Rear z32 e-brake question/install

[95Blue240sx]

Im in the middle of the brake swap and came across something that worried me a little. The rear z32 hubs are a bit different from my stock s14 hubs. It has an extra flange where the ebrake assembly would sit. From the install write ups I have seen they either have the correct hub assembly(with the flange) or just install as is.

The reason I cant use the z32 hubs is because the spindle ID is different from the stock s14. Without that flange it leaves about a .5" gap between the dust shield and the top part of the e-brake assembly.

Just need someone to shine some light on what they did with their install. I wouldnt feel comfortable just torquing down the bolt till it was flush, this would create unnecessary binding on the shoes.

Left is z32 hub, right is s14

http://breduta.com/gallery/car/z32/hubs.jpg

Here you can see the thickness of the z32 flange

http://breduta.com/gallery/car/z32/z32.jpg

You can see the gap under the gold part and the dust shield
http://breduta.com/gallery/car/z32/ebrake.jpg

[Firestorm]

i think you will be fine using the S14 hub without that extra flange thing. mine didn't have the flange either so i just installed the e-brake assembly (that bolt on the e-brake assembly goes through the upright) and install the hubs on the dust shield/e-brake assy. worked for me.

but maybe i'm totally confused and didn't really understand your problem :D

edit again: your outer diameter of the spindle is the same on Z32/S14?

[95Blue240sx]

The ID where the splines are are a lot bigger on the z32 hub. Just wondering if everyone just installed as is without spacing that top bolt that holds the e-brake shoes.

[timlush]

I think those are TT hubs?

[Kouki]

I think those are TT hubs?

Yeah, NA z32 rear hubs will bolt right in, the TT hubs do have a larger axle size.

[Kouki]

The ID where the splines are are a lot bigger on the z32 hub. Just wondering if everyone just installed as is without spacing that top bolt that holds the e-brake shoes.

You should be fine using the stock hubs, alot of people just use some washers to space the bolt out where it needs to be if you're using hubs without that tab on them.

[projectRDM]

I think those are TT hubs?

Bingo. Wrong hubs.

[95Blue240sx]

So people who have done the swap without the hubs just put them on as is?? LOL Im going to get some washers instead of not using anything.

[Giebs]

i was told 2 of the axle washers (in each side) work real well. i couldnt get any of those, so i had to get some from home depot, and drill them out a little so they would fit. but i had to use 3 home depot washers instead of 2 axle washers.

[IIIXziuR]

Just to reiterate: If you use stock hubs, you need to use some spacers to make everything fit properly?

[95Blue240sx]

yeah seems like it. Going to get some washers tomorrow and finish up the install.

[tt99ol]

yeah just use washers, 3/4 inch is the right size
they work fine with washers

[IIIXziuR]

95Blue, please let us know how everything goes tomorrow or when you finish the swap. (Curious, what did you use for EBrake Lines?)

If you can please get some pics!

I plan on tackling the same project in a few weeks and I want to make sure I am prepared, thanks.

[tt99ol]

i literally just finished this swap 2 days ago
for s14 use either r33 ebrake cables or
splice your stock cables with some junkyard 300zx cables
you need the brake assembly side of the z32 cable with the handle side of the s14 cable
get the 3/4" washers but you have to grind them to fit in the dust shield if you get them from home depot,
just take 1/4" off of one side in a straight line
anymore questions just pm me

[DALAZ_68]

Bingo. Wrong hubs.

im thinking the exact same thing...but N/a Z32 did come with this flanged style hub aswelll
here are a pair i sold that came off an N/A
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y162/whopper68/IMG_0682-1.jpg

looking at it again...if u notice the flange has 2 side hole marking...while his only have one

[95Blue240sx]

95Blue, please let us know how everything goes tomorrow or when you finish the swap. (Curious, what did you use for EBrake Lines?)

If you can please get some pics!

I plan on tackling the same project in a few weeks and I want to make sure I am prepared, thanks.

There are a lot of good write ups already here. I would normally tell you to search but Ive been searching them recently so heres some links :coolugh:

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=98131
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=131140
http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm#rearbrake

I was wondering if I the actual hub would be the same with the z32. Say if I were to get the hub pressed out of the bearing and just put the s14 hub(spindle? i dont know the correct terminology) in the z32 bearing. I would try it but I dont have a press so Im just going to use a couple washers.

[projectRDM]

im thinking the exact same thing...but N/a Z32 did come with this flanged style hub aswelll
here are a pair i sold that came off an N/A
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y162/whopper68/IMG_0682-1.jpg

looking at it again...if u notice the flange has 2 side hole marking...while his only have one

It's not the flange that's a problem, a lot of NA hubs have the flanges, others did not. I haven't found the cutoff yet where they changed it, but the later ones without flanges simply have a longer kingpin. As far as the pin in the flange, some have it drilled on each side and you can press it out and move it to the other side, while some only have one hole. Again there's a changeover somewhere during production that no one has nailed down yet. Either way you solve the flange issue with washers as explained if you don't have the flange, and the pins can be knocked out and either drilled or not used at all, you just make sure the kingpin is aligned when you bolt it down from behind.

The reason I say the hub is wrong is because it's a TT hub, larger diameter spline for the larger axle.

[DALAZ_68]

It's not the flange that's a problem, a lot of NA hubs have the flanges, others did not. I haven't found the cutoff yet where they changed it, but the later ones without flanges simply have a longer kingpin. As far as the pin in the flange, some have it drilled on each side and you can press it out and move it to the other side, while some only have one hole. Again there's a changeover somewhere during production that no one has nailed down yet. Either way you solve the flange issue with washers as explained if you don't have the flange, and the pins can be knocked out and either drilled or not used at all, you just make sure the kingpin is aligned when you bolt it down from behind.

The reason I say the hub is wrong is because it's a TT hub, larger diameter spline for the larger axle.


wowzers thanks :bigok:

[95Blue240sx]

I went and bought some 1/2" washers and had my dad drill them to 3/4 at his work. (they have a drill press there) I hassled with the ebrake cables and routing them for about an hour because I thought I installed them wrong the first time and removed them, re-installed the incorrect way and realized it :( sigh what a waste of time. I got one side done thought before it started to rain. Now Im waiting for my brake lines to get here.

http://breduta.com/gallery/car/brakes.jpg

[IIIXziuR]

Thanks for the links dude, Carlos' thread is awesome.
My main concern was rebuilding the drums, everything else seems pretty straight forward.

Let us know how everything turns out man.

[95Blue240sx]

When you look at the drums it kinda looks overwhelming the first time. Once you take it apart and re-assemble it, its simple.

[turbocarslut]

It's not the flange that's a problem, a lot of NA hubs have the flanges, others did not. I haven't found the cutoff yet where they changed it, but the later ones without flanges simply have a longer kingpin. As far as the pin in the flange, some have it drilled on each side and you can press it out and move it to the other side, while some only have one hole. Again there's a changeover somewhere during production that no one has nailed down yet. Either way you solve the flange issue with washers as explained if you don't have the flange, and the pins can be knocked out and either drilled or not used at all, you just make sure the kingpin is aligned when you bolt it down from behind.

The reason I say the hub is wrong is because it's a TT hub, larger diameter spline for the larger axle.

Hey I just ordered some NA Z32 hubs from a junker. It came from a 96 Non Turbo according to the VIN on the receipt. My hubs have the damn flange and has only one hole with a pin pressed in. I have 2 questions:

1. Can someone give me the diameter or spline count of an s13/NA z32 hub so that I can verify that my set of hubs truly is that of a NA z32. (I keep my car in a parking garage and it has to be rollable at all times so I can't take my rear apart only to find out I have the wrong hub)

2. My ebrake assembly was purchased from a member here b4 I got the hubs...I can see the "clean" imprint of the hubs that use to be there. No flange and it looks like my kingpin is a real fat version that did away with the need for spacers or flanges. Does anyone want to trade my fat one for their skinny ones?

I can post a pic if it will help.

[4bangers]

I'm also looking to do a rear z32 brake conversion. I have all the parts ready. however, I want to ask if z32 e-brake assembly will fit onto S14 spindle?

I have a z32 spindle w/ ebrake assembly, but I don't want to swap z32 spindle in b/c then I have to get new shock mount, LCA ball joint, and lots of extra work. So I was thinking of taking off z32 ebrake assembly and mount it onto S14 spindle. Will this work?

[MrMcgarrett]

Yes it will work.

[Poorboy]

go ahead and use the washers to fill that gap between the ebrake hardware and the hub/splash sheild.

one thing though, either make sure its really tight, or use something to secure them so they can't move around. (the washers)

reason being, I recently completed this swap, and I had one side that was normal (didn't need washers) and one side that did, and now I have a phantom jingle on that side when I go over bumps, and I haven't had a chance to tear things apart and look, but my best guess is since the washers weren't a perfectly tight fit (they were a little large for the Inner diameter, and were as close to as thick as would fit, but still had some play) that they are to blame. just a warning, otherwise it seems to work just fine.

[IIIXziuR]

so what are you using, just regular hardware store washers?
Like a stack of them (5-6; how many?)
And what size? 3/4"

[xkamikazestormx]

i just finished my swap yesterday.

i used the washers thats on the axle.

[4bangers]

which axle is this??? ^^

where could I get them? instore?

[xkamikazestormx]

which axle is this??? ^^

where could I get them? instore?

you know how theres a washer behind the axle nut. i just used that washer

[4bangers]

you mean use the washer on the axle nut, and not buy a new washer? so the axle nut is missing a washer? isn't that dangerous?

[xkamikazestormx]

you mean use the washer on the axle nut, and not buy a new washer? so the axle nut is missing a washer? isn't that dangerous?

no. you go to the junkyard and get one.

[bblack_91240]

I don't want to thread jack, but I'm doing the swap to an S13 and I bought the Z32 2+2 cables and they're too long!! I was told the 2+2 cables were direct bolt it. Any help would be great! Again, sorry to thread jack :duh:

[redline racer510]

naw i heard all you have to do is thread the e-brake cable throught the stock locations and your good

[bblack_91240]

naw i heard all you have to do is thread the e-brake cable throught the stock locations and your good

Thats what I thought, but I've got a good 3in of extra cable :aw:

[japslapsilvia]

2+2 cables work fine except you need to make a bracket. when u bolt them in u will notice there is excess cable. all you need to do it move the mounting location back a few inches. the mounting location i am refering to is right by the "T" bar almost in the center of the car.

go to a hardware store and get a piece of 1/8 thick steel angle 1/2"x1/2' wide will do. measure the distance u need to take up the slack, cut the steel and drill 2 holes, one to mount to stock location and one to mount the new cable. done and done.

[bblack_91240]

2+2 cables work fine except you need to make a bracket. when u bolt them in u will notice there is excess cable. all you need to do it move the mounting location back a few inches. the mounting location i am refering to is right by the "T" bar almost in the center of the car.

go to a hardware store and get a piece of 1/8 thick steel angle 1/2"x1/2' wide will do. measure the distance u need to take up the slack, cut the steel and drill 2 holes, one to mount to stock location and one to mount the new cable. done and done.


Thats what I was going to do. I wasn't sure if that was needed or if I didn't do something right. Thanks!!

[redline racer510]

yea what the man with the plan said.