Greddy Type RS problems....

[s14unimog]

So I've been running a Greddy Type RS BOV for about 8 months now. When I first installed it I got a good amount of compressor surge, so I did the "single spring mod". After pulling the spring and reassembling the BOV it worked great for a little while and then all of the sudden the single spring wasn't enough to keep it shut under boost. Sooo, I took the BOV back apart and inspected the diaphram (my room mate ripped his on his evo) and it looked like it has a spot that has worn thin, but not thru.


Anyway the BOV was reassembled again with the other spring back in. The car worked great for awhile and then I noticed she was running really rich and idled around 1100 (previous idle speed was 750ish).

Now what....ok lets unplug the BOV and plug off that vaccum source. What do you know, a steady low idle and it stopped running so rich.

I know its not great for it but I did a couple of runs down the road with basically no BOV (unplugged) and it boosted fine until the valve on the BOV opened... WTF its only 10psi

I guess the question is, has anyone heard anything about the RS leaking OR faulty parts etc....


My roommate had to replace his Type RS's diaphram b/c it wouldn't even hold the boost. Same issue?

After searching all I could find is people asking if its good or not. No one has really addressed what the problem is in the BOV, that I could find.

[s14DK]

My roommate had to replace his Type RS's diaphram b/c it wouldn't even hold the boost. Same issue?



Sound's like it

[drifter_for_life06]

same issue...two of my friends...one with a sr/2871r had to get a type-r cuz his diaphram broke and another friend with a boosted integra had the same thing happen, now he has an ssqv

[s14unimog]

geez it sounds like Greddy didn't exactly hit a home run with this one.

Just an FYI, that diaphram is $80.......FUCK!

[Sonic Motor]

sounds like you got a fake one.

[s14unimog]

sounds like you got a fake one.

haha, wanna bet?

[supers0nic]

the diaphragms have issues with being faulty with these as they get trapped/stuck. this causes it to be either stuck open or stuck closed at times. be sure to have good lube in there if you notice something fishy

[s14unimog]

Its too late for this diaphram so I've already ordered a new one. But as for the replacement installation, you brought up a good idea. I'll use some sort of water based grease and that should ensure this not to repeat.

And you're right, mine got stuck and ripped. I'll post pics as soon as I install the new one.

[jspaeth]

I have also encountered this problem..

Of course, the first time it happened was my first time at the drag strip after my SR swap....BOV was stuck open, no boost period.

Yes, the diaphragm gets trapped. I put a little bit of grease around the lip to help it slide back into place.

I am running a stock T25 at 13-14 psi, and can fine tune the open/close pretty well by adjusting the tightness....I have full blow off if i floor it then let off (like a pufffffffffff sound).....at very light throttle and let off, get a TINY bit of surge...

Inevitably, you have to trade off a tiny bit of light throttle surge for it to stay closed right

I think when I go to GT2871R I might go for a type R, as these seem to be made for higher boost apps.

[s14unimog]

yeah I agree with you completely. I tried the single spring mod to get rid of compressor surge all together but I would get a boost leak at around 13 - 14psi. Enevitably I went back to the dual spring setup and decided to live with the compressor surge. I must have pinched the diaphram when I did the rebuild.

When I upgrade my turbo I will definitely go with Type R.


On a side note though, After my roommate replaced his type RS's diaphram on the Evo his has been holding fine and he runs 22psi. From what he said, the diaphram is constructed different. which leads me to believe maybe GReddy should have done a recall?

[jspaeth]

Yeah probably, I mean its funny that a small little piece of rubber can be the difference between putting down 400 hp and putting down 150 hp

If that piece gets caught, you are just flat out done.

I am lucky I haven't had it cause a problem yet....for me, it either got stuck, or didn't.....no in between

I either spooled up perfectly, or almost completely didn't spool at all

[AznDrftr.]

Yea, havin the problem with mine now with the ssqv, so i think i may take the spring back out and take a look at it.

[jspaeth]

I would definitely recommend taking it apart and putting a little lube (not KY jelly though) on the diaphragm....it can' hurt, especially since it's on the other side of where the air passes through....

You would think there would be a better way for them to seal it than a piece of rubber that can get stuck....

[bigOdom1]

i have heard a lot of problems but i adjusted it to no end and it has done its job since.

recall to replace with type R is ok with me

[hellion240sx]

yes please do a detailed write up if you can. i have the rs. 2 years now, but i haven't driven my car since feb, and sometimes i notice compressor surge. i would like to eliminate that surge. i tried loosening and tightening the adjuster on top of the bov. its been so long but i think i tightened it to get a louder sound. but had more compressor surge so i loosened it again. or vise versa. its been too long since i have driven my 240. so if i am wrong please correct me.

[jspaeth]

It would make sense that making tighter gives a louder, higher pitched blow off...

However, you then sacrifice that it won't open after lighter throttle let offs, leading to comp. surge

[KA-T_240]

I am running 20psi on my KA-T with the Type RS, When i fist was boosted I had some issues with the Diaphram staying open so i would just get it a bit of gas to get boost and let off and it would close. I have mine adjusted pretty tight cause Its not recirculated.

[s14unimog]

and yeah thats the other side of it. Mine was doing that right before it finally ripped. I'd come up to a stop light and the car would be idling at 1300. A quick little blip of the throttle and the BOV would close and the idle would drop back down.


But now I can't even make 5psi before it bleeds out. The diaphram should be here tonight so I'll post some pics of my old one and the new.

[s14unimog]

I went home for lunch from work today and USPS had a gift for me!!!!:bigok:

After the install I drove the car back to work and it holds boost GREAT!!!!

Here are some pics!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DamagedBOV002.jpg

You can see a little damage here
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DamagedBOV001.jpg

Here is the new one, side by side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DamagedBOV003.jpg

And a better shot of the torn one
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/DamagedBOV004.jpg

Strangly enough though, I could not find a hole that went all the way through the diaphram. Just the visiable wear spots.

[misfitsfreak81]

looks like they completely changed the diaphram design altogether. keep us updated as to how the new one works for you.

mike

[jspaeth]

Let me reiterate just how intermittently crappy this BOV is....

Now that it's cold out, it has decided to start being annoying and staying open too long on decel.

In warm weather it's fine, but now that it's cold out, if I come up to a red light and let the clutch out as I am finishing up braking, the RPMs sometime drop all the way down to like 300-400....ughhhh

I am hoping this won't happen if I switch to a type S and go with an MAP rather than MAF sensor

[s14unimog]

BOV works great and has been since I installed the new diaphram.

I'll let you guys know if the problem returns

[punxva]

mine stayed open unless i adjusted it all the way closed