Kouki
03-25-2008, 10:26 PM
Well after numerous little problems I had to chase down, I finally got my setup ready enough to make a trip to the dyno for some tuning. My setup is as follows:
S13 Redtop SR
Completely stock bottom end including stock headgasket.
Brian Crower 264s, springs and retainers.
50trim T3/T4, .48a/r exhaust
38mm Tial waste gate(13psi spring)
Treadstone top mount mani
Stock intake manifold
Z32 MAF
740cc DW injectors
Hardwired Walbro 255/nismo fpr
Basic 3"exh, front mount, Apex'i filter
Power FC with FC-Datalogit
Innovate LC-1
Took a little while to get it tuned right, was having problems getting enough fuel to it. For some reason, I set the injector correction at 50 for the 740s, but in the injector map you can't go over 1.5 correction, well I needed more fuel than that just to get it to run smoothly. So what I had to do was set the injector correction at 72, which got it running pretty smoothly. I don't know why it was like that, but took forever to get that figured out. Maybe I should have got nismo injectors instead of the DWs? So if anyone has had that problem let me know that I'm not the only one, it fuckin stumped me and the tuner at the dyno shop.
Anyways, once I got that sorted out, we did a couple of pulls just running off the wastegate at 12-13psi, up to about 6000rpm, just to start getting afrs right. Got them pretty close, then did a redline pull and finished off the afrs. After that it was time to start adding timing. We added timing about 1-2degrees at a time, logged knock, but that wasn't as important as watching the graph change. Basically with solid mounts the stock knock sensor picks up too many frequencies that aren't actually knock, but other vibrations. The only time that we had any audible pinging, the knock sensor value was actually pretty low, so basically knock means nothing, tune on the dyno and change timing until the curve doesn't like it, even if it shows knock, it doesn't necessairly mean it's detonation. But anyway, Got timing pretty good with low boost.
Time to turn up the boost, did a couple lower pulls up to about 6000 so I could dial in my boost controller, and got to a comfortable 18psi for our 92 pump gas. Did a full pull, suprisingly the afrs were pretty good, average of about 10.5, could have leaned it out a little more, but I wanted to stay halfway conservative. Timing was pretty good up to about 6000rpm, had to do a little playing up higher than that, but got it pretty good too. All in all it was definitely a learning experience, most in-depth tuning I've ever done. I did most of the tuning myself, the shop owner was a great guy, and had me do all the work, but was there right behind me to give me any input he had, very helpful.
Now I'm having a little idle problem. it hunts around for a while after I let off and sometimes it dies. It doesn't matter if I'm in boost or not, only way I can help it is by holding the throttle just a hair as it drops to idle and holding it there for a sec to keep it from dying. I think I'm going to recirc the bov and see if that helps with that, also maybe lean the idle out a little bit as when it's hunting around, it puffs out a lil black smoke until it settles down. Any insight on this would be appreciated too.
All of the tuning was done on a Mustang dyno, remember that dynojets usually read about 15% higher than mustangs do.
And here are my dyno graphs, first one is once we got afr and timing close on low boost of 12 psi on 92 pump gas. Made 229hp and 195tq on this run.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/super_rad_1000/Dyno3-25-08001.jpg
And this is my last run, 18psi on 92 pump gas. Made 310hp and 238tq.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/super_rad_1000/Dyno3-25-08.jpg
Let me know what you guys think, do these numbers sound good, bad, etc? The car feels pretty good, and pulls rock hard to redline. I'm pretty happy with it. I could probably squeeze out a little more hp with a less conservative tune too, but being the first time I did any tuning this indepth, I'd rather be a little conservative for now.
S13 Redtop SR
Completely stock bottom end including stock headgasket.
Brian Crower 264s, springs and retainers.
50trim T3/T4, .48a/r exhaust
38mm Tial waste gate(13psi spring)
Treadstone top mount mani
Stock intake manifold
Z32 MAF
740cc DW injectors
Hardwired Walbro 255/nismo fpr
Basic 3"exh, front mount, Apex'i filter
Power FC with FC-Datalogit
Innovate LC-1
Took a little while to get it tuned right, was having problems getting enough fuel to it. For some reason, I set the injector correction at 50 for the 740s, but in the injector map you can't go over 1.5 correction, well I needed more fuel than that just to get it to run smoothly. So what I had to do was set the injector correction at 72, which got it running pretty smoothly. I don't know why it was like that, but took forever to get that figured out. Maybe I should have got nismo injectors instead of the DWs? So if anyone has had that problem let me know that I'm not the only one, it fuckin stumped me and the tuner at the dyno shop.
Anyways, once I got that sorted out, we did a couple of pulls just running off the wastegate at 12-13psi, up to about 6000rpm, just to start getting afrs right. Got them pretty close, then did a redline pull and finished off the afrs. After that it was time to start adding timing. We added timing about 1-2degrees at a time, logged knock, but that wasn't as important as watching the graph change. Basically with solid mounts the stock knock sensor picks up too many frequencies that aren't actually knock, but other vibrations. The only time that we had any audible pinging, the knock sensor value was actually pretty low, so basically knock means nothing, tune on the dyno and change timing until the curve doesn't like it, even if it shows knock, it doesn't necessairly mean it's detonation. But anyway, Got timing pretty good with low boost.
Time to turn up the boost, did a couple lower pulls up to about 6000 so I could dial in my boost controller, and got to a comfortable 18psi for our 92 pump gas. Did a full pull, suprisingly the afrs were pretty good, average of about 10.5, could have leaned it out a little more, but I wanted to stay halfway conservative. Timing was pretty good up to about 6000rpm, had to do a little playing up higher than that, but got it pretty good too. All in all it was definitely a learning experience, most in-depth tuning I've ever done. I did most of the tuning myself, the shop owner was a great guy, and had me do all the work, but was there right behind me to give me any input he had, very helpful.
Now I'm having a little idle problem. it hunts around for a while after I let off and sometimes it dies. It doesn't matter if I'm in boost or not, only way I can help it is by holding the throttle just a hair as it drops to idle and holding it there for a sec to keep it from dying. I think I'm going to recirc the bov and see if that helps with that, also maybe lean the idle out a little bit as when it's hunting around, it puffs out a lil black smoke until it settles down. Any insight on this would be appreciated too.
All of the tuning was done on a Mustang dyno, remember that dynojets usually read about 15% higher than mustangs do.
And here are my dyno graphs, first one is once we got afr and timing close on low boost of 12 psi on 92 pump gas. Made 229hp and 195tq on this run.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/super_rad_1000/Dyno3-25-08001.jpg
And this is my last run, 18psi on 92 pump gas. Made 310hp and 238tq.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y135/super_rad_1000/Dyno3-25-08.jpg
Let me know what you guys think, do these numbers sound good, bad, etc? The car feels pretty good, and pulls rock hard to redline. I'm pretty happy with it. I could probably squeeze out a little more hp with a less conservative tune too, but being the first time I did any tuning this indepth, I'd rather be a little conservative for now.