View Full Version : Coolant lines leading to Firewall..
HellonFire
08-22-2007, 03:45 PM
I have a fully built motor, and the car is going to be only for track. So I was going to weld up the holes that lead to and from the heater core. But then I thought that it was possibly a major loop for the coolant to get to the head.
I was thinking that Coolant also makes it way to the head through the water pump, so it can't be its only source. And also, on S14's they have the valve that opens and closes when you turn the heat on and off, so it must not be a cruicial coolant loop?
So my question is.. Cant I weld up the two holes, or should I just loop them to eachother? I really don't want to risk it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
EDIT:
Ok here is a pic of what I'm looking. I want to block the one off into the head, and also the hole that comes out of the block that points towards the back.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/MyCockerIs4U2NV/New253.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/MyCockerIs4U2NV/New251.jpg
And a picture of the setup, with my girlfriend in the background. LoL..
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/MyCockerIs4U2NV/New249.jpg
Tyler
Grenade180sx
08-22-2007, 04:03 PM
i just bypassed the heater core when mine cracked and looped it back into each other. its safer to just loop it back in rather then weld and possibly drop unwanted materials into your motor
HellonFire
08-22-2007, 04:06 PM
Well, my problem with that is I took out the part that allows you to connect a hose to it when I was building the motor in anticipation of welding it. Then after some thinking I was concerned that it may be an important loop.
And I have plugs to put in each spot, that fit snug and then I am just going to weld around them from the outside, there is a very, very slim chance of anything getting inside.
Plus I also don't want to have the metal lines and rubber hoses running under the intake mani. Its just another chance of a leak, and I want to reduce the chances of anything going wrong.
Tyler
fliprayzin240sx
08-22-2007, 09:08 PM
What engine is this on? KA or SR?
sccrstar011
08-22-2007, 09:33 PM
When I bought my car it was set up like that. The heater core was cracked so they just detached the hoses from the firewall and made a loop. Car ran fine and never over-heated.
mehsilvia
08-22-2007, 11:12 PM
Just cap them off. No need for all the trouble of looping them together, would serve no function.
And im not sure id go through all the trouble of welding metal caps on, just got to NAPA or any real autoparts store and pick up a set of block caps. Not sure the exact name for them, but they are made of the same rubber material the hoses are.
projectRDM
08-22-2007, 11:26 PM
They need to be looped, but you can easily run a bypass hose and delete all the extra ports on the plenum.
HellonFire
08-23-2007, 04:52 AM
Oh, sorry, I didn't mention the motor. Its an SR.
But I'm getting conflicting answers. So I can, or cannot completely block off the lines? Has anyone actually done it?
I know that I can loop them around. We do that on all our cars. This one, I want to completely block them off..
Tyler
mehsilvia
08-23-2007, 08:40 AM
Mine are simply blocked with caps.
And that was based on a recommendation from my nephew, a mechanic. So . . .
HellonFire
08-24-2007, 08:08 PM
Thanks for your help. Are these block caps rubber or..? I searched, but can't find anyhing about them.
Does anyone else have any input on this?
Tyler
mehsilvia
08-24-2007, 09:05 PM
Dont recall the diameter, but usualy 3/4 or 1/2. Measure your hose or take it into an autoparts store. Let them know you need the following:
Heater Hose By-pass Cap. They are neuprene material. And you can reuse the stock clamps from your hoses.
http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/395216.jpg
http://www.napaautoparts.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=6601693&Description=Heater+Hose+By-Pass+Cap
HellonFire
08-24-2007, 10:36 PM
Ahh... I figured that is what you were talking about.
Ok.. I have no heater hoses on the block what so ever. I don't even have the metal plug in the block for the heater hose. But I'm assuming that since you blocked off yours then it should be fine for me to weld the holes. How long has yours been that way, and have you had any over heating problems?
I will upload pictures of the block asap.
Tyler
HellonFire
08-28-2007, 03:33 AM
Ok, updated the first post with a couple pics of what I'm trying to do here. Any one else have anything to add before I block them off?
Tyler
S14DB
08-28-2007, 05:14 AM
You have 3 lines coming out of the block and the intake manifold. One of the lines from the block is a loop into the line in the intake manifold.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Cooling/SRheaterhose/SRHeaterLines1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Cooling/SRheaterhose/SRHeaterLines2.jpg
You need to have coolant flowing thru the intake manifold cause that's where the coolant temperature sensors are.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Cooling/SRheaterhose/SRHeaterLines3.jpg
The easiest way is to screw in a plug to the block port on the right cause the pipe is threaded into the block. Then loop the center port to the intake manifold port.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Cooling/SRheaterhose/SRHeaterLines4.jpg
This will allow coolant to flow from the block to the head and allow coolant to also flow by the sensors like stock.
Note: The hose going from the sensors around to the right hose is the TB heat / Idle bump. Which I have bypassed for that loop.
cdlong
08-28-2007, 06:04 AM
if you're still unsure, there's a diagram in the FSM. i only have a KA diagram but judging by that you can bypass it, it's a stand alone loop.
da8o8santaclauz
09-02-2007, 03:32 PM
so what did you end up doing??
aNskY
09-02-2007, 04:02 PM
so if my temp sensor is tapped into water neck i can just block the rest off? because my coolant lines are looped as well. good to know..
koukimonster139
09-02-2007, 04:47 PM
your girlfriends face is a turbo
reppppppp style points go
infinitexsound
09-02-2007, 04:53 PM
make a plate... for the one of the head then silicone it.... then get a rubber cap for the one that pointed backwards...
i was wondering the same thing on the block im building.... nice choice of baller engine paint.. do u mind if i take and use ur idea...?
da8o8santaclauz
09-03-2007, 02:39 PM
so is that a seperate loop that you can block off??
thejapino
09-03-2007, 03:00 PM
If you do plan on just plugging it up at the block, have you thought of using freeze plugs? They come in plenty of sizes in very tight tolerances. That way it isn't a permanent seal. No welding needed and its reversible...
HellonFire
09-05-2007, 03:50 AM
Sorry guys, I havn't been on here lately.
so what did you end up doing??
I haven't done anything yet. But I did drop the motor in the car, and the damn manifold doesn't fit with the Newgan Wastegate.. LoL. So.. It has to be extended a little bit.
so if my temp sensor is tapped into water neck i can just block the rest off? because my coolant lines are looped as well. good to know..
make a plate... for the one of the head then silicone it.... then get a rubber cap for the one that pointed backwards...
i was wondering the same thing on the block im building.... nice choice of baller engine paint.. do u mind if i take and use ur idea...?
See, I'm getting conflicting answers. I'm not sure if I can block off the passage going directly into the head. If I can it would be simple.
And if you like it man, rock it. I don't care. :)
If you do plan on just plugging it up at the block, have you thought of using freeze plugs? They come in plenty of sizes in very tight tolerances. That way it isn't a permanent seal. No welding needed and its reversible...
Yeah, thats a good idea. I'll use that. Thanks!
Tyler
da8o8santaclauz
09-11-2007, 09:11 PM
lol also curious to see the answer to this question
in the same situation
daryl337
09-12-2007, 09:14 AM
your girlfriends face is a turbo
reppppppp style points go
Wahaha, what a nice combination... a turbo with a meat hole. :D
IIIXziuR
09-12-2007, 09:59 AM
awesome, I have been questioning doing this as well. Thanks for the answers dudes.
Slidin240Wayz
09-12-2007, 02:20 PM
Loop-it......
steve shadows
09-12-2007, 02:31 PM
the pictures he posted werent even relevent this post doest even make any sense.
I hope to god you did not put this engine together.
if so im concerned for your saftey when you go to start to fire it up.
and what the fuck is with the gold motif?
The picture you posted is of the back fo the water jacket/thermostat housing and of the Oil Pump Sender.
Unless your removing the IACV completely you need a coolant source, you also need a coolant source for the Turbo.
what the fuck...???
Just loop it under the IM.
Down Syndrome
HellonFire
09-12-2007, 03:23 PM
I hope to god you aren't serious. Yes, I assembled the entire motor. I know what I'm doing. You are making yourself sound like an idiot.
The IACV is completely blocked off. The turbo is a Turbonetics 62-1 BB. NO coolant to the turbo.
Just becuase the oil filter housing is in the picture, does not mean that it was part of the question. The motor mount is also in the picture, obviously I am not asking a question about it, becuase I didn't mention it.
You are not helpful, and always a dick. If you have no useful information don't post. I have no idea who you are, and don't look up to you. Maybe others do, but your not the shit. Idiot.
Tyler
burnsauto
09-12-2007, 04:00 PM
your girlfriends face is a turbo
reppppppp style points go
lol, my thoughts exactly. ....if we could only find a way to make a girl run on boost....:jerkit:
Slow Poke
09-13-2007, 10:39 AM
There is allot of mis-information in this thread... There is NO NEED to loop the HEATER CORE lines. When your heater is turned off the lines are 100% blocked off anyway. /thread
steve shadows
09-13-2007, 10:45 AM
I hope to god you aren't serious. Yes, I assembled the entire motor. I know what I'm doing. You are making yourself sound like an idiot.
The IACV is completely blocked off. The turbo is a Turbonetics 62-1 BB. NO coolant to the turbo.
Just becuase the oil filter housing is in the picture, does not mean that it was part of the question. The motor mount is also in the picture, obviously I am not asking a question about it, becuase I didn't mention it.
You are not helpful, and always a dick. If you have no useful information don't post. I have no idea who you are, and don't look up to you. Maybe others do, but your not the shit. Idiot.
Tyler
your pictures have nothing to do with your question
There is allot of mis-information in this thread... There is NO NEED to loop the HEATER CORE lines. When your heater is turned off the lines are 100% blocked off anyway. /thread
Unles you remove the heater core.
HellonFire
09-13-2007, 07:26 PM
LoL.. Your about as smart as a sack of rocks.. You give me negative feedback as well? Got me there bud.
This picture shows exactly what I wanted to block off. Where coolant comes out of the block, and goes into the head. Very relevant to my question.
Tyler
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/MyCockerIs4U2NV/New251.jpg
vBulletin® v3.8.11, Copyright ©2000-2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.