miata, Ls1 anything, lsx anything, fab questions, etc. If I can help in any way let me know.

ziptiedae86: Kat, Sr, rb, vg, vq, vh, 3sgte, 13b, 20b, ca, b16, b18, b20, d15, d16, l24, l26, lt1, ls1, ls2, ls3, ls6, ls7, I have had a diverse to say the least education some more than others, and this isnt including the Italian or German cars. lol.

veeates36: Thanks bro. Now if I could only get some real projects into my shop. lol.

s13drob: Replied, and what does your screen name mean? lol

[ALEXTHESUS*PECT]

No shit! Way to go Luke!

I've helped out a few Zilvians with their problems, both online and in person. Definitely keeps the community tight and it all comes back to you eventually.

he did help me out one night, but he sure isn't tight..............:cry:

[blu808]

Alex can you please take your old cars picture out of your sig? I have to change my pants every time you post!

[HIM]

I will also help out if anyone has any troubles with scammers, if you sent items/cash from an internet deal. Contact me I will give you my input on how you can get back your things.

[WangonwWarrior]

I need some help, my KA24DET is very inconsistent throughout the rpm's. It might have sucked a rag in the intercooler i dunno. Its a 96 S14 obdII T25 turbo, sr370cc injectors, N62 MAF, FMIC, HKS adjustable wastegate,and blitz bov. It drives fine in lower RPM's it just hesitates a little bit but when i give it gas in the upper RPM's it just sits at 3500 rpm and does nothing then when i let off it jumps. I just chankged the plugs too. Any suggestions?? Or is it that missing damn rag in their somewhere.

[xplicit240]

+1 Your great. just feel sorry for when the people who cant search see the thread but your def giving back to the community.

[OBEEWON]

Dude, Im gonna find you and posi rep you in person. Whats your fav kind of donut??

[blu808]

I need some help, my KA24DET is very inconsistent throughout the rpm's. It might have sucked a rag in the intercooler i dunno. Its a 96 S14 obdII T25 turbo, sr370cc injectors, N62 MAF, FMIC, HKS adjustable wastegate,and blitz bov. It drives fine in lower RPM's it just hesitates a little bit but when i give it gas in the upper RPM's it just sits at 3500 rpm and does nothing then when i let off it jumps. I just chankged the plugs too. Any suggestions?? Or is it that missing damn rag in their somewhere.


Sounds like you need something to control those injectors. Like a AFC or emanaage, or some baller setup using a standalone.

[Fonix36]

It might have sucked a rag in the intercooler i dunno.

you might want to check that out first

But i have a recurring problem that has been getting on my nerves for some time now.
i have a single cam and the cluster doesnt work. causing the trasmition to crap out in 3-5 gears it revs to about 4500 i think and then just takes a shit ive asked around, searched and posted up but have not gotton any luck. :confused:

[bardabe]

where's a good place to get piggy back / rom tuning for an LT1 (01 GMC Cierra) im about to turbo the dad's GM haha

[blu808]

Fonix36: Could be something simple like a grounding issue.
On a really random problem like that I would have to see it in person.

bardabe: You can actually buy a program for tuning Lt1 engines. It is called lt1edit
Thats what I would use. Dont forget to replace the factory opti spark with an msd one if your going forced induction. Or you can convert to the ls1 coilpacks. Someone makes a kit but i dont remember their name.


Luke

[Fonix36]

is that possible?

[youngbrazee1]

My car has been sitting for over 9 months when i finally tried to get it running it would turn over(belts moving)like it wanted to but did not, also the windows or cd player will not workb, but my headlights do. i accidently put the negative on the positive on the car battery. i checked my fuses and the FL100A was blown. i read on how to set my cas and it still wont start. and i replace the spark plugs with ngk ones.

Questions
#1.is my ecu fried?
#2.could it be the starter?
#3.where would i get this fuses from(it doesnt even look like a fuse)?
#4.could the fuse FL100A keep my car from not running?
#5.how do i test the spark plugs?

PLEASE HELP ME

[lazysk8er2]

hey whats up i got a lil problem prolly an easy fix im doing the 300zx brake conversion and was up to where i needed to put a flare fitting inside the bmc in the middle fitting (i have the biggest one from a 300tt). well my friend ruined all 3 fittings on my stock bmc trying to cut it out. is there a way i could just buy a flare or do i need to find a whole bmc and cut that out :duh: thanks in advance!

[WangonwWarrior]

Sounds like you need something to control those injectors. Like a AFC or emanaage, or some baller setup using a standalone.


Yeah i have an safc2 i need to install, but i think the n62 maf i got might be bad. Ill try testing with a voltmeter. and their were no rags stuck in intercoller:keke:

[blu808]

youngbrazee1: I have had that happen a few times. Sometimes it just burns out some fuses, other times it wipes out the whole cars electrical system. I would suggest getting a new car. Or at least a new ecu, engine harness, chassis harness. Sorry but it is really a pain in the ass. Also check all the fusable links.

lazysk8er2: It really depends how bad it got messed up. I would really have to see it. Sorry. Maybe post up a picture?

WangonwWarrior: Well you have to consider that the ecu has no idea that you changed the injectors in the first place. I would hook up that AFC and set the correct values.

Let me know guys.
Manji Parts : Home (http://www.manjiparts.com)

[blackcoupe]

Here's one. I have a s14 SR motor in an s13. It has random issues starting. Doesn't crank just clicks and all electricals work fine (lights, radio, interior lights). To get it started I have to just flip the ignition on and off until it catches and starts. Basically the car starts first try when it wants to.

Battery tested - Good
Starter tested at Kragen - Good
Ignition Switch - Looks fine, I was able to replicate the issue using a screw driver, so it's not getting worn down or anything like that.

[xsublimefrekx]

I have one if you can help. I have a 98 s14 with a ka-t in it and I'm having problems with my speedo. I lowered the car a the harness got screwed up but I fixed that and checked and replaced blown fuses. Now the only thing that doesn't work is the speedo and odometer and I'm stumped on what it can be. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

[Def]

Here's one. I have a s14 SR motor in an s13. It has random issues starting. Doesn't crank just clicks and all electricals work fine (lights, radio, interior lights). To get it started I have to just flip the ignition on and off until it catches and starts. Basically the car starts first try when it wants to.

Battery tested - Good
Starter tested at Kragen - Good
Ignition Switch - Looks fine, I was able to replicate the issue using a screw driver, so it's not getting worn down or anything like that.

Make sure you still have the nub which presses down on the clutch safety switch.

[blu808]

Cold start wire is not hooked up. On the s13s with s14 srs you need to find the cold start wire and put it to the cranking + signal.


Here's one. I have a s14 SR motor in an s13. It has random issues starting. Doesn't crank just clicks and all electricals work fine (lights, radio, interior lights). To get it started I have to just flip the ignition on and off until it catches and starts. Basically the car starts first try when it wants to.

Battery tested - Good
Starter tested at Kragen - Good
Ignition Switch - Looks fine, I was able to replicate the issue using a screw driver, so it's not getting worn down or anything like that.

[blu808]

I have one if you can help. I have a 98 s14 with a ka-t in it and I'm having problems with my speedo. I lowered the car a the harness got screwed up but I fixed that and checked and replaced blown fuses. Now the only thing that doesn't work is the speedo and odometer and I'm stumped on what it can be. Any help would be awesome. Thanks


Did you replace your cluster?

[xsublimefrekx]

no i didnt try that yet, i was hopping it wasnt that. At one point the tach, temp and fuel gauge didnt work and i replaced the fuse and all that came back on. Ill try to replace the cluster

[blu808]

Well the problem with rubbing your harness on the left front wheel is that it can just completely short everything out. You are lucky that those still work at this point. You should try swapping the cluster.

Luke

[bl3ujay07]

I have a problem. Wrote in tech help section, but about two months ago after finish swapping my brothers sr motor (had been sitting for about 5 months) into my shell. It ran perfectly before we stored it (due to college).

After swapping it, and test driving it around the block maybe 4 times (under 2 miles), it started squeeking and then tapping (sound like its coming under the valve cover but not sure). The oil pan is just barely dented where the drain plug is and thats all. I've had people tell me its a rod knock, rod bearing, and/or cam shaft and HLA's because oil pump could be dead.

Tried switching to thicker oil and it got quieter, drained it for a week and added same oil and it got loud again. What do you recommend i do first, new rods, rod bearings, oil pump, or HLA's? If you were closer to 209 area, i would pay for gas and then some you to come check it out.

[Def]

Bang out the oil pan and see how it does. It doesn't take long at all to take it off.

[WangonwWarrior]

Master blu808:bowrofl: i need you again. I installed my SAFC2 and came up with a default setting that i have seen others run and it has smoothed out the revs a little bit but my big problem is whenever i crank the car it idles fine at about 1k rpm then after about 5 sec it slowly dies. I just put a N62 maf on and i triple checked and search and it is installed correctly. But me and a few people think the maf could be bad. Do you think it is the maf or is my BOV causeing this? Thanks -Mike

[90drftsx]

Bang out the oil pan and see how it does. It doesn't take long at all to take it off.

I tried taking out the oil pan but it was hard as hell. Mallet, flat screwdriver, blade to get in between the oil pan but still wouldnt budge. I dont think it would be the oil pan because it was dented when it was on my brothers car and it ran fine.

Shit, just posted using my brothers accounts. Sorry about that

[blu808]

Well not only do Oem SR pans suck on the track, but if they get even a small dent, they can block the oil pickup tube.

The first sign of oil not circulating through the engine on a sr20det will be the squeeking sound you heard. That is actually coming from the cams. If you have heard that noise and it is now making a tapping sound, then your motor is most likely a paperweight now.

Possible things that can cause oil pressure failure:
Oil Pump broken
Oil pickup broken (common on srs)
Oil pickup blocked
loose oil line
low oil level



I have a problem. Wrote in tech help section, but about two months ago after finish swapping my brothers sr motor (had been sitting for about 5 months) into my shell. It ran perfectly before we stored it (due to college).

After swapping it, and test driving it around the block maybe 4 times (under 2 miles), it started squeeking and then tapping (sound like its coming under the valve cover but not sure). The oil pan is just barely dented where the drain plug is and thats all. I've had people tell me its a rod knock, rod bearing, and/or cam shaft and HLA's because oil pump could be dead.

Tried switching to thicker oil and it got quieter, drained it for a week and added same oil and it got loud again. What do you recommend i do first, new rods, rod bearings, oil pump, or HLA's? If you were closer to 209 area, i would pay for gas and then some you to come check it out.

[blu808]

Master blu808:bowrofl: i need you again. I installed my SAFC2 and came up with a default setting that i have seen others run and it has smoothed out the revs a little bit but my big problem is whenever i crank the car it idles fine at about 1k rpm then after about 5 sec it slowly dies. I just put a N62 maf on and i triple checked and search and it is installed correctly. But me and a few people think the maf could be bad. Do you think it is the maf or is my BOV causeing this? Thanks -Mike




On the setup page where it says in1 out1 what do you have it set too?

Try setting it to in5 out1

[blu808]

It only takes about an hour using jackstands.

Steps.

Put car up on jack stands using proper lifting points.

Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the pan on.

Break the seal using either a putty knife, screw driver, and a rubber mallet.

Romove oil pan

place oil pan on sand bag, and beat the dent out.

Check the condition of the oil pickup to ensure its not clogged up with rtv.

Remove all RTV from upper oil pan and lower oil pan. take your time do it all.

Reapply a minimum amount of rtv to the oil pan. (i see sr's blow all the time bc of too much rtv getting stuck in the oil pickup.

Reinstall oil pan, and enjoy!

If it still makes noise and is not leaking you should replace the oil pump and oil pump drive gear.

I suspect that you have caused terminal damage to your engine at this point though.




I tried taking out the oil pan but it was hard as hell. Mallet, flat screwdriver, blade to get in between the oil pan but still wouldnt budge. I dont think it would be the oil pan because it was dented when it was on my brothers car and it ran fine.

Shit, just posted using my brothers accounts. Sorry about that

[WangonwWarrior]

On the setup page where it says in1 out1 what do you have it set too?

Try setting it to in5 out1


Everyone says to run 2 in and 5 out but their is another setting page asking the same thing so i put 2 in and 5 out that setting as well. Im reading 0 air flow on the safc. I read that when installing the z32 maf the white z32 wire must be soldered to the white ka harness and not just crimped. I will try soldering the two together and see what happens. Ill do some more research and make sure i have the safc wired properly to the ecu. Thanks again i wish i could posi rep you:love:

[proxy0000]

Wow I should've read this before I wrote up that thread...

Uh... this isn't really an emergency but whenever you have the chance to do you think you could help me? Thanks .

LINK (http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/217182-rb20-start-up.html)

[S14Jer]

I am debating on whether to pay a shop to do this or have my friends dad (a mechanic) help me with this but Ide like to know what im dealing with first.

Here is my problem, whenever i push the clutch in and put the car in gear it makes a horrible whining noise but when i let the clutch out and its all in gear its fine, no noise. I found this on youtube and it is the exact same noise and time that mine happens

YouTube - Clutch Noise? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_eHyHY2LKM)

I also noticed recently that If have the clutch pushed in and the car in 1st it will randomly barely start to grab and move the car little bits at a time even though the clutch is to the floor.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

Thank you in advance for any help

[WangonwWarrior]

I am debating on whether to pay a shop to do this or have my friends dad (a mechanic) help me with this but Ide like to know what im dealing with first.

Here is my problem, whenever i push the clutch in and put the car in gear it makes a horrible whining noise but when i let the clutch out and its all in gear its fine, no noise. I found this on youtube and it is the exact same noise and time that mine happens

YouTube - Clutch Noise? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_eHyHY2LKM)

I also noticed recently that If have the clutch pushed in and the car in 1st it will randomly barely start to grab and move the car little bits at a time even though the clutch is to the floor.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

Thank you in advance for any help
Throw out bearing, maybe even old pressure plate about to pop. Nothing to be too worried about but fix it sometime

[importdude]

does that PP have Springs?
TOB
Pilotbushing/bearing?

[WangonwWarrior]

does that PP have Springs?
TOB
Pilotbushing/bearing?


M bad i got these mixed up with my chevy. Its probably the throwout bearing, correct me if i am wrong but im 95% sure

[blu808]

Replied to your thread.

Wow I should've read this before I wrote up that thread...

Uh... this isn't really an emergency but whenever you have the chance to do you think you could help me? Thanks .

LINK (http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/217182-rb20-start-up.html)

[blu808]

Throwout bearing would be my guess.

I am debating on whether to pay a shop to do this or have my friends dad (a mechanic) help me with this but Ide like to know what im dealing with first.

Here is my problem, whenever i push the clutch in and put the car in gear it makes a horrible whining noise but when i let the clutch out and its all in gear its fine, no noise. I found this on youtube and it is the exact same noise and time that mine happens

YouTube - Clutch Noise? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_eHyHY2LKM)

I also noticed recently that If have the clutch pushed in and the car in 1st it will randomly barely start to grab and move the car little bits at a time even though the clutch is to the floor.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

Thank you in advance for any help

[WangonwWarrior]

Everyone says to run 2 in and 5 out but their is another setting page asking the same thing so i put 2 in and 5 out that setting as well. Im reading 0 air flow on the safc. I read that when installing the z32 maf the white z32 wire must be soldered to the white ka harness and not just crimped. I will try soldering the two together and see what happens. Ill do some more research and make sure i have the safc wired properly to the ecu. Thanks again i wish i could posi rep you:love:


What ya think?

[S14Jer]

Thats what I am thinking, thanks for the help. I wonder what a mechanic would charge for that... I dont really know where to go to get it done either there are NO good performance shops anywhere near Grand Rapids MI. I dont know if I trust a regular shop to work on the SR20

[S14Jer]

Oh hey one more quick tech question. I bought this car from someone else and he had the BOV hooked up wrong so I connected it to the intake mani. Its a Greddy type R, no matter how loose or tight I make it the thing doesnt work, I still have compressor surge. Any ideas?

[lazysk8er2]

heres the pics for my ques on the flare fitting on the bmc can you tell me what my options are thank you


http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/lazysk8er2/Picture259.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/lazysk8er2/Picture260.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb112/lazysk8er2/Picture261.jpg

[SR2Zero]

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/217262-sr-intake-manifold-hoses-fuel-rail.html

[milesprwr]

Hiya,

I noticed that my engine (KA24DE w/ ~111k miles) idles a little high despite the temperature of the engine. I used to have an S2K and whenever I started the engine cold, it idled high until the engine warmed up and settled down. In my '91 240, the idle will only go as low as ~1.1k RPM despite the fact that the engine is warmed up. Any ideas as to why it does this? What's normal for this engine to be idling at anyway?

[Def]

Normal without the AC on is 750 +/- 25 RPM I think. You can try turning the IACV screw in some, but my bet is you have a small vacuum leak on your intake manifold side(after the throttle body).

[DLo Eric]

Hey Luke, I really appreciate your expertise that you share with everyone on zilvia. Not a lot of people give it out for free to strangers.

On to my problem.

This is something that has been happening for about 2 years and I've yet to figure it out.

3.5K+ hard engine vibrations. Followed with "glitching" cluster. (Would jump up/down slightly on all gauges ie fuel water temp RPMs and MPH)

Any time, through any gear my engine would vibrate harshly from 3.5k and up which makes freeway driving over 65 mph unbearable. About a year ago it was at 4k+ RPMs and I was able to drive up to 80mph without this happening. Now it has dropped.

I've gone through it and nothing is rubbing against anything nor are my mounts loose. However my harness in the wheel well has been rubbed up a few good times but were always rewired/tucked.

SAFC and wideband isnt showing any spikes/dips in either AFR or knock. No Smoke out the back either.

Current Setup:
Blacktop SR (Redtop harness and ecu)
T28 - SAFC - N60 Maf (have a N62 sitting around)
(NGK Wideband)
FMIC/full exhaust/Walbro/Splitfire coilpacks

What could be causing this harsh vibration? is there any more info I can give you to help diagnose this?

[blu808]

milesprwr: I would check all your vacume lines, and intake tube for any leaks. Is your check engine light on? If so I would replace the 2 wire temp sensor which is located on the water neck. That one tells the ecu when its warm. The single wire one next to that is for your gauge.


Dlo eric: Thanks.

Im willing to bet that if you bought a cheap volt meter and hooked it up directly to your battery and drove around you would find your voltage dropping below 10 volts when that problem is occurring. I would bet that your alternator is slowly dieing out. and over time the voltage keeps dropping. An sr uses more and more energy at higher load (rpm) levels, and if the voltage drops too low the coil pack cannot fire the spark plug.

Let me know.
Luke

[milesprwr]

Thanks, I'll go ahead and check the lines for leaks.

No, the check engine light is not on.

[DLo Eric]

Dlo eric: Thanks.

Im willing to bet that if you bought a cheap volt meter and hooked it up directly to your battery and drove around you would find your voltage dropping below 10 volts when that problem is occurring. I would bet that your alternator is slowly dieing out. and over time the voltage keeps dropping. An sr uses more and more energy at higher load (rpm) levels, and if the voltage drops too low the coil pack cannot fire the spark plug.

Let me know.
Luke

That is quite possibly dead on. I've been experimenting with grounding thinking it might be the issue but is there a process to check it with a multimeter? Considering I'm running the stock alternator from the original redtop from nearly 3 years ago, it would explain whats going on.

[KasperSlide]

ok so i swap a manual s13 trans into a 95' auto s14. and as most know the speedo reads double the mph. so to rectify the problem i bought a s14 manual VSS. but it still is reading double the mph. soooooo..... anyone of you crazy kidz know what i can do.
p.s. ive already searched and have pm'ed ppl that have had the same prob with no response nor were there post's answered.

[blu808]

maybe they gave you the wrong speedo sens.

[trust187]

Its great your doing this Luke. Well heres my problem, car battery died a couple of weeks ago, and I tried to jump it, but it seems I wired the cables or something wrong and all the electrical units in my car fried. Nothing electrical works except for the headlights so assuming my fuses are fried. The car still starts but the alternator does not charge the battery. I've changed the alternator and gotten a new battery since then, but the battery still does not get charged. Any ideas?

[Fonix36]

hey im still having problems with the stupid tac i have tried everything i even fallowed each wire to make sure they wornt burnt or something

[moses]

Hey i got a question. what setting should I use on my greddy profec spec 2 with a gt2871r? would it be the same settings as I had it on the stock turbo or little higher? also would you happen to know the stock psi on a gt2871r wastegate and do you know if a different turbo will make my greddy blow off valve sound different?

[blu808]

Its great your doing this Luke. Well heres my problem, car battery died a couple of weeks ago, and I tried to jump it, but it seems I wired the cables or something wrong and all the electrical units in my car fried. Nothing electrical works except for the headlights so assuming my fuses are fried. The car still starts but the alternator does not charge the battery. I've changed the alternator and gotten a new battery since then, but the battery still does not get charged. Any ideas?


Most likely it is your fusible link on the power cable.

[blu808]

hey im still having problems with the stupid tac i have tried everything i even fallowed each wire to make sure they wornt burnt or something

Did you replace the gauge cluster?

[blu808]

Hey i got a question. what setting should I use on my greddy profec spec 2 with a gt2871r? would it be the same settings as I had it on the stock turbo or little higher? also would you happen to know the stock psi on a gt2871r wastegate and do you know if a different turbo will make my greddy blow off valve sound different?

Setting for what? Are you trying to set it for a certain boost level? If so get a boost gauge and just keep turning it up until you reach the desired boost. And turn the gain up until you get some over boost, then back it off.

Also on the wastegate there are many different ones available for that turbo, you can put a vac pump on it and pump it up till it opens, that will tell you which one you have.

Different boost levels, flow levels will change sounds on bov, exh, intake, ect.

[FIlthy 24O]

BLU808 ur pm are full please pm me i have a question to ask about side job THANKS

[blu808]

Pm's cleared.

[PBucch]

blu, how can I tell if my KA's AICV air regulator is good or not? I have it removed from the car. I have a multimeter to test it, thanks.

[duffman1278]

I've got a question, for some reason when I'm at a complete stop, or red light, my engine will idle fine and smooth for about 1-2min. after that the engine shakes and you can feel the whole car shake. I've checked for boost leaks with a DIY boost leak tester, and my vacuum lines are brand new. Can't seem to figure out whats causing it. What could be causing this?

[whatda]

my fuse for the tail lights keeps on blowing every time i put in a new one
every time i turn the head lights on the head lights only go on but not the gage cluster and the running lights

the car is a 90's sohc with a ground kit thing


please help its been like this for 4 moths

[Fonix36]

yes i did sr
Did you replace the gauge cluster?
lol

[blu808]

yes u did sr

I replaced it?

[steve shadows]

emergency: what happened with the bonneville project!? :aw::)

[Fonix36]

my bad i did

[RUTH'LESSDET]

Okay so basically Im running a 2006 gto ls2 in my 97 nissan 240sx but I need some help with my current setup because im getting to much fuel pressure(65-70psi) and I cant seem to "regulate" the pressure. Ill start by saying im running a walboro 255lph in tank pump/ into a 99+ vette fuel filter&reg/and one single line up the length of the car into a aeromotive fpr/and then into the rail(everything -6an)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v481/ruthlessdet/GTO%20SWAP/CIMG1450.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v481/ruthlessdet/GTO%20SWAP/IMG_0023.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v481/ruthlessdet/GTO%20SWAP/IMG_0028.jpg
2 lines from the tank and 1 single output up to the fpr and then the rail
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v481/ruthlessdet/GTO%20SWAP/IMG_0029.jpg
picture of line going toward the rail.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v481/ruthlessdet/GTO%20SWAP/IMG_0018.jpg
This is an old picture of how the single line enters the fpr I have it coming in the left inlet and out the right inlet, and the return port blocked off.....And obviously this is the culperate but how should this part be changed?
why is the pressure so high shouldn't the vette regulator/filter be doing its job?
would entering through the left inlet port and out the return line port is this even possible?
I need your expert advice

Thanx in advance

[HunsakerS14]

Yesterday morning I go to start my car and nothin. as if the batterys dead. tried again and made a clicking noise. I was the only one home so I tried push startin it. was unsuccesful. call my buddy up to have him come jump me and as hes pullin into my driveway I just try to start it for the hell of it and vrooom... starts perfectly. ran fine all day/night. get up this morning to go to work and try to start it, nothin again. try it again and only clicking. (luckily my mom was home so I barrowed her car...) I dont know if its just my battery/starter/alternator... so you got any ideas?

[RUTH'LESSDET]

hey luke whats good man no more help????

[blu808]

emergency: what happened with the bonneville project!? :aw::)

Ive been to busy giving away free help to build my fc. lol. Naa more updates coming soon. I still need to get with you about tuning it.

fonix36: no idea man. have you tried hooking up an aftermarket tach and see if the problem persists?

RUTH'LESSDET: pm me for my cell number, or give me a ring if you already have it.

HunsakerS14: loose connection somewhere. I would check battery terminal connections, grounds, starter power wire connection.

[SR2Zero]

Ok, so I've finally got my sr to the point im ready to crank. I turned the motor over, fuel pump primes, and gas comes out from the bottom of my injectors. (They're yellow top, at the bottom where the cap isn't and the yellow is showing)Is it o-rings or what?

[blu808]

So. fuel was gushing out from where it meets the intake manifold? that is not good. For 1 fuel should not be getting past the lower o rings at all. that is low pressure, etc. Usually when an o ring goes bad it will be from where the injector meets the rail.



BTW: ATTENTION EVERYONE.

I have been getting over 100 Pm's a week about this free help. So here is what I am proposing. Please send me a donation to my paypal for my time. Only send me a donation if my advice resolves your problem. I dont care if it is $1 or $10. Thanks.

Luke

Paypal= [email protected]

[deadghost]

This guy is the best, thank you so much.

[GSXRJJordan]

Attention: Since my "sizeable" contribution earlier, Luke is no longer accepting sperm donations. Just US Dollars, he says.

On a no-homo note, sounds like a good idea - your time is definitely valuable, and I'm sure it's worth it to the people you help.

[SR2Zero]

So. fuel was gushing out from where it meets the intake manifold? that is not good. For 1 fuel should not be getting past the lower o rings at all. that is low pressure, etc. Usually when an o ring goes bad it will be from where the injector meets the rail.


Paypal= [email protected]

I retract my previous statement. It's leaking out of the rail, right where you can see the visible part of the injector top. It's not really gushing, not dribbling either though. O-rings? It's happening on 3/4 the injectors.

[blu808]

Sounds like the injector to rail o rings. They should always be replaced whenever an injector is removed.

[tre4s13]

Well, I hope you can help me with this:

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/223548-ka24de-shorting.html

[blackcoupe]

Here's one. I have a s14 SR motor in an s13. It has random issues starting. Doesn't crank just clicks and all electricals work fine (lights, radio, interior lights). To get it started I have to just flip the ignition on and off until it catches and starts. Basically the car starts first try when it wants to.

Battery tested - Good
Starter tested at Kragen - Good
Ignition Switch - Looks fine, I was able to replicate the issue using a screw driver, so it's not getting worn down or anything like that.


You told me to check the cold start wire....well heres the thing...the car was running fine for like a month before this issue started. Could the starter still be bad even if it checks out okay at kragen.

[slw240sx]

yes starters can check out good even if they are bad. alot of times there is a internal short around the motor windings. i have had a few bad ones on KA's there is a wire in the end cap i think it is that the insulation on it can rub through and cause a short and keep it from cranking over. It has been years and years since this last happened to me so i forget exactly where the wire was rubbing, but i fixed it myself and never had the problem again.
I have also had more then one brand new starter from parts stores go into cars start once or twice and then not start again, then take it for testing and it works.

[GSXRJJordan]

yes starters can check out good even if they are bad. alot of times there is a internal short around the motor windings. i have had a few bad ones on KA's there is a wire in the end cap i think it is that the insulation on it can rub through and cause a short and keep it from cranking over. It has been years and years since this last happened to me so i forget exactly where the wire was rubbing, but i fixed it myself and never had the problem again.
I have also had more then one brand new starter from parts stores go into cars start once or twice and then not start again, then take it for testing and it works.

That's true, but not most of the time - check the connections and condition of the huge black/red wire coming off your starter going to the battery + terminal. If it's good, get the starter rebuilt.

[blackcoupe]

sounds good guys. thanks

[mrgrape]

woot woot, once i buy my s14 and have problems
you will be my go to guy!

[silbeer]

Luke,

Got a problem for you. The engine seems to stall on me randomly. When I'm driving the engine just cuts out. This happens randomly like waiting at a light and driving on the freeway. I've noticed it happen at different RPMs, all gears, any temperature. It's weird because since it's random I can't find the condition that makes this happen. After it happens I pull over and try to restart the car. The engine won't always start up right away but it will always crank. As soon as it starts I can drive away no problem. I've checked for loose cables (etc) but no luck. If you know a quick fix for this I would be most grateful.

Also, I'd rather pay for your time so if I could make an appointment at Manji for diagnostic/repairs please PM me so i can get in touch with you. I'm pretty much free the next 2 weeks.

Thanks

[kingkilburn]

SOS
I have a no start issue. My engine seems to randomly decide when it will crank. I know I am getting power and have no blown fuses. It can be push started as well. What do you think?

[blueshark123]

SOS
I have a no start issue. My engine seems to randomly decide when it will crank. I know I am getting power and have no blown fuses. It can be push started as well. What do you think?

sounds like a bad starter

[kingkilburn]

That's what I was thinking but it was a very sudden problem. It never has been a week starter, always starts on like the first or second turn over.

[blu808]

pm me peoples.