Broken Speedo/HUD

I'm frustrated.

I went down to Orlando today and got me a 240SX coupe, SE model. It was quite exciting to drive it home, but somewhat scary at the same time because the Heads up display, nor the speedo care to work. (period) The lady that sold it to me said that it worked on and off, somewhat weather related. Is there any known fix for this? I can't afford $300 for a new or used speedo assembly. That's nearly half what I paid for the car.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated

Caleb

by the way, my new child is a red 92 240SX SE model, 5 speed, 184,000 miles, needs a timing chain (not a problem. I can do that) and a broken speedo&hud (I figure they both suffer from the same problem) This is going to be my evil street machine.

Update: I tried to do some soldering to the connections, but I have not completely fixed the problem. I did get the display to glow, so I pointed a heat gun at it and it started working... but not permenantly. I take it that I just need to resolder all the boards and connectors?

Caleb

[Impact]

Got the same problem..but mine just stopped working a few months ago..I had my car for about 2 years now...dunno whats wrong

check for continuity from your speedo to your cluster. for a kwik test run 2 wires directly into your cluster (you'll need a fsm) and see if that works if thats the case then there an open in your wires. i had the same problem. i can get you the colors of the wires from work  if need be. mine is a 89 so i dont know if the colors were the same.

I did some harsh digging last night, and I read from one guy that Nissan put faulty boards in for the speedo from a non-reputable company, and heat/cold makes the solder come loose. My mom and I are going to resolder mine completely (suck the old out, and put new solder in) and I'll tell you how it works out. I think my problem is in the speedo tho, but thanks for the advice on the wires. If the resoldering doesn't work, I might have to ask for the wire colors. Where do you work exactly?

Caleb

i work at woodfeild nissan and i had the same problem i would suggest checking the wires first cause that is more simpler and you have less of a chance of frying any boards then with soldering.

unless your good at it. then go ahead.

Still busted...

can anyone get me some schematics to this thing? My diagnostics and continuity testing have all led me to the speedo. I think it's the power supply board (there are 3 seperate boards to the unit) Is there ANY way I could possibly get ahold of the schematics for this unit? If I can I can rebuild the power supply board, or possibly fix the current one. I believe that it is a faulty transistor that is switching the power on before the capacitors are fully charged (the flourescent display is a capacitated start) and it does not have the current to get the display going... just my 2 cents.

I guess I'm in college to be an EE for a reason.

Caleb

[1990 240SX in Jersey]

My speedo, HUD, and dash lights are all out until the interior of the car warms up in the winter. They all come on right away in the summer. Did notice another peculiar thing though since this started happening. When the car is not moving, the speedo will read anywhere from 3-7mph. It fluctuates even higher if I rev the engine.

I also read elsewhere that it is bad solder joints. I would like to take voltage readings on the speedo but I can't get enough clearance to get the instrument cluster out because it won't clear the tilt steering wheel hardware even after removing the plastic covers around the steering wheel. Could somebody post what they did to take the cluster out or suggest where I might have gone wrong.

[Nismos14]

i dont understand pretty much everyones 240 i see with the hud has some problems with it.... its almost a plague cuz i kno how cool it is when it does work

I have found out that it is not the solder joints. I have resoldered all the joints in my display, and it still stays out. I believe that it is a faulty transistor. ####, I have already replaced all the caps AND the tiny relay. What is left?

Can SOMEBODY get me some schematics for this thing? If they can, I can probably brew up a fix for this problem.

Thanks
Caleb