sr20det turbo swap questions (t25-t28gtir)

[mikey060]

i am in the midst of swapping the turbo in my 1991 180sx. so far i have taken everything out and am about ready to pull the turbo. i have a few questions..

1. are the bolts connecting the turbo elbow and downpipe always retarted tight?
2. will i need to rotate the right half of the turbo(the part that connects to the exhaust manifold? otherwise the flange will be aiming diagonaly away from the engine and not straight upwards.
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2553/img2330qn8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/3375/img2336xt3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

3 how do the oil lines connect?
(the one steel line with the round circle and the end)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8769/img2338px9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

(http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=211&i=img2338px9.jpg)

[sldbyuramg]

idk about u needing to turn the turbo but the bolts are always stupid tight because they heat up and cool down alot and expand and stuff...usually you can heat up the nut a little and it will come off easier. and the lines connect with a bolt that is hollow and has a hole so that the fluid, whatever it may be, can pass thru it

[Sileighty_85]

save yourself a head ache, and sanity from risking stripping out the oil feed on the block

http://enjukuracing.com/circuit-sports-sr20det-turbo-lines-p-6679.html?cPath=24_158

and since the S14's turbos compressor hosuing is differ you these will help
http://phase2motorsports.stores.yahoo.net/p2ms15tupiad.html

You CAN use the T-25's inkes and outlet flanges without these you just have to modifiy.

[driftage240]

you have to clock this turbo,its of FF or i mean FWD layout and in order to run this clock the exhaust side over a bit and ur fine..

[mikey060]

thats a really good idea. if i am going to be upgrading the lines, is there anything else i may as well go ahead and upgrade? i would like to run 12psi at some point and not have any problems. im thinking i should upgrade the lines, like you suggest, and the turbo elbow. do i NEED to upgrade anything else to safely run over 7psi? i should mention i have a 3" downpipe and full 3" catback

sorry for all the questions, ive been searching a lot but havent found a whole lot. since my turbo shat the fan ive pretty much been forced into learning how to fix it or fork out the $$$ for someone else too.

[Sileighty_85]

yeah definalty do the Turbo elbow while its already out.
you can run the GTIR @ 12 Psi on the stock set up.

[mikey060]

alright sounds good. should i be upgrading the actuator aswell...or is the stock going to be good enough since im not going to be running 14+

[Sileighty_85]

Stock will be fine

[mikey060]

alright good. i will makes some calls tommarow and see if i can track down some braded lines and an elbow. if i cant, ill order some online. thanks A LOT for all your guys' help.

the mechanics of cars is all new to me. the most i have ever done to a car is install a new 255lph fuel pump which i did last week. ive never even changed my oil so my knowledge is quite limited lol. but thanks to google and most of all zilvia(sil85 especially) everthing has gone pretty smooth so far :)

[SoguRacing]

answer to question #2. clock the turbo so that the exhaust inlet and turbine outlet are perpendicular to each other. _l also, save yourself the hassle and get stainless lines. they're much easier to work with. here's my thread
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=191435
this should help you out. just look at the pics

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii180/danielusami/DSC00536.jpg

[mikey060]

thanks sogu, your thread has been my main reference and motivation thus far, so thank you for posting it
and yea i will be hunting some lines down tommarow along with a new elbow. i hope to have this done within the next few days

[SoguRacing]

cool! i'm glad i could be of help and motivation. it's a pretty straight forward swap. there's just a few angles that need to be accounted for. good luck.

[mikey060]

i found a guy selling these lines for 50 bucks....do they look like good/proper lines?
http://photos1.hi5.com/0035/006/478/5bbZnP006478-02.jpg

[mikey060]

cool! i'm glad i could be of help and motivation. it's a pretty straight forward swap. there's just a few angles that need to be accounted for. good luck.

yea so far it hasnt really been hard at all. a few knuckle busters here and there but thats about it. the only thing holding back progress right now is the 2 remaining bolts connecting the elbow to the downpipe wont break lose...impact gun wont ever work :confused: any suggestions?

also, when clocking the turbo...is there anything i should be watching out for or is it pretty striaght forward---unbolt, the 4 or so bolts, turn one position and rebolt---

[SoguRacing]

I don't think all the fittings are correct. get the circuit sports lines or earls' turbo lines for the s13. and do you see the barbed fitting on the middle line in the picture above? get one of those and slide it into the rubber hose in the back of the engine if you cant reach the hardline in the back. that's what i did. just make sure that the fitting is tight and snug at both ends. ( the rubber line and the SS line.) if you upgrade turbos later on the new lines you will be getting will make the swap that much easier. highly recommended.

[SoguRacing]

yea so far it hasnt really been hard at all. a few knuckle busters here and there but thats about it. the only thing holding back progress right now is the 2 remaining bolts connecting the elbow to the downpipe wont break lose...impact gun wont ever work :confused: any suggestions?

also, when clocking the turbo...is there anything i should be watching out for or is it pretty striaght forward---unbolt, the 4 or so bolts, turn one position and rebolt---

do exactly as you said for the clocking of the turbo. just make sure that when tightening, not to over tighten just make sure that they are snug. as for taking off the downpipe, just disconnect the downpipe from your cat or testpipe and mess with it outiside of the car. also, i wouldn't worry too much about breaking those 3 bolts or so from the downpipe to the elbow as you can drill them out and install new ones. they're probably rusted and if the impact gun didn't work then i dont know what will. breaker bar? you will also want to upgrade the elbow anyways as the stock elbow is useless with the new t28 setup. :2f2f: feel free to pm me

[mikey060]

good idea, i will do just that tommarow

im sure i will be sending you a pm or two in the next few days, thanks for your help:)

[mikey060]

thanks for everyones help thus far...i finally got the turbo out lol. probbaly took about 10 hours just to pull it out. i guess its not terrible for a first timer. hopefully putting it all back together tommarow will go a little smoother.

[mikey060]

well i really need my car to be drivable and i dont have time to get the parts in that i need so i decided to just swap the stock t25 for another t25. everything went well, but once i got everything re installed and i topped the coolant up with fluid it started to leak. i think i may have dropped a copper washed from the banjo bolt so it is not sealing properluy. i am slightly pissed right now. and yes i see why braded lines are the way to go