No spark from SR swap. I searched

[duffman1278]

Well I swapped my SR and I'm getting fuel for sure because I can smell it, but for some reason I dont get spark. I grounded each coilpack with the spark plug to the block and had my friend crank it. Nothing. I tried another ignitor and still nothing. Checked resistance on the ignitor according to the FSM and its ok. I checked for voltage for the plug going to the ignitor from the ECU and it seemed fine. Also checked to make sure their was continuity from the ignitor 4 plug to to the ECU and there is. I replaced the CAS and checked the wiring. I also tested the CAS according to the FSM. It checks out. My coilpack harness is grounded. I unwraped my harness so see if any wires were cut but nothing that shudn't be. Any other suggestions? Coilpacks are good too, according to FSM prodcedure. Also forgot to mention, ECU doesn't look like it has any burn marks on it. Has a daughtboard though, I think is what its called, "TEPS" is what it says on the outside of the ECU

[EAT Motorsports]

Did you try pulling codes?

[duffman1278]

That I have not, I gotta search that to see how to do that than.

[PoorMans180SX]

Voltage to the coilpacks should pulse on and off. Check it with a test light across the voltage and ground terminals (if it has them, IDK) or backprobe the wires (sewing pins will do) and test it from those. It should flash.

The ECU doesn't have to look burnt to be bad. Nothing in there can handle anything near 35 volts at any amperage.

[smelly240]

have you looked to see if theres a voltage pulse from the ecu to the igniter?

[Z U L8R]

on the main wires that get spliced when donig an sr swap. on the big grey plug there should be a thick black with a red stripe that gets 12volt ignition power, and there's also a thick blue with a red stripe. that thick blue/red wire is your coil pack power wire. make sure it's connected to that thick black/red wire.

check that and holler back, i'll tell you what to do from there.
Dave =]

[duffman1278]

Thanks alot, didn't have much time over the weekend to check but I'll try during the week and let you guys know. BTW, my ignitor is a Q45. I snapped some pics of the wires Z U L8R mentioned, so here they are.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/duffman1278/DSC01377.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/duffman1278/DSC01376.jpg

[smelly240]

i dont think the + on the coils is supposed to pulse - that should be steady 12v.

and the cas must be working if it gets fuel.

are you getting voltage to the igniter when u turn it over?

if so - how much?

[statik]

ugh, what are those radio shack crimp connectors?

[Z U L8R]

THAT IS WRONG. the thin red with the black stripe is the ecu relay ground wire. it's the ground that clicks over the ecu's relay to then give the ecu power. DO NOT GIVE THE THIN RED/BLACK stripe wire + or you risk popping your ecu

your blue with red stripe wire goes on the THICK BLACK /w red stripe wire. that's your problem right there. gj on the pic that really helped
Dave =]

[BoostinGST]

also check the ground on the back of the head for the coil packs... check the voltage on the plug going to the ecu from the ignitor also.

[Z U L8R]

that thin red/black stripe will have 12volts going to it only because it's getting fed though the other side of the ecu relay, but once you turn the key to on or start position the ecu provides the ground for the other side of that relay in order for it to click and give the igniton power. connect that thick blue/red to the ignition 12v thick black/red, not thin red/black. since you didn't cut your ka harness right at the grey plug it may not be thick black/red stripe but further down the harness closer to the grey plug by the stock battery location it is. where you have it at may be thin black/red. but that's cause it's branched off. closer to the battery box it's thick black/red i promise =]. but that's your problem right there man =]
Dave =]

[statik]

THAT IS WRONG. the thin red with the black stripe is the ecu relay ground wire. it's the ground that clicks over the ecu's relay to then give the ecu power. DO NOT GIVE THE THIN RED/BLACK stripe wire + or you risk popping your ecu

your blue with red stripe wire goes on the THICK BLACK /w red stripe wire. that's your problem right there. gj on the pic that really helped
Dave =]

good catch, that is definitely wired incorrectly

[Z U L8R]

good catch, that is definitely wired incorrectly

we finally agree on something :P

ps and your turbo's too small :rofl:

[duffman1278]

Thanks alot, I'll get that fixed asap and let you know what happens. I didn't do the wiring, I had someone else do it so I'll see. So to clarify, I'll go down near the area where the batter was and there should be a THICK black/red wire? I spice the red/blue wire into that? Also, what do I connect the red/black THIN wire to? Do I just have to splice that back to other red/black, thin wire that was cut?

[statik]

we finally agree on something :P

ps and your turbo's too small :rofl:

2871r .64 is the biggest im willing to go on a stock SR =p

[Z U L8R]

haha @ statik :P , every thread i'm like "the turbo's too small" and statik is like "what does the turbo have to do with it"

duffman1278

if you look at all the "how to's" you'll get a much better understanding of what's what and why's this like that. so study a little of that and then come back to this explanation i'm about to give you and you'll see the bigger picture of the WHY.

from the ka's old engine harness there's a big grey plug and a smaller reddish brown plug that you swap the sr's big grey and smaller reddish brown plug with. not because the sr's won't plug into your s13 chassis's but because the wire functions are in different pin locations, so you can't just plug it in or it won't work.

to make a long story short, yes you end up tapping the thick blue/red wire into the thick black/red wire. from your sr's engine harness it's thick black/red and it goes into the ka's thick black/red. this is 12volt ignition power. this not only feeds the ecu 12volt power, but it also will feed your coil packs 12volt ignition power because that is the blue/red wire's purpose.

as far as that little red/black stripe wire. (it ends up being on the small reddish brown plug if the plugs are still there in the first place, they may have been cut out and your engine harness wired straight in to your s13 chassis harness. in any case. if you were to trace that red/black stripe wire, it'd go to your little relay/fuse box that's right by the battery on the passenger side. it'd go to the ecu relay. then it'd work it's way through the harness and end up at that smalller reddish brown plug. then your engines small reddish brown plug would plug into it and it would run all the way back through the engine harness and into pin number 4 on your ecu. your ecu is going to energize this small red/black wire with a GROUND when you turn your key to the ignition on or start position. and by doing so the ecu will click over the ecu relay and your ecu as well as your coil packs will now have the needed 12volts going to them.

i do a lot of the swap wiring and wiring diagnostics for the shops around atlanta. wiring is my cup of tea. gl , i hope your coil packs didn't get shorted out and still will work. i'm pretty sure you should be fine. straighten this mix up out and let us know how it went. once again u definately helped us help you with that good picture =]
take care
Dave

[duffman1278]

You're the greatest man! Its up and running now, changed it really quick, cranked it a few times and BAM! it was starting up!. Thanks alot

[Z U L8R]

np, glad it worked out for ya =]
Dave