Budget built track cars

[YoungRookie]

I have been throwing the idea around of getting a 240 to slowly build up for a track car to use and at summit point race track. I wanted to see everyone elses cars that they are slowly trying to build for tack only use. I also was hoping that some people could post some tips and suggestions to help me with the whole process of building a car for this. Like what i should worry about modifying first and shit. I dont plan on having the car make a lot of horse power just something that would be fun to take down to the track on the weekends. It is going to be on a very limited budget so anyone that has any ideas for cheao mods please throw your ideas out there. I would really like to see some pictures of everyones budget built track cars, either the finished car or cars that are still in progress. Thanks ahead of time fellas and good luck on the track and be safe.

[240truk]

Are you looking to drift it? welding the diff is always a good start if you're on a budget. I always say suspension first too. Having power is not even that fun without stiffening it a little first

[LB.Motoring]

Im in the middle of a SUPER budget built track car.

AE86 300.00
Running Ka 50.00
Ka Tranny 00.00
BuddyClub Bucket 140.00
Nardy Deep 100.00


Custom mounts, Cage, and misc other, will be made by me.

and I pretty much have to buy some arms, Weld the diff, fuel cell/lines, and make some coilovers and Im set.

Its the only way I could do it, I work parttime to go to school.

Im sure when its all said and done, with rims tires and everything I should have spent 2,000 - 2,500~

[unicoladron]

bigger rear sway bar, strut tower bars, a decent set of coils. any chassis you find will most likely have blown bushings all over the place. get yourself an energy suspension master bushing kit. they are made for both s13 and s14. like the 2nd poster said, what fun is power if you can't handle it safely.

[devonkyle77]

z32 brakes.
and dont have a gf, that always helps the budget;)
lol
j/k morgan

[yudalicious]

Being a grad student that's accruing debt, I know all about budget builds. My current set up is:
-Pretty much stock KA except aftermarket exhaust, clutch, flywheel that I gathered over the years
-KTS coilovers, RUCAs, subframe spacers
-Sparco Evo driver seat, Personal wheel w/ hub and QR, stock passenger seat and stock belts
-225/50/16 RT615s w/ 16x8 Rota wheels
-Stock brakes, HP+ pads, ATE fluid (I'm going to try new compounds and possibly ducting as soon as I get a chance to)
-In the future I want to move to R comps, and with that move I will have probably a 4pt roll bar at the least with a 5 or 6 pt. harness and an accompanying passenger seat. Of course this probably won't happen until I'm out of school.

I think the trick is to keep a relatively stock engine. It'll force you to learn alot and also keep overall costs down. Good luck and happy motoring.

[240truk]

z32 brakes.
and dont have a gf, that always helps the budget;)
lol
j/k morgan

its true, that would help alot!!! Maybe thats why my car isnt built yet :bash:

[blueshark123]

its true, that would help alot!!! Maybe thats why my car isnt built yet :bash:

Deffitnetly puts a hit in ur wallet lol

[YoungRookie]

I dont really want to do drifting, pretty much just like nasa/scca auto x type racing. Maybe a few drifts events here and there or something. Imt rying to get back a coupe that i sold to a friend for 300 bucks that had no title or motor. It would be a perfect start for the project, I already have 2 spare ka's laying around, a bucket seat, some misc suspension and just some small little things that i have accumulated over the years. Does anyone have any pictures of their budget builds?

[240truk]

my sig is my budget track car. Had an SR but i got for super cheap cuz it came out of my friends crashed car.
If you dont really drift then I guess suspension, brakes and some good tires would be the way to go

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m40/julianjacobs/Car/Motoring%20J-Style/IMG_6879_Custom.jpg

[Risu2112]

I would def. prioritize Bushings, a cheap used LSD and break upgrades. A great way to keep costs down is lowering the frequency that you put your cars into the wall! :)

[Andrew Bohan]

no way, if you put your car into the wall enough times, you'll just quit racing.
saves A TON of money in the long run

[svensko]

I'll probably build a budget track car after graduation, assuming I go to grad school. I'll probably strip my chassis, get new door hinges, a new driver-side window switch or somehow wire my own, then I have a (unfortunately) long list of mods I'd like to do to it. As far as the engine, I'll stay NA KA with SOHC pistons that are have reliefs for the valves, the S13 cam combo, header, intake, flywheel, and exhaust and then focus on suspension and brakes with full poly bushings. I'll eventually finish it up with some cheap engine insurance in the form of oil/diff/tranny coolers and accusump. I'm sure it'll run me more than I want but it seems like a car I could go beat on and still daily drive without too many problems.

[SW20Racer]

it sounds like you know whats up with the suspension so heres what i have to offer.

even if you dont plan to do a whole lot of drifting, a welded diff would help you cover all your bases.

search for "free horsepower tricks", things like DIY grounding kits etc.

im taking the budget build approach with my tercel (project auto-x) and something that definitely saved me some cash was extrude honing the stock manifold ($200 compared to over $300 for an aftermarket header) and fabbing up a manifold back straight through exhaust

take horsepower to weight into consideration (along with wheel diameter)

[Andrew Bohan]

careful building a high comp KA

i did it and it blew in 300 miles
but now i know what to do :)

[svensko]

careful building a high comp KA

i did it and it blew in 300 miles
but now i know what to do :)

Please bestow your knowledge onto me. :hs:

I've considered LS1 miatas but they just seem a bit overpriced and overpowered for a beginner track car.

from http://www.racingconcepts.net/

The Holiday season is upon us (since September it seems...) and there is no better time to start an LSX Miata conversion. The LSX Miata is the perfect fulfillment of your wish for an 11 second roadster that can be built for around $10-15k. How is this possible? Check it out:

The average price of '90-'93 Miata is about $2,500.
The fair market value of an LS1/T56 drivetrain is $3,500.
Our Complete LSX Miata Conversion Kit (http://www.racingconcepts.net/product.html#loc_fullkit) is $3,499.99.
Misc. items, like cooling and fuel systems, roughly $1,500.
Total invested: $10,999.99!!!
Find the right deal on chassis/drivetrain and you can save even more! What can you expect from an LSX-powered Miata?

A 2400-2600 pound roadster that produces 285-300 horsepower/torque and retains the handling and drivability of a factory Miata.

The only advantage I see it having is that Miatas are way more common than 240SXs are sourcing parts would probably be a bit easier.

[Risu2112]

By the way I just spent 3 months looking for an LS1/ T56, it's _VERY_ difficult to find anything in half decent condition for 3500. In that 3 months the few engine+trans that I found were between 4200 and 6000. Any thing under 5000 was seriously stripped of everything, starter, alternator etc/etc/etc.

Ended up having to pay about 5k for mine after finally loosing my patience. I'm also in CA though, maybe it's just more expensive out here.

[svensko]

By the way I just spent 3 months looking for an LS1/ T56, it's _VERY_ difficult to find anything in half decent condition for 3500. In that 3 months the few engine+trans that I found were between 4200 and 6000. Any thing under 5000 was seriously stripped of everything also, starter alternator etc/etc/etc.

Ended up having to pay about 5k for mine after finally loosing my patience. I'm also in CA though, maybe it's just more expensive out here.

That's what I was afraid of. I don't think I need more than 200 HP anyways until I'm beyond comfortable with 200.

Apparently the Toyota 1UZ can be had very cheap (under a grand from what I've heard) but then fabrication would be an absolute pain. You'd also have the Nissan Nazis breathing down your back for not using a VH45 or whatever goofy engine Nissans have.

[Andrew Bohan]

5k sounds about right.

as for the KA,

i mixed some toluene with my 89 octane that was still in the tank, and came out with about 98 octane. had an safc so i played with that and the timing to get it running pretty close to ok. it was slightly slower than having a bone stock SR.

when i ran out of that tank of gas, i filled up with straight 91 and the motor blew 80 miles later.

shoulda planned out my tuning schedule a bit better.

[svensko]

5k sounds about right.

as for the KA,

i mixed some toluene with my 89 octane that was still in the tank, and came out with about 98 octane. had an safc so i played with that and the timing to get it running pretty close to ok. it was slightly slower than having a bone stock SR.

when i ran out of that tank of gas, i filled up with straight 91 and the motor blew 80 miles later.

shoulda planned out my tuning schedule a bit better.


So you're telling me to run 93 all the time? What ratio were you running?

[Andrew Bohan]

i forget the exact ratio, i just remember it came out to 98 octane.

you could probably run 91, just have to adjust timing, etc. it'd run but it'd be so weak it's not even worth having that engine :)
if you have any gas stations that have 100 at the pump that'd be cool

or just run race gas all the time.

[svensko]

Whoever repped me saying that 240 parts are "wayyyyyyy" common, please find me a wiper arm for under $15 and a driver's side window switch for under $45.

[svensko]

i forget the exact ratio, i just remember it came out to 98 octane.

you could probably run 91, just have to adjust timing, etc. it'd run but it'd be so weak it's not even worth having that engine :)
if you have any gas stations that have 100 at the pump that'd be cool

or just run race gas all the time.

Honestly I think even a stock engine would suit me as I'd be focusing a lot more on driving technique and not going weeeeeee fast.

[yudalicious]

Since when did budget build thread turn into engine swap tech thread? As I said before, take the minimalist approach, modify as little as you can, because entry fees, random parts failing, brake pads, gas, tire wear, hotels, fluids, stuff adds up FAST. And once you start driving, you'll really get a feel for what you need to and don't need to mod.

[svensko]

I'm actually curious as to where someone finds a AE86 for $300.

[chibo]

I'm actually curious as to where someone finds a AE86 for $300.I am too, I've only found shitboxes for $3k

[swiftdrift]

Whoever repped me saying that 240 parts are "wayyyyyyy" common, please find me a wiper arm for under $15 and a driver's side window switch for under $45.

Junkyards all daaaaay!

p.s. i didnt neg rep u, im just letting you know.

I'm actually curious as to where someone finds a AE86 for $300.

and my buddy just sold an 86 coupe (sr-5 of course) Running carburator motor for 500

[SW20Racer]

an 86 for under a grand isnt hard to find at all i picked up a gts hatchback for 600 with mint interior/exterior before katrina wiped out south mississippi. its all in where you look, mine was listed as "5 spd toyota 900 OBO" and the description didnt go beyond that

[YoungRookie]

Yea i was wondering why my budget built track car thread turned into a motor swap thread. Im looking for people the built 240s with the ka motor either boosted or n/a. Im just not exactly sure how i should approach the start of building the car.

I do plan on having the diff welded as opposed to buying one. I would like to run kyb agx's and ground control coils, that is unless i can find a set of used coilovers for a good price.

Obviously i would need a cage, correct?

completley strip the interior and sound deadening

Stock ka, with just intake header exhaust clutch and maybe flywheel. and a few other small things. I guess the engine mods all will depend on what class i plan on running in, correct?

Freshen up the suspension bushing and what not.

What do people suggest for good track tires that are not going to spend my entire budget? Also what 15in light wheels that i could use just for the track would people suggest looking into?

[johngriff]

First step.

Buy a welder.

Learn to Weld.

Get a grinder.

Learn to grind.

Find some metal.

Go to town.

Being fast around a track is all about keeping the throttle at 100% all the time around the track, if you can do that,then you need more power.

So safety (welder + grinder), tires, and suspension.

Keep the throttle down longer, thats it.

[devonkyle77]

john griff, hallowed be thy name.

morgan i thought you had coilovers?

[Risu2112]

I do plan on having the diff welded as opposed to buying one. I would like to run kyb agx's and ground control coils, that is unless i can find a set of used coilovers for a good price.


Um, if I was going to track a car I would rather have an open differential than a welded one... you're gonna slide right off the track from wheel hop if you weld your axles together man. Either leave it alone or pick up a cheap used limited slip.

As for tires, if you're trying to save money the best bet is picking the right size, my 240 is on 215/45/17's right now (although this is changing soon), at the time I got GS-D3's for 90$ each, tirerack currently has them for about $135, well worth it for them in my opinion. I also recomend for handling reasons to reduce your sidewall a bit by getting wheels larger than 15 inches, I like 16 or 17 better, and in many cases you'll end up saving money on tires by moving up wheel size, just poke around on tirerack to get an idea for how the size is affecting cost.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+F1+GS-D3&vehicleSearch=false&partnum=145YR7F1GSD3XL&fromCompare1=yes&place=15
Thats my recommendation any way, not sure exactly what kind of budget you had in mind.

[devonkyle77]

16 inch s14 alloy wheels work good as a sub 200hp ka wheel.

[Flybert]

Don't try to keep up with dousan and you'll be fine.

[YoungRookie]

Yeah they would If i was 5 lug devon lol. I thought i always saw people running small diameter wheels on track cars? Also i thought people liked to use wleded diffs on track cars

[yudalicious]

Yeah they would If i was 5 lug devon lol. I thought i always saw people running small diameter wheels on track cars? Also i thought people liked to use wleded diffs on track cars

Instead of being stuck on a wheel diameter, try to find popular tire sizes that also fit the 240sx (like 225/50/16, 225/45/17...). Often times you end up getting great deals (like through Tirerack) that save you money in the long run.

[Andrew Bohan]

welded diffs are good for drift cars, which don't require different inner and outer rear wheel speeds, which is what a slipping diff provides.

when you're gripping, you need the different wheel speeds for maximum grip.

[Silverbullet]

you dont really need a cage. HPDEs are for anyone's cars. As for suspension, you should look into Koni sport shocks with GCs. They cost about the same as JApanese coilovers, but they have much better dampening than just about all of them according to some dynos floating around. If your still wondering what tires to get, most road racers advise against starting out with slicks. They are tricky since they have to be in the right temp, but I've never heard anyone not recomend Falken Azenis. They are cheap and super grippy.

[YoungRookie]

So really with this coupe im getting it doesnt have a title or anything thats why i want it, i used to have it but sold it to this kid now im buying it back, anyways. I could pretty much throw one of my ka motors in there some suspension, strip the interior and go race it at the track? Do i need to have a license or anything like that?post up some vids of everysones track cars doing their work on the track

[Silverbullet]

HPDE ranges from first time on the track to pros. You get a driving instructor to sit in the car with you to help you get the jist of things. He determines whether your allowed to do this and that and how soon or how late you should brake.

[Ragnarok043]

how about cooling, is it necessary to upgrade the radiator when tracking a stock NA KA.

[Nikeboy355]

how about cooling, is it necessary to upgrade the radiator when tracking a stock NA KA.
Nah... not necessary... I go to road race track events with a stock KA and it isn't a problem...

http://nitinj.com/Images/240SX2/Cal%20Speedway%20ROVAL%201207/IMG_6526.JPG

http://nitinj.com/Images/240SX2/Cal%20Speedway%20ROVAL%201207/IMG_6489.JPG

http://nitinj.com/Images/240SX2/Cal%20Speedway%20ROVAL%201207/IMG_6536.JPG

[tacotacotaco]

I rock the stock KA also. Minimal suspension mod and lots of seat time and youll be surprised at what a 240 can do.

[YoungRookie]

Im starting to get all excited to do this, it seems like it is going to be so much fun. The car that i am more than likely going to be using use to have an sr it it. So i guess im going to need to get a whole nother ka engine harness. Would it be hard to swap another ka back into the chassis? I want to get started on this asap as soon as i find out if im getting this car back or not. If i dont then i have to start a search for a decent s13 shell.

[300hp owen]

LS1rx7 is a sick power/handling/budget setup! especially the FC rx7.

for your project car you want to make sure everything works. brakes, cooling, motor, tranny, suspension... etc. once you get a car that can take a days abuse, you can look at upgrading stuff piece by piece. for HPDEs I would just find a set of shocks and slap on some GC coilovers with somewhat stiff rates, do poly bushings if you can DIY, then look into stripping out the interior and anything you dont need like a/c, sunroof, etc.

the S13 is a great platform for HPDE stuff and can be very inexpensive to maintain if you keep your car simple and leave money in your wallet for spares (motor, wheels, tires, etc). the more simple and cheap you keep the project, the more money you have for actual track time!

good luck man, have fun!

[YoungRookie]

I honestly appreciate everyones tips and help and support that you all have given me so far, I guess you could say that im still a newb at this whole track thing but i am very familiar with the s13 i have owned 6 of them by now and im only 19. I would still like to see everyone else's cars and here what they have to say so keep the info and tips coming, and thanks again

[KA-T_240]

I went to the track with my 240 with all sort of toys and lots of power..... I wish I didn't. I was to preoccupied with going fast(I was getting up to 140mph on the front straight with a corner that you could take as fast as you want for turn 1) and using the power to get around the course, instead of using the handling and driving skills.

I am going to go back this year with my other car with basic mods(lowered, STB, alignment, rims/tires, and some NA mods. I feel it well be more then enought. And It will be a better learning experience. And then go back in the futher with my KA-T car with all the goodies to further my skills.

I did my events at Brainerd International Raceway. The instructors all like the RT615, 3 of them have them on there personal cars.

[98GM6rd]

I dont really want to do drifting, pretty much just like nasa/scca auto x type racing. Maybe a few drifts events here and there or something. Imt rying to get back a coupe that i sold to a friend for 300 bucks that had no title or motor. It would be a perfect start for the project, I already have 2 spare ka's laying around, a bucket seat, some misc suspension and just some small little things that i have accumulated over the years. Does anyone have any pictures of their budget builds?

budget, ya. scca or nasa. you can go to the website and see what you want to race in. you can easily download the rule book. just knowing that, you can see wut you can get by with. some classes require chromoly cage some allow mild steel, some require up to date fia approved seats, harness and dot approved helmits, some dont. there are even tire specs, power regulations, and drivetrain specs. some dont allow cars older than 8years.

so to also save money, if the class you want to race doesn't require it. dont get it.

[98GM6rd]

plus to improve skill. start off small, dont do huge power mods or baller expensive suspension stuff. you want to start with slightly underpowered car, and put a set of lowering springs. go in and have fun. the tires you have stock are ok. in japan we call it guntas. crap wheels, they reach point of abrasion faster, cheap to replace to used tires, and you learn more steering control and you learn a lot about your car aswell.

so try the stock class, get some lowering springs and a helmit and go!

[devonkyle77]

nikeboy, thats a pretty clean engine bay , props

[gotta240]

Heres what you do.

BUY A CAR.
DRIVE ABOVE CAR AT TRACK.

DONE.

[sideview_180sx]

a budget built track car. leave it stock. become a better driver instead. if you need to upgrade anything. pads/rotors, cooling system(including brake ducts, oil/steering coolers). This advice comes from my friend who is very fast in H4 honda challenge, along with his friends who are writers/editors of primedia magazines. IE mike kojima, johnny mac, andy hope among others. save your money and dont get mods become a faster driver thru slower equipment, then do it bit by bit.

a guy who has an s2k has done this same method, and now has the fastest lap times for NA 2L along the west coast. here is his website www.maxrev.net


PS and if you want a track car. buy someone else' completed car. saves you time and $$$

[s13.dark1]

Are you looking to drift it? welding the diff is always a good start if you're on a budget. I always say suspension first too. Having power is not even that fun without stiffening it a little first
so quick question i been wondering y weld the diff? explain:confused:

[Bubbles]

Another vote for not welding the diff unless you plan to drift.

[YoungRookie]

Okay so it looks like im not going to be welding the diff? Would it be best to leave the diif compleltey open, get a vlsd, or what? Would I be alright starting out tracking the car with an intake, custom exhaust springs, bucket seat and just little shit like that? That wouldnt be too many mods to start out with would it? cuz i have all the stuff laying in the garage already

[yudalicious]

Okay so it looks like im not going to be welding the diff? Would it be best to leave the diif compleltey open, get a vlsd, or what? Would I be alright starting out tracking the car with an intake, custom exhaust springs, bucket seat and just little shit like that? That wouldnt be too many mods to start out with would it? cuz i have all the stuff laying in the garage already

Just throw whatever you have already on and go, don't think about anything else. Remember HPDE is not a race, check your ego at the door, don't even think about going fast the first few sessions or even first day out, stick to the line and staying smooth, that's going to pay much bigger dividends later on.

[naed240sx]

how about cooling, is it necessary to upgrade the radiator when tracking a stock NA KA.

No, but I highly suggest replacing the radiator with an oem replacement type radiator with metal endtanks. I had an oem plastic endtank explode on me once.

I also suggest running 80% water, 20% coolant and water wetter. Should be enough to keep temps nice and low.

[Risu2112]

Okay so it looks like im not going to be welding the diff? Would it be best to leave the diif compleltey open, get a vlsd, or what? Would I be alright starting out tracking the car with an intake, custom exhaust springs, bucket seat and just little shit like that? That wouldnt be too many mods to start out with would it? cuz i have all the stuff laying in the garage already


An LSD would be a very significant improvement over an open, you'll be able to accelerate/break much better while going into and coming out of turns. I would prioritize this very highly when you decide where to put money into the car.

Also what are "custom exhaust springs" ?

[veilside180sx]

No SCCA or NASA class requires chromo for cages. They require DOM or chromo and rule out ERW.

budget, ya. scca or nasa. you can go to the website and see what you want to race in. you can easily download the rule book. just knowing that, you can see wut you can get by with. some classes require chromoly cage some allow mild steel, some require up to date fia approved seats, harness and dot approved helmits, some dont. there are even tire specs, power regulations, and drivetrain specs. some dont allow cars older than 8years.

so to also save money, if the class you want to race doesn't require it. dont get it.

[Koopa Troopa]

Just drive your car as is and upgrade accordingly to what you think needs to be changed later on. My car is more interesting then half the "tack only" cars on this site and I've had dude's in almost bone stock cars riding my ass.

It's skill not how the car's built.

As for first mods? A good steering wheel and bucket seat are my favorite. Brakes don't really need to be changed until you feel you need more. A good pad and tire will go far when it comes to stopping the car.

[YoungRookie]

I didn't mean custom exhaust springs I meant custom exhaust and lowering springs. I missed a comma in there lol. I have I wheel, hub, and quick release that I'm going to use off of one of my other cars. I also have a bucket seat in my friends garage that is going to be put in the track car.

[YoungRookie]

should i worry with up grading brake pads at first or no?

[devonkyle77]

z32 brakes man, come on now

[YoungRookie]

devon you know I don't have enough money to do z32 brakes c'mon know lol

[AceInHole]

Good brake pads on stock brakes will be better than cheap brake pads on z32 brakes.

[DOOK]

Good brake pads on stock brakes will be better than cheap brake pads on z32 brakes.

you youngster may wanna listen to this guy, he knows he stuff.

[YoungRookie]

Hey Ace, what good brake pads could i put on the stock brakes that will be good for track only use? Would i really need to put them on the rear too, or would just putting them on ther front be sufficient enough? I notice that you do a lot of tracking with your car/cars, do you think you could give me any pointers that would help me out along the way and help with the process of building up the track car that im going to be using, which is an s13 coupe that im putting a dualcam ka in and keeping it N/A

[DOOK]

I already know what he's gonna say (porterfield), but I'll let him answer.
http://www.rpsport.net/c=LeeoBA0u1LljmV6kBeIaoIVek/category/porterfield_brakes.nissan_s13/

[YoungRookie]

LOL thanks dook, what about the hawk pads that are for race use? are they good?

[DOOK]

I don't have any experience with them.

[YoungRookie]

anyone else have any experience with the hawk race pads? I talked to a guy at my work that used them on his wrx and he likes them. But i want to hear from someone who used them on a s13 track car.

[Andrew Bohan]

my friend tried a j30/q45 setup

here's what he said about it:
"If you want to know the honest truth, well-maintained factory S13 calipers are WAY BETTER if you do any kind of road racing and don't mind paying for some EXCELLENT track pads (Cobalt Friction or Hawk Blues I have used before, and they do not fade, EVER). The XP-8s are actually pretty rotor friendly, so they're daily drivable. Don't even think about daily driving with Hawk Blues, you'll be missing a 1/4" of rotor steel on each side after a month!"

[YoungRookie]

Well the car is not going to EVER be driven on the street or daily driven so i will be able to use full on race pads. But like your friend said with the hawk blue pads about missing a 1/4 in of the rotor after a month. How fast would i go through rotors since it is a track ONLY car. Should i just use oem replacement rotors then from like napa or autozone or where ever since they are cheap, keeping in mind that this is going to be a very BUDGET track car.

[spool_sample]

Well the car is not going to EVER be driven on the street or daily driven so i will be able to use full on race pads. But like your friend said with the hawk blue pads about missing a 1/4 in of the rotor after a month. How fast would i go through rotors since it is a track ONLY car. Should i just use oem replacement rotors then from like napa or autozone or where ever since they are cheap, keeping in mind that this is going to be a very BUDGET track car.

Yes, cheap rotors FTW. Beat the everliving shit out of them, and when they wear out, just replace them. No need to worry about saving them or getting them turned because they are usually so cheap it doesn't matter... especially if you stick with the small stock brakes. I've only ever used cheap auto store brake rotors and have no complaints.

And if you really wanted to drive the car on the street to events, you could always: a) get a good dual-duty pad like the XP8s, or the BHP CR6s if they ever release a version for stock S13 calipers or b) keep stock pads and just swap the pads out at the track. Hell, if you plan to keep it N/A KA and run street tires, you might even be able to get away with AX6s. But if you go to any sort of R-comp, you'll need something better.

[Koopa Troopa]

I'd just use the stock crap till it gets so hot it catches on fire....

[Andrew Bohan]

i went on a touge run once where the stock brakes caught on fire.

1-2" flames. that was pretty cool.

[AceInHole]

I've been running Hawk pads on my car, mostly since they offer contingency for SCCA ProSolo. I have HP+ pads on my car, mostly since ProSolo is a sprint format. They'd be fine for light track use where you're not out on course for longer periods of time, and they'll be less abusive to rotors than pure track oriented pads.

For track use, you'll probably start with Hawk Blues and experiment from there, but for a budget car they should be more than enough. As I stated above, track oriented pads are pretty abusive, and even Solo guys will wear rotors down on an event to event basis with certain compounds.

For rotors, I've always run cheap blanks (NAPA) and haven't had problems. It's a bit easier to justify running newer rotors rather than trying to scrimp in an extra event or two. I'm not sure what the more intensive track guys are running, as I've never seen it brought up.


The only real advice I can give:
For racing in any form, build for reliability first, then for speed. Breaking down at any level is never worth shaving some time or money here and there. Good luck!

[Nikeboy355]

anyone else have any experience with the hawk race pads? I talked to a guy at my work that used them on his wrx and he likes them. But i want to hear from someone who used them on a s13 track car.
I run stock S13 calipers and rotors with race pads on my S13 track car...
I've ran the Hawk Blues and now I run the Carbotech XP10s...

Both are greats pads but I there is good and bad to both of them...

The Hawk Blues dust like crazy and wear out really fast... Like 2-3 events and they are done... But the pedal feel is really nice... Much more progressive than the Carbotechs...

The Carbotechs last 4-5 events and brake just as good or better than the Hawk Blues but they don't have the range of feel that the Blues have... I've ran a 40 minute session at California Speedway braking from 135MPH to 40MPH and these never faded at all...

The Hawks costed $100 and the Carbotechs were $140... Both pretty expensive pads... For rotors I run Autozone blanks and just get them replaced on "warranty return" each time... Just keep your receipt and tell them that they wore down too fast...

I use the Valvoline brake fluid and check the bleeding every couple of events...

Criticism from an instructor(and professional Speed Challenge driver) said that bigger brakes would give me a much better feel... Right now he says it's like an on/off switch... Too little pressure and it doesn't do anything and too much and it will lock up fast... When he drove my car his exact words were "They really want to lock up on you fast... I was like fuck that, I'm braking early also"...

But my car with only stock brakes and a stock KA can still hang with new Porsches... And that's what matters...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbKMUkjOuh4

http://nitinj.com/Images/240SX2/Buttonwillow%201207/IMG_0269.JPG

[wannabe_drifter]

I was wondering about brake pads also, I need to buy some when I take the 240 out of the garage.

Has anyone heard about/tired EBC brake pads. I know they make really good mountain bike brake pads, and going on their website I found out they also make brake pads for car. But I never met anyone who has tried them...

Anyone ??

[YoungRookie]

From everyones past experience of tracking cars and doing a budget track car, do you think that with me being only 19 yeras old will be able to afford this and keep up with the maitnence? I mean i have been turning wrenches for probably 7 or so years now so working on the car is not going to be a problem since i have plenty of garage space at my houser too. But i mean keeping enough extra money each weekto support this hobby? my friend and i are suppose to be splitting the price of everything right down the middle but i think im going to be the one doing most/all the work on the car and be the one who pays for most the shit.

[yudalicious]

I assume you want to do HPDEs, here's some sites that I use to find events and info:
motorsportreg.com
trackschedule.com
I've come across other good ones, but can't remember.

You can also always look on the site of the specific track and see if they have a calendar of events. Local PCA, BMCCA, miata clubs, stang clubs, etc. usually put out great events that are affordable. Entry fees for a typical 2 day event is around 300-400 (from what I've seen along the south/east coast, YMMV in Cali), add in gas, food, hotel (to really cut costs, camp at the track). It's a good idea to set aside some cash to deal with unexpected stuff, on top of the anticipated wear to rotors, pads, tires, etc. Like I said before, just do an event and see how you like it, don't worry about the set up other than maintenance. You can also spectate at an event and walk around and talk to people, which is usually free or very cheap.

PS: Thanks for the brake info Ace and Nike.


From everyones past experience of tracking cars and doing a budget track car, do you think that with me being only 19 yeras old will be able to afford this and keep up with the maitnence? I mean i have been turning wrenches for probably 7 or so years now so working on the car is not going to be a problem since i have plenty of garage space at my houser too. But i mean keeping enough extra money each weekto support this hobby? my friend and i are suppose to be splitting the price of everything right down the middle but i think im going to be the one doing most/all the work on the car and be the one who pays for most the shit.

[junkyiv]

I run Hawk HP Plus pads on Powerslot rotors and stock calipers. Night and day from stock and more than enough stopping power for stock KA and propper braking techniques. As for your buddies splitting the cost for events it sound like a good idea on paper but rarely ends up working out. If you own the car then you'll likely be the one who ends up paying. Not saying anything bad about your friends just the way it happens most of the time. $300 budget for a 1 day event SHOULD cover you for most things and leave you with some to save for the next event, provided you don't run into MAJOR problems. Sound like you are asking valid and well thought out questions, keep it up and good luck.

[YoungRookie]

junkyiv i was kinda figuring that my friend is not going to be splitting everything exactly with me lol. Thats why i would like to get like a couple friends involved and have everyone just chip in a little money and go to the events with me ya know. Its always good to have a few spare hands with you. Plus camping out at the tracks would be a blast too just talking to everyone and learning shit. I cant wait till the ball actually gets rolling with this and i get to my first event.
I do plan on running in hpde events and i wanted to know if they require flame retardent suits or not? I dont think so but i just wanted to make sure. Is it possible to do my first year or so in the hpde events mod the car along the way and then actualy do competitions? Is that how a lot of people do it?

Im just asking all these questions because i want to make sure i know what im getting into before i actually "get into" it. But i appreciate everyones contribution to this and everything. There are still going to be plenty more questions so keep on chipping in advice fellas, thanks.

Morgan

[junkyiv]

Most HPDE events do not require special fire retardant clothing or suits. Usually its natural fiber clothing like cotton(no nylon etc.) which do not readily catch fire same goes for your shoes(suede or leather upper being preferable). Some require long sleeve shirts and most require gloves and long pants and of course a helmet, usually SA(automotive) rated. As far as just getting started you can drive any car which passes tech inspection which usually amounts to common sense upkeep(no fluid leaks, battery secured, seatbelts, etc.) so don't feel the need to go crazy with mods right away. Be sure to download a tech sheet from whichever group you plan on running with(NASA, SCCA etc.). Most HPDE will put you into a beginner group with classroom instruction in basic safety and some technique. Learn to build your skill from "zero" and go from there. Learn to drive safely and then learn to drive your car at its max potential BEFORE adding power. A stock KA should provide a beginner with enough power to learn good driving technique without getting you in too much trouble.
It's always good to have friends there to help and hang out so know that I got nothing against that. Just wanted to caution against depending on others for your expenses. That said I hope they can help out and have fun with you. Keep it comin'.

[spool_sample]

I do plan on running in hpde events and i wanted to know if they require flame retardent suits or not? I dont think so but i just wanted to make sure. Is it possible to do my first year or so in the hpde events mod the car along the way and then actualy do competitions? Is that how a lot of people do it?

Im just asking all these questions because i want to make sure i know what im getting into before i actually "get into" it. But i appreciate everyones contribution to this and everything. There are still going to be plenty more questions so keep on chipping in advice fellas, thanks

You don't need a fire suit, just an SA-rated helmet. You might want to try to find a used one that's still in spec because those can run you $300 or so new.

You can do whatever mods you want to a car if you stick with HPDEs, but keep in mind, that will change if you want to move into competitions. If you do HPDEs with NASA, the next step up is Time Trial... you'll want to keep these rules handy as you modify the car to make sure that you end up in the class you want. Some of them are a little questionable (for example, a strut tower bar takes points, but seam-welding the chassis is free), so you have to be careful you don't get stuck on a technicality.

www.nasa-tt.com (http://www.nasa-tt.com)

[devonkyle77]

let me know when you go to the track morgan, id like to run my car, or atleast attend.

[YoungRookie]

will for sure let you know devon, you can even help along the way with the build if you want to. im picking up this grey coupe for 200 bucks with everything except the motor, i just need to swap in the dual cam motor that we have and we should be good motor wise, but i want to put solid mounts in there and a clutch before i drop the motor into the car.

[YoungRookie]

I just got the bucket seat to my house that i will be using in the car. It is a MOMO corse or something like that. Anyways the sticker on the side says fta approved or whatever but it says 1995 or something on it. Would this bucket be good enough to use since it is approved or is it too old? I really hope that it will work so I dont have to buy another one. I didnt even know but it has a 4pt sparco harness with it, so score for one more freebie :)

Also a buddy of mine told me that the sr clutch that i have would work on my ka if i used one of the flywheels from the older hardbody trucks or whatever. He said its like the white bunny special but just using the sr clutch with the hardbody truck flywheel. Im pretty sure thats how he said it would work. Can anyone else elaborate on this?

[devonkyle77]

i think white bunny is z31 flywheel, not sure.
just search white bunny special on here.

[Jgrand03]

white bunny clutch setup is flywheel from a the nissan hardbody the one with the single cam ka in it and then a z31 or 280z turbo clutchdisk and pressure plate i thought

[YoungRookie]

Yea im pretty sure thats what the white bunny clutch is, But my buddy thinks that i will be able to use this sr clutch set that i have if i pick up the hardbody truck flywheel.

[YoungRookie]

So does anyone kno the answer to what i asked about the bucket seat that i have that the sticker on it that says fta aprroved or whatever but it says 1995. Is it too old to use for a seat cuz it says 1995 or would it be find to use?