Clutch is not fully disengaging with pedal at floor.

[alkemyst]

I got my car back up and running right today (my neighbor had my parts since Friday)....

On my test drive I pushed the clutch in all the way while in 1st. Once my RPM's hit like 4.5-5k the car wants to lurch forward.

It shifts fine and doesn't seem to slip at all. Can this be adjusted out?

Which way would I turn the clutch rod? (CW or CCW). I read the FSM but it's not clear which way to go. I have had self-adjusting clutches previously.

Thanks

Å

[DJ_Sunrise]

To create a baseline.. Bleed your setup.. I'm talking like 30min + of solid bleeding. What color is your fluid? Usually the fluid will turn gray/black if any seals in the MC, or SC are going/are blown.

If your fluid color is still clear/yellow, adjust the rod so you have about 1/4" of free play when you press down on the pedal. Dead zone = 1/4".

IMPORTANT!! Do NOT adjust, until you are 10000000% sure you have bled it properly!

Otherwise..

If you adjust and the system is not bled properly, the stroke and range of the pedal will change.. Fluid warms up, warms up air bubbles, and the pedal will become way too stiff, so your clutch will start disengaging itself.

I can't stress this enough.. Bleed the system for 30min, then bleed some more. And once you think you have bled it completely, bleed it for another 30min.

-Bart

[alkemyst]

fluid has some black on the edges.

I may end up doing the slave cylinder.

[MaD1337M3DRiV3r]

i once toasted my flywheel and pressure plate and I thought it was hydrolics too.


Either way I would start at hydrolics, change/check your master and slave if bleeding does not help. After that its gonna be time for a clutch replacement

[alkemyst]

Yeah at 98000 miles today it's probably close to clutch time ;)

[kamikazekid]

also check that rubber line that goes from the hardline to the slave, sometimes those things get old and develope little pin holes and no matter how many times you bleed it it will still eventually go to the floor.... its maddening! and do everything said above. good luck.
as far as tuning the rod, to tighten up the pedal turn clockwise while you have your hand up in there, technically your backing the rod out to give yourself more pedal.

[DJ_Sunrise]

The entire hydraulic system on our cars is a pain in the ass. I replaced both lines running from the master to the slave cylinder. Keep in mind.. if the master and slave are not leaking, you don't have to replace them..The master has many seals in it, and should have no problem working for many more miles. The slave only has a single seal, prone to blowing out when its a cheap after market cylinder. Don't bother replacing the hard line. It provides a better feel than the SS braided line, but do replace the short slave cylinder line..

-Bart

[alkemyst]

I replaced the Master/slave and the soft line with a s/s one. Still has the lurching problem with clutch to the floor as soon as I hit 5k. It wants to lurch forward...I am thinking a clutch is in my future :(...it's a bad time for this so hopefully I can get through a couple months.

Since I removed the dampener I notice I feel a 'tap' sort of in my pedal when releasing the clutch. Is this the feed back the dampener removed? Other than that it's not too much different.

I wish the replacement master cylinder had a stock rubber cap unlike the harder plastic one it came with (my old cap is too loose I think and the stock reservoir wasn't as tight as the replacement either so I decided not to use it)

[alkemyst]

The entire hydraulic system on our cars is a pain in the ass. I replaced both lines running from the master to the slave cylinder. Keep in mind.. if the master and slave are not leaking, you don't have to replace them..The master has many seals in it, and should have no problem working for many more miles. The slave only has a single seal, prone to blowing out when its a cheap after market cylinder. Don't bother replacing the hard line. It provides a better feel than the SS braided line, but do replace the short slave cylinder line..

-Bart

I didn't see any visible leaks, but my master was full of black crap I thought it was just a ring around the top however once I had it out it had a 1/8" thick sludge in the bottom.

[alkemyst]

also check that rubber line that goes from the hardline to the slave, sometimes those things get old and develope little pin holes and no matter how many times you bleed it it will still eventually go to the floor.... its maddening! and do everything said above. good luck.
as far as tuning the rod, to tighten up the pedal turn clockwise while you have your hand up in there, technically your backing the rod out to give yourself more pedal.

my power steering line (reservoir to upper hose) had this kind of problem at the clamps...the hose just had deteriorated and was leaking slowly. It would coat the bottom of the oil pan pretty good even though the fluid hardly moved.

I replaced this hose during my clutch fix...hopefully that's licked.

[alkemyst]

The master cylinder and slave seemed to fix my clutch problem. It grabs much higher and isn't engaging at higher rpms when the clutch is too the floor.

I had to back out the rod so almost no threads are showing on the inboard side of the pedal bracket. At 98k miles, it's probably just a sign the clutch has worn.

Pedal travel and grab are good. I wish I did this long ago, about $60 in parts (+$20 if you want the s/s slave line). Removing the dampener was cake, I had a line bender but I mostly used my hands...

The only thing I disliked was the new master cylinder's reservoir and lid aren't as nice as the stock item. I was going to use my old one, but it doesn't fit as tightly on the base and I didn't want to have a brake fluid leak in my engine bay.