Fluid Q for SR20det

[silviatunersr20]

Ok my sr wil be in soon and im new to the whole turbo engine game. My laptop has been down for a few weeks so I been searchin on my moto Q which is a PITA! I wanna know what is the recommened/best oil for the sr engine and trans. I cant get ahold of a FSM to check on this phone. I know the engine holds 3.5 q w/ stock oil pan and 4.5 with greddy/arc/tomie pan, and im not sure about the trans but I saw somewhere that it takes 2.7q and to use redline MT90? I wanna know what brand and weight to use, and if it matters the engine is stock besides a few boltons.

I searched a few forums but all I get is a bunch of kids sayin brand x is better than brand a yada yada yada.

Thanks for any help in advance and sorry if this is already answered somewhere on this forum already.

[unicoladron]

motor oil is really up to you...i use 10w40. but for turbo engines 10w (or even 5w) 50/60 is the shiznit. if you have an SR don't you DARE use synthetic...unless of course you've done a full rebuild!

i personally have always used Redline MT-90 GL-4 (don't use GL-5!!!!, it'll kill the brass syncros) 75W90 in the tranny. smooth shifts across the board, you won't regret it! and i'ts like 9 bucks a quart. check out their website, i don't know if it's motoQ friendly tho lol

and don't leave your diff fluid out of the picture..what kind of diff do you have?

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ yup, agreed. The 10w-40 is good stuff, and it's really better for the turbo seals to use conventional oil (I used to use Mobil 1, but the turbo would blow a little oil all the time - and that was a perfect condition t25)... that being said, like unicoladron mentioned, with a full rebuild and a new turbo, synthetic should be better.

For tranny fluid, any GL-4 fluid will work, but different fluids "feel" different. The FSM specifies 80W-90 I believe, but I use 75W-90 also.

[KiLLeR2001]

Royal Purple 10w30 and Redline MT90.

[Captain_Ron80]

^^^ yup, agreed. The 10w-40 is good stuff, and it's really better for the turbo seals to use conventional oil (I used to use Mobil 1, but the turbo would blow a little oil all the time - and that was a perfect condition t25)... that being said, like unicoladron mentioned, with a full rebuild and a new turbo, synthetic should be better.

For tranny fluid, any GL-4 fluid will work, but different fluids "feel" different. The FSM specifies 80W-90 I believe, but I use 75W-90 also.


Sorry to thread jack here... but you are saying that it is bad to run synthetic in a turbo engine unless it has been rebuilt... and that conventional is better? Someone please tell me more.

[Grendel]

Sorry to thread jack here... but you are saying that it is bad to run synthetic in a turbo engine unless it has been rebuilt... and that conventional is better? Someone please tell me more.

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but its better than starting a new one right?

Anyways...

This is the first I have heard of this too, I'm doing an oil change tomorrow and have been searching which oil to go with. I'm not sure if I want to go with regular or synthetic.

[916S14]

damn i would also like to know this. I though synthetic was better than regular oil for SR's.

[S14DB]

Does synthetic have some magic properties that a conventional oil of the same viscosity doesn't?

[landins13]

im running a fully built sr and use royal purple 10w50 or castrol full synthetic 10w30 if im just dd it. most of the time its got royal purple in it just because i primarily drive it at the track

[Grendel]

Does synthetic have some magic properties that a conventional oil of the same viscosity doesn't?

I don't know... does it?

I always hear things like sometimes putting synthetic oil in will find leaks that you didn't have with regular oil before that. No idea if that is a myth or not...

There are a lot of people on this site with a lot of info, was hoping they would chime in :)

*edit*

Kept searching, found another thread. (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=1623456&postcount=13) http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

Myth: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.

Reality:
Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.



Hmm...

[heiyuu]

WTF can anyone confirm why I should not "DARE use synthetic" in my stock SR?

I have 5 free jugs of castrol synthetic in both 10w30 and 5w30 and that I'd like to use.

[downshift_sideways]

motor oil is really up to you...i use 10w40. but for turbo engines 10w (or even 5w) 50/60 is the shiznit. if you have an SR don't you DARE use synthetic...unless of course you've done a full rebuild!

i personally have always used Redline MT-90 GL-4 (don't use GL-5!!!!, it'll kill the brass syncros) 75W90 in the tranny. smooth shifts across the board, you won't regret it! and i'ts like 9 bucks a quart. check out their website, i don't know if it's motoQ friendly tho lol

and don't leave your diff fluid out of the picture..what kind of diff do you have?

lol all about your shit huh? lol

I used penzzoil 10w30 Full synthetic oil in all my turbo equipped cars.

For transmission oil and diff; I use Pennzoil 75-w90 GL-4 Fluid.

Whats so bad about using synthetic oil?

Does synthetic have some magic properties that a conventional oil of the same viscosity doesn't?

Actually it does. Synthetic oils carry more additives within the oil for better protecting your motor.
It helps at all operating/extreme tempatures. Synthetics hardly burn oil, and can last longer than standard conventional oil. Helps clean out your motor aswell. Turbo equipped cars tend to break and burn down the oil alot faster at higher tempatures than a normal N/A engine.

[womenbeshoppin]

I personally don't like the feel of Redline, it didn't feel thick enough. Its like jacking off with soapy water. I need the thicker shit.

[downshift_sideways]

The more miles you put on your car, The thicker the oil you would want. to keep your motor running strong.

Newer cars (hybrids and such) with advance technology which uses less engine stress and operating tempatures use 0w-20,0w-40,0w-50,5w-20
Older cars with bigger motors and liters would use anywhere between 10w30-10w40-15w40,20w-50

Some people say once you use synthetic you can never go back to conventional. Its all a MYTH.

You can use conventional,synthetic blend,full synthetic if it is the correct weight that the manufactures recommends.
Make sure to perform an engine flush when switching grades of oil however.

[brndck]

i've been running motul or royal purple 10w30 or 10w40 on my sr for 6 years. never rebuilt. driven regularly but not always daily. about once a week if not more often. the only leak i've ever had was the oil pan gasket which was very easily fixed by resealing the pan with silicone. redline mt90 ftw!!! my tranny is way smoother with almost no grinding with it. gl4 only, NOT gl5.

[S14DB]

Actually it does. Synthetic oils carry more additives within the oil for better protecting your motor.
It helps at all operating/extreme tempatures. Synthetics hardly burn oil, and can last longer than standard conventional oil. Helps clean out your motor aswell. Turbo equipped cars tend to break and burn down the oil alot faster at higher tempatures than a normal N/A engine.

I was talking more on the viscosity/thickness/weight. They were eluding to that synth was somehow thinner at the same weight. If that were the case it would be a lower weight.

[Big Bronze Rim]

I was talking more on the viscosity/thickness/weight. They were eluding to that synth was somehow thinner at the same weight. If that were the case it would be a lower weight.
There really isn't a viscocity difference given similar conditions. The viscocity ratings are given out based on standardized testing which both synthetic and dino oil both undergo. I think more important are the additive packages such as viscocity improvers, which are what allow an oil to be a 10W weight and a 30 hot weight. The bigger the delta between the low and high weight, the harder it is on the VI and the more likely that oil will revert to its lower weight under high stress and abuse. Thats why I tend to stay away from stuff like 5w-50 weight oils. That is why most race oils for competition only vehichles are straight weight. Also, coking resistance it typically higher in a synthetic oil than in a conventional oil which is always nice in a turbo car. FWIW I run 10W-40 in my rebuilt sr which has larger main and rod clearances than a stock sr. I think the "what oil is best" debate will go on forever. What defines "best"? I everyone will have their own opinion and preference on oil and that's ok, because there are enough choices for everyone.

[sbanzer123]

ive never rebuilt my sr and i switched to synthetic about 2 years ago, with no problems what so ever. saying dont dare switching to synthetic is bullshit.

[nism014]

I'm using Royal purple synthetic also for the motor.

For the diff and trans, I use the redline heavy shock proof oil (75W250). Google it for more info.

[sac]

IN MY OPINION.. SYNTHETIC HANDS DOWN IS THE WAY TO GO IF YA CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR.

look at the exotics. Even the vettes, vipers, gt500 stangs, on some cars.. If ya use anything other than mobil 1 full synthetic oil.. ya just fuc'd up your entire warranty..

i do agree with people above.. rebuild your shit. then use synthetic.

[handinpants]

Opinions are like assholes, everyone has one. And more and more people here have become "experts" in the oil changing field, which is why i have to give my two cents, " if you have an SR don't you DARE use synthetic...unless of course you've done a full rebuild!" is just another one of those expert's advice. I was told by the shop which did my SR motor swap to use synthetic, and i trust them because they do SR swaps all the time, but see i paid good money to have everything done right the first time... minus the motor mounts...... but anyways thats besides the point, when it comes to oil, i'm going to spend the extra $$ to buy the blend that is better for my engine, and if some of you feel that i am making a mistake by putting synthetic in my SR, all i can say is i'm sorry you feel that way....

[jspaeth]

The head of ExxonMobil's Research group in charge of developing Mobil 1 is now an adjunct faculty at my school right now, and routinely gives lectures.

He gave a lecture on the chemistry and engineering of Mobil 1 versus other oils, and by far it has the best engineering.

Non-synthetics break down WAYYYY faster than synthetics, leading to a deviation from the published weight/viscosity.

[g6civcx]

The head of ExxonMobil's Research group in charge of developing Mobil 1 is now an adjunct faculty at my school right now

He gave a lecture on the chemistry and engineering of Mobil 1 versus other oils, and by far it has the best engineering.

Is the conclusion yours or his, and is the conclusion objective or self-serving if the conclusion is his?

[sbanzer123]

yes and with a turbo motor organic oil breaks down faster due to the high heat. when i switched to synthetic, i changed my oil again after like 800 miles, and i noticed on my dipstick all the shitty burnt oil was completly gone, i just pulled the head off of my motor to to change to a mls head gasket and everything in the head looked perfect, along with the cylinder walls' you could still see the cross hatches in the cylinder walls from the factory. once again i will say the myth of dont switch to a synthetic blend without a engine rebuild imho is bullshit.

[downshift_sideways]

:lockd::lockd::lockd::lockd::lockd::lockd::lockd:: lockd:

Its about time.

[spegt]

Well coming from my standpoint(Automotive Science and Mechanical Engineering degree)....*cough...cough*. It does matter. Pick one and stick with it. I personally use conventional. Then again you cant go wrong with the manufacturer's recommendations. They say conventional. Its simple. Syn. oil is produced in a lab to replicate what comes out of the ground. They have more additives therefore they dont breakdown as early(due to stress and heat). SR FSM says conventional. Its cheaper then syn. Just change your oil regularly and its all gravy. Choose an appropriate weight based on the engine specs. I rebuilt mine to optimum factory clearances, mains to .0015in. So a thinner oil is optimum. (about 5w-30) but the lifters seem to enjoys 10w-30. The reason you dont switch back to conventional after syn is tricky. Basically. The additional additives in th syn condition the bearings and cylinder walls. These additives actually(microscopic) wear(grind) a smoother surface on the metals. Like using crocus cloth, doesnt take anything away but the more you use it the more polished the surface becomes. When you switch back to conventional, the impurities grind and pit the smooth surface.(bad) On your everyday car(beater) its no big deal. But I wouldnt want that happening on my high performance machine......end

[JRas]

I use Mobile 1 10W-30 on my KA

no rebuild with 120k

[silviatunersr20]

lol damn I did not know this was such a touchy subject. :(

[unicoladron]

all i really meant guys was if you have an engine that's been running on conventional for say 60km, then you go ahead and start adding synthetic, you could risk drying out seals in your engine. plus it really won't make a difference on cars with high mileage. that's why i stated unless you have a rebuilt engine, then hooray for synthetic. but otherwise, you're only spending extra cash on synthetic. plus you should be changing your oil at 3000 miles so your oil shouldn't have a chance to breakdown to less than advertised viscocities.

and for all of you guys autoxing/drifting/grip/etc you probably change your oil earlier than 3k based on how much asskicking you do to your engine.

[kuramaya]

Mobil 1 15w-50 in the Motor, Change every 3,000 klms or (2) track days.
Royal Purple 75w-90 in the Mission, change once a year.
Kaaz 80w-90 in the Diff, change once a year.

[S14DB]

all i really meant guys was if you have an engine that's been running on conventional for say 60km, then you go ahead and start adding synthetic, you could risk drying out seals in your engine. plus it really won't make a difference on cars with high mileage. that's why i stated unless you have a rebuilt engine, then hooray for synthetic. but otherwise, you're only spending extra cash on synthetic. plus you should be changing your oil at 3000 miles so your oil shouldn't have a chance to breakdown to less than advertised viscocities.

and for all of you guys autoxing/drifting/grip/etc you probably change your oil earlier than 3k based on how much asskicking you do to your engine.

Drying out seals? Where do you think up this crap?

[downshift_sideways]

all i really meant guys was if you have an engine that's been running on conventional for say 60km, then you go ahead and start adding synthetic, you could risk drying out seals in your engine. plus it really won't make a difference on cars with high mileage. that's why i stated unless you have a rebuilt engine, then hooray for synthetic. but otherwise, you're only spending extra cash on synthetic. plus you should be changing your oil at 3000 miles so your oil shouldn't have a chance to breakdown to less than advertised viscocities.

and for all of you guys autoxing/drifting/grip/etc you probably change your oil earlier than 3k based on how much asskicking you do to your engine.

WTFYOUTALKING ABOUT :bs:

soo...With your theory mentioned above.

1 mile = 1.6 kilometers.

So what you are saying is.

We need to add synthetic oil to our cars when we hit 60km?
Every 60KM = 37.2 Miles

So we need to change our oil every 37.2 Miles? :keke:
^ I put those miles damn near every day.

I usually change every 3,000 Miles using conentional oil.
and every 5,000 Miles using synthetic and toping off when needed.(Considering Synthetic oils last longer and do not burn/break down as fast as a standard conventional oil)
^even using a synthetic you can still change your oil at the 3k mark if you wanted to, but is not fully necessary.
If you are putting heavy stress on your motor at extreme operating tempatures; drift,grip,autoX...etc. You do tend to burn oil, so most people do a routing where they would change their oils after every 2-5 tracks days, which is completely fine. Those owners tend to have a longer life period with their motors aswell ;)

Instead of changing your oil to a synthetic; you should look into the following.

If you are using 10w30 conventional oil, and it begins burning up the oil.
You would essentially want to:
1. Switch to a bigger weight. the next step up would be 10w40 conventional.
2. If you wanted to play the safe side, and do a mild upgrade for your motor. You can always switch to a 10w30 Higher mileage oil. Which almost matches the same additives in the leading synthetic oil. The higher mileage oils carry a synthetic blend, which better improves the friction,heat,and lubrication of your motor.

(Some of this information does not apply to rotary motors ;))