BoostGetsULaid
04-24-2008, 09:06 PM
89 240sx w/ Red top sr20 S15 t28 turbo FMIC.
i was driving down the street doing 40 or whatever then while cruising I'd be still giving it gas but my rpms would drop, usually down shifting and then shifting back will let me drive again. When I'm shifting and in the time i let go of the gas and hit the clutch etc etc the rpms seem to drop faster than normal. and when im idling at a light or a stop I'll be idling fine for afew seconds then my rpms will drop under 1k and start to try to keep itself alive and the idle will bounce all over the place.
People told me its teh TPS, i ECU checked and it was a 43. I checked the voltage
Closed: 0.0 Volts
Barely pushing on throttle: 2.20 Volts
Holding same position after 5 seconds its springs up to 5.3volts
Everytime the TPS was adjusted it will go back .45 volts it would go back to being off again.
i got the TPS replaced, the TPS was straight from Nissan brand new and it works fine. and it was adjust to .45v and everything was fine. i drove it to portland thought it was all chill but when i got to my second stop light my idle dropped again and i didnt think much when i was in portland i got stuck! My car would try to idle back to normal but instead of bouncing it would just straight die on me. when i tried to start it, the RPMs would go up to 1.5-2k and then drop down and die again. I'd have to give ti gas when starting it so it owuldnt die.
I run and check the TPS everything is good, so i use another one of my multimeters same thing its good. so then not trusting myself i took it to a shop to get a second or third look at it. They same it was perfect and TPS was put it correctly and everything.
Of course everytime my idle would fly around I'd be smoking out the tailpipe and i'd give it gas to keep it from dying and i'd idle between 2-3k , thus causing a GIANT smoke cloud behind me to the unforunately commutors behind me waitting for the light.
Also if im mashing on my car there will be alot of black smoking coming out of my exhaust.
What could be the problem, I was thinking Temp sensor but i didnt know if the sensor would make me loss power while driving. And sometimes before it's warmed up I'd lose power and i'd get the same sypomtoms but not as bad.
This has been going on for awhile now. Afew days ago i installed a oil catch can and made sure the lines were tight, gave a oil cahnge with 10w30 amsoil high performance oil like always w/ OEM filter. and added a ground.
But i feel more lack of power or loss of power and more resistances than usual. I've mounted the catch can between the radiator and the clutch fan. But they do not hit and if they did hit the clutch fan would sit still jsut allowing my engine to over heat.
Any ideas? I've ran ECU check every days and i still get a 55 (normal engine). I tried cleaning my MAFS and it still runs the same
i was driving down the street doing 40 or whatever then while cruising I'd be still giving it gas but my rpms would drop, usually down shifting and then shifting back will let me drive again. When I'm shifting and in the time i let go of the gas and hit the clutch etc etc the rpms seem to drop faster than normal. and when im idling at a light or a stop I'll be idling fine for afew seconds then my rpms will drop under 1k and start to try to keep itself alive and the idle will bounce all over the place.
People told me its teh TPS, i ECU checked and it was a 43. I checked the voltage
Closed: 0.0 Volts
Barely pushing on throttle: 2.20 Volts
Holding same position after 5 seconds its springs up to 5.3volts
Everytime the TPS was adjusted it will go back .45 volts it would go back to being off again.
i got the TPS replaced, the TPS was straight from Nissan brand new and it works fine. and it was adjust to .45v and everything was fine. i drove it to portland thought it was all chill but when i got to my second stop light my idle dropped again and i didnt think much when i was in portland i got stuck! My car would try to idle back to normal but instead of bouncing it would just straight die on me. when i tried to start it, the RPMs would go up to 1.5-2k and then drop down and die again. I'd have to give ti gas when starting it so it owuldnt die.
I run and check the TPS everything is good, so i use another one of my multimeters same thing its good. so then not trusting myself i took it to a shop to get a second or third look at it. They same it was perfect and TPS was put it correctly and everything.
Of course everytime my idle would fly around I'd be smoking out the tailpipe and i'd give it gas to keep it from dying and i'd idle between 2-3k , thus causing a GIANT smoke cloud behind me to the unforunately commutors behind me waitting for the light.
Also if im mashing on my car there will be alot of black smoking coming out of my exhaust.
What could be the problem, I was thinking Temp sensor but i didnt know if the sensor would make me loss power while driving. And sometimes before it's warmed up I'd lose power and i'd get the same sypomtoms but not as bad.
This has been going on for awhile now. Afew days ago i installed a oil catch can and made sure the lines were tight, gave a oil cahnge with 10w30 amsoil high performance oil like always w/ OEM filter. and added a ground.
But i feel more lack of power or loss of power and more resistances than usual. I've mounted the catch can between the radiator and the clutch fan. But they do not hit and if they did hit the clutch fan would sit still jsut allowing my engine to over heat.
Any ideas? I've ran ECU check every days and i still get a 55 (normal engine). I tried cleaning my MAFS and it still runs the same