Yet another S13 SR20DET swap thread

[unicoladron]

I'm somewhat new to zilvia but already found tons of useful information and now i'd like to give back to the zilvia community (most of this stuff has already been done hundreds of times) but here are the details of my swap.

CHASSIS: 1993 240SX base model coupe with A/T (power NOTHING!) 180,000 miles
FRONT CLIP: S13 Blacktop from Japanese Engines Inc in Patterson, NJ with ~60KM (or so i was told)
BONUS: clip came with Tein Basics and a short shifter
AT/MT: I have everything i need for the AT to MT swap (pedals, Master/Slave Cylinders, and lines).
REWIRED SR20 harness myself (thanks to heavythrottle.com and frsport.com)
I'm keepign both power steering and AC.
i will be using the SR20 Radiator/Fan/Shroud

PARTS:
Exedy Stage 2 3 puck clutch kit
Nismo thermostat
New OEM belts
HKS Yellow air filter
OEM rear main seal
Z32 Fuel filter
Walbro 255 lph (i plan on boosting the stock turbo)
Energy suspension urethane chassis bushing kit (pretty much replaces everythign that is rubber)
AMAZING deal on all 4 300ZX aluminum calipers (30MM Aluminum up front) i might sell the 2 piston rears because i don't want to spend tons of money on the 300ZX E-Brakes, plus i don't plan on drifting any time soon.
P.S. i'm rebuilding the calipers, already purchased rebuild kit for the fronts
MAYBE a turbo rebuild kit because they're relatively cheap, although i havn't checked the compressor yet for oil/coolant leaks, shaftplay, etc but i will once the engine is out.
I will be getting a FMIC because the smic just isn't worth it. perhaps greddy or godspeed (found on ebay, and they don't look half bad, does anyone have any experience with the godspeed cores and piping?

STATUS:
As of this weekend the KA motor is out, and most of the engine bay is cleaned up. the crossmember is nice and shiny after i hit it with some degreaser, and the same with the power steering rack. i don't think i'm painting the engine bay because it doesn't look too bad.

WHAT'S NEXT:
the SR engine will be coming out of the clip soon and i will be checking all the sensors and replacing a few gaskets here and there. I've alerady gotten the clip started up and it doesn't sound bad at all. This week I will be drilling the hole in the firewall for the clutch MC and bolt holes and bolting in the MC from the clp (not sure if i should get a new one?)

Pictures are below

Questions/Comments?

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1649.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1658.jpg
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http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1620.jpg
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http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1610.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1598-1.jpg
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http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1504.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/1993_240SX_FRONT4.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/KA24DE1.jpg

[unicoladron]

I almost forgot, here is a video of the SR sort of running. as i was rewiring the SR harness i noticed the brown wire on the O2 sensor was not connected. probably why it didn't run right.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=8mSTdiCaNbg

[opponheimer]

I wouldn't worry about it "not running right" until you get it in, looks like it runs fine man. Nice motor. Now you have to post finish pictures of the swap.

[opponheimer]

Oh yes, heres what I did for my custom AC line, I was sure to get a rubber/flexible one so that I could move it whenever I'm removing turbo / etc. I opted not to run it along the radiator support.

It looks kind of in the way now, but its actually tucked away now, with zipties holding it down. AC is freaking awesome.

It was 4.5 Feet of hose with a LP port spliced into it.


http://www.bizlocker.com/cars/s14/s14002.JPG

[Rkesh88]

where on the island are you? maybe i can help a brotha out

[unicoladron]

since there are excellent articles about swapping from AT to MT on the s13 chassis here on zilvia and out there on the internet, i have found the pictures to be mostly of the electrical stuff (hardest). i took a few pictures of the holes that have to be drilled for the MC and have a few recommendations when doing the AT to MT swap from personal experience.

this is the firewall with one hole alread drilled (drilled from inside)
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/BeforeMC.jpg

here is the blank provisions for the clutch pedal under the driver side dash
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0067.jpg

RECOMMENDATION: just remove the entire steering column, most of the tutorials i have read say "drop" the wheel. i recommend just completely removing the steering column, it makes life so much easier and really isn't that difficult. (notice the giant hole)
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0070.jpg

here is the blank clutch provision drilled out (used a 1.5" hole saw. the MC fit perfectly into the hole like it was meant to be (i do recommend using drill bits for the studs. make sure you use a bit with barely any play when in the provision, it makes a perfect guide.)
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0076.jpg

here is the firewall with all holes drilled.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/AfterMC0.jpg

here are a few pics with the clutch pedal bolted up in it's new home:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0083.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0085.jpg

here is the engine bay with the MC from my front clip installed (i opted not to get a new one because my clip came with all fluid in the MC and no air in the lines, don't ask me how). so the MC seemed in perfect condition as far as i was able to tell.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/AfterMC1.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/AfterMC2.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/AfterMC3.jpg

random shot of the JDM gas pedal (the return spirng is stiffer and for some reason the counter weight is way up top, and the USDM one is like lower..wierd (all the pedals from my front clip had razo pedal insert thingys.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0072.jpg

CAVEAT: i was psyched about using all JDM pedals but not possible. the JDM brake pedal when bolted up is right where the steering column should be :fawk2:. i will just have to use the USDM automatic brake pedal and cut it. maybe i can use the sweet razo pedal. sorry i don't have the picture but at this point i was swearing. i'm not sure why noone ever posted that, and i doubt i'm the only one that has tried this.

and now for the random shots:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0071.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0074.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0066.jpg

[unicoladron]

Here is the clutch install portion of my swap. when i removed the transmission, the bellhousing wasn't that dirty, the clutch disc was NISMO, had tons of life left, the pressure plate looked like almost new, and the flywheel face wasn't even that bad. (def not a woman driver nor a drifter.) but i will post pics of that later.

old TO bearing still inside the bellhousing:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/oldTObearing.jpg

NISMO clutch disc. now i spoke to one of my friends about this and he noted that the JDM silvias used NISMO discs as an oem part. i'm not positive if this is true, if someone knows, please share. i'm selling the entire set because i also purchased a new flywheel (pics later) so if someone is interested...lmk..
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0031.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/OldNismo.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/oldClutchDisc2.jpg
i couldn't find a coin....
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/oldClutchDisc1.jpg

oh yeah, and the only markings on the disc were "RS243 SG"

i also DID replace my rear main seal, and didn't have my camera that day. what a bitch that was. you have to drop the entire oil pan, don't even try prying it out, just do it the right way. the FSM was no help at all. it states to use a "suitable tool" to remove it. suitable tool...:cj:

old pressure plate:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/oldPressurePlate.jpg

old flywheel:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/oldFlywheel.jpg

new TO bearing pressed onto the carrier, and high temp grease applied (i did remove that excess that is shown in the picture, don't want to use too much of that shite.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/newTObearing.jpg

NOTE: i used red threadlocker when bolting down the flywheel and the pressure plate. not sure if this is necessary but makes me sleep better at night.

TODA 10.4 LB flywheel, to all you haters out there, the surface might appear to be greasy, but i hit it hard with brake parts cleaner.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/newFlywheel.jpg

Exedy 3 puck clutch installed using alignment tool and greased up the shaft of the tool lightly (perverted...)
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0045.jpg

NOTE: umm, i rented the pilot bushing puller from autozone and it didn't fit inside of the old pilot bushing. so i just left it in there. i didn't see anything wrong with it, so i just cleaned and put high temp grease in.

pressure plate/clutch cover installed:
be careful, one of the bolts snapped when i was torquing it down at 30lbs, but thanks to GSXjjordan's advice, i drilled a hole into the remaining bolt piece that was stuck in my nice new flywheel, and used an EZ-out or "extractor" to remove the bolt, worked like a charm. while at lowes, i purchased a couple extra replacement bolts in case i snapped anymore, they fit perfect.(M8x16 and 1.25 thread pitch or whatever) here is a pic of the removed stud with the bolt extractor:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0050.jpg

tranny bolted back up using FSM torquing and order.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0060.jpg

NOTE: umm make sure you put that metal gasket on BEFORE you put the flywheel back on. it's such a bitch to put on when the flywheel is on. PLUS, like a dick, i put it on backwards first. :wtc:

random pics:
here is the stupid oil pan i had to remove. i went ahead and shot it with some engine degreaser and wiped it down. i scraped all of the old crap off and sealed it with a nice bead of DIRKO RTV (german).
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0037.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0029.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0063.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0062.jpg

the only reason i removed the elbow and DP is because since i put the tranny metal gasket/spacer on backwards, the only way i could actually get it off was by removing the elbow because it was in the way. the shaft spins freely but there is some shaft play going on. never felt a new turbine shaft for play so i don't know exaclty how much there was.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0061.jpg

other notes:

- an Agency Power clutch line was used for the AT/MT conversion
- red thread locker dries pretty fast
- the new flywheel was MUCH lighter than the stock one
- installing the pedals and worming under the dash is really frustrating but breaking off the old sound deadening material is fun
- remove the driver side seat when doing the AT/MT swap. this in addition to removing the entire steering column makes the conversion process more tolerable.
- drinking beer helped me fenagle the rear main seal out of it's carrier.

[unicoladron]

more progress:

i replaced ALL of the bushings up front with urethane ones from Energy Suspension. pressing out the front tension rod factory bushing is a bitch. luckily i had the right tool from autozone. autozone calls it a ball joint remover/pusher, but one of the sleeves was the perfect size and i just hammered it out.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0106.jpg

also pressed out the FLCA old rubber bushing which was also SHOT. nice new urethane one went in.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0097.jpg

no pics but front sway bar bushings and end link bushings went in also, here's a few misc shots of the front suspension. i also didn't even realize but my clip came wiht cusco pillow ball front camber plates too..bonus.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0149.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0147.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0152.jpg

aaaaalmost inn!!!
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0115.jpg

man it took forever getting the engine to line up to the mounts cuz my driveway is slanted.

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0117.jpg

IN!

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0134.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0145.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0144.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0135.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0129.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0127.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0124.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0123.jpg
T25 :(
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0114.jpg

only using the stock smic for now cuz my funds are low now cuz i just bought a one piece steel driveshaft from DSS and full stainless turbo back from ebay, if anyone else has experienced a 3" ebay exhaust, lmk how it sounds, fits, etc.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0133.jpg
JDM ducting rocks!
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0130.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0129.jpg

[opponheimer]

Nice, you have a first gen blacktop as do I.

Oh yeah, and all that work and your not putting a fmic on?

[unicoladron]

Nice, you have a first gen blacktop as do I.

Oh yeah, and all that work and your not putting a fmic on?

haha, yeah my ECU says "62" on it so i think it's between 91-94 iirc.

nahh, i love FMICs, i'm jsut waiting for the right time, i saw frsport.com has greddy type m's for $420, so i'll prob go with that. i'm not boosting yet either, just want the thing to run. any suggestions for a budget fmic, i see these godspeed's on ebay but not sure.

[str4g63]

alright.. another silvia in long island hope to see you on the streets.. We are still pretty safe around here since people just can't let go of there hondas. In Safe I mean since long island is theft central..

[unicoladron]

alright.. another silvia in long island hope to see you on the streets.. We are still pretty safe around here since people just can't let go of there hondas. In Safe I mean since long island is theft central..

haha yeah bro, i'm DEF getting a quick release hub among other things, prob like a fuel cut off switch or something like that too.

[unicoladron]

a few days after i swapped it in i just couldn't wait to get the thing running. i get home from work at around 5:20 5:30 so i only have a few hours of daylight to work with. here is everything i double checked before even attempting to turn the key.

-verified lower engine harness was properly connected (alternator, starter, engine grounds, chassis grounds, etc)

-connected my z32 fuel filter (PROPERLY!) with new goodyear fuel line from autozone, i probably bought the wrong kind because it was a bitch to get on, but i just put some rubbing alcohol on the hard fuel lines and it slipped right on.

-installed new silicone vacuum lines. from the large top vacuum line i went straight to the stock diverter valve and bypassed that stupid little elbow nipple thingamajig, and just went right onto the top of it. blocked off the nipple on the throttle body on the bottom that originally went to the charcoal canister, went directly from the 3rd nipple on the throttle body directly to the FPR, and went from the nipple on the stock cold-pipe directly to the wastegate. no vacuum leaks here. actually i'm pretty sure, did i miss anything guys?. i also removed the stock brake-booster vacuum line from the engine to the brake-booster regulator because it was pointing in the wrong direction and used new thick ass silicone line.

-all new vac lines have been secured using wire ties (ghetto).

- secured ALL silicone/rubber couplers (i will buy new ones eventually because i'm using random extra shit i had to make everything fit, and tightened the hose clamps.

-secured all radiator hoses

-i've actually bypassed the heater core (the two water lines coming from the firewall cuz i'm a dick and thought i can make my own hose kit but ended up buying hoses that were too narrow (i belive they were 5/8"and i htink i need 3/4") so for now i'm fine cuz i'ts not cold out, but i'll buy the hose kit HT sells.

-I also used heavythrottle.com's sr engine swap guide to follow what to do in order to wire the AT/MT swap correctly (spliced some wires under the fusebox in the engine bay for the starter interlock, which is some ghey mechanism for automatics apparently)

-and that's all you have to do to get the thing to crank.

-started slowly adding prestone premixed 50/50 coolant to the radiator, i heard burping and glugging and what not, kept adding, in between burps, i added oil. i added 4 quarts, and i'm pretty sure it was 4.5 quarts that we need to add, please correct me if i'm wrong.

-also at this point i remembered i didn't replace the oil filter

-mind everyone that i did swap from automatic to manual and i reconnected that green box thing under the driver's side dash, and also the automatic tranmission controller which is located under the center console (silver module about the size of an oldschool walkman). not sure if i need them connected, but one day i will test, i just wanted to get the thing to run withut any headaches).

-after i made sure everything cleared the fan and moving parts, i went ahead and secured the battery into place and connected the positive and neg terminals.

-for some crazy reason, on the way to the driver's side door, i remembered i had the fuel pump harness unplugged, and THEN remembered i didn't have the fuel injector wiring secured all the way down, and wh ile i was doing that i secured all other connectors (not all of them were secure!).

- i then unplugged the CAS and went to the driver's seat, turned on the ignition, heard the walbro fireup, at this point i felt like a highschool girl who got fingered for the first time.

- gave it a bunch of cranks at varying short intervals. went ahead and removed the oil cap and checked to see if the cam lobes had oil on them, as they did. i also checked for oil/coolant leaks, and didn't see any, so i must've sealed those oil pans up the right way!

-after cranking with the CAS disconnected, i actually started adding more coolant to the rad because the water pump started circulating all of the water in the rad to the rest of the block.

- into the driver's seat and actually this time i turned the ignition to acc a few times to prime the fuel pump, i remember reading somehwere in a v-dub fsm wehn replacing the fuel filter to prime the fuel pump, so i figured this was a good measure since the whole pump and filter and lines were new.

- after priming, connected the CAS back up (cuz i forgot to connect it before)

- the SR started right up, so you can see it pays off checking and double checking like i did, i'm also like a fucking autistic child when it comes to remembering things.

- it started up, went over, heard all injectors clicking, valves sounded good, no knocking, was idling a little wierd, but i'm not worried at this point, and after checking out the videos guys, feel free to comment on why it's running the way it is, i know i'll be able to fix it, but hey, save me some legwork!

- sorry for being so long-winded but i'm hoping my documentation helps future swap artists.

below are two vid's. the first one is the night i did all of the above work, mind you everything is stock, the stock DV sounds pretty nice actually. sorry about the first vid, windows movie maker raped the shit out of it.

- also to all the haters out there, before you rip on me for revving it that way, it was running for about 5 mins previous to me taking the video.

VIDS:

night time startup and revving
http://youtube.com/watch?v=yM9REZ_Hqo4

haha and here is a video of the next day before i started working on the exhaust manifold (see next post). mind you that i had disconnected the battery the night before. so the engine wasn't flooded or anything. IMO, it's running like shite, but again, it was JUST swapped in so i'm not worried, prob need more oil and other tweaking. also, NO changes were made from the previous night

http://youtube.com/watch?v=funbohpEXAM

[unicoladron]

so i actually WANTED to wait until my exhaust manifold and elbow came BEFORE i installed the engine, but i got impatient, and wanted to get her started up. couple days later (today) my entire exhaust decided to show up. and i did actually take some detailed pictures of the entire exhaust system. i bought an ENTIRE exhaust off ebay and i was a little nervous for doing so

1. because i got it so cheap
2. because i wasn't sure if all hardware was included

but when it arrived i immediately opened everything, it was sooo well packaged i was extremely impressed, the tig welds are fantastic (of course not like HKS, but honestly, comparable). the stainless steel is not shitty, the mandrels are very nice, the manifold is constructed very well, the elbow looks great, and i tried to visually inspect all welds for any defects (i am not a welder, nor do i have any welding experience, but have a good eye for quality). i am extremely impressed and once i install it I'll let you guys know, because the price i got everything for is a steal. the branding is XS Power, and i've actually seen some of there stuff on ebay before and they seem to be reputable, AND all hardware and gaskets were included. i'm so god damm happy.

but here comes the shitty part, it sucks that i had to replace the manifold, (remove entire turbo assy) while the engine was in, this is next to impossible, and entirely impossible for someone with no patience. the worst part is the oil/coolant lines going to the turbo, but i believe on it's way back in, the new manifold provides more clearance so it shouldn't be too bad. all studs stayed secured to the block actually which was nice. here are some pics of the new manifold and elbow bolted up to the turbo.

fucking massive:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0180.jpg

resonator pipe and midsection, and tailpipe/muffler (came with silencer thank god).
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0181.jpg

and here are misc shots of what i think are very acceptable tig welds:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0190.jpg

also the flanges are nice and think too:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0189.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0188.jpg
tailpipe:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0187.jpg
these are by far the neatest welds on the entire exhaust:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0184.jpg

and the rest:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0182.jpg

and here is the old turbo assy:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0162.jpg
old mani:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0163.jpg
naked turbo:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0165.jpg
new mani, dp, elbow:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0160.jpg

what's missing?
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0172.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0171.jpg
new elbow bolted up
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0170.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0169.jpg

shots of the mani and elbow installed:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0168.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0167.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0178.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0177.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0176.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0174.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0173.jpg

[unicoladron]

umm Definitely should have planned better, bought the exhaust mani and elbow BEFORE putting the engine in, which i WAS planning to do but got impatient.

should have just purchased steel braided turbo lines.

should have purchased the heater hose kit inhead of time.

but NO regrets with this exhaust i purchased, can't wait to hear it.

[Tearlessj]

Could you link me the ebay ad for the exhaust? I kinda wanna check it out.

[unicoladron]

Could you link me the ebay ad for the exhaust? I kinda wanna check it out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=017&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=270151914697&rd=1

i think this guy is reselling the XS power stuff, and i think the primary manufacturer of this stuff on eBay is ssautochrome or something like that.

[G-Wagon]

Nice. Damn man you dont waste any time.

[unicoladron]

ok, so it was probably the hardest thing ever connecting the water line to the back of the engine. just took alot of moving around back and forth and adjusting with needle nose pliers. it honestly was the hardest part of this swap yet, no lies. but it's worth it, the manifold looks awesome, plus i'm sure it'll add some HP and sound excellent.

one problem, the turbo elbow does not fit the original o2 sensor that came with the sr engine. it was a skinny type so i'm guessing i need to pick up the fat type. for some reason i'm not really all that mad about this cuz i already got it running, plus i have alot of work to do on the rear suspension anyway.

pics:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0200.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0199.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0198.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0196.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0194.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0193.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0192.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0191.jpg

[driftin_180sx]

Quick note. Hope you did not pay more for getting a blacktop over a redtop. You have a redtop with a Blacktop valve cover. I just ran the number from your halfcut and it was made May of 1991. So you have a redtop not a blacktop

[unicoladron]

Quick note. Hope you did not pay more for getting a blacktop over a redtop. You have a redtop with a Blacktop valve cover. I just ran the number from your halfcut and it was made May of 1991. So you have a redtop not a blacktop

NOOOOO!! haha jk, hey man thanks for cehcking that for me. that now makes much more sense sinse i have the skinny o2 sensor. nah i paid what one would normally pay for a halfcut in such good cond. but NOW, since it's a 91 it prob has more mileage than i thought, but i really thought i was a member of the blacktop club :(

you ruined my weekend!. but blacktops are better in little places here and there right..i believe like the connecting rods are a little stronger and other little internal things.

[unicoladron]

I've made some decent progress. i have the entire 3" exhaust installed. the old system came out with no problems and it's not even rusted that bad. the fitment was EXCELLENT. the hangers were in the correct spot, but it actually doesn't line up where you bolt the downpipe to the tranny, but all i have to do is bend the hanger on the pipe, not a problem :) installed the hks direct drive using japanese instructions, and installed the agency power stainless braided clutch line, and took a video for myself to see if the slave cylinder was working because umm, how else can you do it when you're alone? i took a bunch of pics and have a few videos for your enjoyment.

comparing the old/new exhaust, this piping is massive:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1674.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1673.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1675.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1676.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1677.jpg

quick mock ups:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1678.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1679.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1680.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1681.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1682.jpg

and now it gets bolted up:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1683.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1684.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1685.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1686.jpg

engine bay shots with a couple front views and top views, i don't know why but i love how the top view looks:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1690.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1691.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1694.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1696.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1697.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1698.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1699.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1705.jpg

top views:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/top_view1.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/top_view2.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/top_view3.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/top_view4.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/top_view5.jpg

and an interesting note. this is a comparison of the JDM rotors and the USDM rotors. why the eff are the JDM rotors so much larger? NOT FAIR! if anyone has any specific details on this please feel free to share, i havn't gotten around to measuring them. the front clip came with single calipers but appear to be larger as well. i will probably be selling everything as i have 300zx front calipers.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1701.jpg

and now for some updated videos, it's running much nicer now, but it's still shaking and rocking in the engine bay for the following reasons:
1. old ass engine/tranny mounts
2. no driveshaft is bolted up yet
3. old driveshaft yoke is in there spinning and throwing shit off balance (even when the tranny is in neutral)
4. i've purchased a torque damper so i'm hoping it will make things less violent.

can anyone who has a torque damper vouch for it's benefits. again people who HAVE these installed on their cars, i'd like your opinions, thanks!

haha, here is the best way to know if you've bled your clutch line, with timbaland providing entertainment while you watch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xfeoDlybjI

nice deep idle tone from the new exhaust:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Duyzipv3kZs

again, idling in the engine bay:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3I7IjogK3A

and now the fun part:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEz3eOezODo

PS: all of these videos were taken with NO o2 sensor installed, but i had the bung plugged. i like plugging bungs haha. but seriously, umm i'm guessing the engine was running ok as it might have fallen back to secondary fuel/engine maps? is this old ass ECU capable of doing this cuz i come from v-dub land and i know they did that. does any one want shed some light on this subject?

next steps:

-I've already started dismantling the rear suspension, i've purchased subframe collars, and i have all new polyurethane bushings to press into all the toe arms, ruca, lca, bushings for the uprights as well. i'm looking for just a set of rear coilovers if anyone has a pair lmk.
-i've purchased strut tower bars as well (front and rear)
-new NGK iridiums coming, and fat o2 sensor.

i can search easily, but how much fluid should i be putting into the SR tranny, i actually don't want to unplug the side plug and figured one of you guys could tell me EXACTLY how much to put in, i also am just filling it from where the shifter goes, cuz umm, it wil be so much easier that way.

[Z33dori]

very nice..........wish i could go SR already......oh well
good luck.

[turtle m3th]

Very nice write up!

[unicoladron]

here is what has been done lately:

- replaced spark plugs with ngk iridiums heat range 7

- purchased turbonetics boost controller, which hasn't shipped yet

- performed compression test on all 4 cylinders, feels good knowing all four cylinders hold ~155 PSI which per the FSM is perfect.

- Subframe bushing collars/spacers have been installed. apparently they dramatically reduce wheel hop and tighten things up silvia's ass.

- Front/Rear strut bars installed, purchased from ebay, they are made by TC Sportline, the construction looks very nice and i got front and rear for the same price as a front "brandname" normally goes for. they feel nice and solid

- purchased engine torque dampner. umm, don't buy these from ebay, either get one from pdm-racing.com or a reputable seller because this is a knock off and apparently it is made to be "cosmetic" there is no oil and there is this plasting thing in there that makes it solid, what a piece, my own fault.

you get waht you pay for

- new tie rod ends for steering from autozone. DURALAST!

- cleaned up some wiring

- replaced all vacuum lines now

- cleaned interior/dash/vents.

- tried to clean up the engine bay as much as i could

here are some pics:

cheapo knockoff torque dampner..
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1716.jpg

subframe collars/spacers
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1717.jpg

subframe collars/spacers installed:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1724.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1727.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1728.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1729.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1730.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1731.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1737.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1739.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1740.jpg

strut bar installed:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1720.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1721.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1722.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1718.jpg

DEI Thermaltape installed by the mani and on fuel lines cuz i had some extra, and enginebay cleaned up a bit and now all vac lines have been replaced.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1742.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1743.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1753.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1751.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1754.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1746.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1745.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_1744.jpg



and now i'm just waiting on the driveshaft, and i'll most likely get some RAS, and if i find a good deal on a BOV i'll take it, and now i have to save for some wheels. i'm probably going with gunmetal sportmax 962's.

any suggestions?

[twofortyrida1388]

Looks great man can't wait to get mine rolling. So whats your future power goals for this thing?

[surge s14]

looks good so far

[unicoladron]

can't exactly do much until the driveshaft gets here. spoke with dss on the phone today and the yokes are still on backorder. i was gonna just buy a stock one from a local junkyard but i'd be getting rid of it eventually anyway.

does anyone wanna lend/trade me a non-abs manual driveshaft?

so i'm doing small things for now, just rebuilt the 30mm aluminum 4 pistons. pictars below!

used compressed air to squeeze them out, definitely crank down the psi to 30 or 40 psi. i had mine set on 90 for tools and one fucking shot out and made a crazy noise, good thing i had the original brake-pads in there cuz i've heard of people damaging the pistons.
old rubber seals and rings:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0219.jpg
new rubber seals and rings:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0221.jpg
nice and shiny pistons after cleaning:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0226.jpg

shiny!
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0231.jpg

random pictars:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0227.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0223.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0224.jpg

new inner o-ring, seals, and rings installed:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0235.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0233.jpg

and if i'm not working or working on the swap, this is pretty much it....this is how labor day was spent!
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0203.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/unicoladron/IMG_0204.jpg


i only rebuilt one tonight cuz i got lady, i'll do the other one tomorrow, however i DID receive the turbonetics boost controller, it's gonna look hawt in the engine bay, i already hooked it up real quick, but not sure where to mount it, probs somewheres on the shock tower real close to the turbo. i hear they have a bracket for the turbonetics MBC's but i didn't receive one and i already make a quick search on google but couldn't source one. does anyone have one of these brackets? or a good idea for mounting one that doesn't look shitty?

i'm still kinda broke but want to start working on my interior, i think i might be settling for some fake suede or something cheap and not 25 dollars a yard.

[unicoladron]

Looks great man can't wait to get mine rolling. So whats your future power goals for this thing?

down the road i'd like to get a GT28, bigger injectors, z32maf, and i'm not sure if i want a tune or an afc.

we shall see. thanks for looking.

[monkeyslide17]

how much u want to sell the p/s lines for? john from ga..

[RUTH'LESSDET]

nice swap it brings back memories of my old black top setup....have fun with it....Can you post a picture of the tool from autozone used to press the bushings in and out???

[wannabe-silvia]

danm nice write up man.....u work on your car much faster than i do.....bump from a former long islnader.....