Help with SR accelerating issue!

[duffman1278]

Well my problem is that I can't seem to accelerate my car without "pumping" the throttle. If I just go from closed throttle to wide open I can't seem to get the car to accelerate, even at idle.

Its an S13 SR redtop
370CC injectors

I replaced my MAF and am able to rev all the way to redline with ease.
I also checked my TPS, and its set at .37V closed.
I replaced the injectors with new ones from DW because there was always a cyclinder that kept flooding, even after changing the o-rings.
I've checked my timing at least 4 times already.
My vacuum is at 15Hg

I checked for boost leaks already with a boost leak tester and fixed the leaks. I dunno what else to look for really, so any suggestions would help.

[ecuastyle84]

you sure you didnt replace the maf with a bad one?....i would check fuel pressure...maybe even spark plugs

[cotbu]

I like my tps @ .45~v but, it may not be your problem. Test your mafs. You said you checked your timing. What was it? What's the condition of your clutch?

[duffman1278]

My clutch is brand new. I'm going to see if I can find someone with a MAF I guess from a working SR.

As for the fuel pressure, I'll probably need to hook up a gauge to my line since I don't have one right now

Spark plugs are brand new

[SidewayZ-s14]

Check your fuel pump. Had a problem very similiar to that. Once i changed my fuel pump, worked like a charm.

Good luck!

[duffman1278]

But the fuel pumps brand new

[duffman1278]

I turned on the car for awhile today after making sure my IC tubes were nice and tight, and also that the vacuum lines were tight. However, it was still the same results. hits 3500RPM at full throttle and wont pass that unless I "pump" the throttle. When I got back home though, I took out the spark plugs from the cylinders and noticed my number 2 cyclinder was STILL flooded, and seemed a bit worst. I could smell some fuel in the oil, so I'll be changing the oil for that before I drive it again. btw, I allowed tried allowing my cyclinder to evaporate the fuel by pulling out the spark plug for a whole day, doesn't seem to really go away. My other cylinders are dry, its just that number 2. I'll be making a fuel pressure gauge this week to hook up to the fuel line and see what I'm at..

[lazy240]

hey if you want to take the fuel out of the cylinder unples the injector and take out all the spark plugs and turn the motor over a couple of times till theres no more fuel in there

[duffman1278]

I'll try that this week a than, thanks. I also forgot to mention that I readjusted the TPS to .4V closed.

It was at 4.0V at WOT. But that was BEFORE I took it for a drive.

[SHIFT_*grind*]

You seem to have gone pretty in depth with checking things over so you've probably already done this, but did you check your #2 coil pack? Try pulling it out while the car's idling and see if that affects anything, or use your timing gun to see if it's getting spark.

Also worth mentioning that -15 in vacuum seems a little low, my mostly stock SR pulls 19-20.

[duffman1278]

O yea, thanks for the idea shift, I forgot to try the coilpack thing. I'll try unplugging that as well. I changed over some vacuum lines last night also with something that would fit tighter to see if that helps.

[duffman1278]

Alright, so I didn't get to turn on the car today but I turned the key all the way so that the fuel pump came on and I took a pic of the pressure in my fuel. I dunno if this helps but tomorrow I'll take another one with the car on.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/duffman1278/Fuel%20Pressure%20Gauge/DSC03933.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/duffman1278/Fuel%20Pressure%20Gauge/DSC03938.jpg

[fakts13]

@43psi w/o vacuum is right for most cars, so it looks like your fuel pressure is good. check your #2 injector wiring, you might have a short, causing the injector to stay open and flood the cylinder. even if you're not getting spark in that cylinder, you shouldn't be flooding it with the stock injectors, it seems more like it's stuck open if it's flooding.

[duffman1278]

Hmm I gotta find out how to look for a short than. Thanks alot

[fakts13]

if you have a noid light, see if it stays on when on the #2 injector plug (harness side), or if it blinks. if it blinks, it's more than likely okay. if it stays on, you have a short. this should help you in determining if trying to find a short is worth your time or not. also, have you checked to see if the seal on injector 2 is good? i know you said you put new o-rings, but maybe something might be wrong with the rail?? it's a long shot but you never know.. just unbolt the fuel rail, turn fuel pump on and see if anything is dripping/leaking out of that injector area.

[808_Drift]

Yea i used to have similar problem with my spark plugs, also like the others said check your coilpacks since they can cause similar problems. Also check the engine harness around the fuel rail area. I had a clip broken on my old one and sometimes it would not connect. I hope this helps and i hope you figure it out!

[duffman1278]

Alright so I'll check for that stuff later on in the day today and hopefully it fixes it. I've taken the fuel rail out before and turned the key on just before starting it and NOTHING leaks out. I even put a towel to it and there were no marks on it. Kind of a noob at electrical but is a noid light a test light?

[duffman1278]

So today I cranked the motor a few times without the fuel pump on to try and get out the excess fuel. After that I blew some air into the cyclinder to dry it up.

I also changed my vacuum lines with brand new ones but now the car wont even idle anymore!

I noticed that my fuel pressure when I pumped the throttle from the engine bay, was going from 39-40 psi. I dunno if thats normal?

I'm uploading a video right now which I'll post up asap.

[KasperSlide]

adj. tps to .45-.5V. a noid light checks the pulse of the inj. it will light up when the inj. opens

[duffman1278]

I don't have a noid light but I did use a stetescope and I could hear a constant *click click click click click* sound. I'll go adjust the TPS soon. Thanks

[duffman1278]

Here's the video
http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/duffman1278/?action=view&current=MOV03939.flv

[duffman1278]

I readjusted my TPS so that it was .32V closed throttle and the idle was perfect, it went back to normal HOWEVER, when it was running, I decided to pull each injector plug individually and I noticed that as I pulled them, all but the second cylinder were were causing the engine to turn off. When I unplugged the second cylinder injector, the engine ran normal at idle, as if I did nothing to it.

[fakts13]

have you pulled out the #2 coil while the engine is running and checking to see if it sparks?

[duffman1278]

I'm gonna swap coil packs with one that works tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. But last time I checked, which was awhile back, their was spark on all 4 coils. I'll test it again tomorrow.

[fakts13]

also, are you sure it's fuel that's filling up the cylinder? maybe it's oil instead?

[duffman1278]

Hmmm, thats a good point. How would I clean that out though? And really, it doesn't look like oil at all, has more of a thin liquid type of look, not thick.

[fakts13]

does it smell like gasoline? that's the easiest way to tell. (smell the spark plug)

[duffman1278]

O YEA!, smells like it big time.

[duffman1278]

So today I swapped the coilpack with one that works and still didn't make a difference, which means its not the coilpacks.

I also pulled out the plug injector that is causing all the problems to see if it would make a difference. Well like the video will show, the car runs the same with or without the injector plug in. What could be going on? I might order a set of noid lights this week unless someones got one local that I can use to test out?

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/duffman1278/Trouble%20Shoot/?action=view&current=MOV03958.flv

[fakts13]

did you actually check the coil to see if it's sparking? coil might not be the problem, maybe the wiring is bad. pull the coil out , plug it in and put a spark plug on it while touching the thread on the spark plug to the valve cover or intake manifold. that will tell you if you're actually getting spark or not.

[duffman1278]

Yea, I forgot to do that, but I'll definitely do that tomorrow. And probably pick up a noid light from autozone.

Can someone also verify if this is the pin to check for continuity from the 2nd injector to the ECU?
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/duffman1278/Trouble%20Shoot/untitled.jpg

[cotbu]

yes, that is correct

[downshift_sideways]

I was just going to tell you to look at the wiring for the injector2 on the ECU pinout.

[duffman1278]

I'm uploading another video of me testing the continuity but here's what I found. I went ahead and tested continuity to both wires that come from the injector and they all have continuity to the ECU, however, one of them was giving me .004 ohm, the rest were .000 across the meter.

Also, I noticed that one port on the injector gave me continuity on 2 different pins on the ECU, the other one only gave me continuity on 1 pin.

Edit: I took note of which pins were getting continuity like I said up there, so just ignore the top.

So looking at the injector from the injectors point of view, the left slot got continuity from the ECU's pins # 101,109,111,104,105(.004ohm),108(.004ohm),116(.004 ohm,115(.004ohm),112(.004ohm) If there's no number in parenthesis next to the pin it just means it was at .000ohm's for that pin

Now if you switch over to the other slot their was only continuity in pin # 102 at .000ohms.

So I'm assuming its the ECU????

I tried a working injector plug and the same left slot got the same results as above, just some different pins and it still had .004ohm's on a few pins.

[JJ240]

I know you said you swapped the coilpacks and it didn't make a difference, but when you swapped them did you check to make sure the spark plug was firing with the new coilpack? Also what ignitor are you using? Stock or rewired for Q45?

[duffman1278]

Rewired for the Q45. I know the other coilpack fires because if I release the plug while the engines running, the engine starts to die. I'm going to check for spark on this second cylinder as soon as my dad gets home.

[duffman1278]

I checked for spark by grounding it, and yes it is getting spark, so I'm going to try and get a hold of an ECU from a redtop. If anyones local and willing to let me try theirs out before I buy one, that would be awsome. If not than I'll have to buy one.

[fakts13]

you got pm duffman

[didderson]

Have you used the heavythrottle wiring diagram for the q45 igniter wiring? It almost confused me till greeneyes said no, it's this way. I forget which way it reads but make sure you check it. Maybe you were wrong like how I was almost wrong.

[duffman1278]

Yea I checked it, and I had it right. Ends up my ECU will be here tomorrow, and let everyone know.

[DunG HAB SP]

whats compression ?? and uhmm whats resistance on your injectors?

[duffman1278]

I havn't done a compression check in awhile, long while, but when I did it was like 165 +/- 2 across the 4 cylinders. Injectors are brand new as stated before, and resistance is fine 0 ohms

[fakts13]

injectors should not be 0 ohms. they should read around 12~14 ohms as they are saturated injectors. unless you wired in a resistor box for low impedance peak&hold injectors, then they should be around 4 ohms.

[duffman1278]

I'll check it out today before class.

[duffman1278]

Alright well I swapped out the ECU's and my baby girl turned on smoothER. I let it warm up than reved it up and it went up smooth with no hesitation or any noticable hesitation. I'm going to take it for a test drive on saturday and post up how it turned out.

[808_Drift]

glad to hear you got it up and running :D

[lanc3slideS14]

take it to dori 2 garage

[duffman1278]

^^^ For what?? lol

[LB.Motoring]

take it to dori 2 garage

lol,

random plug......... For Shame.