project_s13
04-14-2008, 08:07 PM
How To Install AFC NEO and HKS CAMP in 89-90 KA24E and 91-94 KA24DE step by step
SO to help those wiring handicapped people out there, this thread is for you. I purchased a NEO and an HKS CAMP recently and had to do some wiring deciphering with Japanese engines to the unlisted KA engines. So this is a step by step of my install for those who don’t have the experience and knowledge to do the cross over themselves. If you can figure out the stuff on your own for the NEO use diagram N3-B for the KA24E engine, and for the KA24DE engine use diagram N3-A. For the HKS CAMP gen 1 the KA24E engine use diagram N3. For the KA24DE engines use diagram N2. For those doing this, be wary of scotch locks (2 wire connectors you clamp together) they can create resistance and a bad connection and cause the wire to heat up and burn the harness or melt it. I recommend not using them for anything… EVER
Tools required:
Wire strippers and cutters
Soldering gun and rosin core solder (thin stuff if you got it)
Razor blade
Electrical tape
Neo harness prep:
For this install you will only need wires red, red with white stripe, dark green, gray, brown, black, yellow, white, and orange. I’m personally a fan of very neat wiring. So the remaining wires I pulled back against the rest of the harness, then zip tied and put black tape over them to keep them out of the way. So you should have zipped and taped wires blue, brown with white, pink, purple, light green, and black with white back.
Now take your wire strippers and strip 3/8 of an inch or so of the enamel off each wire. With that I twist all the wires to the right since that’s the way they turn inside the enamel. Making sure to twist the wires fairly tight as for them not to fray apart with handling. Also makes it easier with install and soldering, as you will see in a bit.
ECU Prep:
First take the passenger side kick panel off, if it isn’t off already. Now you should be looking at a fair sized goldish coloured box.
Next, remove the hex bolt in the center of ecu plug. Make sure when you pull out the plug you pull evenly as to make sure you don’t bend any of the ecu pins. Then remove the big white wire cover. If you think your skilled enough to not need the extra room you may just remove the cover as it sits bolted up.
After you’ve remove your cover you will see a mess of wires haha. Do your best to remember how they were all position so the cover fits back on. Now do your best to find the base of the plug so you can count wires. (if your colour blind this will be important) Now as you look at the plug you’ll notice it’s split into 4 sections. You will see a small dip between each set.
If you notice that none of my instructions match your ecu, but the wires seem to be all there. May just be upside down. So orientate yourself accordingly
Neo:
KA24E
1. On third section of the ECU plug from the bottom (big tab side), 3rd wire up. You will find a wire that’s yellow with red stripe. This is your Tach wire going to your dash. It needs to be connected to the dark green wire on the Neo harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge (20 gauge) stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the green wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
KA24DE
1. On the third section of the ECU plug from the bottom. You will find a wire that’s yellow with red stripe (2nd up). This is your Tach wire going to your dash. It needs to be connected to the dark green wire on the Neo harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the green wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
The rest of the instructions for the KA24E and KA24DE are the same.
2. After the hex bolt, second section of plug (big tab side), second up from the bolt, you will find a white wire. This is your MAF (mass airflow sensor) hot wire (monitored wire by ECU). This wire needs to be connected to the white and yellow (read all of step before doing) wire on the Neo. Again follow the wire back about 2-3 inches. You need to cut the wire here, and strip both ends about ¼ of an inch. Take the bullet connectors and covers supplied with neo. You will need 2 male and 2 female connectors so that you have 2 pair that connect together. Using your strippers, one end should have a crimping tool. Place one end of both white (white MAF wire going away from ECU and white off neo) wires, one in a male other in a female. I solder the crimps as well to ensure a good connection and a strong one. Then connect both white ends together. Now do the same for the yellow and white wire going to the ECU. I switch up the ends so, if I decide to remove the Neo later on. I can just pull the neo connections off and the bullet connectors are opposite on the MAF wire, so they will fit together, and I won’t have to repair the connection for the car to run. (Neo harness white should be male and yellow female; MAF wire ends should be opposite or vice-versa)
3. Still on that same 2nd section of ECU plug, 6th pin up from the bottom (big tab side). Is another solid white wire. This wire needs to be connected to the gray wire on the Neo. This is your throttle signal to your ECU. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
4. Now on the 1st section of the ECU plug (Top), 2nd wire down will be a black wire with a white stripe (small tab side). There will be 2, one on each side from each other. For me it’s the right side. But it’s on the opposite side as the big tab on the plug by the hex bolt you removed before. This wire is your ECU power up wire, and needs to have the solid red and red white wire from the neo harness attached to it. I phoned apexi about their diagram on this. They told me that the red wire has to be attached closest to the ECU and the red white was to be approximately an inch further down the wire away from the ECU as the solid red one. So do the same as before. Follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). Do the same an inch further down the wire. And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
5. Still on the 1st section on the ECU plug. On the top wire on the opposite side as the black white wire you just did, should be a solid black wire (big tab side). This is your ECU ground and needs to be attached to brown and black wires from the neo harness. Attached them with that same one inch space you just did the power wires. Brown first then the black an inch away (brown closest to ECU)
6. The orange wire off the neo harness needs to be hooked to some kind of positive that runs the headlights or dimmer switch. Like your stereo dimmer wire or what have you. I wouldn’t recommend hooking this to your ECU harness anywhere as the LCD power wire may draw to much and either damage ECU wiring or the ECU itself.
7. Re-install ECU plug, its harness cap, and kick panel. Careful not to tighten ECU hex bolt too much. Snug it is good it just has to seat completely.
Neo Pin out Recap
PIN# recap KA24E if you have factory pin out diagram
Pin #3 (Tach) Yellow/Red to Green on Neo
Pin #16 (MAFS) White from sensor to white on NEO and Yellow on NEO to ECU MAFS wire
Pin #20 (Throttle position sensor) White to gray on Neo
Pin #39 (Ground) Black to Brown on neo being closest to ECU and Black on Neo being Farthest
Pin #47 (ignition power) Black/White to solid red being closest to ECU and red/white being furthest from ECU on Neo
Orange on Neo to headlight dim wire behind stereo or 12v source when highlights on
PIN # recap KA24DE if you have factory pin out diagram
Pin #2 (Tach) Yellow/Red to Green on Neo
Pin #16 (MAFS) White from sensor to white on NEO and Yellow on NEO to ECU MAFS wire
Pin #20 (Throttle position sensor) White to gray on Neo
Pin #39 (Ground) Black to Brown on neo being closest to ECU and Black on Neo being Farthest
Pin #47 (ignition power) Black/White to solid red being closest to ECU and red/white being furthest from ECU on Neo
Orange on Neo to headlight dim wire behind stereo or 12v source when highlights on
HKS:
1.At the bottom of the harness when its upright (as bolted to ECU)(big tab side) you will have a black wire with a white stripe. This is injector one wire. The HKS Camp needs this wire attached to its green wire. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
2. On the 3rd section (below hex bolt) of the ECU plug (big tab side), 2nd wire up for KA24DE and 3rd wire up for KA24E. Will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is you Tach wire, and needs to be connected to brown wire on CAMP harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
3. On 1st section of the ECU plug, big tab side. Second wire up from the bottom of section will be yellow wire with green stripe. This is your Speedo signal to your cluster. This needs to be connected to the Blue wire on the CAMP harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
4. Still on 1st section of ECU plug (short tab side) 3rd wire down will be a solid red wire. This is your Eccs relay and injector common positive. It needs to be connected to the yellow wire on the CAMP harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
5. Still on the 1st section of ECU plug (short tab side, right above red wire) 2nd down will be a black wire with white stripe. This is your ECU power up wire. It needs to be connected to the red wire on the CAMP harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
HKS Camp Pin out recap
PIN# recap KA24E if you have factory pin out diagram
Pin #101 (injector #1 pulse) white/black to Green on HKS harness
Pin #3 (Tach) Yellow/Red to Brown on HKS harness
Pin #32 (Speedo) yellow/green to Blue on HKS harness
Pin #46 (Eccs Relay) Red to Yellow on HKS harness
Pin #47 (Ecu +, ignition power) black/white Red on HKS harness
PIN # recap KA24DE if you have factory pin out diagram
Pin #101 (injector #1 pulse) white/black to Green on HKS harness
Pin #2 (tach) Yellow/Red to Brown on HKS harness
Pin #32 (speedo) yellow/green to Blue on HKS harness
Pin #46 (Eccs Relay) Red to Yellow on HKS harness
Pin #47 (Ecu +, ignition power) black/white Red on HKS harness
Disclaimer:
I will not be held responsible for any damages. Including personal, electrically, or any other way. Your battery should always be unhooked during wiring of any kind, with ignition in off position. Wiring may work for other engines.
I'll also post these ECU pin out diagrams for KA24E and KA24DE for reference for all. sorry the KA-DE one is cut off a bit. my screen isn't big enough lol.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2079d9t&s=3
http://i31.tinypic.com/2079d9t.jpg
and the E love
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=309hdok&s=3
http://i31.tinypic.com/309hdok.jpg
SO to help those wiring handicapped people out there, this thread is for you. I purchased a NEO and an HKS CAMP recently and had to do some wiring deciphering with Japanese engines to the unlisted KA engines. So this is a step by step of my install for those who don’t have the experience and knowledge to do the cross over themselves. If you can figure out the stuff on your own for the NEO use diagram N3-B for the KA24E engine, and for the KA24DE engine use diagram N3-A. For the HKS CAMP gen 1 the KA24E engine use diagram N3. For the KA24DE engines use diagram N2. For those doing this, be wary of scotch locks (2 wire connectors you clamp together) they can create resistance and a bad connection and cause the wire to heat up and burn the harness or melt it. I recommend not using them for anything… EVER
Tools required:
Wire strippers and cutters
Soldering gun and rosin core solder (thin stuff if you got it)
Razor blade
Electrical tape
Neo harness prep:
For this install you will only need wires red, red with white stripe, dark green, gray, brown, black, yellow, white, and orange. I’m personally a fan of very neat wiring. So the remaining wires I pulled back against the rest of the harness, then zip tied and put black tape over them to keep them out of the way. So you should have zipped and taped wires blue, brown with white, pink, purple, light green, and black with white back.
Now take your wire strippers and strip 3/8 of an inch or so of the enamel off each wire. With that I twist all the wires to the right since that’s the way they turn inside the enamel. Making sure to twist the wires fairly tight as for them not to fray apart with handling. Also makes it easier with install and soldering, as you will see in a bit.
ECU Prep:
First take the passenger side kick panel off, if it isn’t off already. Now you should be looking at a fair sized goldish coloured box.
Next, remove the hex bolt in the center of ecu plug. Make sure when you pull out the plug you pull evenly as to make sure you don’t bend any of the ecu pins. Then remove the big white wire cover. If you think your skilled enough to not need the extra room you may just remove the cover as it sits bolted up.
After you’ve remove your cover you will see a mess of wires haha. Do your best to remember how they were all position so the cover fits back on. Now do your best to find the base of the plug so you can count wires. (if your colour blind this will be important) Now as you look at the plug you’ll notice it’s split into 4 sections. You will see a small dip between each set.
If you notice that none of my instructions match your ecu, but the wires seem to be all there. May just be upside down. So orientate yourself accordingly
Neo:
KA24E
1. On third section of the ECU plug from the bottom (big tab side), 3rd wire up. You will find a wire that’s yellow with red stripe. This is your Tach wire going to your dash. It needs to be connected to the dark green wire on the Neo harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge (20 gauge) stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the green wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
KA24DE
1. On the third section of the ECU plug from the bottom. You will find a wire that’s yellow with red stripe (2nd up). This is your Tach wire going to your dash. It needs to be connected to the dark green wire on the Neo harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the green wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
The rest of the instructions for the KA24E and KA24DE are the same.
2. After the hex bolt, second section of plug (big tab side), second up from the bolt, you will find a white wire. This is your MAF (mass airflow sensor) hot wire (monitored wire by ECU). This wire needs to be connected to the white and yellow (read all of step before doing) wire on the Neo. Again follow the wire back about 2-3 inches. You need to cut the wire here, and strip both ends about ¼ of an inch. Take the bullet connectors and covers supplied with neo. You will need 2 male and 2 female connectors so that you have 2 pair that connect together. Using your strippers, one end should have a crimping tool. Place one end of both white (white MAF wire going away from ECU and white off neo) wires, one in a male other in a female. I solder the crimps as well to ensure a good connection and a strong one. Then connect both white ends together. Now do the same for the yellow and white wire going to the ECU. I switch up the ends so, if I decide to remove the Neo later on. I can just pull the neo connections off and the bullet connectors are opposite on the MAF wire, so they will fit together, and I won’t have to repair the connection for the car to run. (Neo harness white should be male and yellow female; MAF wire ends should be opposite or vice-versa)
3. Still on that same 2nd section of ECU plug, 6th pin up from the bottom (big tab side). Is another solid white wire. This wire needs to be connected to the gray wire on the Neo. This is your throttle signal to your ECU. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
4. Now on the 1st section of the ECU plug (Top), 2nd wire down will be a black wire with a white stripe (small tab side). There will be 2, one on each side from each other. For me it’s the right side. But it’s on the opposite side as the big tab on the plug by the hex bolt you removed before. This wire is your ECU power up wire, and needs to have the solid red and red white wire from the neo harness attached to it. I phoned apexi about their diagram on this. They told me that the red wire has to be attached closest to the ECU and the red white was to be approximately an inch further down the wire away from the ECU as the solid red one. So do the same as before. Follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). Do the same an inch further down the wire. And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
5. Still on the 1st section on the ECU plug. On the top wire on the opposite side as the black white wire you just did, should be a solid black wire (big tab side). This is your ECU ground and needs to be attached to brown and black wires from the neo harness. Attached them with that same one inch space you just did the power wires. Brown first then the black an inch away (brown closest to ECU)
6. The orange wire off the neo harness needs to be hooked to some kind of positive that runs the headlights or dimmer switch. Like your stereo dimmer wire or what have you. I wouldn’t recommend hooking this to your ECU harness anywhere as the LCD power wire may draw to much and either damage ECU wiring or the ECU itself.
7. Re-install ECU plug, its harness cap, and kick panel. Careful not to tighten ECU hex bolt too much. Snug it is good it just has to seat completely.
Neo Pin out Recap
PIN# recap KA24E if you have factory pin out diagram
Pin #3 (Tach) Yellow/Red to Green on Neo
Pin #16 (MAFS) White from sensor to white on NEO and Yellow on NEO to ECU MAFS wire
Pin #20 (Throttle position sensor) White to gray on Neo
Pin #39 (Ground) Black to Brown on neo being closest to ECU and Black on Neo being Farthest
Pin #47 (ignition power) Black/White to solid red being closest to ECU and red/white being furthest from ECU on Neo
Orange on Neo to headlight dim wire behind stereo or 12v source when highlights on
PIN # recap KA24DE if you have factory pin out diagram
Pin #2 (Tach) Yellow/Red to Green on Neo
Pin #16 (MAFS) White from sensor to white on NEO and Yellow on NEO to ECU MAFS wire
Pin #20 (Throttle position sensor) White to gray on Neo
Pin #39 (Ground) Black to Brown on neo being closest to ECU and Black on Neo being Farthest
Pin #47 (ignition power) Black/White to solid red being closest to ECU and red/white being furthest from ECU on Neo
Orange on Neo to headlight dim wire behind stereo or 12v source when highlights on
HKS:
1.At the bottom of the harness when its upright (as bolted to ECU)(big tab side) you will have a black wire with a white stripe. This is injector one wire. The HKS Camp needs this wire attached to its green wire. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
2. On the 3rd section (below hex bolt) of the ECU plug (big tab side), 2nd wire up for KA24DE and 3rd wire up for KA24E. Will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is you Tach wire, and needs to be connected to brown wire on CAMP harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
3. On 1st section of the ECU plug, big tab side. Second wire up from the bottom of section will be yellow wire with green stripe. This is your Speedo signal to your cluster. This needs to be connected to the Blue wire on the CAMP harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
4. Still on 1st section of ECU plug (short tab side) 3rd wire down will be a solid red wire. This is your Eccs relay and injector common positive. It needs to be connected to the yellow wire on the CAMP harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
5. Still on the 1st section of ECU plug (short tab side, right above red wire) 2nd down will be a black wire with white stripe. This is your ECU power up wire. It needs to be connected to the red wire on the CAMP harness. So follow the wire back about 2 or so inches from the plug. I like to leave room from the plug incase I have to make a wire repair in the future. Use your wire cutters and proper gauge stripper and just clamp the wire in 2 spots about ¼ inch apart (DON’T CUT THE WIRE). And use the razor to cut that small section of enamel off. Careful not to cut yourself. Now wrap the wire around the bare section of wire, and solder the connection. Then put a small piece of electrical tape around it. Make sure you cover the whole piece of bare wire, so it doesn’t short out against something.
HKS Camp Pin out recap
PIN# recap KA24E if you have factory pin out diagram
Pin #101 (injector #1 pulse) white/black to Green on HKS harness
Pin #3 (Tach) Yellow/Red to Brown on HKS harness
Pin #32 (Speedo) yellow/green to Blue on HKS harness
Pin #46 (Eccs Relay) Red to Yellow on HKS harness
Pin #47 (Ecu +, ignition power) black/white Red on HKS harness
PIN # recap KA24DE if you have factory pin out diagram
Pin #101 (injector #1 pulse) white/black to Green on HKS harness
Pin #2 (tach) Yellow/Red to Brown on HKS harness
Pin #32 (speedo) yellow/green to Blue on HKS harness
Pin #46 (Eccs Relay) Red to Yellow on HKS harness
Pin #47 (Ecu +, ignition power) black/white Red on HKS harness
Disclaimer:
I will not be held responsible for any damages. Including personal, electrically, or any other way. Your battery should always be unhooked during wiring of any kind, with ignition in off position. Wiring may work for other engines.
I'll also post these ECU pin out diagrams for KA24E and KA24DE for reference for all. sorry the KA-DE one is cut off a bit. my screen isn't big enough lol.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2079d9t&s=3
http://i31.tinypic.com/2079d9t.jpg
and the E love
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=309hdok&s=3
http://i31.tinypic.com/309hdok.jpg