Eliminating heater core?

[timlush]

So I am not going to be using a heater core on my new car. I searched this site up and down because I know I have seen a thread on this before. However, I found nothing.

Is it better to loop the coolant lines behind the engine or just block off the inlet/outlet on the block?

I would rather just block it off and have one less place to worry about leaking, but I don't want to mess up the circulation of the coolant.

What's the correct way??

Thanks!

[drift freaq]

Eliminating a heater core is foolish in my opinion. Its a back up engine cooling option, if something in your cooling system is not working properly and can buy you time.

[DOOK]

if you're adament about doing it, just circumventing the core will work, but why?

[johngriff]

+3 on the heater core. The weight savings are no where close to the benefits of it.

Track days can get cold and wet. You need to be able to defrost the window.

[chibo]

I looped mine on the old car, it worked fine.

[codyace]

...not to mention no defrosters will fail you for inspection (at least in PA)

[chibo]

...not to mention no defrosters will fail you for inspection (at least in PA)I wish I could say it never gets cold enough in Arizona for such things but I just moved to Flagstaff from Phoenix and we're expecting 12-16" of snow tonight. :bowrofl:

[bo2o]

heater FTW!~ very few ppl dont run heater because there box got messed up and they cant find another. but its better to have heat then less weight.

i live in cali where its warm all the time. but having that head will save you sometimes even in the summer.
acts like a 2nd radiator

[g6civcx]

You can block it off or recirculate. It's your choice, although most people prefer to recirculate. The heater core doesn't circulate coolant when you set the temp to full cold.

But as said above, it can save your engine if you overheat. I run one on my race car.

Check your state's inspection requirements if you still use it as a street car.

[projectRDM]

If you have to toss it, it needs to be looped. Just capping it will build a lot of pressure and reduce the proper flow through the system.

[chuy]

Loop it behind the engine, then go buy an electric heater, not a house heater but a heater for the car.

[timlush]

I don't plan to drive it when it's cold.

That's what my Honda is for ;)

[racepar1]

There is an off the shelf hose that works perfectly for by-passing it, unfortuanetly I don't remember the part number. I will look through my reciepts and see if I can find it. Blocking it off is rather complicated. Other coolant lines come off the heater pipes, so simple block-off plates are not an option. Unless you are thoroughly gutting the fuck out of your car for dedicated track use just leave it in! I have mine removed along with the entire heater/air conditioning box unit. At the track you will not have a problem with fogging as at most track events (even in the rain) you are required to have your windows at least half way down. However on the way to and from the track it will SUCK! BAD! You better invest in a lot of fog-x (which only somewhat works) and bring a towel, EVERYWHERE! From the looks of the car in your sig it is not a dedicated track car, so I would reccomend that you just leave it in.

[timlush]

Thanks guys.

And it's not for the car in my sig ;)

[KiDyNomiTe]

No heater core in mine, just less shit to put back in. Mine is just looped, but going to find an alternative to just connecting two hoses.

No heat means nothing, I have yet to be cold at a drift day. Defrosters would be nice, but if it comes to the shaving cram thing does work.

In terms of temps, car runs pretty damn I have yet to get in the need to run heat.

[D1S13]

I want to re hook up my heater core, the lines on the 13 are currently circulated and i need to now which line goes where?

which one to the top and which one to the bottom of the heater core

thx

[jdmized240sx]

i had mine looped with no problems. only cause my heater core was leaking and i had no time to fix it. so it was sold with no heat.

[Kouki]

You can block it off or recirculate. It's your choice, although most people prefer to recirculate. The heater core doesn't circulate coolant when you set the temp to full cold.

But as said above, it can save your engine if you overheat. I run one on my race car.

Check your state's inspection requirements if you still use it as a street car.

Actually it does circulate even if the A/C is running. The way it changes from cold to hot, is the box around the heater core, has a door, when you put it on full hot, it opens the door all the way, on full cold, completely closes door, and anywhere inbetween, well the door is at the % open that you have the temp selector put at.

[ms!3]

a/c is one thing. gotta have my heater tho.

[IIIXziuR]

If its a full on track car, just loop it like everyone else said.

[g6civcx]

The heater core doesn't circulate coolant when you set the temp to full cold.

Actually it does circulate even if the A/C is running. The way it changes from cold to hot, is the box around the heater core, has a door, when you put it on full hot, it opens the door all the way, on full cold, completely closes door, and anywhere inbetween, well the door is at the % open that you have the temp selector put at.

This is incorrect. Coolant flow to the heater core is controlled by the temperature selector. If you set the selector to full cold, the control rod shuts off a valve and prevents coolant from entering the core.

This has nothing to do with the A/C. In fact, you can set it to full hot and run the A/C at the same time, which is precisely how you should defrost.

The door controls how much air flows pass the core. The door is also controlled by the same rod that is actuated by the temp selector.


Next time open one up or at least read the FSM before commenting. All this info is easily gleaned from experience or FSM.

[McRussellPants]

This is incorrect. Coolant flow to the heater core is controlled by the temperature selector. If you set the selector to full cold, the control rod shuts off a valve and prevents coolant from entering the core.

This has nothing to do with the A/C. In fact, you can set it to full hot and run the A/C at the same time, which is precisely how you should defrost.

The door controls how much air flows pass the core. The door is also controlled by the same rod that is actuated by the temp selector.


Next time open one up or at least read the FSM before commenting. All this info is easily gleaned from experience or FSM.

S14s have that.

S13s don't.

[Kouki]

S14s have that.

S13s don't.

THANK YOU! :D

[g6civcx]

S14s have that.

S13s don't.

I rebuilt many S13 SOHC and DOHC heater cores. I also ordered a brand new core from Justin. They are all the same.

Page HA-86 of the S13 FSM describes the water cock control rod and temp control cable.

The water cock regulates coolant flow into the heater core. The air mix door controls how much air (cooled or atmospheric) is mixed with the heater core.

Both of these are controlled by the temp control cable.

Also as a tip, the air mix door lever to water cock control rod retainer (white plastic piece) tends to break. I pulled several heater cores in the junkyard to get a couple of these as spares.

I hope we can resolve this before Russ makes another speech about how we're all ignorant.

[cheapscheisst]

I rebuilt many S13 SOHC and DOHC heater cores. I also ordered a brand new core from Justin. They are all the same.

Page HA-86 of the S13 FSM describes the water cock control rod and temp control cable.

The water cock regulates coolant flow into the heater core. The air mix door controls how much air (cooled or atmospheric) is mixed with the heater core.

Both of these are controlled by the temp control cable.

Also as a tip, the air mix door lever to water cock control rod retainer (white plastic piece) tends to break. I pulled several heater cores in the junkyard to get a couple of these as spares.

I hope we can resolve this before Russ makes another speech about how we're all ignorant.

my '90 s13 works like this. the flow and shutter are both controlled by the same cable. i took out everything behind the dash in my car, as it's only going to be used for track days and practice (though i'll probably drive it when it's nice out as well).

[!Zar!]

Just loop it.

[g6civcx]

You don't have to loop the fittings on the longblock if you manage to block off the coolant passages where it branches off from the main passages.

If you just cap off the fittings, it would create little crevices that don't go anywhere. This tends to trap air and create a lot of pressure in the system.


Bottom line. Either loop the fittings or if the motor is already disassembled, weld the water passages as close to the source as possible.

[Addicted2Kouki]

Eliminating a heater core is foolish in my opinion. Its a back up engine cooling option, if something in your cooling system is not working properly and can buy you time.

word.


Temp to hot and air on full blast cools it down.

[g6civcx]

word.


Temp to hot and air on full blast cools it down.

It acts like a secondary radiator, but make sure you're not engaging the AC compressor because it may overheat the car even more.

[Dutchmalmiss]

Old thread revival FTL.

But are the DOHC and SOHC heater cores the same?

[hitman]

um, running the heater core at the track isnt fun.
my car is a track only car basically, but i drive it to the track, and i removed mine, looped it at the engine. no problems at all.
a solution to just looping it on a ka is if you remove all the coolant lines to the intake mani, you can just connect from the block to behind the thermo outlet area with a long big vacuum type hose. thats what i did to clean it up under there/less stuff to go wrong.