Project S14a rebuild – a comprehensive and detailed guide

[Petrol]

I bought this car from a friend of mine 5 years ago and thought it would be a good idea to restore it. I have posted loads of info in the thread. If anyone has any suggestions, comment or questions, please feel free to fire away.

Thread is here

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826

I also made this vid of the car before I stripped it – right click save target as - 25MB

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14%20Vids/2005_edit.mpg

All comments and questions welcome :wavey:

[projectRDM]

I'm only halfway into the read, but you're doing an AMAZING job with it, keep it up. +1 for you.

[kevtrinh]

attention to detail... for sure!

[kouki_s14]

wow that's some serious work, nice job

[20 til 3]

wow your crazy... but in no way is that a bad thing

nothing like restoring a mid 90's car lol, i'm supprised at how many things didnt break when you took them off

[statik]

wow, seriously, thats impressive levels of detail

[Slidin240Wayz]

46 Pages to go.

Bittersweet.

[Bizzytony]

wow +1 for sure. I know your pain. I am helping my dad restore a 61 corvette. Fiberglass body but 40 year old rust. The diff took hours to clean, as did the solid axle. But its well worth it, that gel you are using looks amazing i will be ordering that soon! Thanks! you rock and im only 1/4 of the way thru!

[nissanguy13]

Damn I wish I had the patience you have. Looks good.

[ZX88]

do you make car commercials? cause that video was quality bro.

[tunerzimage]

The build looks amazing, such attention to detail. +1

[Petrol]

Thanks for the comments guys.

nothing like restoring a mid 90's car lol, i'm supprised at how many things didnt break when you took them off
To be honest I nearly sold both my S13 and S14a and bought something old skool… Glad I didn’t though since I am doing all of this on my driveway. I don’t have the facilities for a full on restoration project.
wow +1 for sure. I know your pain. I am helping my dad restore a 61 corvette. Fiberglass body but 40 year old rust. The diff took hours to clean, as did the solid axle. But its well worth it, that gel you are using looks amazing i will be ordering that soon! Thanks! you rock and im only 1/4 of the way thru!
I would love to restore something really old like a badass corvette, like I said though I don’t have the facilities. I did quite a big write up on rust removal / prevention. I will dig it out for you.

do you make car commercials? cause that video was quality bro.

Thanks, I work in television so I have the use of some decent video kit.

[Petrol]

I did quite a big write up on rust removal / prevention. I will dig it out for you.



:bigok:


First of all I have no experience with rust "killing" primers or paint on rust products. There are loads available – POR-15, Finnagans No.1 and Hammerite smooth are some that spring to mind. I also have very little experience with rust converters, these products are applied to rust and "stabilise" it ready for primer, Kurust is an example.
The reason I have not tended to use these products is that you are relying on the product to stop the rust, if it doesn’t do the job due to it being a poor product or poor preparation / application then it’s all been a waste of time. When metal rusts, it goes porous and forms layers. One of my biggest concerns with these types of products is getting the product to penetrate to the very bottom of any pitting. If the product is quite thick then it will just form a skin on top. Oxygen is required for corrosion to occur so if a paint film is applied over the top, it will continue to corrode as oxygen will still be present. Another preparation concern is oil or grease, if there’s any of this evident then the product will not do its job. I have always gone for mechanical or chemical removal for these reasons.

Shotblasting is the best way to remove rust, it’s quick but the only drawback is the blast media gets everywhere. Done right it will remove all rust and leave a very slightly pitted finish offering a good key for primer. Wire brushes also work well but what you must remember it can be difficult to get all the rust out of the pitting, softer brushes with thin bristles can be useful for this. Twisted knotted wire brushes used in angle grinders are to stiff. One drawback with wire brushes it that the brush gets contaminated with microscopic rust particles so you are spreading these particles over the area as you are working.
I have only tried 1 brand of chemical rust remover – Deox from Bilt Hamber. They have 2 products, Deox C which makes up a solution for parts to be dipped and Deox Gel. The Gel can be used to spot treat areas underneath the shell or areas impossible to get to with a wire brush. It does however take time. Once applied it needs covering with cling film to prevent it drying out and ideally needs leaving 48 hours. It’s then got to be scrubbed with Scotchbright before being washed off and dried as quickly as possible. I have had to re apply it up to 3 times in certain circumstances. It does work though.


What do I apply under the arches/floorpan?
The best rule of thumb is to replicate manufacturer’s methods – Stonechip under the arches and wax in box sections.
Bare shells are dipped in electrocoat at the factory, this is obviously not an option for DIY but the next best thing I have found to apply to bare metal is a zinc rich primer. Unlike conventional primers which are porous, a zinc primer will protect the steel from corrosion. This can be applied by brush or spray. For maximum protection 2 coats of 2K epoxy paint should be applied over the primer which again can be applied by brush or spray. Please be aware however that 2K products are hazardous and it’s essential to use a mask. As an alternative, a chassis black 1K product could be used. Stonechip should then be sprayed on top. I don’t recommend brushing it on but aerosols are available from your local bodyshop supplier.
I don’t recommend spraying wax products over the top of stonechip, it will soften the stonechip reducing its effectiveness. Dirt and salt will also stick to it.

My thoughts on Waxoyl
Inside the sills is factory coated with a rustproofing wax. It’s a very thin coat and has a smooth finish. Any water that enters the cavity will naturally run down and out of the drain holes.
The problem with applying Waxoyl is achieving this perfect finish inside the box section. What you typically end up with is a very rippled finish. I believe that this causes water to puddle in the Waxoyl. The problem being that this water evaporates and since there is very little or no ventilation inside the sills it has no where to go other than condense inside. I have also found that spraying Waxoyl on rust does not "kill" it, it just corrodes behind the Waxoyl.



Hope this info is useful

[Anto]

WOW

The work you put into this car is amazing.
Removing every single bit of rust & even PLATING the washer reservoir screws as well?!

+1 million to you.

[dued]

I would like to go through the entire thread and save it, if anyone gets to it before me, please post a link to DL it in here. :wiggle:

[daryl337]

Deox gel pls. Gimmeh! Haha.. but seriously.. whered you get it?
:3

[Bizzytony]

:bigok:


First of all I have no experience with rust "killing" primers or paint on rust products. There are loads available – POR-15, Finnagans No.1 and Hammerite smooth are some that spring to mind. I also have very little experience with rust converters, these products are applied to rust and "stabilise" it ready for primer, Kurust is an example.
The reason I have not tended to use these products is that you are relying on the product to stop the rust, if it doesn’t do the job due to it being a poor product or poor preparation / application then it’s all been a waste of time. When metal rusts, it goes porous and forms layers. One of my biggest concerns with these types of products is getting the product to penetrate to the very bottom of any pitting. If the product is quite thick then it will just form a skin on top. Oxygen is required for corrosion to occur so if a paint film is applied over the top, it will continue to corrode as oxygen will still be present. Another preparation concern is oil or grease, if there’s any of this evident then the product will not do its job. I have always gone for mechanical or chemical removal for these reasons.

Shotblasting is the best way to remove rust, it’s quick but the only drawback is the blast media gets everywhere. Done right it will remove all rust and leave a very slightly pitted finish offering a good key for primer. Wire brushes also work well but what you must remember it can be difficult to get all the rust out of the pitting, softer brushes with thin bristles can be useful for this. Twisted knotted wire brushes used in angle grinders are to stiff. One drawback with wire brushes it that the brush gets contaminated with microscopic rust particles so you are spreading these particles over the area as you are working.
I have only tried 1 brand of chemical rust remover – Deox from Bilt Hamber. They have 2 products, Deox C which makes up a solution for parts to be dipped and Deox Gel. The Gel can be used to spot treat areas underneath the shell or areas impossible to get to with a wire brush. It does however take time. Once applied it needs covering with cling film to prevent it drying out and ideally needs leaving 48 hours. It’s then got to be scrubbed with Scotchbright before being washed off and dried as quickly as possible. I have had to re apply it up to 3 times in certain circumstances. It does work though.


What do I apply under the arches/floorpan?
The best rule of thumb is to replicate manufacturer’s methods – Stonechip under the arches and wax in box sections.
Bare shells are dipped in electrocoat at the factory, this is obviously not an option for DIY but the next best thing I have found to apply to bare metal is a zinc rich primer. Unlike conventional primers which are porous, a zinc primer will protect the steel from corrosion. This can be applied by brush or spray. For maximum protection 2 coats of 2K epoxy paint should be applied over the primer which again can be applied by brush or spray. Please be aware however that 2K products are hazardous and it’s essential to use a mask. As an alternative, a chassis black 1K product could be used. Stonechip should then be sprayed on top. I don’t recommend brushing it on but aerosols are available from your local bodyshop supplier.
I don’t recommend spraying wax products over the top of stonechip, it will soften the stonechip reducing its effectiveness. Dirt and salt will also stick to it.

My thoughts on Waxoyl
Inside the sills is factory coated with a rustproofing wax. It’s a very thin coat and has a smooth finish. Any water that enters the cavity will naturally run down and out of the drain holes.
The problem with applying Waxoyl is achieving this perfect finish inside the box section. What you typically end up with is a very rippled finish. I believe that this causes water to puddle in the Waxoyl. The problem being that this water evaporates and since there is very little or no ventilation inside the sills it has no where to go other than condense inside. I have also found that spraying Waxoyl on rust does not "kill" it, it just corrodes behind the Waxoyl.



Hope this info is useful
Thank you so so so much. you are a god. As far as facilities go we are doing the restoration in our driveway as well. It is hard a lift would make it fly by! thanks for that info hawaii=humidity+salt= rust rust and more rust. Thank you. you rule!

[5t341tH]

that deox gel is krazy! i like how the hub looked after the gel.
BRAND NEW

[shinhed]

/\ I too found this most impressive+

Although I was looking forward to more upgrades, your thread is still top tier++

[Prok0]

Awesome thread, I read it last night when you posted the link in the pics thread..
Amazing attention to detail, I would like to know if you know of any other similiar rust removal gel's that would be more readily available in the US, because I tried to visit the Deox site and it wasnt functioning.. And Im not sure if it is available in the US...

Also, I want your factory diff cooler.. haha, that thing is baller. I was reading and apparently not alot of the UK guys like/want them for some reason... you should tell one of them to hook it up :)

[smellslikecurry]

so much hard work



i seriously pray that nothing bad ever happens to this car...

[5t341tH]

also that video u made is amazing quality. superb video skills

[CoasTek240]

so intense....
message length

[dued]

:yum:

I found an easy way to save the entire thread. First go to this link (http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/printthread.php?t=283826&pp=100) to view the thread in printable version (10 pages). Then save each page 1 by 1. I did it and it only took about 15 mins. I wouldn't mind e-mailing the results to you guys but the file size is 153mb in zipped format.

[RUTH'LESSDET]

wow i wish i could do that

[Petrol]

Deox gel pls. Gimmeh! Haha.. but seriously.. whered you get it?
:3
It’s manufactured in the UK.
http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html

I have contacted them and sent this link, should have some more info soon and I will post up.

Thank you so so so much. you are a god. As far as facilities go we are doing the restoration in our driveway as well. It is hard a lift would make it fly by! thanks for that info hawaii=humidity+salt= rust rust and more rust. Thank you. you rule!
No problem, I reckon it would take half the time with a ramp (lift) It’s now cold in the UK and nothing is drying.

that deox gel is krazy! i like how the hub looked after the gel.
BRAND NEW
Had to give it a wire brushing but it does the business though.

Thanks for the kind words. The thread is usually updated daily but if there are any significant updates, I will post it up.

[ROUGE180]

Wow.. that vid was pretty dope lol.. looks like something you would see on speed channel.

[MAGILLA]

wow I must say. That is the most well done rear end refurb I have ever seen.

[slim]

nice work man. someday i will have the money and time off to do that to the hatch.

[mrmephistopheles]

I think Naval Jelly (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=13&subid=47&plid=169) is the closest thing the US has to Deox Gel (http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/deoxgel.html).

[B Love]

I wish i had that much dedication.

[Petrol]

Before I started this rebuild I decided to test products before I used them. Having been disappointed with "Waxoyl" in the past I thought I would try an alternative box section wax


I used 2 mild steel plates that were very slightly rusty



http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/001_090507.jpg


The plate on the left was treated with Dynax. The plate on the right was treated with Waxoyl.


After spraying the samples with salt water for a month or two this was the result…



http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/Rust%20test/011_090607.jpg

Thought some of you guys would be interested in this :)

[mrmephistopheles]

So they were sprayed down without having the rust removed?

Pretty interesting stuff!

I guess that shows us what product you'll be using in the future...


Your project has led me to want to clean the heck out of everything I work on when I wrench on my car from now on.

I'm also looking at things differently now - how hard would this be to remove and rebuild - i wonder if I could plate this like Petrol does, etc.

[0wn3r]

jesus, that's amazing...speechless at the level of detail.

[Petrol]

I'm also looking at things differently now - how hard would this be to remove and rebuild - i wonder if I could plate this like Petrol does, etc.

Don't do it :nono: - It's a slippery slope!! :D

I have never been a fan of Waxoyl. Started using it some time ago but never been a fan really - here's why...


I have my doubts about waxoyling inside box sections. Inside the sills is factory coated with a rustproofing wax. It’s a very thin coat and has a smooth finish. Any water that enters the cavity will naturally run down and out of the drain holes. It must eventually lose its effectiveness though because the sills corrode from the inside.

The problem with applying Waxoyl is achieving this perfect finish inside the box section. What you typically end up with is a very rippled finish. I believe that this causes water to puddle in the Waxoyl. The problem being that the water evaporates and since there is very little or no ventilation inside the sills it has no where to go other than condense inside.......


That's why a found a much better product :bigok:

[Petrol]

Thanks for the comments :)

Have to say I am really happy with the rocker cover. One of the guys made me a carbon fibre plug cover :bowdown:

Pics are 4th and 5th down

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=48

[Petrol]

do you make car commercials? cause that video was quality bro.

Just found this 240SX commercial :D

http://www.retrojunk.com/details_commercial/1538/

Sorry if it's a repost.

[gotta240]

why do you have a diff cooler and i dont?! I'm jealous!

Fantastic build.

[Ninjabread]

This work is simply amazing, and you have way too much patience for your own good. :)

Keep up the good work!

[gotta240]

I'm not trying to be a dick, but do you have a job?

I'm really amazed at the work you are doing...but damn...so much time!!!

[Petrol]

I'm not trying to be a dick, but do you have a job?

I'm really amazed at the work you are doing...but damn...so much time!!!


I tend to work evenings and weekends which leaves me quite a bit of spare time during the day. Happen a good job as I have just cleaned the engine bay and am now thinking of removing the engine and box :eek:

[mrmephistopheles]

We demand updates! :D

[Ninjabread]

engine and box :eek:


Gearbox
Transmission

Ok? :)

[PoorMans180SX]

I still can't believe this. This car is going to be so clean after you get done. I don't think I could even drive it more than 5 miles without washing it after it's done.

[Goldeneye9mm]

so your car is probly the cleanist 200sx on the planet by now. you sir are amazing. but there is a namw for your condition. it's called O.C.D. can you do mine next? lol :bigok:

[Petrol]

We demand updates! :D

The thread is usually updated daily but I am still concerned about the paint color match if I have the bonnet (hood?) and front wings (fenders?) painted. Still not sure if I should replace the turbo gaskets as it’s only done about 83.5K Km

Gearbox
Transmission
Ok? :)

Apologies, a gearbox in Britain is always called a "box" but I think you know what I meant. We are that lazy we shorten everything.


I don’t know about it being the cleanest on the planet as I am sure there will be cleaner cars out there. I know I have OCD but can’t think of a better car to refurbish. It’s not like it’s been stuck in a garage all its life. The previous owner used it for touring Europe. It’s visited 11 Countries including:
1. Wales
2. France (Normandy, Brittany, Chamonix etc)
3. Belgium (Spa)
4. Luxembourg
5. Germany (Black Forest, Hockenheim, Ring)
6. Italy (Lake Garda)
7. Switzerland (Eiger etc)
8. Austria (Innsbruck etc)
9. Liechtenstein
10. Norway (ferry to Bergen then travel north to the Arctic Circle. Head due north for another 350 miles to North Cape - Nord Kapp; most northerly point in Europe)
11. Scotland

Some pics of the car before I stripped it


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14%20pics/1.jpg

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14%20pics/5.jpg


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14%20pics/Preston_docks.jpg

Just found this, a compilation of both my cars :bigok:

http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/2007%20cal%20pics/small/Petrols%20Calendar%202007.jpg

[Ninjabread]

I'm just pulling your leg bud!

[Petrol]

I'm just pulling your leg bud!

No problemo :)

[Petrol]

I think I have got everything sorted to lift the engine and gearbox out but have a couple of questions. I don’t want to chip any of the paint or damage anything in the engine bay. I assume the best idea is to wind a rope around the engine and lift it out of the engine mounts. This will cause the engine and gearbox to tilt enabling the crane to be pulled forwards slightly. Then it’s just a case raising and pulling the crane forwards until there’s enough clearance to remove it. I also intend to lift it without the car jacked up. Is there a possibility of the back of the gearbox hitting the floor with such little clearance?

Thanks

[Ninjabread]

So long as you cover your strut wells and your radiator support with carpet or some sort of tough fabric, you'll be fine.

When I lift motors out, I usualy tie my strap around the intake manifold /exhaust manifold. Yes the motor will tilt back and the idea is that that will give you the room for the engine to clear the rad support, and then you simply lift up the (trans)mission and pull it out of the way.

Having the car on the ground is fine, but I would suggest that you remove the hood to ease the egress of the motor :)

[Farzam]

Nice build
Kudos!

[EJ253]

shaving fuzzing carpet.

woulda never thought that would work
+1 for you

[IIIXziuR]

I love the UK!

[kouki_s14]

I think I have got everything sorted to lift the engine and gearbox out but have a couple of questions. I don’t want to chip any of the paint or damage anything in the engine bay. I assume the best idea is to wind a rope around the engine and lift it out of the engine mounts. This will cause the engine and gearbox to tilt enabling the crane to be pulled forwards slightly. Then it’s just a case raising and pulling the crane forwards until there’s enough clearance to remove it. I also intend to lift it without the car jacked up. Is there a possibility of the back of the gearbox hitting the floor with such little clearance?

Thanks

you can first chain the motor up then unbolt the entire crossmember, tranny, etc. Then lower the motor/trans onto a dolly under the car, after that is set in place, attach the crane to the chassis lift it up. After it gets high enough you can roll the dolly with engine/trans out cleanly. If you have access to a lift, it makes this 100x easier.

[Petrol]

Thanks for the feedback :bowdown:

EJ253 - Shaving the carpets did the trick :bigok:

IIIXziuR - I don't like the UK, It's cold and damp :eek:

kouki_s14 - That’s how I usually take the engine and transmission out of a scrabble wagon, it’s a good idea but I don’t have the facilities to raise the shell so high. When Nissan built these cars, the engine & transmission was lifted up to the shell :) It's the best way to do it but with the limited facilities I have, it looks like hood off and lifting the engine/ transmission will be easier :hs:


Once again thanks for your help guys :bowdown:

[articdragon192]

If you still need extra clearance and don't want the shifter hitting the gearbox tunnel, disconnect the shifter to give yourself that much more room.

[Petrol]

If you still need extra clearance and don't want the shifter hitting the gearbox tunnel, disconnect the shifter to give yourself that much more room.

Thanks for the tip :)

[HKSdrift3r]

that car was mint even before the tear down. Great job so far, something i would def not have taken on!

[Petrol]

Engine and gearbox is now out :)

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=55

[Petrol]

I know that turbo gaskets are problematic on the SR20DET. When I dismantled the manifold and turbo assembly some of the turbo elbow bolts / nuts had dropped out. The turbo to manifold nuts however were still in place. OK they were a bit loose but had the tab washers saved the day? Have a look at this - post 1117

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=56

Is this a good idea using tab washers and wiring bolts on the turbo elbow?

[DALAZ_68]

Petrol

any chance u can PM me a couple pics of the spoiler on ur s13...looks similar to a spoiler i found just need a good look at it...specially since both my car and ur car are the same color... :mepoke:

[kouki_s14]

that's going to be one spotless engine

[Petrol]

Does anyone have a definitive answer to this?

Post 1117

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=56


Some more here

Post 1135

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=57

Thank you in advance :)

[opponheimer]

Your car is looking great, usually on a turbo housing, studs > bolts. Hopefully those hex bolts you used have a large Ssy, It seems the oem bolts always shear with any kind of overtightening.. I guess the heat just makes them brittle. Your trans is looking beautiful.. I envy your dedication.

[IIIXziuR]

Petrol rocks!
Everything looks awesome man
Hope to see more pix soon
Cheers

[Petrol]

Hi guys :bigok: Engine and transmission is almost finished :fawkd:

Some info on spraying 2K paint in the thread.

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=65

More engine pics on page 67 :)

best regards

Pete

[kouki_s14]

w o w

[Petrol]

Any thoughts on my attempts to stop the turbo elbow coming loose?

Post 1438

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=72


I thought that wiring was a good technique :confused:

[babowc]

Crazyattention to detail..
for those bolts backing out.. I've seen people use 2 nuts to secure them..

[Petrol]

Crazyattention to detail..
for those bolts backing out.. I've seen people use 2 nuts to secure them..

Good tip that, +1

Things should move on pretty quickly now the weather has improved. Started prepping the engine bay

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=79

[PITCH]

Petrol, Anyway you could order that rust removal gel for us here in the states?

[atutt]

Or Canada for that matter, lol

[babowc]

lord..
your dedication ceases to amaze me! haha.

[Petrol]

Have you tried emailing bilt hamber about the deox? They might ship it.

This stuff also looks good http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=MR Going to try this on my 1987 Opel Manta ;)

[Petrol]

I have made a short video about wire brushing out rust. I get a lot of PM's asking about it.

Post 1603

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=81

[Petrol]

Engine bay has been sprayed. Just needs flatting back for the final coat. It's amazing how rust travels under the seam sealer on these cars :-/

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=82

Getting there :hsdance:

[Petrol]

More engine bay pics. Started to re assemble it

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=83

Some testing I did on box section wax. You might find this very interesting

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=84

[Petrol]

It's been a long time guys. Engine should be in pretty soon now.

Comprehensive S14a refurb - Page 93 - SXOC Bulletin Board (http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=93)

[Petrol]

Engine and gearbox now fitted :bigok:

Took 4 hours though :ugh:


http://media.sxoc.com/contributors/petrol/S13_Waxoyl_pics/S14a%20Rebuild/New0045.JPG

More pics here

Comprehensive S14a refurb - Page 94 - SXOC Bulletin Board (http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=94)

Should be pretty easy to finish it now :)

[Om1kron]

looks good man!

[rican_nick]

glad to see the motor going back in. I was waiting for an update on this! Good luck getting it done.

[Petrol]

Making Carbon fiber parts now, I really should concentrate on finishing the car first - Post 1977

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=99

[Petrol]

Bumperty bump. It's almost finished

Comprehensive S14a refurb - Page 108 - SXOC Bulletin Board (http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=108)

Post 2147 lots of pics :D

[Ninjabread]

Haha, are you even going to drive that car? It would be such a shame.

[Petrol]

Haha, are you even going to drive that car? It would be such a shame.

To be absolutely honest, I doubt it in the short term. The plan was to show it in a few years time

[shinhed]

When are you going to refurb the original wheels?

[Petrol]

When are you going to refurb the original wheels?
When the car is complete. It's on my list of things to do :wavey: