5 speed swap progress

[optionS-13]

well, i just got pretty much all i need for the 5 speed swap, i just need to pick up the cross member, lower shift boot and metal ring, and m/t bell housing bolts...
anyways just thought i would post up my progress, and maybe get advice/help along the way! :)

materials:
5 speed transmission
5 speed cross member
5 speed drive shaft
clutch master and slave cylinder (nabaco)
clutch pedal and brake pedal
clutch hardline
exedy clutch kit
resurfaced flywheel
shifter
m/t flywheel bolts
m/t bellhousing bolts

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00001-12.jpg

i haven't really started since i still have a couple things i need, i still have to resurface my flywheel, and get the old motor/tranny out of the car, so i am planning on starting this weekend, hopfully weather cooperates.

last weekend i wasn't able to do much, i just drained the ATF, Oil, and i still have to drain the anti-freeze... i also removed the a/t shifter.. bye bye auto!

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00031-1.jpg


also, i was looking at my clutch pedal, and man the bushing is WORE out to the max, so wore out that the spring ate through a LOT of the metal... sooo.. im not sure what im going to do yet.. tomorrow im thinking about sneaking into a welding class at my school and taking an arc welder and just ticking the spot, then just use a grinder to get it all smooth again, then order a new bushing from a local nissan dealership... check out the hardcore damage.. :s

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00002-11.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00004-10.jpg

and for greese what would you guys recommend? anything special? or can i just use some multi-purpose shit from auto zone?

[deuceforty]

check out this FAQ..

and FYI you dont have to cut up the harness, just unplug it

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=154480

[TTrx7Pete]

check out this FAQ..

and FYI you dont have to cut up the harness, just unplug it

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=154480

So you just unplug the auto tranny harness and use the lower harness wires to wire up the rest of the transmission?

[deuceforty]

So you just unplug the auto tranny harness and use the lower harness wires to wire up the rest of the transmission?

ive never done it before, but you can contact the author of that guide via aim, his screen name is "Re4d Tull"

[Rayne]

While you are ahead of yourself ditch the clutch dampener loop, bleeding the clutch is a whole lot easier with out it.

[optionS-13]

yeah, i wasn't planning on using the dampener... hmm is there a special tool to take those kind of bolts on the dampener off? .. i tried using a wrench, and i kind of rounded on part.. so im afraid to use a wrench for it.. lol

[TTrx7Pete]

ive never done it before, but you can contact the author of that guide via aim, his screen name is "Re4d Tull"

Well its just cuz in the write up the guy cuts the wires and others are saying he could have just unplugged them... its a bit confusing as to what to really do. I'm swapping my 97 from auto to manual and from KA to SR in one step. There aren't many threads on how to do that... So the wiring part has me worried, that's all.

[Wabash9000]

yeah they make an open ended wrench called a line wrench for those fittings.

[FRpilot]

yeah, i wasn't planning on using the dampener... hmm is there a special tool to take those kind of bolts on the dampener off? .. i tried using a wrench, and i kind of rounded on part.. so im afraid to use a wrench for it.. lol

yes, its called a flare nut wrench. they are useful. about $10-12 for the 10/12mm from sears.

good for your brake and clutch lines with flare nut fittings on them. idk what you are going to do now that they are rounded.

looks like:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Brembo_Big_Brake/pic40.jpg

[Rayne]

yeah, i wasn't planning on using the dampener... hmm is there a special tool to take those kind of bolts on the dampener off? .. i tried using a wrench, and i kind of rounded on part.. so im afraid to use a wrench for it.. lol

My suggestion would be buy a line that runs directly to the slave cylinder from the master cylinder .Earls Stainless Steel Clutch Line (http://www.frsport.com/Earls-Stainless-Steel-Clutch-Line-Nissan-S13-S14-S15_p_1221.html)

If not find another hard line.

[optionS-13]

well its not completely rounded, i am still able to take it off i just need an open end wrench

[Modrified]

well its not completely rounded, i am still able to take it off i just need an open end wrench

i agree with rayne. if you can, just get the one piece line that goes from your brake master all the way to the slave.

i have the agency-power line on my car.

[s13drob]

just use pliers if its rounded. i wish i would of heard of a flare nut wrench b4 i decided 2 just cut the hardline and trash :(

[optionS-13]

my hardlines isn't rounded YET, haha when i was trying to loosen the nuts, i noticed the nut wasnt going anywhere but the wrench was.. so i stopped myself... :D

[s13drob]

yea. good 4 u.. i was stubborn haha. GL i recently did this conversion. i just need a new clutch hardline n slave

[optionS-13]

also in this pic is my dust cover missing?

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00001-13.jpg


or is that bronze part the dust cover?

[Aaronsx]

I'm in the middle of the same thing. The rear driveshaft bolts were a bitch. Could someone explain the difference between the earl's and agency power clutch lines? They look to be hugely different, and I don't know anything about clutch hydraulics, honestly.

[Modrified]

I'm in the middle of the same thing. The rear driveshaft bolts were a bitch. Could someone explain the difference between the earl's and agency power clutch lines? They look to be hugely different, and I don't know anything about clutch hydraulics, honestly.

the earl's posted above replaces or bypasses your dampener loop. so, that line will be from the end of your clutch hardline and will connect to the slave.

the agency-power will completely replace everything that is in between the brake master and slave (i.e. hardline, softline, loop, etc.)

[Aaronsx]

Thank you modrified. I will be getting the agency power line tomorrow.

[Rayne]

my hardlines isn't rounded YET, haha when i was trying to loosen the nuts, i noticed the nut wasnt going anywhere but the wrench was.. so i stopped myself... :D

Use some PB Blaster or another spray similar to help loosen up the banjo bolt. There is a good chance there is a whole bunch of dirt in between the hard line and banjo bolt. If you have access to a relatively decent vise use it.

[optionS-13]

is the dust cover and drive shaft supposed to look like this? there is a tiny gap for dust to still get in

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00003-8.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00006-7.jpg

[ManoNegra]

^ There's usually a rubber part at the end. Some play is fine. I've seen people run without a cover at all.
Think you'll need a 5 speed tranny dust cover and maybe remove/replace a dowell pin on the back of the motor to make sure the tranny and motor line up.
Don't forget to replace the auto pilot bushing with the 5 speed one.
Good time to do replace the rear main seal too.

[optionS-13]

alright, to remove the pilot bushing do you need a special tool? or can ya just use plyers? same with the rear main seal .. that tricky to replace?...

i'm mostly likely just going to replace the rear main seal and rear tranny seal.. those easy to replace? haha

also what do you mean by removing the dowell pin?

[s13drob]

yes replacing the pilot bushing and rear main seel is a good idea since ur in there already. u can try to remove the pilot with pliers. may take u awhil or 3 min but theres a special tool simply called a pilot bushin remover that u can find which will take it out in a minute. rear main seal i think u would have to use a flathead, pliers and the poundometer or something.

and the tranny seal. im nt to sure of. but im sure its the same as the rear main seal except u got 2 unbolt the little plate in the bellhousing 2 get to it

[Modrified]

alright, to remove the pilot bushing do you need a special tool? or can ya just use plyers? same with the rear main seal .. that tricky to replace?...

i'm mostly likely just going to replace the rear main seal and rear tranny seal.. those easy to replace? haha

also what do you mean by removing the dowell pin?

go to your local auto parts store and rent the tool mentioned before me. it doesn't cost that much. local checkers here return all your money if you return the tool the same day. with the tool it takes a minute or too.

dowels are the little studs that sticks out from the rear of the motor where you meet the bell housing. they are there to help you line the tranny with the motor.

as far as how to remove the seal. here is a reference. it is not mine, it's from a member from 240sxforum named positron. being replaced pictured below is the front. you can do the same for the rear.

I got my hands on a pulley puller so I could finally replace that front main seal. I tried using a prybar to work the loosened pulley off but I couldn't get it to move without putting a lot of English on it and I didn't want to risk cracking the oil pump front cover.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1810.jpg
3 jaw pulley puller-AutoZone loan a tool program.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1812.jpg
Looks like this.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1813.jpg
Just take the puller and hook the legs on the pulley and get the big screw on your crank pulley bolt. The forum says to have the crank pulley bolt threaded in a tad and to place the puller legs on the 2nd or 3rd ridges of the crank pulley rather than the first.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1818.jpg
Use a 13mm socket to crank on the pulley...
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1820.jpg
until the puller pops it free. You'll be able to see the crank pulley as it gets backed off the crank while you turn the pulley puller.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1821.jpg
Front main oil seal. Part#13510-53J10
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1822.jpg
The oil seal has two sides that are different and it has to be placed in a specific way so make sure you get it right the first time. This is the side that goes in towards the engine, notice the big grooves...
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1823.jpg
and this is the side that goes outward toward the front of the car.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1824.jpg
I first tried to remove the old main seal with a small flathead screwdriver, be careful not to ding or scrape the crank says the FSM. I couldn't really get it out with this small screwdriver. This made me very uncomfortable when I couldn't get it out because I know this is a sensitive area on the engine and I didn't want to damage anything or mess this up. I tried to work the screwdriver around the seal and then tried to pry out the outer edges but only managed to tear it slightly.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1826.jpg
It started to come apart after I ripped it
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1825.jpg
After trying that I got a prybar and in a clockwise motion was able to wedge the main seal out one side at a time...
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1827.jpg
until it popped out.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1830.jpg

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1832.jpg
I took the new seal and oiled it up and inserted it on the crank.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1833.jpg
The FSM says to use a seal driver or an appropriate tool to install the new seal which I didn't have so I just used the old seal. After getting the new front main seal in place, I positioned the old seal directly on top of it and used a small hammer to pop it into place. These seals are very hard so it was quite solid for the poundometer to do it's thing.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1835.jpg
Got it in, checked it to see if it was seated correctly and lined up. Good to go.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1839.jpg
Now is a perfect time to clean this area which is hard to get to with the crank pulley on.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1841.jpg
I would advise anyone who attempts this to place a piece of metal between your crank pulley bolt and the puller screw to keep this from happening to your crank pulley bolt when you turn the puller screw. It dug into my crank pulley bolt slightly.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p260/positron32/album2/IMG_1842.jpg
I put the crank pulley back on. I was worried about mounting the pulley back on...what about the timing marks, how is this pulley going to get back to it's original position? What I hadn't realized was that the crank pulley has a indention on it that matches up with the crank so it only mounts on one way which is how it remains in it's original position so problem solved. I'm going to get a lightweight underdrive pulley so I just barely put the stock pulley back on without torquing it down.


I was very nervous about doing this so if anyone who has done it before sees something that I did wrong then please let me know.

[optionS-13]

oh ok, thanks man, he states that as the front main seal..? the also known as the rear main seal?

also i removed the dampener off my hardline w/ vice grips
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00002-12.jpg

so now do i just connect the hardline strait to the slave cylinder hose?
like this
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00003-9.jpg

[JDS Performance]

Good Luck with your swap - there are tons of extra stuff you can do etc.
:rawk:

[Modrified]

oh ok, thanks man, he states that as the front main seal..? the also known as the rear main seal?


no. front and rear are not the same. the pics are from replacing the front. there is also another seal in the rear. you can use the pics as a reference on how to remove the rear. front and rear seals are similar so the steps on replacing them are the similar.

[optionS-13]

Good Luck with your swap - there are tons of extra stuff you can do etc.
:rawk:

thanks man! :)


no. front and rear are not the same. the pics are from replacing the front. there is also another seal in the rear. you can use the pics as a reference on how to remove the rear. front and rear seals are similar so the steps on replacing them are the similar.

alright will do! thanks

[Rayne]

so now do i just connect the hardline strait to the slave cylinder hose?
like this
Link to picture (http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00003-9.jpg)

When you get the transmission and slave cylinder installed in the car, slowly bend the hard line up toward the slave cylinder. Avoid putting kinks in the hard line if possible. Other wise, yes you connect the hard line straight into the slave cylinder hose.

Clutchline modification (http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/32/47/)

[optionS-13]

alright, i'll be sure not to kink it


also here are some results of my pedal! :)
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00007-3.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00003-10.jpg


also i've been told i have an s14 clutch pedal when i got this from an s13.. haha this true??

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b90/timberlando/DSC00009-4.jpg

[JDS Performance]

I would recommend a stell braided line from the master to the slave - much easier and I like it alot!

You have a PM