View Full Version : Just bought a 240sx!
Firelance
12-04-2002, 10:56 PM
Just picked up at 240sx 1989, black, with HUD and 150k on the clock. Everything runs fine (and the owner offered to fix what didn't) and it's pretty clean. Ran good, shifted fine, except third to second was pretty violent, even with double clutching but there wasn't any grinding or resistence. Paid 1200 dollars.
However, there is some exterior issues with the car. Both drivers and passneger side front quarter panels don't look great, the hood doesn't look great and neither does the front bumper. I don't up to date on cosmetic stuff so any suggestions on what to do about it? It doesn't look horrible but the paint on the rear car looks good so I would want the front to also look good.
Also, the headlights are good, but I was thinking about picking about some stanley raybrig H4 conversions as I've heard a lot of good things about them.
Oh and here is the future upgrade list:
whiteline anti-sway/strut bars
Kyb Agx shocks
Not short which springs yet (any suggestions?)
Camber adjustment
Full bushing replacement
Flywheel/Clutch.
After this I was considering a CA18DET swap, any place I can get more info on this swap?
Tyler Durdan
12-04-2002, 11:38 PM
Congrats on the pickup.
Stock body part replacements:
Nissan autobody store (http://www.nissanautobodypartstore.com/)
Nissan Courtesy Parts (http://www.courtesyparts.com/)
Info on swap (sr info, but still useful info):
Heavy Throttle (http://www.srswap.com/)<---check the install faq section (excellent info).
As for springs....eibach pro kits always get a good review with the agx shocks/struts. One thing to keep an eye on the s13's is rust around or underneath the rear spoiler....do a search, I think some people have found a way to protect against it.
Firelance
12-05-2002, 12:09 AM
Thanks for the tips, I was also considering the JIC FLT
[email protected] coilovers. Any info on these?
I was curious, if I get a new clutch/flywheel, is this going to be compatible with an engine swap later on? I assume not, same goes for a downpipe? What parts could I safely replace and not have to waste later on? Sorry if it's rather broad question.
Tyler Durdan
12-05-2002, 12:34 AM
No, the clutch and flywheel will not transfer over with a ca18det swap...different belt housings on the tranny. Suspension, brake upgrades, and a lsd will transfer over. I wouldn't waste my money on engine mods on the ka because almost little, if any will transfer over on the swap. Just focus on brakes and suspension as they will transfer with any swap.... <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cool.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':cool:'> .
As for the jic...no info here, but check with google or another search engine.
Downpipe on the ka? Do you mean a mid pipe or racing pipe?
Firelance
12-05-2002, 12:39 AM
whoops, I guess I should have wrote a header, nm, I must be going crazy. Downpipe for turbo, header for NA.
Well, it looks like I'm going with whiteline strut and anti-sway bars. f/r Camber adjustment kit and JIC FLT A2 coilovers (once I get more info them),
I've heard of people doing front end conversions on s13s? Anyone have an info on these? A search here and at 240sx.org didn't bring up much.
LanceS13
12-05-2002, 12:48 AM
nice name <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>
If the front end is really pooped, you might consider doing the silvia conversion; but if it's just dings and scrapes, a good body shop could probably fix you up cheaper than buying new fenders/hood and having them painted.
A clutch and flywheel will be useless if you're gonna swap.
The JIC's would be awesome, but if you put alot of miles on the car it may not be the wisest choice. They're pretty close to full race coilovers geared more for high performance than long term durability...not that they'd fall apart, but you'd have to have them revalved every several thousand miles to keep them in shape.
A cat-back exhaust will be compatible with about any engine you wanna put in there. Other than that...maybe electric fans. Oh...and it's header for n/a engines; turbo manifold and downpipe for turbo engines.
Get the suspension and brakes like new or better with OEM or aftermarket parts first. The bushings are a great start. I recommend Whiteline poly-u bushings (get everything you need at pdm-racing for about $300). Might wanna look at the tie rods too. New OEM pads and rotors would be a good idea if you don't have bigger plans for the brakes (300ZX upgrade). An engine tune up wouldn't be a bad idea either if not already done by the seller...unless you're gonna junk it right away.
91CRXsiR
12-05-2002, 12:53 AM
my quarter panels are all messed up too.. i think the previous owner spun out and hit something..
i would get a CD player if you dont have one.. and some better seats and just stuff to make ur ride more enjoyable.
Firelance
12-05-2002, 01:46 AM
Thanks for the tips everyone! PDM will probl. be getting a big order from me early next year <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>.
Good point on the A2s, I'm talking to a JIC dealer about something a little less extreme. But I want adjustability, Kyb AGX and Eibach sportlines might be the way to go. I don't really like the feel of progressive rate springs.
Music is the single most important I agree <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>. Thankfully the previous owner had a cd player put in.
About my name, It's my old quake name (ah the memories!<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> , I guess it sticks for cars too.
LanceS13
12-05-2002, 12:14 PM
If you want some pretty stiff linear springs for a shock/spring setup, call up skrperformance and order some KGM S21's. I wrote a fairly lengthy review in the "Reviews" section on the main page. The KYB AGX's pair with them quite well.
Firelance
12-05-2002, 02:25 PM
*smacks forehead* I forgot about the reveiw section.
It seems that the whiteline strut and anti-sway bars didn't get favorable reviews. Neither did the bushing kit.
Anyone got any information on ground control coilovers? I've heard a lot of nice things about them too. GC + AGX + camber plates looks like the way to go.
LanceS13
12-05-2002, 04:13 PM
A strut bar is a strut bar is a strut bar. The cheapest I've seen is the Pilot Motorsports bar...I got both front and rear for $112 shipped a year ago.
Whiteline bars are great. They do very well in fine-tuning car balance...you can definitely feel the difference between each adjustment. However, the endlinks aren't the best design. I read the review and it said something about them not holding up or something. I dunno about that...they look pretty heavy duty to me. My problem is that the bar of metal that was used to make the eye bolt is so thick that it interferes with the mounting plate on the softest setting on the front bar. This isn't really a problem since I don't and probably will never need the softest setting on the front. I do wish the endlinks had a way to adjust their length, so the bars could be static unloaded. Other than that, they're the only adjustable bars I know of for the 240SX, and to me an decent adjustable bar is better than the god of fixed bars.
The bushings they were talking about in the reviews section were the offset rear camber bushings. These are not what I was suggesting. In fact, I consider them a cheap fix and am avoiding them. The right way to fix rear camber is adjustable rear upper control arms, which run somewhere around $350 for the pair. The bushings you want are the t/c rod bushings, f/r lca bushings, and 2 sets of r uca bushings (unless you adjust the rear uca's with camber adjustable one...then you'll only need one set). They are a pain in the ass to swap out. If you're a DIY'er, set aside the whole weekend and do it. If you don't have a hyrolic press, you'll need an acetalyne torch held by a steady hand, a hammer, and the right size impact socket to get the old ones out; and a vice, something blunt to pry with, a friend or two, and alot of the supplied grease to get the new ones in. Due to the labor, the price of the bushings might get insane if you take it to a shop to get done. If all this seems too daunting, at least get the t/c rod bushings replaced...you can get new rods with the bushings already pressed in for $140 from pdm.
As for the GC's, here's what I don't like about the concept. It's a shortstroke shock design based on a non-short stroke mcpherson strut platform (for the front of our cars anyway). McPherson struts usually have wide coils and less travel, while shocks have narrow coils and more travel. It's just two different means of dicipating the energy of hitting a bump. If you put a short narrow spring on a strut designed for a short wide spring, it has to compress more to absorb the same amount of force...but it can't compress more, because the strut doesn't have that much travel, especially if you lower it 2+in. So to keep the car from hitting it's bump stops, you have to run pretty high spring rates...and even then you may not be able to drop it as low as you may have hoped. Not saying to avoid them at all costs b/c there are SCCA ITA 240SX race cars running GC's and doing fairly well....I'm just saying they're not exactly ideal.
...wow, I'm talkative tonight. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>
Firelance
12-05-2002, 04:42 PM
Technical information! Thank you for the information! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>.
I am considering the battleversion set of links for the 240sx. I use to drive an AE86 and his stuff was excellant from what I hear.
Right now actually, I'm just hoping to get the cosmetic stuff fixed up. The window doesn't roll down, though you can hear the motor going and what not. And the drivers side front panel needs to be replaced. Also needs a new headlight assembly.
Also, is the canadian 240sx significantly different from the U.S.A spec one? I ask only because there is a 240sx 1989 manual for sale on ebay except it's from Canada.
LanceS13
12-05-2002, 04:49 PM
The battle version stuff does look tempting.
There's no difference between the trannies.
91CRXsiR
12-08-2002, 01:18 PM
my strut bar cost me 20 bucks. dealer price.. and i love it.. of course seeing as how i never felt a 100.00 one if wouldnt know which is better but i know its worth my 20.00 buks
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