Oil Fun: Flushing your Engine

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Well, I had a loud ticking noise that matched the revs coming from my fucking engine bay for about 2 weeks on my 104,000 mile 240sx. I was about 100 miles past my last 3,000 mile change according to the valvoline sticker left behind by the previous owner. (Come to think of it, those fucks might have marked it according to the Nissan 3,750 mile 'recommendation'<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>.

Anyway, I checked the oil yesterday. Jesus fuck, that was low. I went and got a quart of Valvoline 10w30 Synth Blend and dumped it in there. STILL BELOW MINIMUM. So I went and got three quarts of Valvoline 10w30 Synth Blend. Put another in, drove it around the block, noise went away.

I shelved the other two quarts then went back to autozone. I'm friends with a guy that has been racing for a while now (drives a 300zxTT at age 29) and he recommended I do a flush. Below is what I did.

I put in 1 quart of Engine Gook (gray bottle). I idled the engine for 5 minutes.

I pulled off the valvoline filter and drained the oil. Next, I put on a cheap STP filter. I added:

1 quart 0w30 oil.
2 quarts Automatic Transmission Fluid.
1 quart Gook.

Now, I idled for 15 minutes, then revved to 2,000 for 20 seconds. I turned it off, drained it, threw out the STP filter.

Finally, I put on a Mobil 1 filter and added 3 + 3/4 quarts Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 10w30. He said that the flush procedure should negate the need to run synth blend for a while.

Anyway, after putting the Mobil 1 in, I went out to Plano Parkway (it was dark now) and went to test out the performance. First gear, turned corner slightly, GUN!

VRUMMMM 6400 rpm.... clutch in, shift to second, clutch dumped, gas slammed.

Nice rear-end hop.

VRUMMMM 6400rpm.... clutch in, shift to third, clutch dumped, gas slammed.

Jesus, this ride is fucking faster than it was when I bought it.

Anyway, my friend said he flushed his engine once (sometimes twice) every oil change. It costs as much as a cheap filter ($3) plus the ATF, Gook, and 0w30, but it is totally worth it. My tick is 100% gone, the engine runs like fucking new, and runs better than it did when I got it (and it was running very well then).

[hurleyboi514]

dude, thats sweeet.... &nbsp;i think i will do that on my next oil change. &nbsp;thanks for sharing... &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'> its little things like this that make the car better.

[Nerfdude]

imagine that, the engine runs better than it did when it was almost dry of oil. who'da thunk it.

and wait, did you put ATF in your oil? or did you put ATF in your ATF resevoir, in which case you have no clutch and can't shift, and are lying?

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Nerfdude @ Sep. 30 2002,2:21)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">imagine that, the engine runs better than it did when it was almost dry of oil. who'da thunk it.

and wait, did you put ATF in your oil? or did you put ATF in your ATF resevoir, in which case you have no clutch and can't shift, and are lying?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
This was uncalled for. &nbsp;And he put it in his valvecover.

But...
Am I the only one that thinks this is a bad idea? &nbsp;I mean... I don't know the viscosity of ATF, or how it reacts to heat. &nbsp;But it is extremely thin, and used more for the hydraulic parts of the tranny, as opposed to keeping steel slugs from scraping cylinder walls at 2,000 revs per minute.
I don't know... but I would never try this. &nbsp;ESPECIALLY on my turbo.

I guess what I want is someone to prove this is a good thing and change my mind.
-Jeff

[uiuc240]

ATF is noted in many auto circles as a good internal cleaner. &nbsp;And it's not a problem to put some in and run your engine for a while. &nbsp;Many DSM guys use a mixture of that and water to clean out carbon deposits...they just disconnect a vacuum hose and let it suck in while the engine is running at about 2500 rpm.

He didn't LEAVE the ATF in there...just put it in, ran it a bit, dumped it out, and refilled with good stuff. &nbsp;Very common practice. &nbsp;Only reason I haven't done it is that I'm worried that I might lose my rear main seal if I clean out the gunk.

Oh, and also, ATF is not that thin. &nbsp;PS fluid is, but ATF is fairly thick. &nbsp;And it's still petroleum based...it just doesn't have the same properties as motor oil.

Anyway...

Eric

[wpayne]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Anyway, my friend said he flushed his engine once (sometimes twice) every oil change. It costs as much as a cheap filter ($3) plus the ATF, Gook, and 0w30, but it is totally worth it. My tick is 100% gone, the engine runs like fucking new, and runs better than it did when I got it (and it was running very well then).</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

Hey, thanks for the tip on that mixture but you should tell your friend not too flush that much. Flushing solutions contain acidic chemicals to get rid of the "gunk" but it also eats away at your rings and seals so just watch out. Once in a while is ok.

[Nerfdude]

hmm. ok, i'll stop being an ass and try that next time i change my oil.... which is coming up in about another 500 miles, or two weeks.
castrol GTX high mileage, baby...

[SSJ2Gohan]

Thanks for the info. &nbsp;I cant wait to give it a shot myself. &nbsp;I have about 93K on mine and its running great but it can always run better.

[240Stilo]

While we're on the topic of changing oil...I used to have a problem with my engine making some sort of rattling noise everytime I would start it up in the morning (95 S14). I solved this by using a handy dandy Nissan oil filter which the guy that works there claims to be good due to a bypass valve it has I believe. I took his word for it and what do you know, no more rattling noise when I start it up. Mobil 1 10w30 also showed to make the car run really well. I highly recommend both of these products for your next oil change. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>

[silvsx]

I've been told by many mechanic friends that ATF has a viscosity of (roughly) 5w30, and is safe to use for an engine flush.
- I wouldn't try on a turbo though

[SSJ2Gohan]

Well just a update on this flush procedure. &nbsp;Just did it yesterday and it feels like a new engine was just dropped in! &nbsp;Its revv happy now. &nbsp;I did use fully synthetic 10w30 mobil 1, but thats the only diff.

Only problem was my garage stank for the rest of the day from the atf fluid!

[Itsuki]

Ive been told to be carefull when flushing a cars engine that has alot of miles on it, because if there is gunk in the engine then when you flush it all the gunk goes straight into the oil pan...and then sits in the pan and it could cuase problems to the oil pump, because the pump is sucking and it could clog the screen with all the gunk you just flushed out of your engine...

[flipboi13]

Yeah, thats true, just hope you get most of it out when you drain your oil.

[drifterx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (uiuc240 @ Sep. 30 2002,4:32)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">ATF is noted in many auto circles as a good internal cleaner. And it's not a problem to put some in and run your engine for a while. Many DSM guys use a mixture of that and water to clean out carbon deposits...they just disconnect a vacuum hose and let it suck in while the engine is running at about 2500 rpm.

He didn't LEAVE the ATF in there...just put it in, ran it a bit, dumped it out, and refilled with good stuff. Very common practice. Only reason I haven't done it is that I'm worried that I might lose my rear main seal if I clean out the gunk.

Oh, and also, ATF is not that thin. PS fluid is, but ATF is fairly thick. And it's still petroleum based...it just doesn't have the same properties as motor oil.

Anyway...

Eric</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
WATER?<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> no one questioned it? oil and water dont mix... oil just floats on top of water so what si the water going to do?
water in my engine internals.... i am not motor expert but i wouldnt think of doing that

[SSJ2Gohan]

Hmmm its been about 100 miles now and i havent noticed any problems.

I have always used additives and shit to keep the internals clean so I dont imagine a ton of gunk came down into the oil pan.

Maybe next time ill pull that off and clean it. &nbsp;Kind of a pain but might be worth it.


Anyways, the car feels great.

Oh and I wouldnt ever put water in my engine!

[flipboi13]

The vacuum lines are part of the intake, and head for the combustion chamber, they will burn up there, not mix with the oil. Still, water in the combustion chamber sounds bad... but at idle I guess it wouldn't cause any detonation problems...

Besides, rebuilding the engine from top to bottom is much more fun, isn't it?

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (SSJ2Gohan @ Oct. 09 2002,8:10)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Maybe next time ill pull that off and clean it. Kind of a pain but might be worth it.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
You're either nuts, or a masichist. &nbsp;Or both. &nbsp;You really don't want to drop your oil pan. &nbsp;It is kinda time consuming and a pain in the ass. &nbsp;Here is a basic step by step:
1- Jack up car.
2- Unbolt motor mounts
3- Unbolt tranny mounts
4- Disconnect stock intake from motor
5- Jack up motor about 6-8"
6- Unloosen more than a dozen screws from oil pan
7- Wiggle, slide and curse trying to get the oil pan out
8- Unbolt oil pump suction thing while oil pan is still on.
9- Scrape old forma-gasket off. &nbsp;Clean well.
10- Re-apply forma-gasket.
11- CAREFULLY slide oilpan /w gasket crap on, without touching it.
12- Do steps 1-10 in reverse order.
It'll take a long, long, long time to do. &nbsp;NOT WORTH IT!
LOL!
-Jeff

[adey]

If there are still any non-believers in ATF, that's what rotary owners do when/if they flood their engines...
take out spark plugs,
'inject' atf,
crank until it turns over (or something like that),
run engine for a while as smoke billows from exhaust,
watch as firemen run over thinking you lit a forest fire.

<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

[SSJ2Gohan]

Ok Jeff didnt realize that was the case! &nbsp;All I can say is screw that! &nbsp;Im not a machinist, but I do take certain medications.....

I think that any that didnt come out with draining will get burned up.

But anyways, the point of my reply was to give praise on this procedure posted. &nbsp;Id vote to place it in the archives.

[91CRXsiR]

whats engine gook?

and how do you do this? you put 1 quart of this stuff in your already full engine? or you drain about 1 quart out then fill,

then drain then add the rest of the mixture?

i thought its bad to switch non-syn oil running engines to syntheic?

[SSJ2Gohan]

Nah the correct spelling is Gunk not Gook. &nbsp;But you add 1 quart first and then drain it entirely and then refill using the next step.

I switched from non-syn to synthetic oil and my car seems to be very happy I did.