repairing shielded MAF wire

[khilgers]

At DD20 yesterday my MAF wiring ended up making contact with my turbo elbow and pretty much melted it all to hell. We were able to make a hack job splice so I could make the 5 hour drive home. But my question is what is the correct way of repairing a shielded MAF wire? Am I better off just getting an entirely new section of wire or is there a good way of reparing the current one? I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to wiring so please bear with me.

[Adikt]

solder wires back together, heatshrink, and then get some mylar, i believe you can use those shiney birthday balloons they sell at jewel and shit. wrap that up and use some more shrink tubing and tape it to hell

[nicku]

can i use aluminum foil to wrap them and heated shrink them?

[khilgers]

yes, can aluminum foil be used instead of mylar? Anyone else have any additional input on this?

[Viggs]

When I wired my 1jz together, any wires that were shielded had to have the actual metal shield around the wire grounded on one end. I don't know if its the same on nissan engines, but I would suspect so.

[nicku]

kevin, maybe my car's problem is here. Because when I re-wire my car, i found out previous owner took off the metal shield on the MAF. So right now, my MAF wires dont have the metal shield. Could that be the problem that my MAF is bad?

[makulit054]

are you talking about shielding it from the heat? radio shack or any electronic store should have shielding material. besides it also depends what the shielding is used for. on some wire looms the shielding is also the ground. another use for shielding is to block out Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) and Radio Frequency Interference (RFI).

[nicku]

well...Kevin, sorry for jacking the thread a little bit. Now my car cuts off at 5k rpm when the car is completely warm. The warmer the car is, the lower rpm it cuts. When it cuts, I cannot do anything on the car, even I full throttle it, the car doesnt go anymore, it just keeps on dropping the rpm, until 2k rpm, everything backs to normal. But if I step on gas again, it goes up to 5k and it stops again, and drops the rpm, until 2k everything starts working again. Could the metal shield be the problem if I dont have it on my maf wires

[khilgers]

I'm concerned about shielding it from any electromagnetic interference. I have some extra wiring laying around and actually found some that were shielded. I was just going to solder, heat shrink, and wrap with the other shielding I have. Seems like it would be fine to me, comments?

[BIZERK]

I have tried the aluminum foil + grounding the shielding and it didn't work very well for me because the ECU was still throwing the MAF code. So what I ended up doing was running new strands of shielded wire and that fixed it.

i know it's a pain to do but it's pretty much fail proof. maybe somebody will provide you with another viable solution though!

[moses]

where did u buy your new strands of shielded wire from

[nicku]

my question, too. I found some on ebay....but I dont know how many gauges of shielded wires I should buy

[Goinsleeper]

Im having the same problem but with the CAS wires. The FSM says that these codes (11, 12) can be thrown from exterior noise entering the circuit. I would take this to be Radio Frequency Interference. Shouldn't a hardware store sell it. I know of some sold at Home Depot, but i don't know if its the quality we would need.

[BIZERK]

I had some shielded wire from a KA harness that I used. I'm not sure where you would go to get any new wire from though

[Goinsleeper]

lol, turned out i did too. i just cut the MAFS and CAS wires from the KA harness and they were already the exact length i needed ne ways.