golfer17
05-27-2008, 12:10 PM
Just installed a 2871r with the gt28r housing (p/n 472560-5015) along with a greddy turbo outlet and even though this is a very easy and straightforward modification, I thought since I probably did things a little differently, I would post up a short write-up about how I did it.
First, here is the greddy turbo outlet I installed along with it, and I have to say, I was extremely surprised and impressed with the quality. I’ve purchased an ssautochrome one in the past and immediately sold it because of the poor design and craftsmanship, and I’ve used a megan one before, which was much better than the ssac one, but still nothing compared to the greddy (the megan also developed a stress crack in the extremely thin metal that it is constructed out of). The reasons why the greddy is so much better is not just the thickness of material and the quality and finish of all the welds and joints, if you look closely you can see how each bolt hole has a recession to allow plenty of room for the bolt or nut being used to attach to the turbine, whereas this is not the case with other outlets. Also, inside the outlet where the o2 sensor merges in, you can clearly see how well it is finished.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_138.jpg
Here you can see where the studs for the downpipe were welded in.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_139.jpg
And here you can see where the divider was cutout to match the turbine.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_145.jpg
Here is a comparison of the gt2871r to the stock gt2560r-1 (s14 t28).
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_142.jpg
Here are the lines I decided to use on the new turbo. I have circuit sports ss lines since I had to replace my coolant in line recently and so with the new turbo install I decided to use their ss oil in line as well since it looked to be much easier, however the stock coolant return line is quite easy to install and I did not like the way the ss coolant return line would have to fit, so I decided to reuse the stock metal line for this install. One thing to note is that the banjo fitting going to the block on the oil line is wider than the stock one and so the copper gasket has to be contorted a little to fit and from what I’ve seen in the past, these things have to fit perfectly to seal properly, so I went to advance auto parts and found a couple of packages of assorted copper washers and used the 12mm ones out of these packages for gaskets.
Also, don't forget to add an oil restrictor in-line before the turbo. Though there is much speculation as to whether this is needed with the gt series turbos that already have built in restrictors, garrett explains why it is recommended to go with an even smaller restrictor than the built-in one below (and after all two restrictors will not hurt anything)
"Does my turbo require an oil restrictor?
Oil requirements depend on the turbo's bearing system type. Garrett has two types of bearing systems; traditional journal bearing; and ball bearing.
The journal bearing system in a turbo functions very similarly to the rod or crank bearings in an engine. These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure. If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage. Remember to address all other potential causes of leakage first (e.g., inadequate/improper oil drain out of the turbocharger, excessive crankcase pressure, turbocharger past its useful service life, etc.) and use a restrictor as a last resort. Garrett distributors can tell you the recommended range of acceptable oil pressures for your particular turbo. Restrictor size will always depend on how much oil pressure your engine is generating-there is no single restrictor size suited for all engines.
Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo.
The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance. "
REF- http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/faqs.html#t16
ATP sells one here
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-036&Category_Code=BCS
just make sure you get the right fitting (-3an fitting for taka and cs lines for this turbo) for whatever oil lines/turbo you are using.
I, however, did not add another restrictor to mine, because with both of these two turbos (I would guess that this is not so for other version of the 2871r though), there is already a restriction of the appropriate size built-in, and after seeing all of the oil that had coked up around the restriction on the stock turbo, I did not want two places where oil could coke and possibly increase restriction (however, this is just my preference for this situation). Also, of note, there is no restriction anywhere on the stock oil line or banjo fitting for s14's with the ball bearing gt2560r turbo (this is a rumor i've heard, and maybe it is true for s14's with non-ball bearing turbos, if those are not a rumor as well), the only restriction is on the turbo itself.
Next, when tightening everything, remember all these lines are aluminum threading into aluminum, so be careful not to overtorque anything in an effort to prevent leaks. Lastly, to protect the rubber hoses inside the ss lines from the vast heat produced around the turbine, heat shielding was done with a silicone hose for the oil line and a fiberglass sleeve similar to the ones found for spark plug wires for the coolant line.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_143.jpg
Next, the turbo was prepared for installation by installing the studs for the compressor inlet and turbine outlet. However, the studs that came with the turbo for the outlet were deemed too short, and so longer ones were purchased and sealed in using red loctite and allowed to harden over night. Shiny mechanical lock nuts along with bent washers (these are concave in the middle and function a lot like normal lock washers, they’re not really necessary with the lock nuts on there, they were just thrown in as an added precaution) were used to seal the turbine to the manifold as well as the outlet to the turbine. The coolant line was ziptied to the a/c hose with a piece of heater hose to keep it in place and make sure it does not vibrate against anything. The hks wastegate actuator was set as low as possible and my mechanical boost controller was added to ensure proper boost response (this is extremely important, as wastegate controlled boost will build gradually instead of instantaneously like it will with a good boost controller).
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_140.jpg
Here is the greddy turbine outlet installed with heat shielding using normal heat wrap.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_141.jpg
And here is the finished product. The exhaust manifold heat shield was also resprayed with some cheap plastikote flat black paint good for 1500 degrees F. This stuff lasts up to heat quite well, but always rubs off easily, even when cured.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_144.jpg
First, here is the greddy turbo outlet I installed along with it, and I have to say, I was extremely surprised and impressed with the quality. I’ve purchased an ssautochrome one in the past and immediately sold it because of the poor design and craftsmanship, and I’ve used a megan one before, which was much better than the ssac one, but still nothing compared to the greddy (the megan also developed a stress crack in the extremely thin metal that it is constructed out of). The reasons why the greddy is so much better is not just the thickness of material and the quality and finish of all the welds and joints, if you look closely you can see how each bolt hole has a recession to allow plenty of room for the bolt or nut being used to attach to the turbine, whereas this is not the case with other outlets. Also, inside the outlet where the o2 sensor merges in, you can clearly see how well it is finished.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_138.jpg
Here you can see where the studs for the downpipe were welded in.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_139.jpg
And here you can see where the divider was cutout to match the turbine.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_145.jpg
Here is a comparison of the gt2871r to the stock gt2560r-1 (s14 t28).
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_142.jpg
Here are the lines I decided to use on the new turbo. I have circuit sports ss lines since I had to replace my coolant in line recently and so with the new turbo install I decided to use their ss oil in line as well since it looked to be much easier, however the stock coolant return line is quite easy to install and I did not like the way the ss coolant return line would have to fit, so I decided to reuse the stock metal line for this install. One thing to note is that the banjo fitting going to the block on the oil line is wider than the stock one and so the copper gasket has to be contorted a little to fit and from what I’ve seen in the past, these things have to fit perfectly to seal properly, so I went to advance auto parts and found a couple of packages of assorted copper washers and used the 12mm ones out of these packages for gaskets.
Also, don't forget to add an oil restrictor in-line before the turbo. Though there is much speculation as to whether this is needed with the gt series turbos that already have built in restrictors, garrett explains why it is recommended to go with an even smaller restrictor than the built-in one below (and after all two restrictors will not hurt anything)
"Does my turbo require an oil restrictor?
Oil requirements depend on the turbo's bearing system type. Garrett has two types of bearing systems; traditional journal bearing; and ball bearing.
The journal bearing system in a turbo functions very similarly to the rod or crank bearings in an engine. These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure. If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage. Remember to address all other potential causes of leakage first (e.g., inadequate/improper oil drain out of the turbocharger, excessive crankcase pressure, turbocharger past its useful service life, etc.) and use a restrictor as a last resort. Garrett distributors can tell you the recommended range of acceptable oil pressures for your particular turbo. Restrictor size will always depend on how much oil pressure your engine is generating-there is no single restrictor size suited for all engines.
Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo.
The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance. "
REF- http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/tech_center/faqs.html#t16
ATP sells one here
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-036&Category_Code=BCS
just make sure you get the right fitting (-3an fitting for taka and cs lines for this turbo) for whatever oil lines/turbo you are using.
I, however, did not add another restrictor to mine, because with both of these two turbos (I would guess that this is not so for other version of the 2871r though), there is already a restriction of the appropriate size built-in, and after seeing all of the oil that had coked up around the restriction on the stock turbo, I did not want two places where oil could coke and possibly increase restriction (however, this is just my preference for this situation). Also, of note, there is no restriction anywhere on the stock oil line or banjo fitting for s14's with the ball bearing gt2560r turbo (this is a rumor i've heard, and maybe it is true for s14's with non-ball bearing turbos, if those are not a rumor as well), the only restriction is on the turbo itself.
Next, when tightening everything, remember all these lines are aluminum threading into aluminum, so be careful not to overtorque anything in an effort to prevent leaks. Lastly, to protect the rubber hoses inside the ss lines from the vast heat produced around the turbine, heat shielding was done with a silicone hose for the oil line and a fiberglass sleeve similar to the ones found for spark plug wires for the coolant line.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_143.jpg
Next, the turbo was prepared for installation by installing the studs for the compressor inlet and turbine outlet. However, the studs that came with the turbo for the outlet were deemed too short, and so longer ones were purchased and sealed in using red loctite and allowed to harden over night. Shiny mechanical lock nuts along with bent washers (these are concave in the middle and function a lot like normal lock washers, they’re not really necessary with the lock nuts on there, they were just thrown in as an added precaution) were used to seal the turbine to the manifold as well as the outlet to the turbine. The coolant line was ziptied to the a/c hose with a piece of heater hose to keep it in place and make sure it does not vibrate against anything. The hks wastegate actuator was set as low as possible and my mechanical boost controller was added to ensure proper boost response (this is extremely important, as wastegate controlled boost will build gradually instead of instantaneously like it will with a good boost controller).
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_140.jpg
Here is the greddy turbine outlet installed with heat shielding using normal heat wrap.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_141.jpg
And here is the finished product. The exhaust manifold heat shield was also resprayed with some cheap plastikote flat black paint good for 1500 degrees F. This stuff lasts up to heat quite well, but always rubs off easily, even when cured.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050793_144.jpg