Installing Viper 5900 / 791xv Alarm

[lagvoid21]

I will be installing a Viper 5900 in my 1995 240sx. I've read that the wiring is exactly the same as the 791xv model which has been out longer. I
appreciate any input you may have for either alarms. If you have any
experience or advice, please post!

When I get the alarm, I plan to double check connections with a digital
voltmeter before making them, but I just wanted to make the process easier with your help. I'm not sure which to trust, because I have two wiring diagrams and some wires are off. Please look over my conections.

the12volt 1995-1997 240sx wiring diagram
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...598&type=Alarm

directechs 1995 240sx wiring diagram
http://www.lagvoid.atotchat.org/240sx/direct.html

791xv / 5900 install guide
http://www.the12volt.com/uploads/files/791XV%20IM.pdf



primary harness (H1) wire connection guide

H1/1 ORANGE (-) ground-when-armed output
not used

H1/2 WHITE (+/-) selectable light flash output
-> red/blue @ ign harness

H1/3 WHITE/BLUE remote start (-) activation input
not used

H1/4 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200 mA domelight supervision output
not used

H1/5 GREEN (-) door trigger input, zone 3
-> red/white @ harness in drivers kick panel

H1/6 BLUE (-) multiplex input, zone 4
-> trunk light (-) wire (sets off alarm when trunk opened?)

H1/7 VIOLET (+) door trigger input, zone 3
not used

H1/8 BLACK (-) chassis ground connection
-> ground

H1/10 BROWN (+) siren output
-> siren

H1/11 RED (+)12V constant power input
-> white @ ign harness

H1/12 RED/WHITEchannel 2, 200mA (-) output
not used


secondary harness (H2) wire connection guide

H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) factory disarm output
not used (grounding out completely to disable factory alarm)

H2/2 GREEN/WHITE factory alarm rearm
not used

H2/3 VIOLET/BLACK 200 mA (-) programmable channel 4 output
not used

H2/4 WHITE/BLACK channel 5 output
not used

H2/5 GRAY/BLACK (-) diesel wait-to-start bulb input
not used


Relay key switch interface wire connection guide

PURPLE (+) starter output
-> black/yellow (starter side). I've read that my car (1995 240sx) has two starter wires. Directechs shows a second starter wire as black/white while the12volt only shows a single starter wire. Do I hook them both up to this wire? Please help.

I think directechs has the correct diagram because I found this thread.
edit: bad link
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=85149&

GREEN starter input
-> black/yellow (key side directly to ignition)

RED (2) (+)12V input for high current outputs
-> white @ ign

ORANGE (+) accessory output
-> white or white/blue? (the12volt shows white/blue while directechs shows just white)

PINK (+) ignition output
-> black/red or white/blue? (again the wire diagrams don't match)

PINK/WHITE (+) second ignition output
edit: not used

RED/WHITE (+) 12V input
not used


remote start secondary harness (H3) wire connection guide

H3/1 BLUE/WHITE (-) status output
not used

H3/2 GRAY (-) hood pinswitch input, zone 1
-> ...hood pinswitch

H3/3 BROWN (+) brake switch input, zone 1
-> red/green @ brake switch

H3/4 VIOLET/WHITE tachometer input
-> yellow/red @ ecm in passenger kick

H3/5 BLACK/WHITE neutral safety switch input
-> orange/yellow (where can I find this?)


Are these all the connections that I need to make?


The manual lists these harnesses as well but doesn't list

them in the wire connection guide section:

door lock harness, 3-pin connector

GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT
-> light green/white (power lock) @ anti-theft module

BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
-> brown (power unlock) @ anti-theft module

remote start primary harness, 7-pin connector
not sure about this..is this wired? the description shows a lot of "relay turn-on".


thanks!

[projectRDM]

To condense it I'll just answer the main questions you have.

You can tag the red/blue parking light wire in the driver's kick panel also, right beside the red/white for the door trigger. These are also both found at the SECU if you have OE keyless.

The trunk light wire is red and found only at the switch or the light in the back, unless your car is an SE and has the OE keyless, if so it's found at the SECU. You'll also have the OE hood switch here as well, it's yellow/black so you don't need to add a pin. Again, this is only for the SE models with OE keyless.

If you indeed have the OE keyless, you'll need to wire in the alarm arm/disarm inputs as well, or just ground the OE disarm wire completely to avoid triggering it. The colors are green/yellow and light green/red (forget which is which), also found at the SECU.

You have two starter wires, but only one feeds the solenoid and that's the one you'll use, but you can also interrupt something else like the fuel pump output, the main black/red ignition, or any other wire that will disable the car. Your choice.

You don't have a secondary ignition wire so it's not used.

The door lock outputs drive the OE locks to add keyless to the new alarm.

[eastcoastS14]

OMG someone on zilvia with an alarm????? well i guess there is a first time for everything:keke: hopefully more ppl follow this trend

[Bryants95240sx]

I have a hidden kill switch that kills my fuel pump, but im looking at getting an alarm just so the noise will warn them off, if they set it off.

Although if a thief wants something bad enough he we will prolly get it, regardless. We can only deter them, not stop them.

[lagvoid21]

My car has the factory alarm so I'll make the connections at the SECU as you suggested (That'll save me a lot of time instead of running it to the trunk!).

Do you know off hand which color starter wire feeds the solenoid (black/yellow or black/white)? I'm glad, I didn't want to add additional relays that aren't really necessary. I noticed that the link I posted above was not working. They are adding a relay to the starter wires, do you know what other purpose they are trying to accomplish by doing so? Heres the link again.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=85149&

You mentioned alternative interrupt connections to disable the car. (sorry for my ignorance) I assume you're talking about the:

GREEN start input
(from the install manual) For anti grind or starter kill attach this wire to the key side of the starter wire for anti grind and for the starter kill to be active.

So I could just connect this to the black/red ignition wire instead?

I really appreciate your help! thanks!

[projectRDM]

A lot of alarms do not come with an internal relay for the starter kill, so that must be what you're seeing. Since yours is built in you just have the two wires to connect.

The black/yellow at the key switch is the solenoid wire, you can do the black/red though or the fuel pump's black/yellow at the fuel pump relay also. What I would do, for added protection, is this:

Cut the starter wire like suggested and interrupt it. Then use the orange wire on the alarm, ground when armed, and add a relay to interrupt the fuel pump lead as well. That way you're disabling both starter and fuel, and if the thief goes under the dash and bypasses it or roll starts the car, you still have no fuel.

[lagvoid21]

A lot of alarms do not come with an internal relay for the starter kill, so that must be what you're seeing. Since yours is built in you just have the two wires to connect.

The black/yellow at the key switch is the solenoid wire, you can do the black/red though or the fuel pump's black/yellow at the fuel pump relay also. What I would do, for added protection, is this:

Cut the starter wire like suggested and interrupt it. Then use the orange wire on the alarm, ground when armed, and add a relay to interrupt the fuel pump lead as well. That way you're disabling both starter and fuel, and if the thief goes under the dash and bypasses it or roll starts the car, you still have no fuel.

Hmmm that sounds like a great idea since its easy to push start the car. Will any of these relay wiring diagrams work?

http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html
__

Another question:
I dug up an old old thread you posted on FA about bypassing the alarm for turbo timers. Do you mind elaborating/dumbing it down for me?

Russ:
"When installing the timer, you just need to isolate the ignition input going to the alarm, that way it can arm with the car still running. Using a diode, you would connect it inline to the timer and one side of the switch, the other side goes to the car wiring, and the alarm will tie in before the diode."

I've used a diode once before but had everything laid out for me so I couldn't mess up. After reading this, I can't seem to get a clear image of how things will be wired up.

I put a diode between the timer and ignition wire? The diode will be blocking current from going back to the car/alarm?
Is it something like this or am I totally off?
car ignition harness/wire >------X (alarm connects) X-----X (diode) X---<timer

If I lived closer to GA I would bring you a bottle of southern comfort and ask you to school me!

[heyitzalan]

i installed a viper 5900 on my 96 zenki couple months ago. if you need help, shoot me a message.

[lagvoid21]

i installed a viper 5900 on my 96 zenki couple months ago. if you need help, shoot me a message.

Thanks! If (more like when...) I run into any problems, I'll pm you!

[projectRDM]

Hmmm that sounds like a great idea since its easy to push start the car. Will any of these relay wiring diagrams work?

http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html
__

Another question:
I dug up an old old thread you posted on FA about bypassing the alarm for turbo timers. Do you mind elaborating/dumbing it down for me?

Russ:
"When installing the timer, you just need to isolate the ignition input going to the alarm, that way it can arm with the car still running. Using a diode, you would connect it inline to the timer and one side of the switch, the other side goes to the car wiring, and the alarm will tie in before the diode."

I've used a diode once before but had everything laid out for me so I couldn't mess up. After reading this, I can't seem to get a clear image of how things will be wired up.

I put a diode between the timer and ignition wire? The diode will be blocking current from going back to the car/alarm?
Is it something like this or am I totally off?
car ignition harness/wire >------X (alarm connects) X-----X (diode) X---<timer

If I lived closer to GA I would bring you a bottle of southern comfort and ask you to school me!

Relay will go like this:

Pin 85- orange wire from alarm
Pin 86- black/red ignition at key switch
Pins 87 and 87a- either side of the black/yellow fuel pump, cut and tie to the relay

For the diode, you want a 6A one for high current, and wire it in just as above.

[lagvoid21]

Relay will go like this:

Pin 85- orange wire from alarm
Pin 86- black/red ignition at key switch
Pins 87 and 87a- either side of the black/yellow fuel pump, cut and tie to the relay

For the diode, you want a 6A one for high current, and wire it in just as above.

If only I could rep you more. THANKS!

[s14alex]

That alarm has a turbo timer built in. Just press the bottom 2 buttons on the remote before you shut off the car. By default it is set to 1 minute.

[lagvoid21]

That alarm has a turbo timer built in. Just press the bottom 2 buttons on the remote before you shut off the car. By default it is set to 1 minute.

Thats true, but I already have a turbo timer installed. While its very minor, I don't want to have to press both buttons to activate the timer mode. I'm just used to key off and going about my business. This is one feature I wish they had upgraded from the 791xv so that it could function more like a real turbo timer. My only concern now is that the vibration from the engine will set off the shock sensor or something!

[Tenchuu]

knowing this is an old post, but the key wires on a S14 go something like this:

white/Blue stereo power on
white climate control power on

so to have your heater kick on when you auto start the car you need to tap into the white wire at the ignition.

and for the defrost option, none of the wires at the defroster switch will work with the defrost output.

[S13Boosts]

I have a hidden kill switch that kills my fuel pump, but im looking at getting an alarm just so the noise will warn them off, if they set it off.

Although if a thief wants something bad enough he we will prolly get it, regardless. We can only deter them, not stop them.


same here!:x: