Nismo subframe bushings vs. others....

[CoasTek240]

ok. I'd like to get some input from other people. I have a 92 coupe. I recently dropped the subframe (previous one was cracked). So i plan of having my new subframe media blasted and painted. I also ordered a prothane bushing kit, bc i might as well replace a bunch of bushings while im down there. I want to install the nismo replacement urethane subframe bushings, with my kazama collars. However, my question is, wouldnt it be better to just install SPL alum. subframe bushing replacements?i fear they may be too harsh. I daily drive my car, and track it maybe 3-4 times a year. its cheaper to do the alum replacements, but i like the idea of Nismo bushings, and spacers...
help me decide.

[D1GP]

for dd id prob spend some more for the nismo bushing.

[koukimonster139]

mmm

define "too harsh"

[MrChow]

I use peak performance sub-frame spacers on my DD. I love them.

If you get new sub-frame bushing you don't need the spacers. All spacer do is take the play out of our old bushing that are beat up.
I'd say just Nismo bushing with no spacer would be the best.

[Bizzytony]

the alluminum spacers. why deal with the bushing. if it goes out later you will have to change it anyway. Trust me when the bushings really go bad its awful. I daily my car and you really dont even notice it. If you are dropped with any aftermarket suspension it dosent make much difference.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/240SX-S13-S14-300ZX-Z32-SUBFRAME-BUSHING-COLLARS-SPACER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQihZ020QQi temZ300156080259QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Tottaly worth it. does make the car a small bit noisier, but cant tell over exhaust. well jus my 2 cents
Also if you install spacers or similar collars like^ renders bushings totally useless! also the girls in your avatar are hot.

[Koopa Troopa]

Trust me when the bushings really go bad its awful.

Word, my bushings are toast... The subframe actually lifts and hits the bottom of the car when I do anything to cause the weight to shift.

[statik]

Doing the same thing right now, subframe/control arm bushings. I went with nismo bushings, obviously I cant tell you how they feel yet but if you don't track your car more than a few times a year like myself, id suggest the nismos over solids.

[CKAMC]

DD = Nismo
Track/not a pussy = SPL

add colars in maybe 3-4 years if you get nismo's... but the urethane compound in nismo's is so strong it might last longer than most other brands.... so maybe 7~8 years good?

[statik]

Word, my bushings are toast... The subframe actually lifts and hits the bottom of the car when I do anything to cause the weight to shift.

I installed some specialty Z subframe spacers a year ago or so, but eventually the subframe thud came back, my front subframe bushings were basically ripped in half, not much rubber left attached to the center sleeve.

[statik]

DD = Nismo
Track/not a pussy = SPL

add colars in maybe 3-4 years if you get nismo's... but the urethane compound in nismo's is so strong it might last longer than most other brands.... so maybe 7~8 years good?

nismo doesnt make anything urethane, just some really hard rubber.

[racepar1]

Don't be a wuss go with the spl. As stated previously the nismo ones aren't even urethane. Also any urethane or rubber bushings will eventually wear out and require replacement, the spl ones will not.

[CKAMC]

nismo doesnt make anything urethane, just some really hard rubber.

Taste like urethane tho... :keke:

[S13Koop]

I hate installing Nismo bushings, such a PITA
SPL's are 11ty x's easier to install.

[gotta240]

but they're metal...right?

metal=vibrations/noise/etc.

[racepar1]

but they're metal...right?

metal=vibrations/noise/etc.

Yes they're metal, yes they're noisy, yes they transmit a lot more vibration. Who cares? They will NEVER wear out, there will be NO SLOP in the subframe anymore, and you can buy spacers to adjust the anti-squat on the rear suspension. The nismo or urethane ones will wear out, will be more noisy, will transmit more vibration, will still have some play, and have no provisions for adjustment.

[babowc]

just more vibration.
add loctite to your subframe nuts.

check all your bolts and tq. down to whatever necessary/recommended by FSM.

[driftenthusiast]

The Nismo's are a real pain to install, well, mostly taking the old ones out is.

[Bizzytony]

Word, my bushings are toast... The subframe actually lifts and hits the bottom of the car when I do anything to cause the weight to shift.
yuuup. braking shifting acceling. anything bottoms it out. the collars tottaly fixed that for me. i bought the car like that lol, the guy was like uh idk. got me a good price!

[CoasTek240]

I hate installing Nismo bushings, such a PITA
SPL's are 11ty x's easier to install.

well im pretty sure that just made the decision for me. I'd buy the spl-parts solid replacements i guess... unless anyone has any other suggestions on where to buy cheaper. I dont mind supportin spl, but those really cant be made poorly and i think they should be a lil cheaper than $129.
all i know is its gonna be enough of a pain getting the old bushings out of the new subframe, so i'd rather make the install easy as possible.

***what about these...?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320123711318&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=011

[ayuaddict]

imagine how much of a bitch it would be if they were off by a tenth of a millimeter - in terms of installation.

id pay $60 more any day just to be sure they would fit right.

[bigOdom1]

i went with the spl bushings and haven't looked back

[JDS Performance]

Well I am in the works of desgining a product to make solid AL subframe bushing not make so much noise and take a bit of vibration out as well.
I will be making my own design Bushings as well - but will be making a product that you can use on your exsisting bushings.

I am doing all the testing on them right now - and I will go ahead and say - I think everyone is going to be happy!

You get the benifits of the solid AL bushings without the crappy ride!

I should have the products avaliable by Nov-Dec.

"MODS" this is not a for sale/commercial ad - I was just letting the members know not to steer clear of the solid bushing just yet beacuse of harshness!

LMK if this breaks any rules!

[AceInHole]

I have solid subframe bushings. I don't feel as though they're worth it. I'm not very convinced that "solidifying" your driveline mounts is really a good thing in the first place (subjecting it and other things to more driveline shock and feedback). Luckily I've got a spare subframe so I can screw around with filling it and running the spacers, or I might just get Energy Suspension solid polyurethane bushings.

Also, my car also has poly diff bushings. I can't imagine aluminum bushings would be very tolerable on an S13.

[JDS Performance]

I have solid subframe bushings. I don't feel as though they're worth it. I'm not very convinced that "solidifying" your driveline mounts is really a good thing in the first place (subjecting it and other things to more driveline shock and feedback). Luckily I've got a spare subframe so I can screw around with filling it and running the spacers, or I might just get Energy Suspension solid polyurethane bushings.

Also, my car also has poly diff bushings. I can't imagine aluminum bushings would be very tolerable on an S13.

But if my product works like I plan for it to - it will be good for 10 yrs +

and if it reacts like having polyurethane bushing - maybe just a bit stiffer - wouldnt you rather go with the solid AL with my product - cause if your car last another 10+ yrs all you will have to do is replace my product - never replace the bushing itself ever agin!

[2JZGTE]

Do the aluminum sub. spacers.

I removed entire subframe and put in the SPL alu. subframe mounts...they really aren't louder. Just noticed a little more vibration. They're definately worth it if you want more consistent handling.

It isn't the easiest job, but you've already got the subframe out...now have fun taking the old mounts out:) It's a b#$ch.

[CoasTek240]

Do the aluminum sub. spacers.

I removed entire subframe and put in the SPL alu. subframe mounts...they really aren't louder. Just noticed a little more vibration. They're definately worth it if you want more consistent handling.

It isn't the easiest job, but you've already got the subframe out...now have fun taking the old mounts out:) It's a b#.

yeah, i think thats what i decided on. But i appreciate your input. I am interested in those additions that JDS was explaining.

[JDS Performance]

yeah, i think thats what i decided on. But i appreciate your input. I am interested in those additions that JDS was explaining.

I will keep you guys posted - I dont have them avaliable just yet - as I wanna finish my full testing - I dont want to sell a product that doesnt work properly!

I will say maybe end of this month - but more than likey Nov.

[maxgohan]

the way i took mine out was i poured some bbq lighter fluid on the rubber and set it on fire and occasionally gave it a squirt of fire starter fluid to keep the fire burning, after they were burning for a while a big hammer just knocked em out and i kept the fire going to melt all the remaining rubber away...

[S14DB]

Don't get the alum if you drive on the Highway. The Diff hum is annoying.

[racepar1]

I have solid subframe bushings. I don't feel as though they're worth it. I'm not very convinced that "solidifying" your driveline mounts is really a good thing in the first place (subjecting it and other things to more driveline shock and feedback). Luckily I've got a spare subframe so I can screw around with filling it and running the spacers, or I might just get Energy Suspension solid polyurethane bushings.

Also, my car also has poly diff bushings. I can't imagine aluminum bushings would be very tolerable on an S13.

The rear subframe mounts the suspension not the driveline. Maintaining consistent suspension geometry is not a good idea? :duh:

[S14DB]

The rear subframe mounts the suspension not the driveline. Maintaining consistent suspension geometry is not a good idea? :duh:

:ugh: diff bolts to what?

[kandyflip445]

The rear subframe mounts the suspension not the driveline. Maintaining consistent suspension geometry is not a good idea? :duh:

Have you seen under your car???:loco:

[racepar1]

Have you seen under your car???:loco:

Look man I have done more suspension work on my own and my friends 240's than you could imagine so bite be. Yes the diff bolts to the subframe, but the subframe's primary purpose is to hold the suspension to the chasis. If the subframe moves then your shock angles get all screwed up and that is definitely not good. Another argument for the solid bushings is the 240's stock suspension geometry has A LOT of anti-squat in it which makes the car transition to on-throttle oversteer very easily, that's why 240's are so good for drifting. If you want to use the car for track/autocross it is a good idea to dial some of the anti-squat out of the car as that will give the car slightly more rear grip on corner exit. The SPL bushings allow you to do that. :fawk2:

[cwtt]

I will keep you guys posted - I dont have them avaliable just yet - as I wanna finish my full testing - I dont want to sell a product that doesnt work properly!

I will say maybe end of this month - but more than likey Nov.


Aweseome! Please keep us up to date. I really need to get new subrfame bushings, however my S14 is my DD/beater car so I have no need for metal on metal bushings with all of the added noise that comes with them.

I may just have to hold out for a month to see your results.

[DaPCWiz]

I have SPL aluminum collars in my daily driver and I drive 100 miles round trip to work and back everyday. I also autocross 8 or more times a year and plan to hit a few track events next year. They aren't harsh at all, def can't complain. You just get a little more noise from the rear at certain RPMs.

[AceInHole]

Yes the diff bolts to the subframe, but the subframe's primary purpose is to hold the suspension to the chasis.
While the function of the subframe is to hold the suspension and rear differential, majority of the subframe's purpose is to absorb vibration through both the driveline and suspension. On S13's, which have no diff bushings, the subframe is the only isolator between the rear mounted driveline and the chassis.

While maintaining consistent geometry is a good thing, the subframe does not (or at least should not, depending on the age of your bushings) move enough to give "messed up shock angles". It really shouldn't "give" at all with solid urethane bushings, but some of the vibration from the rear differential as well as the suspension should be absorbed if not using solid metal mounts.

The rear subframe mounts the suspension not the driveline.
The rear subframe does indeed mount the driveline. Your rear differential is bolted to the subframe, and it is a part of the driveline.


If you want to use the car for track/autocross it is a good idea to dial some of the anti-squat out of the car as that will give the car slightly more rear grip on corner exit. The SPL bushings allow you to do that.
You can also dial out anti-squat by adjusting the rear upper links. For the most part, my car's rear end has been nearly zero'ed out in terms of fore/aft suspension drift.


Anyways, my statement about driveline shock is more or less having the ability to absorb irregularities in both the road surface as well as from the driveline itself. I'm not sure there was ever an argument about the suspension aspect.

[AceInHole]

I have SPL aluminum collars in my daily driver and I drive 100 miles round trip to work and back everyday. I also autocross 8 or more times a year and plan to hit a few track events next year. They aren't harsh at all, def can't complain. You just get a little more noise from the rear at certain RPMs.

From subframe spacers to solid aluminum there was a definite increase in noise, although I don't believe it's affected ride quality other than some vibration, which I suppose is less noticeable with 3" exhaust piping. I'm taking my car out to MD for an Autocrossers Inc. event to do some end-of season tweaking as a head start for next season, so I'll have a bit more feedback (4 hr drive each way's worth) next week.

[racepar1]

[quote: AceInHole] You can also dial out anti-squat by adjusting the rear upper links. For the most part, my car's rear end has been nearly zero'ed out in terms of fore/aft suspension drift.[quote]

Wait, the RUCAs only adjust camber, the traction arms are for dialing in the camber curve, the toe arms are obviously for toe, and the LCAs locate the rest of the suspension. What arms can you adjust anti-squat with? As I understand anti-squat is determined by where the arms mount to the subframe, so the only way to adjust it is to alter the control arm mounting points on the subframe or change the angle of the subframe itself. I have read several suspension engineering books, several articles on suspension geometry, and talked to quite a few qualified people about 240 suspension in particular and I seriously doubt I missed that. I need clarification.

[CoasTek240]

From subframe spacers to solid aluminum there was a definite increase in noise, although I don't believe it's affected ride quality other than some vibration, which I suppose is less noticeable with 3" exhaust piping. I'm taking my car out to MD for an Autocrossers Inc. event to do some end-of season tweaking as a head start for next season, so I'll have a bit more feedback (4 hr drive each way's worth) next week.
Ive already ordered the SPL solids. I figured thatd be the best bet. Im still looking for a urethane bushing kit. I may buy one on ebay, but they come with so many things i dont want (i.e. front tc rod bushings) All i want are the sway bar bushings and the rear link bushings. any suggestions. btw, I am now just painting my subframe instead of powdercoating. I dont have much time. I need to get my car back on the road.
My daily sucks, i need another daily driver.

[racepar1]

Ive already ordered the SPL solids. I figured thatd be the best bet. Im still looking for a urethane bushing kit. I may buy one on ebay, but they come with so many things i dont want (i.e. front tc rod bushings) All i want are the sway bar bushings and the rear link bushings. any suggestions. btw, I am now just painting my subframe instead of powdercoating. I dont have much time. I need to get my car back on the road.
My daily sucks, i need another daily driver.

You can ordrer the bushings separately from energy suspension, but be prepared to wait for at least 3 to 6 weeks. If you are in a hurry you would be much better off ordering the whole kit and trying to sell off whatever you don't use.

[CoasTek240]

You can ordrer the bushings separately from energy suspension, but be prepared to wait for at least 3 to 6 weeks. If you are in a hurry you would be much better off ordering the whole kit and trying to sell off whatever you don't use.

well where do you suggest i get this kit?
-dave

[2JZGTE]

While we're on the topic of solid mounts...I'm currently using the Yanack aluminum steering rack mounts (solid). Goddamn are they nice.

[ManoNegra]

While we're on the topic of solid mounts...I'm currently using the Yanack aluminum steering rack mounts (solid). Goddamn are they nice.

Wonder how they work for a daily? Where did you get them if you don't mind me asking?

[2JZGTE]

Wonder how they work for a daily? Where did you get them if you don't mind me asking?

NP man, got them from RHDjapan.com ~ sponsor on this forum.
They are fine for daily but that's just one man's opinion.
My S13 has the alu. sub mounts, welded cage all that so I'm pretty tolerable.
You will notice a significant increase in tracking when hitting uneven street surfaces.
It's not that bad though...
and once you're at the track where they were designed for...
you'll really appreciate the consistency of the steering.

Billy

[Bushido]

man, the time is just ticking by....

and still nobody has replicated the yanack rack bushings...

i'd buy the real thing, but im kinda sticking to a knockoff theme with this car. HA

next up, SPL solid bushings, i've decided not to listen to the people that say they are too harsh for street use. they said the same thing about part shop max coilovers, and i love them on the street.

[B Love]

Anyone on here weld the Metal ones to the sub frame? Me and a friend welded some onto a S15 subframe and I havent seen the car since and i know its not running yet. So has anyone tried this on their daily driven car? Also the best way I found to get the bushings out was a torch

[Irukandji]

Get the SPL subframe bushings. Full aluminum.

[JDS Performance]

Here is mine for those of you that was intereted

www.NIPerformance.org

[Clearalbino]

I just recently installed the SPL aluminum bushings and they feel a little better then bushings with collars. The only problem with bushings with collars is that it compresses the bushings and further destroying rather then helping the situation.

[CoasTek240]

so i put my subframe back on last night with these bitches installed...
wtf? did my car sag or something? the subframe was off for 2 weeks. Its so hard to get back on. Im thinking of connecting everything as best as i can and then putting the wheels on and lowering it onto the subframe.
any suggestions?
btw, i still havent ordered any engery suspension kit.

[statik]

so i put my subframe back on last night with these bitches installed...
wtf? did my car sag or something? the subframe was off for 2 weeks. Its so hard to get back on. Im thinking of connecting everything as best as i can and then putting the wheels on and lowering it onto the subframe.
any suggestions?
btw, i still havent ordered any engery suspension kit.

I just did mine, I bolted everything to the subframe, all the control arms, uprights, axles, and the diff, torqued it all down, and used a jack to move it all as one unit from the diff, just get a friend to help balance and go slowly. When installing it the fronts will need assistance to move up with the rear, couple of taps with a rubber mallet helped persuade them into position along the way, just dont keep jacking it up because the rears will go in but the fronts will get hung up. I also installed the shocks with the subframe on the car, but not bolted all the way up yet, much easier to do it all at the same time.

[CoasTek240]

i just connected all the arms back to the subframe, as well as the diff.
Im thinking of lowering the car and using the weight of the car to push the subframe onto the body.

as of now the subframe sits 1/2" away from the body.
I feel like the body of the car sagged without a subframe on there for 2 weeks.

is this going to be safe?

[D1GP]

i just connected all the arms back to the subframe, as well as the diff.
Im thinking of lowering the car and using the weight of the car to push the subframe onto the body.

as of now the subframe sits 1/2" away from the body.
I feel like the body of the car sagged without a subframe on there for 2 weeks.

is this going to be safe?

i highly doubt the body sagged. ive had my subframe out for 2 weeks. it was a bitch to get it back up but i made it happen. i would suggest using 2 jacks, one on each side, and have a buddy help. work slow and line everything up as best as you can.

[JDS Performance]

i just connected all the arms back to the subframe, as well as the diff.
Im thinking of lowering the car and using the weight of the car to push the subframe onto the body.

as of now the subframe sits 1/2" away from the body.
I feel like the body of the car sagged without a subframe on there for 2 weeks.

is this going to be safe?


On our s14 the rear of the car dropped about 1/4" - using the ebay knock off bushings (SPL's old design)
We are on stock suspension which shows the drop better

Is this the problem you are speaking of?

[nissandr1ft]

Mine was a bitch also getting back up. I ended up using my main jack under the diff., making sure it was level, and going corner to corner with my factory jack (~1/4" each time). With that technique it went up in about 30 minutes, I tried a few other techniques, and it was by far the easiest.

[JDS Performance]

Ok I just read your post agin - your subframe is stuck half way on the car.

I had the same problem - you have to make sure the subframe goes on the car as straight as possable and as level as possable.

the holes are pretty exact - not sure why you removed all the arms and diff for - unless you were changing them out anyways?

I would use a hammer to help it on there too - dont beat anything to death though - It should only be binded on there - not stuck and unmovable.

Take a pry bar and bump the subframe with the frame and the subframe should drop off the binded area - then you can try to guide it on straight and level agin.

This is pretty much a 2 person job - as it a PITA to do it alone - unless you get lucky and hit it the first time.

Also if its binded on there and you try to drop the car down onto the wheels and let the weight of the car push the subframe the rest of the way - you will be prone to breaking a stud or getting it really stuck or bending something in the process!

All 4 bushings have to go onto the studs at the same time and be level as well

Never try to tighten the nuts to make it move up - you will strip or break the stud!!! and you dont want to have to replace them!

[AceInHole]

Sorry I missed this, hope I'm not answering this too late. Also, I'm breaking thing down a bit further than I probably should, in case anyone references off of this in the future. As a disclaimer, I'll be the first to admit I could be wrong.... for the most part I haven't gotten a chance to do much datalogging due to the accident my car was in, but it's the general theory behind how my car was set up:

Wait, the RUCAs only adjust camber, the traction arms are for dialing in the camber curve, the toe arms are obviously for toe, and the LCAs locate the rest of the suspension.

Really, both your RUCA and traction arm will define your camber curve, as they form what would be the upper "A" arm (with the theoretical pivot beyond the motion arc of each arm). What really defines the camber curve is your component motion of the upper ball joints relative to the lower ones. The jist of it can be seen by simplifying the rear suspension by isolating the lower arm and the upper "camber" arm. With suspension travel, you'll have 2 arcs. Each arc is defined by the suspension arm swinging angularly around its respective pivot, where it connects to the chassis/ subframe. The higher the angle, the more lateral travel will result. The difference in lateral travel is what defines the camber curve. Two ways of adjusting the camber curve are through the difference in relative angle (one arm being at a higher relative point of its arc), or through a difference in arm length. Shorter arms will have a higher angular velocity per travel, and thus acheive more lateral motion relative to longer arms. This is one easy way to acheive more camber gain.

What arms can you adjust anti-squat with? As I understand anti-squat is determined by where the arms mount to the subframe, so the only way to adjust it is to alter the control arm mounting points on the subframe or change the angle of the subframe itself.

Anti squat can be analyzed easily through statics. Basically, when you apply a force straight downward onto a wedge, the wedge surface will want to react with a force normal [perpendicular] to the angled surface. This normal force can be broken up into two forces, one working against your downward force, and one in a direction "away" from the angled surface, parallel to the side opposite the normal force. The same principle applies to the rear suspension.

The rear suspension generally will not travel directly up and down. Like the surface of the wedge, there will be some angle of wheel travel (simplifying things, of course). A variety of factors contribute to this, the first and most blatant being the lower control arm. If the arm is tilted rearward, then as the suspension travels upwards, the wheel will travel "backward". I the arm is tilted forward, the wheel will go forward. The opposite happens when the suspension travels downwards, or when you apply a force to the suspension. Basically, if the arm is tilted towards the rear (the front pivot is higher than the rear), when you apply a force to the wheel trying to make it go forward, there will also be a force trying to push the wheel down. This is the basic cause of anti-squat.

Now, remember how camber curves are affected by arm lengths and angles? This will also apply longitudinally (forwards/ backwards). When the suspension goes through a range of motion, the rear trailing arm will go through its motion circle. This motion having a different lateral component than the lower arm will create a "tilt' in the spindle, which translates into fore/aft (backwards/ forewards) motion of the axle/ wheel. By altering suspension geometry (primarily trailing arm length), you adjust how the spindle rotates to counter-act or add to anti-squat.

Now, it's been said by a lot of drifters that shortening the rear trailing arm gives the car more "bite". My theory applied to this is a scenario where anti-squat is actually being dialed out. On severely lowered cars, the upper arms are at fairly dramatic angles, pointing "up". With the same principle applied to camber curve (shorter arms equat to more component travel), having shorter trailing arms should then result in more rotation of the spindle. As suspension travels down, the trailing arms go "out" from the center of rotation (think: if you hold your arm straight up in the air, and swing it down, i begins to go "out"). This pushes the top of the spindle rearwards, along with the axle. This counteracts some of the antisquat, moving opposite of longitudinal travel of the lower control arm.

I have read several suspension engineering books, several articles on suspension geometry, and talked to quite a few qualified people about 240 suspension in particular and I seriously doubt I missed that. I need clarification.
Who did you talk to about 240's? I'm betting Tim or Rich (Wiisass or veilside180sx) would agree with my assessment of the rear suspension, not sure who else is out there. Most of it, when applied to all the arms, should be compliant with anything you've read. Suspension is a simple thing that can get complicated by a lot of little things quickly, once you start to analyze it. We all have a tendancy of forgetting a few variables once in a while :P

If I missed anything, or if anyone disagrees with anything I've mentioned, please let me know. I have quite a bit more to learn, myself.

[Dream240]

K, gotta revive this old thread.

I am installing nismo subframe bushings. Got the subframe out, knocked out the old bushings pretty easily with my air chisel.

My problem is the two FRONT bushings. The new nismo ones won't go all the way back in!! They get stuck about 1/2" - 3/4" away from going all the way down.

I'm wondering if maybe there's a difference between the two pairs, front and back. I checked the new nismo ones to the old ones before i pulled them and matched up the length as best i could.

Basically I put the two black ones in the back, and the two silver one in the front. Is this right? I hope so, other wise I'm fucked. They don't really tell you one way or the other.

I've been hammering at them like a crazy caveman, and no use. They don't even budge. They look like they're in evenly. So i don't know what the hell to do now. I've also tried the bolt, nut and washer compression trick....just detroyed all the components with no luck.

SOMEONE HELP ME!!

[aznpoopy]

i haven't installed these myself so i do not know if they are ordered.

but trying to use the threaded rod trick or straight hammering on something like this can make easy install jobs hard.

assuming the install is correct, you should try a serious balljoint press like this. i used it for the diff bushings in the subframe.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a104/kirinpoopy/subframe%20stuff/CIMG7506.jpg

[Dream240]

Alright, thanks for the quick reply.

I'll get one tomorrow and see if it works. I am actually tempted to buy a 6ton floor press for 90 bucks and watch that thing tackle those bushings. The only trick is getting them into the press..... :(

Anyone else want to chime in?

[kingkilburn]

The nismo bushings are different. They intentionally changed them to alter the angle of the subframe.

Check this thread out for more info.
comment on nismo subframe bushings design - Nissan Road Racing Forums (http://nissanroadracing.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1181&highlight=bushing)

[aznpoopy]

good link

Left (black) for the rear, right (gray) for the front


Basically I put the two black ones in the back, and the two silver one in the front. Is this right? I hope so, other wise I'm fucked. They don't really tell you one way or the other.

based on the nissan road racing link, looks like you have them in correct. by luck it seems.

did you get them in? you should be able to rent a balljoint press from an autoparts store for free.

[kingkilburn]

It would seem to me that every body's need to swap subframes out to s14 and s15 is negated by the updated bushings.

[Dream240]

Okay, I finally got the job done.

I ended up going to Harbor Freight (Best place ever, but I'm sure you all know that) And picking up a "14-pc. Front Wheel Bearing Set" for $80.00.

This kit is perfect for ANY bushing press fit install. Provided you have access to compressed air. What I did was use the press steel plates and other accessories provided to finish off the last 1/2" of room for the bushings to go. The only awkward thing was the main threading bolt had a head size of 28mm. Had to buy a socket for this since my set jumped from 27mm to 30mm, very common.

Got the car put back together within an hour. And test drove it...... WOW!!! The rear end feedback is amazing when compared to old stock bushings. I also replaced the old stock diff bushings with a complete ES poly-bushing set. This upgrade, when combined with aluminum driveshaft makes the gear shifts and clutch drops so seemless. I love my car all over again!!!

As for the blacks in rear and silvers in front, I actually did them this way by measuring up the inner sleeve to the stock ones. And yes they in are in the same position when compared to the stock ones. So IMO Nissan didn't alter the bushing design (as per the previously posted link), it just seems that way since most guys never look at a stock OEM bushing unless it's fallen apart or burned out. Fortunately mine were still relatively intact, just really loose rubber. that was the best part about this install, thanks to the old bushing rubber being worn, my air chisel made short work of them.

Thanks to all who inputed. I will post up some pics of the kit I bought for anyone looking to add a useful tool set to their collection.

[g-via]

this is a damn good thread to revive

[Marc240]

Someone I know wanted to know about bushing replacement, thought I'd bump it for anyone thinking or in the process of replacing the rear subrame bushings

[Coupes_FTW]

marc! thanks man! this is an awesome thread, i think i know what route im taking now

[Marc240]

Shut up, educate yourself.