SR swap pointers from experience

[kungfujerry]

Ok my SR20 red top is almost together, and I will soon be bringing my 1991 240sx fastback automatic to school to do the swap. (yes I will be changing it to a manual at the same time) Could I get any pointers in either removing the KA, installing the SR, or auto to manual swap? I have read the guides, just wondering if other people who have done this swap have any pointers or warnings.

[sidewayzsx]

dont go cheap on the small parts you need when doing the swap

[Team Aero-K]

its pretty simple, make sure you have all components needed before you start

[burnsauto]

• do the heater hoses before you put the engine in. make sure all those clamps are tight behind the head...they're a bit of a pain to get to once they're in there.
• take off the bumper/fenders if they are in good shape and dont have any plans on repainting them for awhile...just to be sure you wont scratch them up with anything (belt buckles, zippers, etc)
• use a hole saw bit to drill the hole in your battery tray (if your going front mount.) usually 4" is enough space to give you good working room.
• when ripping out the ka, make sure you get ALL the brackets that connect the downpipe to the engine. sometimes there's one up near where it meets the manifold that you can easily overlook.
• patience is a virtue. if you're tired....sleep. you can make mistakes when you're running on empty. dont rush anything.
• don't forget to prime the engine!

good luck and have fun!

[lbsam]

its pretty simple, make sure you have all components needed before you start

what he said.. makes it smoother and faster.

[xpicer]

what he said.. makes it smoother and faster.

unless you have a full new exhaust double check on what your options are , some people have special muflers ( welded on ) that can not simply be bolt on

double check your computer , engine and harness match before hand

if you are removing the engine and tranny together all at once be carefull on not hitting your rad support , mine was dented really bad

[Onitsukagirl]

I guess I could second that post above. While the engine is out.. (sr) make sure you look over every square inch of the motor and make sure hoses are on tight, transmission bolts are tight (if you chose to install it with the trans on) just double check everything. And make sure you have a blanket to toss over your radiator support and blanket the transmission so when you install it it won't scratch your firewall or windshield. Oh and don't put the motor mounts on the chassis and try to line up the bolts.. it will make you lose your mind trying to get the motor in... make sure you put the mounts and brackets on the engine. :hs: heh. hope that helped.

[Luvs2slide]

Before you put the motor in, replace ALL the coolant hoses on the intake side of the motor. Also, theres a little bracket which is bolted the the rear of the motor which connects to one of the coolant lines from the turbo. I suggest you unbolt the bracket and remove it. If not, you will hardly never be able to get to it with the limited space in case of a leak there.

[Z U L8R]

separate the engine from the transmission, take the pressure plate off and look at the clutch disc. that way if the clutch is crap, you can do it right there on the floor and not later with the motor in the car.

try to visualize yourself tightening bolts and what not, if you can't see yourself tightening this or that up then double check yourself.

the basics like new thermostat, new belts, new hoses like they said, and especially fresh spark plugs ngk bcpr7es (#3330) gapped at .028

make sure the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold are tight. get a down pipe that has a flex pipe in it. it helps to keep those bolts from getting loose and u having to pull your exhaust manifold/turbo off because you have an exhaust leak.

go over your wiring twice. compare with 2 different sources if you just googled it.

your throttle body has 3 vacuum ports on it. two at the top and one at the bottom. the fat top one goes to your bov, and you can also T off of that for your boost guage. the top small one goes to your fuel pressure regulator. the bottom vacuum port is for boost only, no vacuum so run that to your wastegate actuator on your turbo. they don't like vacuum and they work off of boost so use this port.

if it doesn't make sense to you, ask

everything else is common sense

Dave =]

[brndck]

and if ur removing your a/c, make sure to get it evacuated properly, don't just vent it to the atmosphere.

[i need tires]

and if ur removing your a/c, make sure to get it evacuated properly, don't just vent it to the atmosphere.

whats the advantage or disadvantage does this have when it comes to swapping the engine?

[MrFairlady]

whats the advantage or disadvantage does this have when it comes to swapping the engine?
I think they mean if not Re-using the compressor in the new motor is what they are saying.otherwise You can sit it to the side and re-install it on the SR.
Its the Right Thing to do for the Enviroment to properly Evac. that system.

I'm in the same boat as you.Doing my swap soon too.
purchased new Clutch,Rad,RAS,gasket kit,water pump,Walbro,new 02 sensor,Braided Turbo lines & Heavy Throttel install kit (hoses/belts) and tune up kit.:love: etc

I'm performing a leakdown test as soon as the motor arrives.

Sorry to Hijack but:

What Do most of these shops/motor Sellers Compression test these engines w/ them out of the car???I've heard from a bunch of techs at work that Theres no Real Concrete numbers that can be that Accurate w/o it being Cranked in The car.
Are they basically lying - kinda liek how many miles are on the engines...or so they honestly Check that some other way?A Reputable Company that is.

[garagelu]

I think the best advice is just to take your time with everything. This includes anything else you do with a car. If you get stuck at one place, take a breather and go inside and just chill for a while. Come back when you are less frustrated. If you keep going, you will just get mad and screw more stuff up.

[IRN]

dont forget the park/ignition relay. cutting firewall and mounting clutch pedal is cake. clutch line is direct. heres a tip. CLEAN THE BAY!

[Slow Poke]

As stated, make sure the water lines behind the motor are tight and good to go. Install the lines on the engine first and make sure there gonna line up at the right spots and that there the correct size.

and if ur removing your a/c, make sure to get it evacuated properly, don't just vent it to the atmosphere.

FOR SURE!

[Slow Poke]

What Do most of these shops/motor Sellers Compression test these engines w/ them out of the car???I've heard from a bunch of techs at work that Theres no Real Concrete numbers that can be that Accurate w/o it being Cranked in The car.
Are they basically lying - kinda liek how many miles are on the engines...or so they honestly Check that some other way?A Reputable Company that is.

Power to the starter and ground to the engine is all ya need bro. Obviously there would need to be oil in the motor. But it can be done with the motor out of the car. Thing is the #'s are not going to be as accurate because the motor is not going to be at normal operation temperature. I'm not quite sure how each shop does it, seems like a good idea to call and ask.

[TOMKAIRA93]

If you end up replacing the clutch before installing the motor make sure you also REPLACE THE REAR MAIN SEAL. I forgot to do mine when I did this and now my car leaks from there. SUCKS!!!! Don't like to see oil on my drive way/ garage. My .02

[punxva]

take your time when you wire it and do it right, aka heat shrink and solder, not shitty connections, and plan on replacing the clutch, spark plugs, and for the love of god check everything out before you put it in, also check the oil pan, for dents and leaks

[MrFairlady]

Very helpfull indead this Thread is for me as well.

Some people were telling me to replace the Factory Hard Lines w/ Braided ones (W/ S14 water neck) - but even Heavy Throttle told me.."not to worry about it..unless your planning a Turbo/manifold swap".For stock they said leave it.

But I hear thats just 1 "Monkey off my back" 1 member said (as well as RAS)??

Should I go ahead and spend the $170+ $60 to get those braided lines & Water neck - and replace Hard lines??Its 2 lines right (water/oil)?

Oil pan replacement has got me questionable as well...But once the motor gets here I'll just have to decide then if the pan should be tossed.

[Psycho 240 Freak]

Don't toss the oil pan. If you don't want to spend extra money and want to be on the safe side. Just hammer out the bottom.

[Driftapparel.com]

Very helpfull indead this Thread is for me as well.

Some people were telling me to replace the Factory Hard Lines w/ Braided ones (W/ S14 water neck) - but even Heavy Throttle told me.."not to worry about it..unless your planning a Turbo/manifold swap".For stock they said leave it.

But I hear thats just 1 "Monkey off my back" 1 member said (as well as RAS)??

Should I go ahead and spend the $170+ $60 to get those braided lines & Water neck - and replace Hard lines??Its 2 lines right (water/oil)?

Oil pan replacement has got me questionable as well...But once the motor gets here I'll just have to decide then if the pan should be tossed.

It is actually 3 lines! 2 oil and 1 water. I recommend just getting the braided lines. I didn't and my car is still sitting there a week later. I got one custom fabricated and now my water line is leaking!! It's been a pain in the ass.

[unicoladron]

DEFINITELY do everything stated above. definitely check the turbo for shaftplay. use your best judgment. if there is a questionable amount of side/side and in/out play, its' time for a rebuild. i did the swap a few months ago and now the engines in, and the turbo is definitely gonna blow soon. use high quality gaskets on your turbo, if you plan on increasing boost, definitely go for some ARP head studs and a cometic head gasket (and definitely RAS or Rocker Arm Stoppers). this will give you some nice peace of mind.

[Z U L8R]

ahhh i forgot about the good ole tiny ding in the oil pan that looks harmless and probably happened in shipping that ends up starving the motor lol. good call fellas

GREY RTV ftw, black isn't as oil resistant and isn't as high temp as grey. and red rtv is has corrosive odors that are not o2 sensor safe....plus it looks like shit =]

Dave =]

[kungfujerry]

Thanks for the advice. Just a heads up on all I'm doing to the motor.
Parts
-SR20DET motor and Transmission
-CP Forged Pistons and rings
-Eagle forged chromoly rods
-OEM gasket set
-OEM oil pan
-Replacement belts
-Cometic 3 layer head gasket
-OEM oil seals and bearings
-OEM 02 sensor
-Megan Racing downpipe
-Megan racing turbo manifold
-Z32 MAF
-ACT 372 ft/lb clutch
-Nismo Motor mounts
-255lph Walburo fuel pump
-Injectors cleaned and mapped
-Different Turbo
-HKS catback exhaust
-FMIC w/hks blow off valve
-Apexi SAFC
-Radiator + fan


Machining
-Hot tank block
-Prep block and chase all threads
-Line hone main housing bores to size and cut caps
-Bore and hone cylinders inline (27lb boost)
-Mock assemble/ check height and zero deck block
-Balance rotating and reciprocating mass
-Balance flywheel and pressure plate w/harmonic balancer
-Chamfer oil holes on crankshaft and polish
-Check and clearance piston pin and connecting rod bushing
then file fit rings for boosted spec.
-Hot tank head
-Bead blast aluminum cylinder head to clean and remove,
install oil plugs
-Pull head apart check valve guides and check valve stem
installed height
-Face valves then lap in to check valve seats
-Tip valve stems back to OEM spec
-Resurface head
-Reassemble head with valve seals supplied
-Re surface flywheel

[devonkyle77]

thats a better start than probably 80% of the guys on here

[MrFairlady]

Thanks for the advice. Just a heads up on all I'm doing to the motor.
Parts
-SR20DET motor and Transmission
-CP Forged Pistons and rings
-Eagle forged chromoly rods
-OEM gasket set
-OEM oil pan
-Replacement belts
-Cometic 3 layer head gasket
-OEM oil seals and bearings
-OEM 02 sensor
-Megan Racing downpipe
-Megan racing turbo manifold
-Z32 MAF
-ACT 372 ft/lb clutch
-Nismo Motor mounts
-255lph Walburo fuel pump
-Injectors cleaned and mapped
-Different Turbo
-HKS catback exhaust
-FMIC w/hks blow off valve
-Apexi SAFC
-Radiator + fan


Machining
-Hot tank block
-Prep block and chase all threads
-Line hone main housing bores to size and cut caps
-Bore and hone cylinders inline (27lb boost)
-Mock assemble/ check height and zero deck block
-Balance rotating and reciprocating mass
-Balance flywheel and pressure plate w/harmonic balancer
-Chamfer oil holes on crankshaft and polish
-Check and clearance piston pin and connecting rod bushing
then file fit rings for boosted spec.
-Hot tank head
-Bead blast aluminum cylinder head to clean and remove,
install oil plugs
-Pull head apart check valve guides and check valve stem
installed height
-Face valves then lap in to check valve seats
-Tip valve stems back to OEM spec
-Resurface head
-Reassemble head with valve seals supplied
-Re surface flywheel

Holy Jebus! Yesh - thats a 6+ mnth project there and a $12k+ motor alone.
Nice budget.I'm spending near $2k on what i had planned and thats not Nearly as much as yours.
mines my Daily - I have the Other money pit basically done and parked.
I would get yelled and screamed at if I wanted to do all that.My New Marriage would be Over! (and were not married till Mar 8th):eek:

might as well go to auto Zone and get a Brand New motor from them - They have the SR20DET in thier Parts list.